I am some what associated with them. We basically work together. They use my kdss parts. And we share a lot of info. I’m currently developing an end link for them to allow the tundra stuff to bolt to the kdss sway bar.
Panhard drop bracket option?
- Thread starter montegofd3s
- Start date
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I’ve been on the fence about ordering one - this is simple enough to push me off. I’ll definitely take one when these are ready.
I stumbled across your website last week, and wondered if you’d be doing any 200-series dev.
Send it!!!
BadReligion
SILVER Star
Just curious how a bolt on bracket is stronger than a weld on bracket?
BadReligion
SILVER Star
Nevermind. The more I look at the pic, it looks like there are 3 bolts that secure the bracket. Only potential issue will be rust. But looks like a good solution for those that don't want to weld on their truck and want something 95% reversible. Looks like a few holes will have to be drilled.
No holes have to be drilled at all. Its the strongest because they’re basically 3 parts to the bolt on bracket ( for the 4r/ gx/ sequoia / tundra) A main from bracket , back bracket and an internal wing nut/ plate system that gets inserted into the oem bracket. All 1/4” steel. When it’s all tied together and torque down properly there’s no way to break this. You are breaking the whole oem mount off before this bracket falls apart. And at that point you are prob at heavens gates
. I just haven’t decided if I’m going to utilize the threaded holes on the bottom of oem mount vs inserting a wing nut into that side hole! It’s the strongest option because it spreads the load all the way around and inside the oem mount. It’s not just welded across the top of an oem mount. And on top of that you can weld the bolt on version if you want ( small tack welds here and there. But trust me. I don’t thread lightly. All my testing is done over baja. These brackets have been proven over 12-13 years from the jeep world to the ram2500 world. I’m applying the same principles to these Toyota brackets. The versions for the 4r / gx have been beat down to its fullest extent. You would have to find me on social media to understand what I put these through. I don’t want o break any rules so I’m not going to share my social media or website. But it’s honestly not hard to find.
afgman786
SILVER Star
A grinder and paint makes a welder he ain'tI followed your guidance and did the same. I should have removed the spring, it would have given me better access, but I'm happy with how it turned out. Not nearly as nice welding as yours and others, but grinder, flap disk and rustoleum and nobody's the wiser.
That brake line is awfully close and the coating got more than a little warm at one point.
And yes, I know I could have done a better job, but it is what it is. Hopefully it won't rip off. My welding is decades out of top form and doing it at 2AM didn't do me any favors.
View attachment 3291461
jkeithw
Supporting Vendor
I'm back from my mountain trip now; will ship out in the morning. Thanks for the order!
I'm into one of your brackets assuming they would correct for 2-3" lift in the rear..... found your website..... I'm into the bolt on version so I can solve in my garage and I don't need to find a guy I can trust to weld the other option on properly.No holes have to be drilled at all. Its the strongest because they’re basically 3 parts to the bolt on bracket ( for the 4r/ gx/ sequoia / tundra) A main from bracket , back bracket and an internal wing nut/ plate system that gets inserted into the oem bracket. All 1/4” steel. When it’s all tied together and torque down properly there’s no way to break this. You are breaking the whole oem mount off before this bracket falls apart. And at that point you are prob at heavens gates
It’s the strongest option because it spreads the load all the way around and inside the oem mount. It’s not just welded across the top of an oem mount. And on top of that you can weld the bolt on version if you want ( small tack welds here and there. But trust me. I don’t thread lightly. All my testing is done over baja. These brackets have been proven over 12-13 years from the jeep world to the ram2500 world. I’m applying the same principles to these Toyota brackets. The versions for the 4r / gx have been beat down to its fullest extent. You would have to find me on social media to understand what I put these through. I don’t want o break any rules so I’m not going to share my social media or website. But it’s honestly not hard to find.
I have a bolt on for my KZN130 and love it. As soon as a bolt-in appears for the 100 I will take one - I think many would. For exactly the same reasons as directly above!
jkeithw
Supporting Vendor
- actually, hold on; you had a bolt-on panhard lift bracket on your KZN130?? I've only ever seen drop brackets.
I would 100% buy and install a bolt-on option, given I can’t weld. Especially if I don’t have to fight to get that stupid passengers side spring out again to install it…
Sign up on the namesake website. Im first though LOL
Ok guys. I need some measurements. I forget to take them at stock ride height.
