Overland Power (10 Viewers)

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Looks nice. Hopefully the MsRP is just the launching point for a normally discounted price. $1/watt is a big ask in the current market. Also sounds like it’s only slightly smaller than a Delta 2 Max with 1/3rd less capacity. Of course unfair to compare pricing on a box that’s been on the market for a few years vs something not released yet.
Yeah, I think on price you'd have to compare the combination of battery, bi-directional inverter, BMS, connectors/ports available, etc. I've never assembled a 'whole system,' so I'm not the right person to make the comparison...but I think the Enphase box includes a bunch of things people typically assemble/connect. Also LFP.
 
Got the Ecoflow Alternator charger this week as well packaged with a Delta 2 Max kit on black friday through a Costco deal. Delta 2 Max + Delta 2 Max extra battery and Alternator Charger all for 1499. I mostly got the Delta 2 Max for home backup (to make use of the 30% tax credit). I should have picked up a $375 Delta 2 as well for the truck, but I definitely have already blown the budget for tools and toys this season.

Mostly posting here because i haven't seen it mentioned yet. Victron has a new DC to DC box called the XS. It's 12 | 12 @ 50amps and is 98% efficient. Youtubers have showed that it runs considerably cooler than previous DC to DC chargers and it has all the cool Victron things than any of their smart devices have. If you want high amp charging and are connecting to a battery rather than a "solar generator", this is probably the new go-to top of the line device. Looks like it's about $330.

Victron XS
I tried to get one of these in March this year to charge my trailer under tow but they weren't available. I went with a REDARC BCDC 1250D instead.
 
Yeah, I think on price you'd have to compare the combination of battery, bi-directional inverter, BMS, connectors/ports available, etc. I've never assembled a 'whole system,' so I'm not the right person to make the comparison...but I think the Enphase box includes a bunch of things people typically assemble/connect. Also LFP.
No, I agree. I think for 99% of people the "solar generators" are a better option than dual battery or DIY lithium battery/inverter systems. DIY only makes sense if you are going really big, that's when the savings start kicking in.

But i think currently your cheap semi off-brand boxes are in the .30-.50/wh and deep discounted sale Ecoflows in that same range and then even your higher end stuff is in the .50-.75/wh range. So, coming into the market way late at $1/wh is a bold move. Looks like their big selling point is a lot of UL certifications and just flexing the name brand. Certainly, no features not covered by just about everyone else.
 
No, I agree. I think for 99% of people the "solar generators" are a better option than dual battery or DIY lithium battery/inverter systems. DIY only makes sense if you are going really big, that's when the savings start kicking in.

But i think currently your cheap semi off-brand boxes are in the .30-.50/wh and deep discounted sale Ecoflows in that same range and then even your higher end stuff is in the .50-.75/wh range. So, coming into the market way late at $1/wh is a bold move. Looks like their big selling point is a lot of UL certifications and just flexing the name brand. Certainly, no features not covered by just about everyone else.
Marketing Department: remains unbeaten.
 
This is getting pretty off topic, but in doing more research on the Alternator charger (now that I have one). There is another pretty cool benefit of one. It allows you to add cheaper lithium batteries to your Ecoflow system giving you better access to the secondary storage. You've always been able to do this through the MPPT, but pretty limited on throughput from the Ecoflow to the external battery and unidirectional. But with the Alternator charging and its reverse charging capabilities, you could put your cheap battery bank on the other side of this and get 800w throughput both ways. And works automagically with 12v or 24v.
 
This is getting pretty off topic, but in doing more research on the Alternator charger (now that I have one). There is another pretty cool benefit of one. It allows you to add cheaper lithium batteries to your Ecoflow system giving you better access to the secondary storage. You've always been able to do this through the MPPT, but pretty limited on throughput from the Ecoflow to the external battery and unidirectional. But with the Alternator charging and its reverse charging capabilities, you could put your cheap battery bank on the other side of this and get 800w throughput both ways. And works automagically with 12v or 24v.
I think I understand what you're saying here but if you put your cheap Li "on the other side" or what I'd call between the Li and the Ecoflow, how would you use the alternator charger to charge either one? Would you add a battery disconnect which to allow switching between the starter battery under the hood and the Li "expansion" battery? At that point, aren't you building a DIY dual battery system?

