canadian bum
SILVER Star
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- #41
The hub kit came with spacers to fill the gap when using the long birfs between the snap ring. Now that might not mean that you can run a spacer on a aisin hub as the shaft might be to long.
Part time 4x4 kit install.
- Thread starter canadian bum
- Start date
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I'm not a fan of the spacer method. I like the idea of either getting the correct birfs or having new snap ring grooves machined onto the 4/1994 or later longer birfs.
I'm AxeHead, it's my truck that John worked on (I helped). Here's the difference afterwards to drive:
I changed to a part time kit because 1) reduced wear and tear on my new front end parts and 2) better gas mileage. I figured the gas mileage alone would pay for the whole thing (parts & labour) in 1 year so worth doing. And, I"d be highway driving in the near future (land cruising) which would make this a beneficial change.
Bottom line - awesome mod, pays for itself, makes my truck more serious with my 'serious switches', mileage, drive behaviour, and now (when I want to), I can move to very large wheels.
- Steering is noticable different. The front end no longer has a mind of it's own. It steers much lighter now and more like a 2 wheel drive (which it is without enguaging the hubs). It's a welcome change for pavement driveing.
- It's got an overall lighter feel, more responsive, corners better (I think).
- You can feel the back end torque now.
I changed to a part time kit because 1) reduced wear and tear on my new front end parts and 2) better gas mileage. I figured the gas mileage alone would pay for the whole thing (parts & labour) in 1 year so worth doing. And, I"d be highway driving in the near future (land cruising) which would make this a beneficial change.
Bottom line - awesome mod, pays for itself, makes my truck more serious with my 'serious switches', mileage, drive behaviour, and now (when I want to), I can move to very large wheels.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Today I was messing with my part time actuator .. and a question jump in my mind when you do a part time kit in a full time t-case ( HF2A and HF2AV ) with the part time kit the CDL button came to work as my H4 button .. engaging the front DS .. ?
Page,
Forgive me,was your post a statement or a question? In essence the CSL dash switch does become the 4WD switch provided the hubs are locked.
As a side note there is quick wiring mod for those interested in the ability to lock the lockers (primarily the rear) in 2WD. Locate pin 15 (forgot color) on the locker ECU connector, cut the wire a few inches from the connector, splice in a pigtail with a 6mm ring terminal, connect to the ground stud just aft of the ECU (can't miss it), cap & stow the harness side of the wire. Close everything up and go for a drive, you now have the ability to lock the lockers whenever you want so long as you're going 5 mph or slower.
Forgive me,was your post a statement or a question? In essence the CSL dash switch does become the 4WD switch provided the hubs are locked.
As a side note there is quick wiring mod for those interested in the ability to lock the lockers (primarily the rear) in 2WD. Locate pin 15 (forgot color) on the locker ECU connector, cut the wire a few inches from the connector, splice in a pigtail with a 6mm ring terminal, connect to the ground stud just aft of the ECU (can't miss it), cap & stow the harness side of the wire. Close everything up and go for a drive, you now have the ability to lock the lockers whenever you want so long as you're going 5 mph or slower.
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
yes that what my question .. and thought it's the same actuator that we have in the HF1A t-cases .. this actuator move a gear that move the fork that engage the front DS ..
Does anyone know how t works ..? ( the actuator ) maybe a thread about that .. coz I identify a pin that have 12V and have continuity with the oposite comming from the main harness and all other ( in the 5 pin actuator connector ) seems to be ground ..
What kind of MPG gains are you getting from the part time conversion?
So far I'm seriously disappointed in the machine shops in Denver. No one can do it because they're hardened. Awaiting a call from shop no4 now. I they can cub birfs I'll post up, butin the meantime if anyone in denver has gotten them cut please post where you went
If you cannot find someplace in DEN Ige, I can have them done here in ABQ by my machinist.
I used a .125" carbide tipped cut-off to machine the second groove on my spare birfs without drama.
thanks onur...finally found a place. picked up the first one last friday. don't know why i didn't think of this shop as they've done all the machine work on my pig and my old 40, but that was all years ago.
bromley machine in brighton, by the adams county fairground. i heard the old guy died, but gabe, who was his assistant has kept the machine shop side open.
Nice Ige. Good stuff. I would recommend pushing off the ABS exciter ring and you can sell them on MUD. These are not sourceable separately. You'd have to buy a new birf!
i just may do that. abs hasn't worked since i got the rig and hasn't been missed at all. the only rig i had with abs was an exploder a decade ago and i almost ran into a plow truck because it wouldn't stop and you can't feather the brakes with abs.
You cannot use a spacer method with Aisin hubs due to clearances, you need a second grove.
How did you torque the spool bolts up with the tcase in the truck? Mine wants to keep spinning, keeping me from getting it to spec
AgentOrange
TLCA #28372
Are you shifted into 4WD and front hubs locked?
im full time and in 4wd high, I am on front jack stands, hubs are not installed until the t-case is buttoned up per the marks4wd instructions
maybe I could drop the front wheels and shift the tcase into low
Can someone verify this? That sounds handy, but not sure exactly if this is possible on my US 92’.
Also, did I read somewhere that we leave the center diff locked before disassembly for this conversion? Thanks
