Painted the 55 this Easter

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Nice

Robert LaDuke said:
How 'bout almost Nebula and almost cygnus?

What colors are those? Are they the original colors from the 60's? I had a hard time confirming that my '71 was nebula green and cygnus white because none of the color guides showed that combo available that year, but everywhere i sanded I found green and white.

Ryan.
 
Here you go! This is my daughters truck!
rear.webp
front.webp
side.webp
 
scottryana said:
What colors are those? Are they the original colors from the 60's? I had a hard time confirming that my '71 was nebula green and cygnus white because none of the color guides showed that combo available that year, but everywhere i sanded I found green and white.

Ryan.

Ryan, Your truck looks great and i love the colors you chose. I've only seen the Nebula green in old advertising photos . When I was researching colors for my truck , I wasn't aware that toyota had a green that I liked so i just picked a color that I thought looked good. Turns out it's not too far from Nebula. Mine's an old Jag color called " willow green" . For the white I had the paintshop match the color on an old Sunbeam Mixer from the 1940's. It's an off white with a little beige thrown in and a touch of green.
 
scottryana said:
What year is that 55? It has a strange combo of vents and lights? I though that te round lights were early '69 and that the rear vents were later '74 or '76?
Ryan, you're right. His FJ55 is a '76. But those round lights are generic truckstop replacements.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Ryan, you're right. His FJ55 is a '76. But those round lights are generic truckstop replacements.

That is correct! We had a hard time to find the correct FJ55 lights. Lots for the '40 series but none with the right bases for '55's. We have them now though but no point in keeping the pig off the road until we had the right lights. Oh, Jim, that's her truck, as in my daughters!
 
Wheels

Cruiserhead05 said:
Scott,
I saw the 55 today at the shop. It looks amazing. the Stazworks wheels are sweet.


I have very mixed feelings about the wheels. They could be a great product, but I have the early versions, before John Staz did any of the refinement. The wheels hold air now, after unmounting and remounting several times. I finally had to use silicon to seal them up. A big help would be better instructions for assembly. Since I bought my wheels, Stazworks has made some changes that make them much better. They now machine the safty bead of the rim shell so you don't have to fight it during disassembly. If I were to do it again. I would just save my money and wait for the Hutchinson-Rockmonster wheels. That way you get aluminum, studs instead of bolts, better sealing surfaces, and more engineering. Rockmonster has spent the time to measure inserts for each wheel/tire combo, while with Stazworks it is just a guess.

I am not saying that Stazworks is a bad company, in fact John has gone out of his way to try and make these wheels work. I just think that sometimes the homegrown products are limited, by cost and engineering.

Ryan.
 
scottryana said:
Yeah, I really wanted to tie them into the frame, but I had Ironpig cut the quarter panels to get rid of some rust. Since Ironpig is 60mi away I didn't double check the cut line before they did it. The quarter panel ended up not being cut in the right spot to make the bumper tie in look good. So I had them make a rocker like I did up front. I agree that welding the 2"x material to the body isn't optimal, and would love to tie it into the frame, but then you are solid mounting the frame and the body. I don't know if this is a bad idea, but it seems to me like it would be. I would love to hear from you guys on if you think making the body and frame one unit is a good/bad. The more opinions the better. This is my first project and I am positive almost everyone on this board has more experience then I do.

Ryan.


Ryan, I tied mine to the frame via weld and have since learned of a couple options to bolt them so I think I will change that around in the future. My quarters are cut high due to rust.....Here's a pic, it's just 2x2 going to the rear boat anchor (I mean bumper) that is PA reg. 29.5" from the ground:crybaby: and then to the frame. My rockers are to the body (we'll see how that goes, not alot of contact thus far, I did rebuild each underbody support to the new rocker).

DSCN07190002.sized.jpg


my 55 is also rattle canned and you could call the Lowe's "antique blue" some shade of mossy green so it should qualify:flipoff2:

Andre, where are those pic's? I only see red XXXXXXX":flipoff2:
 
R,
That looks great. Two thumbs up for the ease of touch up down the road. Given the burp and splatters I get out of my gun I'd say you could got a cleaner shot with a rattle can than I did with my gun. Did you have any problems with runs or did it lay pretty tacky (texture I mean)?

Nice work.
 
3jvj said:
R,
That looks great. Two thumbs up for the ease of touch up down the road. Given the burp and splatters I get out of my gun I'd say you could got a cleaner shot with a rattle can than I did with my gun. Did you have any problems with runs or did it lay pretty tacky (texture I mean)?

Nice work.

I had no problems with runs. I put on around 5-6 coats and didn't have any runs. I think that since the tip on the cans sprays a | instead of an O like most spray cans it was much easier to keep the paint right where I wanted it.

Ryan.
 

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