I started thinking today about how I might add more capacity when I looked at the power requirements for my son's CPAP machine which is 68w when using heat and humidification. The Ecoflow extra battery would be the easiest thing but its big and expensive. It's currently cheaper to buy a second Delta 2.
 
I think I understand what you're saying here but if you put your cheap Li "on the other side" or what I'd call between the Li and the Ecoflow, how would you use the alternator charger to charge either one? Would you add a battery disconnect which to allow switching between the starter battery under the hood and the Li "expansion" battery? At that point, aren't you building a DIY dual battery system?

I started thinking today about how I might add more capacity when I looked at the power requirements for my son's CPAP machine which is 68w when using heat and humidification. The Ecoflow extra battery would be the easiest thing but its big and expensive. It's currently cheaper to buy a second Delta 2.
Sorry, I should Have been more clear. Using the Alt charger the way I described before we be not using the vehicle at all. And using solar or AC to charge the Max and then the subtended battery through the Alt charger. You could technically use the truck to charge the Max through the solar input. The max has dual solar inputs so you can get more power input through just the 12v than most devices would take.
 
Got the Ecoflow Alternator charger this week as well packaged with a Delta 2 Max kit on black friday through a Costco deal. Delta 2 Max + Delta 2 Max extra battery and Alternator Charger all for 1499. I mostly got the Delta 2 Max for home backup (to make use of the 30% tax credit). I should have picked up a $375 Delta 2 as well for the truck, but I definitely have already blown the budget for tools and toys this season.

Mostly posting here because i haven't seen it mentioned yet. Victron has a new DC to DC box called the XS. It's 12 | 12 @ 50amps and is 98% efficient. Youtubers have showed that it runs considerably cooler than previous DC to DC chargers and it has all the cool Victron things than any of their smart devices have. If you want high amp charging and are connecting to a battery rather than a "solar generator", this is probably the new go-to top of the line device. Looks like it's about $330.

Victron XS
FWIW - I replaced my Victron 12/12 30A with the new Victron XS 12/12 50A DC charger. It's much smaller and runs much cooler. My LiTime 100ah lithium recommends a 20A charge. Charges quick.

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To the OP, I'm sure you have gone down a different path but thought others may want to know about the Victron XS charger. My solar needs are already covered by a Redarc BCDC and Victron MPPT chargers.
 
I have recently been looking at all-in-one power packs. Here is summary of what is currently available:

Anker, Jackery, Enphase only come with DC 12 Volt/10 Amp cigarette charging.
Goal Zero, EcoPro, and Bluetti all have alternator/battery charger systems.

For lack of a better description, these alternator/battery charger systems "emulate" a solar input. I use that description because the input connection often uses the solar connection. One can also roll their own using a Victron Orion 12/24-10 or Orion 12/24-20 high power converters. Note one does NOT want to use the Smart Tr versions. While they work, they will drop the voltage from the max setting.

Using the Victron system typically does not provide as much power as the mfg systems. That is because the Victron max voltage is limited to 30 volts whereas the mfg systems the max voltage is higher. For instance, for the Bluetti the max. voltage is 56 volts. Both will draw a max of 10 amps. So 300 watts for the Victron and 560 watts for the Bluetti. The EcoFlow can output even more.

When using the Victron system one needs to have either an ignition on switch and/or battery protect. These are needed as the converters have no "smarts" as such can drain the main battery.

Hope that helps folks. I looked at rolling my own battery system (with solar) and decided that the economics were not there. Further the space requirements was more than I wanted.
 
