Panhard drop bracket option? (2 Viewers)

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Ha, you have quite the timing with that question. I've gone nearly a year with no problems (other than a few small quirks that are easy enough to fix, but small enough that I haven't taken the time to do anything about them yet). And then yesterday I got my first check engine light. The codes were just saying the vapor flow was incorrect (i.e., related to the charcoal canister). I already know the fix that will work (it's the same fix that will cure most of the small quirks all at once).

I'm just not super motivated, since using these barbed hose fittings means that disconnecting them is destructive to the hoses. I would redo most of the hoses + fittings of I can find non-barb fittings.

Dang! Recommend or not?
I’m scared 😱

Truck needs it so bad though.
How is operation otherwise? Completely discrete?
 
Dang! Recommend or not?
I’m scared 😱

Truck needs it so bad though.
How is operation otherwise? Completely discrete?

I absolutely recommend, but there are still a few things to explore so there's no solid one-size-fits-all recipe yet. If I had a new cruiser tomorrow, I would install the subtank again. But this time, I would allow myself even more time to experiment and redo as much as needed to get rid of all the quirks at the beginning. (I did give myself quite a lot of lead time to get it done last time & experiment with things, but you just keep learning more "I should have" lessons as time goes on.) But relocating the vapor canister certainly is not ideal - I think that will be the make-it or break-it decision for most people. For an LX, it's pretty much required (or do AHC delete), and for an LC it might be possible to keep it in the rear bumper wing as long as the bumper is oem and people opt for something like a 1" body lift or more (that was @Casual Cruiser's idea that recently came up to combine the body lift with it).

To bring this back to the panhard bracket, and still related to the subtank: I was worried that the bracket might interfere with the subtank and all the hoses in that area, but all the clearances have worked out fine. I'm using @drkdss's bolt-on bracket. Easiest install ever.
 
I absolutely recommend, but there are still a few things to explore so there's no solid one-size-fits-all recipe yet. If I had a new cruiser tomorrow, I would install the subtank again. But this time, I would allow myself even more time to experiment and redo as much as needed to get rid of all the quirks at the beginning. (I did give myself quite a lot of lead time to get it done last time & experiment with things, but you just keep learning more "I should have" lessons as time goes on.) But relocating the vapor canister certainly is not ideal - I think that will be the make-it or break-it decision for most people. For an LX, it's pretty much required (or do AHC delete), and for an LC it might be possible to keep it in the rear bumper wing as long as the bumper is oem and people opt for something like a 1" body lift or more (that was @Casual Cruiser's idea that recently came up to combine the body lift with it).

To bring this back to the panhard bracket, and still related to the subtank: I was worried that the bracket might interfere with the subtank and all the hoses in that area, but all the clearances have worked out fine. I'm using @drkdss's bolt-on bracket. Easiest install ever.

Haha ok so if I heard correctly you DO want to hold my hand through the entire process? Lol

Dming you. I want to see the truck at some point. Maybe driving to Austin tomorrow for the eclipse.
 
I absolutely recommend, but there are still a few things to explore so there's no solid one-size-fits-all recipe yet. If I had a new cruiser tomorrow, I would install the subtank again. But this time, I would allow myself even more time to experiment and redo as much as needed to get rid of all the quirks at the beginning. (I did give myself quite a lot of lead time to get it done last time & experiment with things, but you just keep learning more "I should have" lessons as time goes on.) But relocating the vapor canister certainly is not ideal - I think that will be the make-it or break-it decision for most people. For an LX, it's pretty much required (or do AHC delete), and for an LC it might be possible to keep it in the rear bumper wing as long as the bumper is oem and people opt for something like a 1" body lift or more (that was @Casual Cruiser's idea that recently came up to combine the body lift with it).

To bring this back to the panhard bracket, and still related to the subtank: I was worried that the bracket might interfere with the subtank and all the hoses in that area, but all the clearances have worked out fine. I'm using @drkdss's bolt-on bracket. Easiest install ever.

Definitely some lessons learned with the LRA and I think it's reasonably well developed at this point. Critical things I would do
  1. Get rid of the low flow breather orifice that creates fuel pump fill sensitivity.
  2. Body lift! To make more clearance between the LRA and charcoal canister. I'm not sure I would recommend relocating it as that might bring more issues than it solves. As it is, with careful install even without a body lift, the clearance is workable.
  3. Make sure all wiring is well protected with wiring loom to avoid potential chafing damage, particularly the plug to the charcoal canister
  4. High loop the charcoal canister breather to avoid water ingest into the charcoal breather VSV
  5. Enjoy freedom from the pump!
 
What I'm looking to address is in hard braking, when the rear lifts, there is enough rear steer that I'll have to correct steering a touch to the right. That little correction is not brought up much, but I'm sure you all experience it too.

