Part Time 4WD Conversion Owners

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Welcome to the board Howsie. We need more info from you so that a proper diagnosis can be made.

When you push the CDL button, tell us what is happening. Have a mate push the button in the cab while you go under your vehicle and listen for the center diff lock motor spin. You should be able to hear a humming sound. If you don't hear anything, then I'd start your investigation there.

It could be as simple as improper wiring connections, blown fuse, loose connectors, etc. Tools-R-Us did an extensive thread on how to remove, diagnose and repair the CDL in the 80 series.

Cheers.
 
just checked front diff by jacking front off ground and spinning each tyre for 2mins each, tailshaft doesn't even look like wanting to move, CDL seems to be working fine motor whirrs and seems to move the same amount in both directions.

I did however notice my flange is a little loose so i will tighten this and recheck transfer oil.

Turning driveshaft by hand occasonally results in a grinding noise from transfer as if teeth are catching.
 
Great thread!!! So from reading and I want to do Longfields, I would need, part time kit, 105 hubs, and Longfields?

Thank you,
 
Great thread!!! So from reading and I want to do Longfields, I would need, part time kit, 105 hubs, and Longfields?

Thank you,

I don't believe the 105 hubs will work. Either the asco/aisin longbodies, Warns or AVM
 
The longs are longer than stock 93-up Birfs. I tried every hub I could get and ended up with Warns.

Howsie....are you sure its the tcase and not one or both the hubs sticking? The tcase shift mechanicals are very reliable.
 
You can use the 80 series Aisin hubs with the correct scalloped hub flange for 4/1994 and earlier birfs. After 4/1994 you will need to modify your birf to accept any Aisin manual hub (machine a new snap ring groove 13mm from the top of the 4/1994 birf or later).

Any 30-spline Aisin manual hub will work but will have the incorrect hub flange mating surface (round vs. scalloped). Not a big deal.

80 Series manual hub are available in the US Toyota EPC and can be bought from a Toyota dealer.
 
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When the 1FZE was presented by Toyota in our country in 1993, I was invited with the press and had the pleasure to speak with one of the engineers of the developing team.

The first question I asked him was why we didn´t get the same Full Time version as the USA model and ours got the part time with hubs ?

His answer was blunt: for third world or undeveloped country´s, the part time was better, less complicated to service, more power to the wheels and that I should be happy to have it, period.

It was around 2002 that our top trim 80 series came standard with the full time transmission and all my friends who replaced their older Part Time model with the latest Full Time, hate them, all were dissapointed with the Full Time perfomance and it´s lack of power.

Just purchased my 1st LC and my only complaint is the full-time 4wd. All the 4x4 Toyotas they've made up till this point never had full-time 4wd. Doesn't make sense why the engineers decided to implement that. Maybe if you lived a place where it never needed 2wd. I wish I could get one of the "third world or undeveloped country´s" version", especially with the diesel here in Hawaii.
 
9 out of 10 soccer moms like full time 4wd....at least that's what the Toyota marketing thought at the time!!!!
 
9 out of 10 soccer moms like full time 4wd....at least that's what the Toyota marketing thought at the time!!!!

Gents, great info on the pros/cons of doing PT conversion!

I am pretty sure I am going to convert my 1997 LX450 within the next few months, for smoother drivetrain, less wear, better MPG.

My question is which conversion kit to go with (Slee vs Marks). Looks like the Slee is a couple hundred more, any reason why? Also, how involved is the install? I am fairly handy with 4x4s and had an older chevy blazer that I converted, but sounds like this one is more involved.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

Jason
 
P.S. Here is my new ride...

image.webp
 
Gents, great info on the pros/cons of doing PT conversion!

I am pretty sure I am going to convert my 1997 LX450 within the next few months, for smoother drivetrain, less wear, better MPG.

My question is which conversion kit to go with (Slee vs Marks). Looks like the Slee is a couple hundred more, any reason why? Also, how involved is the install? I am fairly handy with 4x4s and had an older chevy blazer that I converted, but sounds like this one is more involved.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

Jason
Just do it already. Screw the pros/con's, you are talking to the wrong crowd. The process is straight forward and the smiles are priceless.[emoji4]
 
just did this on my stock geared 4" lifted 35 running 80 and have noticed a 1-3 mpg increase, more passing power, less gear hunting on the freeway and no driveline clunk.

This is a major win and will prevent me from buying a double cardan front shaft.
 
just did this on my stock geared 4" lifted 35 running 80 and have noticed a 1-3 mpg increase, more passing power, less gear hunting on the freeway and no driveline clunk.

This is a major win and will prevent me from buying a double cardan front shaft.
I've been going back and forth about doing this eventually...glad to hear the positive review (although I guess my bank account isn't.) Which kit did you go with? You've really noticed more passing power? I'm excited about the less gear hunting the most, I live in a fairly hilly area so that would be incredibly helpful.
 
just did this on my stock geared 4" lifted 35 running 80 and have noticed a 1-3 mpg increase, more passing power, less gear hunting on the freeway and no driveline clunk.

