bloc
SILVER Star
Panhard drop bracket option?
- Thread starter montegofd3s
- Start date
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Nice
Arguably for most people the panhard relo bracket actually makes full compression sagitta worse, as you’re no longer in the middle of the range. But since most of us aren’t using the full range except off-road the bracket makes on road performance better for lifted trucks
bloc
SILVER Star
Exactly. That and the potential for extra load in the cargo area of a LC changing ride height (win here for LX and AHC) means you probably don’t want your panhard rod truly level at normal ride height.. but getting it closer to the stock inclination will definitely help on-road behavior.
This is why I just release a shorty version. You can get 98% of your oem up travel.
Sorry guys I’ve been busy and totally forgot about this thread.
The shorty is an option for guys who know for a fact they will not go up in height later. It’s for guys who are 1.75-3” of lift. To me you don’t actually want it completely straight at ride height on an unloaded weight. You want a slight angle. Maybe visually straight. The only mounting hole for the shorty is the same as the lower mounting hole on the standard height which is 2 1/8 above oem hole. And the very top hole for the standard is 3 1/8” above oem bolt location.
The mounting hole you choose really depends on your setup.
I’ll try to come here more often. But if you need to get a hold of me. Just reach out directly. My email and direct number is on my Instagram bio.
Oh and last. I’m taking off a gold standard height B.O.T.C.K from my LC200. It has damage on it from it smacking the frame. I purposely left it in like this and put about 1500 hard baja miles on it slamming the crap out of it basically using it as a bump stop. My crossmember has some nice dents from. This was done on purpose to prove this is the strongest option on the market period.
I want to give it away for free to some one here. Whoever has the closest birth day to me will be the winner. My bday is Dec 2nd
. I’ll edit this post with some pics of it soon.
The shorty is an option for guys who know for a fact they will not go up in height later. It’s for guys who are 1.75-3” of lift. To me you don’t actually want it completely straight at ride height on an unloaded weight. You want a slight angle. Maybe visually straight. The only mounting hole for the shorty is the same as the lower mounting hole on the standard height which is 2 1/8 above oem hole. And the very top hole for the standard is 3 1/8” above oem bolt location.
The mounting hole you choose really depends on your setup.
I’ll try to come here more often. But if you need to get a hold of me. Just reach out directly. My email and direct number is on my Instagram bio.
Oh and last. I’m taking off a gold standard height B.O.T.C.K from my LC200. It has damage on it from it smacking the frame. I purposely left it in like this and put about 1500 hard baja miles on it slamming the crap out of it basically using it as a bump stop. My crossmember has some nice dents from. This was done on purpose to prove this is the strongest option on the market period.
I want to give it away for free to some one here. Whoever has the closest birth day to me will be the winner. My bday is Dec 2nd
. I’ll edit this post with some pics of it soon.
I guess I must have around 3” of rear lift then, maybe a tad more. I’m using the top hole and my bar is almost-but-not-quite level.
I haven’t noticed any contact on my frame but now I want to double check. I haven’t extended my bump stops but I do run durobump active stops and I now definitely contact them so what regularly, especially with the trailer attached
You most likely won’t hit it. You have to be moving pretty good and both sides compressing. This will happen with the other option on the market as well. I did it on purpose to fully test that it won’t break or break oem mount.
Almost straight is kind of the sweet spot.
The ppl who know me and or end up meeting me and see how I test things
fully understand none of my parts are breaking! I’d like to say I’m a good driver for sure but I’m pretty retarded 
because I do things to my vehicles that I’m for sure not suppose to.
With the trailer hooked up I’ll hit both bumps on a good highway “whoop”, even on the factory bumps. 5k+ of rear axle weight leave a lot more up travel than down travel available
Likely your correct i’m not contacting anything. And if I’m not then I have to imagine very very few others will unless they’re jumping their rigs. I’ll check Friday and report back if I notice any marks
I’d like to say I’m a good driver for sure but I’m pretty retarded
Are You My Brother??
Sorry guys I’ve been busy and totally forgot about this thread.
The shorty is an option for guys who know for a fact they will not go up in height later. It’s for guys who are 1.75-3” of lift. To me you don’t actually want it completely straight at ride height on an unloaded weight. You want a slight angle. Maybe visually straight. The only mounting hole for the shorty is the same as the lower mounting hole on the standard height which is 2 1/8 above oem hole. And the very top hole for the standard is 3 1/8” above oem bolt location.
The mounting hole you choose really depends on your setup.
I’ll try to come here more often. But if you need to get a hold of me. Just reach out directly. My email and direct number is on my Instagram bio.
Oh and last. I’m taking off a gold standard height B.O.T.C.K from my LC200. It has damage on it from it smacking the frame. I purposely left it in like this and put about 1500 hard baja miles on it slamming the crap out of it basically using it as a bump stop. My crossmember has some nice dents from. This was done on purpose to prove this is the strongest option on the market period.
I want to give it away for free to some one here. Whoever has the closest birth day to me will be the winner. My bday is Dec 2nd
Is this the type of BOTCK damage you're talking about? I have not been riding mine hard by any means, this is pretty much entirely from coming out of a parking lot with a big dip and driving at a certain (low) speed and angle, so the rear end sort of bounces itself a bit extra (kind of like a kid bouncing another kid on a trampoline). When that happens, there's a definite hard metal-on-metal hit (jarring both physically and audibly). I think I'll need to trim the top off mine even for daily driving.
Yea that definitely contact. Mine is so bad from jumping the LC
! This is why if you don’t have a really high lift , I have the short version.
Yea that definitely contact. Mine is so bad from jumping the LC
This is why if you don’t have a really high lift , I have the short version.
Got it, thanks for the quick response. I will trim mine down to shorty stature.