This was a major motivator for doing the install. The behavior, IMO, makes the vehicle somewhat unsafe if it can't keep itself straight while emergency braking.
 
Good Thread!

But... At what amount of lift is this beneficial? I am planning on 1.75-2" lift in rear.

Yay or Nay?

Thanks
 
Good Thread!

But... At what amount of lift is this beneficial? I am planning on 1.75-2" lift in rear.

Yay or Nay?

Thanks

Yes, definitely beneficial. I have 2" lift.
 
Good Thread!

But... At what amount of lift is this beneficial? I am planning on 1.75-2" lift in rear.

Yay or Nay?

Thanks

Yes, it's there even in my 1" rear lift and having the benefit of anti-dive in AHC. I would say anything over 1.5" could definitely benefit from this.

I'm hoping that I don't over-correct the panhard for 1" that it introduces other symtoms as it looks like the minimum position on the PCK bracket compensates for more like 1.5". Guess I'll find out.
 
Yes, it's there even in my 1" rear lift and having the benefit of anti-dive in AHC. I would say anything over 1.5" could definitely benefit from this.

I'm hoping that I don't over-correct the panhard for 1" that it introduces other symtoms as it looks like the minimum position on the PCK bracket compensates for more like 1.5". Guess I'll find out.

Good info! Thank you!
 
Yes, it's there even in my 1" rear lift and having the benefit of anti-dive in AHC. I would say anything over 1.5" could definitely benefit from this.

I'm hoping that I don't over-correct the panhard for 1" that it introduces other symtoms as it looks like the minimum position on the PCK bracket compensates for more like 1.5". Guess I'll find out.
If it does, I guess you need to add some coil spring spacers so you get another 0.5" of lift ;)
 
After lifting my LX and slapping on some bigger tires, I've been battling with a harsh rear end wobble on those high-speed highway bumps. Reading through this thread, it seems like the DRKDSS brackets might be the fix I'm looking for if I'm understanding correctly. Attached is a picture of my panhard setup for reference. Any thoughts?
1000014040.jpg
 
Mine got delivered today. Looks like the weather will be good on Monday, so will try to do the install then.
 
After lifting my LX and slapping on some bigger tires, I've been battling with a harsh rear end wobble on those high-speed highway bumps. Reading through this thread, it seems like the DRKDSS brackets might be the fix I'm looking for if I'm understanding correctly. Attached is a picture of my panhard setup for reference. Any thoughts? View attachment 3599569

Yup. The bracket will bring your panhard bar closer to level. Your photo shows exactly the problem that the bracket fixes.
 
Yup. The bracket will bring your panhard bar closer to level. Your photo shows exactly the problem that the bracket fixes.
Perfect, Guess I'll go ahead and order one, also any idea on regular vs shorty version for my LX ?
 
Perfect, Guess I'll go ahead and order one, also any idea on regular vs shorty version for my LX ?

I'm not sure what's different about the shorty version, it wasn't an option when I bought mine. The website doesn't seem to say, either. @drkdss can you elaborate on the difference?

@propernorf how much of a lift do you have?
 
I'm not sure what's different about the shorty version, it wasn't an option when I bought mine. The website doesn't seem to say, either. @drkdss can you elaborate on the difference?

@propernorf how much of a lift do you have?
I found an explanation under one of the other kits on the site. Talks about the the difference in height between the upper bolt on the driver side and the lower bolt on the passenger side.
 
I'm not sure what's different about the shorty version, it wasn't an option when I bought mine. The website doesn't seem to say, either. @drkdss can you elaborate on the difference?

@propernorf how much of a lift do you have?

Around 2 ~ 2.5 I'd say

I found an explanation under one of the other kits on the site. Talks about the the difference in height between the upper bolt on the driver side and the lower bolt on the passenger side.

Thanks, although l'm still struggling to understand how it applies to my specific setup.
 
After lifting my LX and slapping on some bigger tires, I've been battling with a harsh rear end wobble on those high-speed highway bumps. Reading through this thread, it seems like the DRKDSS brackets might be the fix I'm looking for if I'm understanding correctly. Attached is a picture of my panhard setup for reference. Any thoughts?
Totally forgotten that I'd installed the kit last year. No longer have the skyhook rear end side hop, so promptly forgot all about it. It's worth the time, effort, and $.
 
Around 2 ~ 2.5 I'd say



Thanks, although l'm still struggling to understand how it applies to my specific setup.
Basically the more level the panhard is the smaller the difference will be. This is from their website:

"
SHORTY OPTION:

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU WANT/need A SHORTY. On a flat surface Measure from the ground up to the center of the bolt on the frame side. Then do the same thing on the axle side. Subtract the two measurements and if that number is 2.75”( even as high as 3”) or below i am recommending the shorty other wise you get the standard height version and end up running the bottom hole which means you have extra metal on top top. "
 

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