I have recently been looking at all-in-one power packs. Here is summary of what is currently available:

Anker, Jackery, Enphase only come with DC 12 Volt/10 Amp cigarette charging.
Goal Zero, EcoPro, and Bluetti all have alternator/battery charger systems.

For lack of a better description, these alternator/battery charger systems "emulate" a solar input. I use that description because the input connection often uses the solar connection. One can also roll their own using a Victron Orion 12/24-10 or Orion 12/24-20 high power converters. Note one does NOT want to use the Smart Tr versions. While they work, they will drop the voltage from the max setting.

Using the Victron system typically does not provide as much power as the mfg systems. That is because the Victron max voltage is limited to 30 volts whereas the mfg systems the max voltage is higher. For instance, for the Bluetti the max. voltage is 56 volts. Both will draw a max of 10 amps. So 300 watts for the Victron and 560 watts for the Bluetti. The EcoFlow can output even more.

When using the Victron system one needs to have either an ignition on switch and/or battery protect. These are needed as the converters have no "smarts" as such can drain the main battery.

Hope that helps folks. I looked at rolling my own battery system (with solar) and decided that the economics were not there. Further the space requirements was more than I wanted.
A Victron Smart charger has worked fine for me. It's worked fine for a couple of years. But you have to set it up a certain way.

I have a Goal Zero Yeti 1500X and a Victron Orion TR Smart 12-24|15 DC charger running in power supply mode connected to the 1500X's charging input. I use the Victron and not the alternator charger sold by Goal Zero because the alternator charger, while affording up to 600W of charging, was not available at the time I got the 1500X.
Some quick facts:
  • As you mention, the charging input, at least on Yeti (and some others) is its solar input. All Goal Zero chargers including their AC wall chargers plug into that input.
  • Run the Smart Tr in power supply mode.
    • You are emulating a solar panel, not charging a battery.
    • The Goal Zero MPPT controller behind its solar input (to which the Victron is connected) thinks it's connected to a solar array. The fact it really isn't doesn't matter. The MPPT controller just reacts to voltage/power changes.
      • I *think* what is happening is that as the MPPT controller tries to alter the voltage to get more current it doesn't get it and it leaves things alone until the next sweep.
  • I get a solid 360-380W of charging from the Victron if I use a cooling fan; otherwise the Victron de-rates to stay cool.
    • I built a DIY portable charger that's ugly but works really well.:)
  • The voltage does drop to approx. 19V at max output of 380W however this is above the threshold of 14V for the Yeti 1500X to charge.
    • The draw current on the Victron at max output is 40A/12v at its input.
  • Victron Smart Tr Orion have voltage input thresholds that tell the Orion to stop charging at a given voltage and what voltage to restart charging.
    • You do not need any engine sensing or wiring beyond this; I have my unit shutting off within seconds of turning off the engine.
 
For lack of a better description, these alternator/battery charger systems "emulate" a solar input. I use that description because the input connection often uses the solar connection.

The Ecoflow alternator charger doesn't use the MPPT input on the Ecoflow Delta line. There is a dedicated DC input specifically for this device and subtended batteries. The Delta 2 has one of these inputs and the Delta 2 Max has 2. I'm not sure about the 1st generation Delta/Delta Max. Also, a bonus feature of this is that they can be run simultaneously. Therefore, you can have the alternator charger running as well as plug a solar panel in to the MPPT (or I suppose another DC to DC charger) and get even faster charging. Obviously, this probably isn't smart unless you have a heavy duty alternator. The Delta 2 has 1 500w MPPT input and the Delta 2 Max has 2 500w MPPT inputs.
 