For reference, in case anyone else is wondering if their tall BOTCK might make frame contact, I'm running a 2" lift (Bilstein B12 rear springs that claim 1.75" but give 2.0").
No sign of contact for me so far, but I’ll be watching it closer now
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Unless one is running a taller bump stop limiter, this seemingly should be critical to address, whether there is currently contact or not.
It's a liability waiting to happen. Damaging the frame or axle bracket definitely should be avoided. Then there's concerns for a severe and unmanaged bottoming out event resulting in the loss of control. Yes, bump stops are not ideal either, but as least they are an engineered stop.
It's a liability waiting to happen. Damaging the frame or axle bracket definitely should be avoided. Then there's concerns for a severe and unmanaged bottoming out event resulting in the loss of control. Yes, bump stops are not ideal either, but as least they are an engineered stop.
I’m in stock bumps and fully send it. Airborne , whoops , g outs etc. you gotta be moving pretty good. It’s not going to break unless purposely not bolted on properly or say it got loose some how( hard to do when installed properly). The oem mount is not going to break either. That’s one of purposes of how it’s designed. The load is spread out !
This has been a thing in the 4runner gx world. The weld on option is known to direct the load to underside of oem mount ( especially if one didn’t properly weld the back side ) and ends up cracking the oem mount resulting in failure!
This style of bolt on track bar bracket I’ve made In the jeep world and ram world with amazing success! They still sell till this day! This is why I knew I had to make it for Toyota world especially go fast guys!!
I think if you some how break it, you have other things to worry about like why are you in front of pearly gates
I’m in stock bumps and fully send it. Airborne , whoops , g outs etc. you gotta be moving pretty good. It’s not going to break unless purposely not bolted on properly or say it got loose some how( hard to do when installed properly). The oem mount is not going to break either. That’s one of purposes of how it’s designed. The load is spread out !
This has been a thing in the 4runner gx world. The weld on option is known to direct the load to underside of oem mount ( especially if one didn’t properly weld the back side ) and ends up cracking the oem mount resulting in failure!
This style of bolt on track bar bracket I’ve made In the jeep world and ram world with amazing success! They still sell till this day! This is why I knew I had to make it for Toyota world especially go fast guys!!
I think if you some how break it, you have other things to worry about like why are you in front of pearly gates
Yup, we are related
I’m with @TeCKis300 on this. If contacts, that’s bad. Even if it doesn’t break the axle mount or bracket, if there’s a chance of damaging the frame crossmember that’s something to address.
If it’s just that one corner contacting, then personally I’ll probably grind it and paint it just to be sure. I’ll know for sure this weekend whether I’m hitting.
If it’s just that one corner contacting, then personally I’ll probably grind it and paint it just to be sure. I’ll know for sure this weekend whether I’m hitting.
Trust me. I don’t think any of you Guys are going to be sending it to the point where it will dent the crossmember. It takes a lot. For sure little gouge and what not.
Also some ppl have links that have been adjusted to be longer. That could affect it.
Also no one has to buy it. There’s other options.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
I am running the @eimkeith drop bracket and i have contacted the cross member of the frame, and bent the drop bracket a smidge. No witness marks on the driver side just the passemger side with the drop bracket. Hard to tell if there is anything other then a superficial scratch on the frame from where the drop bracket contacted it.
My drkdss bracket arrived a couple days ago and I installed it this morning… coming to this thread to comment on my install and I see @drkdss himself, posted, after my bedtime, some details I wish I had read before completing installation, more on that below.
Install with the 40 gallon LRA is possible but you have to get creative with your jack and attach the track bar loosely first thing or you will not be able to get that bolt in later.
After some trial and error I got everything loosely installed and torqued in the order shown on the install video. Based on post #420 of this thread I did that calculation and was over 3, 4.25 in fact, so I used the top hole. Track bar is now reading level on a bubble level. Based on @drkdss after bedtime post (#425) I may or may not want the track bar level and a post install drive could be confirming this as my steering wheel is now slightly turned right but truck seems to track straight. This could also be completely unrelated due to an ongoing alignment saga which currently has my caster set 3.3 on left and 3.0 right. I know, I like to complicate things
I’m calling a new, much closer, alignment shop in the morning who should be able to take customer input instead of going by the book specs to get caster squared up.
Not sure if this matters or not but measuring center of wheel to fender truck sits at 22.5 on all wheels except right rear where it’s 22. All gas tanks full, drawers full, rear swing out bumpers, 2722 springs, and bags have 5psi.
So, should I be in the lower hole or leave it as is? Once I have gear and my camper attached I’m running way more weight back there and bags will be 50-60psi.
Install with the 40 gallon LRA is possible but you have to get creative with your jack and attach the track bar loosely first thing or you will not be able to get that bolt in later.
After some trial and error I got everything loosely installed and torqued in the order shown on the install video. Based on post #420 of this thread I did that calculation and was over 3, 4.25 in fact, so I used the top hole. Track bar is now reading level on a bubble level. Based on @drkdss after bedtime post (#425) I may or may not want the track bar level and a post install drive could be confirming this as my steering wheel is now slightly turned right but truck seems to track straight. This could also be completely unrelated due to an ongoing alignment saga which currently has my caster set 3.3 on left and 3.0 right. I know, I like to complicate things
I’m calling a new, much closer, alignment shop in the morning who should be able to take customer input instead of going by the book specs to get caster squared up.
Not sure if this matters or not but measuring center of wheel to fender truck sits at 22.5 on all wheels except right rear where it’s 22. All gas tanks full, drawers full, rear swing out bumpers, 2722 springs, and bags have 5psi.
So, should I be in the lower hole or leave it as is? Once I have gear and my camper attached I’m running way more weight back there and bags will be 50-60psi.