This is a major win and will prevent me from buying a double cardan front shaft.

WOW I purchased the wrong PT kit
 
WOW I purchased the wrong PT kit
lol.... Come on, some of it is slightly true.. The less driveline clunk is 100% on. The rest might be a tad bit optimistic, maybe.... I do feel my p/t 80 a little on the nimble side as far as getting up to speed and maintaining it, but it is hardly noticeable if any.. I also have 4.88s
 
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lol.... Come on, some of it is slightly true.. The less driveline clunk is 100% on. The rest might be a tad bit optimistic, maybe.... I do feel my p/t 80 a little on the nimble side as far as getting up to speed and maintaining it, but it is hardly noticeable if any.. I also have 4.88s

My PT kit did come with the less driveline clunk feature.

Can you PT kit do this:flipoff2:

img_8809-1-jpg.1445444
 
WOW I purchased the wrong PT kit

Can't tell if this is your sarcasm doubting my short experience with the part time kit or not.

Sure there is still some driveline clunk but its not as bad as before, and my mystery pop in the front end has gone away. Before the conversion I was averaging about 11mpg every/anywhere, now in the last three fill ups I've seen 14.2 (mostly highway), 13.5 ad 12.7 (last one was all city). The only way I could get those numbers before would have been to be going down hill everywhere, so IMO its a win.

PT conversion nets wins in the:
  • MPG department
    • 11mpg gets me 275 mi/ tank 10,000 mi with gas @ 2.50 = $2,272
    • 12.7 gets me 42 miles further 10,000 mi @ 2.50/gal = $1,968, $304 savings over 4wd, pays for itself in 11,500 mi
    • 13.5 gets me 62 miles further 10,000 mi @ 2.50/gal = $1,850, $422 savings over 4wd, pays for itself in 8,300 mi
    • 14.2 gets me 80 miles further 10,000 mi @ 2.50/gal = $1,760, $512 savings over 4wd, pays for itself in 6,850 mi
Thats a valuable increase when going cross country​
  • Parts wear department
    • not spinning my birfs, diff and driveshafts saves wear
    • no need to buy an expensive custom DC driveshaft
The conversion cost me about $350 with my 50% off coupon from marlin so if I get only 12.7mpg forever I'll recoup my cost after 11,500mi.
For others who buy the kit at its normal cost with hubs it would take about 17,000 miles to pay for itself if they get only 12.7mpg.

So sarcasm or not its a worthwhile modification one of the only ones that legitimately saves me money.
 
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I've been going back and forth about doing this eventually...glad to hear the positive review (although I guess my bank account isn't.) Which kit did you go with? You've really noticed more passing power? I'm excited about the less gear hunting the most, I live in a fairly hilly area so that would be incredibly helpful.

Marlin Spool Kit
AVM Hubs
and this
IMG_0301_zpsjnv9xtss.jpg


The more power may just all be the ever reliable 'butt dyno' however it does feel like its got a better pick up. I also love the torque over and squat it does on acceleration from a stop, which I'm sure is exaggerated by the 3 link and lack of sway bars.
 
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Can't tell if this is your sarcasm doubting my short experience with the part time kit or not.

Sure there is still some driveline clunk but its not as bad as before, and my mystery pop in the front end has gone away. Before the conversion I was averaging about 11mpg every/anywhere, now in the last three fill ups I've seen 14.2 (mostly highway), 13.5 ad 12.7 (last one was all city). The only way I could get those numbers before would have been to be going down hill everywhere, so IMO its a win.

PT conversion nets wins in the:
  • MPG department
    • 11mpg gets me 275 mi/ tank 10,000 mi with gas @ 2.50 = $2,272
    • 12.7 gets me 42 miles further 10,000 mi @ 2.50/gal = $1,968, $304 savings over 4wd, pays for itself in 11,500 mi
    • 13.5 gets me 62 miles further 10,000 mi @ 2.50/gal = $1,850, $422 savings over 4wd, pays for itself in 8,300 mi
    • 14.2 gets me 80 miles further 10,000 mi @ 2.50/gal = $1,760, $512 savings over 4wd, pays for itself in 6,850 mi
Thats a valuable increase when going cross country​
  • Parts wear department
    • not spinning my birfs, diff and driveshafts saves wear
    • no need to buy an expensive custom DC driveshaft
The conversion cost me about $350 with my 50% off coupon from marlin so if I get only 12.7mpg forever I'll recoup my cost after 11,500mi.
For others who buy the kit at its normal cost with hubs it would take about 17,000 miles to pay for itself if they get only 12.7mpg.

So sarcasm or not its a worthwhile modification one of the only ones that legitimately saves me money.

Sarcasm :meh:

I fully support P/T having logged over 50+k miles using it on both our 80 series and our LX470. I just dont feel I achieved the same glowing results as you. :meh: Dont let my opinion get you worked up its only worth what you paid for it.:grinpimp:
 
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