Part time 4x4 kit install. (1 Viewer)

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canadian bum

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Well the splines and drive flanges on a friends 80 series (Axe Head) were shot and new birfs from Toyota were $950 each. So I suggested upgrades such as longs and a part time kit.

Tools needed are
- 14 mm sockets and wrenches
- flat blade screw drivers
- duck bill snap ring pliers
- 12 mm socket
- 3/8 ratchet
- 1/2 ratchet
- 24 mm socket
- good 3/8 torque wrench
- good 1/2 torque wrench
- dead blow hammer
- pry bar
- wire brush

If reusing the bearing in the torque wrench
- bearing splitter
- small shop press

The job itself if fairly strait forward just make sure you have the tools.
 
Here is the difference you are basically taking out a differential in your transfer case with pinion and side gears and installing a spool.
IMG_2019.jpg
IMG_2020.jpg
IMG_2017.jpg
 
I didn't have a picture of the pinion gears and side gear but the input splines for the rear output are now solidly engaged into the new spool.
IMG_2018.jpg
 
You take the new solid spool and bolt it onto the other half of the internal differential housing in the transfer case. Easy to do just torque the bolts according to spec.
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Use a sealant to seal the case and install, make not of the breather tube at the very top of the case, torque all the bolts to spec. In this case I used Loctite 515 as the sealant. Install the snap ring under the cover in the top left of the picture and apply sealant to the cover and install. Make sure the cover is properly orientated.
IMG_2023.jpg
 
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Next use grease to hold the shims that are on the bearings on the picture above in place so that they don't fall out when you install the final output cover. Make sure you align the oil pump with the drive for ease of assembly. Install and torque the bolts.
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Reconnect the electrical connectors removed to remove the case pieces. Reconnect speedo cable and rear driveshaft. Install the skid plate fill the t-case with oil and your ready to go.

Driving. The steering is much lighter now. Even though we don't have the free wheel hubs installed yet there is no power going to the front (waiting on some inner axle seals from Marlin). And now the center diff lock button is a 4x4 high button. I'm sure Axe Head will post up more on the driving but it doesn't pull anymore and drives a lot nicer on the street.
 
Canadian, how much longer/involved is it after you take the rear transfer case extension housing to get to the center differential?
 
You just need to pull the small cover with 5 bolts remove the snap ring. Remove the ring of bolts around the case half and have someone hold the shaft that is under the 5 bolt small cover and remove. It's really not that bad. The biggest pain of the whole thing was getting the speed sensor connector off. It's tucked up on top of the front output shaft.

It's a pretty simple job and the instructions sent with the kit are pretty good. It's really not that complicated of a procedure if you have the tools.
 
Reconnect the electrical connectors removed to remove the case pieces. Reconnect speedo cable and rear driveshaft. Install the skid plate fill the t-case with oil and your ready to go..

If you leave the plug off that locks the Centre Diff when Low Range is selected you are able to select Low range without engageing front drive even if the F/W hubs are locked in.. Great when towing. I use it when reversing up my steep driveway with the Van on..
 
Where was the kit from and how much?
 
Got the kit from Marks 4wd in Australia. Price is as listed on the site plus shipping. Even with the part time kit and the longs it still came to less then 2 stock birfs from Toyota. The longs include new shafts as well.
 
If front hubs are unlocked, then no ABS won't function. If front hubs are locked, the ABS will function.
 
If front hubs are unlocked, then no ABS won't function. If front hubs are locked, the ABS will function.

Hi If I understood correctly you mean an Unlocked Land Cruiser with ABS they will not work.

If your Land Cruiser is Locked, ABS will work. But does this mean even when I am in 4x2 the front ABS will work?

Then I would push the CDL or Go into LOW and all abs will be off?

Sorry for being a noob...

I have a Locked Land Cruiser.
 
If your Land Cruiser is Locked, ABS will work. But does this mean even when I am in 4x2 the front ABS will work? .

let's put it simple .. for ABS you need the birf rotation .. so we are talking about locked hubs ( wheel hubs )

If you haven't birfield rotation .. you won't have working ABS ..
 
With the front axle not spining, will the ABS sensors think the front brakes are locked and try to compensate by activating ABS to the rear wheels?
 
I do know what happens in the absence of the ABS sensor rings. I have non ABS birfs in my ABS 80 with part time case and manual hubs. After I drive for 50 feet or so, the ABS light comes on. My Brakes function normally, albeit without any ABS function.
 

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