The Ecoflow alternator charger doesn't use the MPPT input on the Ecoflow Delta line. There is a dedicated DC input specifically for this device and subtended batteries. The Delta 2 has one of these inputs and the Delta 2 Max has 2. I'm not sure about the 1st generation Delta/Delta Max. Also, a bonus feature of this is that they can be run simultaneously. Therefore, you can have the alternator charger running as well as plug a solar panel in to the MPPT (or I suppose another DC to DC charger) and get even faster charging. Obviously, this probably isn't smart unless you have a heavy duty alternator. The Delta 2 has 1 500w MPPT input and the Delta 2 Max has 2 500w MPPT inputs.
Yeah the power banks are all a little different. I like the Ecoflow a lot. I think it’s better than the Goal Zero in some regards and would probably get an Ecoflow if I were starting now. But the Goal Zero was the first one on the block (I think) so no regrets.

I do have a 390A alternator about which I have written extensively. I could literally throw 150A/12V at the ecoflow.

BTW, it's an ecoflow battery mgt. system that's on Kimberly and A-liner trailers (maybe others) that enable charging the trailers from the tow vehicle with a specifically labeled input "Alternator".
 
Thanks. If I build my own, I won’t go under hood with the second battery. I have thought about the goal zero type setup and am still considering that. The self contained systems I've seen only seem to charge with cigarette plug charger for in vehicular charging. They have solar and wall outlet charging but I'd want something faster when I'm driving. I would think you could set up a DC/DC charger to accomplish that. @clrussell, when you ran your jackery 300 off the factor inverter, what kind of charging time did you achieve?
Another vote for portable battery instead of built in. I can run my 95L Dometic for 3-4 days and my 55L for 5-6 days (without recharging) off my EcoFlo max (2kwh), charges just fine of the OEM 110 plug in my LX and I have a 160w fold out solar panel that charges it ~50% in a day. I also have a 2kwh lionEnergy with 800w of solar my daughter uses for her guide/catering business, it has ridged panels that take up way more space so we don’t use that one much for camping.
 
Another vote for portable battery instead of built in. I can run my 95L Dometic for 3-4 days and my 55L for 5-6 days (without recharging) off my EcoFlo max (2kwh), charges just fine of the OEM 110 plug in my LX and I have a 160w fold out solar panel that charges it ~50% in a day. I also have a 2kwh lionEnergy with 800w of solar my daughter uses for her guide/catering business, it has ridged panels that take up way more space so we don’t use that one much for camping.
What is this "instead" word of which you speak? :)
Do both!!!
  • the 2nd battery is always there, can be charged with solar and I can jump start with it which is something I can't do with my Yeti 1500X.
  • The Goal Zero is portable and can stay in the truck, go with me into a tent, the woods (e.g. to run tools to build a tree stand) etc...
  • Both can power my Dometic 75L.
:cool:
 
Some of my own opinions having been a long time user of solar generators, DIY lithium house batts, and seeing many other setups in use regularly.

  1. Depends on individual use case, but more often than not, high charge rates are simply not necessary. 100W can work great, 200W should just about satisfy 98% of the use cases out there.
  2. Solar generators / all-in-one units are awesome. So much value, capability, flexibility, and at todays prices, no brainers.
    1. I'd recommend looking for LiFePO4 chemistry especially for those in hot climates. These chemistries also last longer. Minor tradeoff of slightly more weight/size against lithium ion chemistries
    2. If looking to support a diesel heater, pay attention to the max 12V port amp draw. It takes closer to 12-14 amps for light-off/startup draw and many of these batts won't do more than 10A. Some have larger capacity 12V ports or the ability to gang ports.
    3. Pay attention to the orientation of the ports and where you intend to locate the battery in the vehicle. You'll have to protect the face where things get plugged in and off-road, things get banged around.
    4. Anderson ports are the bees knees for secure connections off-road and extra points for units that include these. Cig lighter plugs tend to shake loose.
    5. Foldable solar panels are great for stationary days.
  3. DIY batteries can be done cheaper and with a smaller footprint. It's not necessarily true it's only worthwhile for larger systems. I've setup small and large systems. I did a 100Ah for $550 back in 2022 with the goal of saving space over a portable solar generator unit. Could probably do one for $350 today.
 