On a flat surface , can some of you guys get me a measurement from the ground up to center of bolt of the driver side trac bar( pan hard) bolt . And then same thing passenger side ground up to center of trac bar bolt. Make sure you are leveled and on level ground. I need to know the difference. This will help out so much as I need to confirm the angle when it’s stock. I know it’s not straight like how the 4r and gx comes so I’m trying to maintain that same angle for 2-3 “ lifts. Other wise ppl who use the stock trac bar will have the axle sticking out on the passenger side if I make it complete leveled. I think eventually I’ll make a fully leveled one for 2-3+ inch lifts but one would have to run a slight shorter adjustable trac bar ( which I’ll make ) !
I’m gearing up to get the lc200/ LX bolt on trac bar correction kit started. I should have a nice working prototype with in the next two weeks for me to go beat on. The science and all that have been proven already through the other platforms I have made these for in the past ( jeeps , ram2500s , super duties , gen4/5 and gx470/460 but I still like to test before it goes into production.
On a flat surface , can some of you guys get me a measurement from the ground up to center of bolt of the driver side trac bar( pan hard) bolt . And then same thing passenger side ground up to center of trac bar bolt. Make sure you are leveled and on level ground. I need to know the difference. This will help out so much as I need to confirm the angle when it’s stock. I know it’s not straight like how the 4r and gx comes so I’m trying to maintain that same angle for 2-3 “ lifts. Other wise ppl who use the stock trac bar will have the axle sticking out on the passenger side if I make it complete leveled. I think eventually I’ll make a fully leveled one for 2-3+ inch lifts but one would have to run a slight shorter adjustable trac bar ( which I’ll make ) !
I’m gearing up to get the lc200/ LX bolt on trac bar correction kit started. I should have a nice working prototype with in the next two weeks for me to go beat on. The science and all that have been proven already through the other platforms I have made these for in the past ( jeeps , ram2500s , super duties , gen4/5 and gx470/460 but I still like to test before it goes into production.
This is me some what guessing what the oem difference is based on my 2” lift coil from dobs.
Ok so the top hole is designed for 3” lift. The hole under that is for 2” lifts. I have a 2“ lift in the rear but I’m using the top hole. Let me explain ….. If you are going to do that you need to some what shorten your trac bar ( about an 1/8”) other wise it will want to stick out to passenger side. So the guys running an oem trac bar that is non adjustable must technically run the bottom hole if you have a 2”. If you have 3” lift you run the top hole. It’s very minimum. But that’s how the geometry works on the LC. From the factory ( there’s an angle ) the axle is centered but there’s a difference of about 2” from driver to passenger ( driver side being higher ). If I made the bolt on trac bar kit where you have it completely straight for say 2” and 3” of lift. Most ppl are running an oem trac bar which is not adjustable. So that would have the axle sticking out about 1/4” on passenger side. I hope this makes sense.
Ask me some questions and I’ll answer as best I can.
I have about 1200 miles ( hard use/ daily driving / long distance ) to go before I finalize and get into production. I’ll have that done this coming week. I know it all works but I usually set a certain amount of miles to data log as well gain more knowledge of other things that can pop up.
We are almost there. Find me on the gram. Give me a follow. Find my site. Subscribe to my email newsletter( bottom of any page on the site ).
I can tell you the biggest difference for me is under hard braking. I had this sensation of the rear end wanting to come out under me from the driver side. The bar has so much angle just with the 2” coils from Dobs. I can imagine it worse on the 3+ inch lifts.
Ask me some questions and I’ll answer as best I can.
I have about 1200 miles ( hard use/ daily driving / long distance ) to go before I finalize and get into production. I’ll have that done this coming week. I know it all works but I usually set a certain amount of miles to data log as well gain more knowledge of other things that can pop up.
We are almost there. Find me on the gram. Give me a follow. Find my site. Subscribe to my email newsletter( bottom of any page on the site ).
I can tell you the biggest difference for me is under hard braking. I had this sensation of the rear end wanting to come out under me from the driver side. The bar has so much angle just with the 2” coils from Dobs. I can imagine it worse on the 3+ inch lifts.
I’m lifted just over 3”, so I would be ok with a stock bar in the top hole?
Edit. Yes you will be fine. You will prob be right on point with just being over 3” and the top hole. No need to adjust trac bar.
I’m Saying if I made the bracket to be completely straight ( say for 3” lift or my 2” lift ( using bottom hole ) … and you run the oem trac bar. It would be sticking out a little on passenger side. And only way to fix that is with an adjustable trac bar that will allow it to become shorter by about 1/8” !
I hope that makes sense. So in my case in the previous post where I’m showing that I’m using the top hole ( which is made for 3” lift with oem / non adjustable trac bar) , I have to adjust my trac bar to be shorter so that the axle can be centered. If I didn’t have the ability to adjust shorter , then I’d run the bottom hole for my 2” lift.
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