That's right, I keep forgetting about how the 80's center diff is what actually locks the shafts together - except for a malfunctioning VC.... Anyway, the reason I asked might be appropriate for some to understand the difference between a modified full time 80 series PT transfer case and an original PT transfer case. I found that out with my '81 Mini when flat towing it behind my camper. I'll flat tow either my 80 or my Mini, depending on which one that I'm planning to use. Anyway, with the 80, I just put the transfer case in neutral and even leave the tranny in park & it tows just fine. Learned that from Cristo Slee after disco-ing both drive shafts a couple of times. Well, hell - that should work for the Mini - or so I thought...until I wore out the front drive shaft and it just self destructed on a trip from Oregon to Arizona. I just assumed that even though with the OEM TC on the Mini, you 1st shift to 4H and then neutral that the shafts would be independant - with it in neutral - being used to my 80. I figured that the front drive shaft wouldn't spin with my hubs unlocked. Wrong! So now, after finally getting another front drive shaft, it gets towed with TC in 2H & the tranny in neutral. Long story to come to a point that if you're flat towing with an original PT transfer case, leave the TC in 2H and if it's a manual tranny, shift it to neutral. If it's an auto tranny, disco rear drive shaft or trailer it. For an original, plain old part time transfer case, even in neutral, the drive shafts are locked together because the TC is still in 4WD. 2WD or 2H must be selected to unlock the drive shafts. Which brings up an important point. If you have shifted it into neutral on a hill and expect to shut off engine and leave it in gear and think it'll hold with out the parking brake, but that also applies to the 80's TC - PT or full time, if you ignore the warning light on the dash.Will still be independent until low range is selected or the center diff switch is pushed into the “on” detent.
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