I’m finally getting around to installing the alternator charger for the EcoFlow. I found an access point by the driver side backseat I intend to just run through that hole and then follow along the frame and open into the engine bay up the wheel wheel. The only issue I see is getting The rear door sale trim back in place. I will have to notch it or something. Anyone else see any reason I shouldn’t do this?

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I’ll be able to tuck the cable, that has a pretty stout casing over it, a high above the frame and a pie into the wheel wheel up to where my air compressor is and then ultimately connected to the battery. I don’t think the cable will be in any risk of getting abrade.
 
If you have space for a generator and a solar generator this OUPES option might be a consideration. I also have Honda EU2000's but was intrigued by this unit that would automatically start and stop to charge.

The generator auto fires off to charge the OUPES Mega models at 20% charge and stops charging at 85-90% depending on the model.

It is a DC only generator that provides about 1600W of charging power. ---> 56VDC / 28.5 Amps

You could supplement charging with panels off the Anderson port as well

[Solar Generators]

[E1600] (there was a sale on eBay a few weeks back and got for around $350

Owner's manual

Example firing up below 20%


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••Side note.. OUPES does have a model.. Mega 2 that has as 12V - 30AMP Anderson connection if one needs for diesel heater
 
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I’m finally getting around to installing the alternator charger for the EcoFlow. I found an access point by the driver side backseat I intend to just run through that hole and then follow along the frame and open into the engine bay up the wheel wheel. The only issue I see is getting The rear door sale trim back in place. I will have to notch it or something. Anyone else see any reason I shouldn’t do this?




I’ll be able to tuck the cable, that has a pretty stout casing over it, a high above the frame and a pie into the wheel wheel up to where my air compressor is and then ultimately connected to the battery. I don’t think the cable will be in any risk of getting abrade.
I ran mine from behind the right-hand 2nd row, under the door sill trims all the way up to the front, under the glove box, and into the engine bay from there.... It was a huge pain in the ass but it worked. The LC is built so much better than any other car I've wired LOL not much room under trim pieces.
 
So I just made my first multi hour drive with the alternator charger running. Had it set at 200 watts. It performed as expected. The only issue was I couldn’t keep the Bluetooth connect to the EcoFlow devices. Kept going in and out. Mostly out. I think I’ll try running them on WiFi with my phone at the hot spot.

Another thing I’m wondering about. I think I can leave the alternator charger on when parked with the engine off and it will stop drawing power when the starter battery hits the voltage I set as the start voltage. I’ve set it at 13v. That seems to work but it gives me an error:

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Seems weird to get an error when it is doing what I want and it should. Maybe the intent of the error is if I had set it at say 15v, then it would never charge. I just don’t want it to drain my starter battery over night.
 
Ive been installing dual bat systems for 20 years, and think my write up is still a sticky somewhere in the 80 series section.

I've done it all from K.I.S.S. to my Camper setup with 800ah server rack LifePo4s that can self sustain almost indefinitely

I've always crapped on the obscenely overpriced and under capacity "Solar Generators" (such a dumb and misleading term)

But i'll be honest, in the last 2 years, these things have my leaps and bounds in the tech, capacity and price and my opinion has changed.

After a lot of hemming and hawwing and going back and forth 50x or so, i decide to build out the 200 around a power station versus a dual battery system.

The pros outweigh the cons for sure now, by a lot. A few years ago, not even close... But now, they most definitely do.

I chose the Bluetti AC180 and their proprietary "car charger" which is just a DCDC charger with barrel connector to plug right into power station and charge while i drive.

Total Cost: $949 ($699 power station $249 car charger)
Total Capacity: 100ah of Lifepo4
Install time: Less than an hour

Testing last weekend is impressive, and everything works as it should

Can remove power station from vehicle and use in house when our lovely power company here in SoCal decides to do one of their rolling black outs

Soooo.... From an old school, "dual batteries are life" guy, i am now a convert, it just makes more sense all around
 

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