Overland Power (1 Viewer)

[linuxgod]

Ditto @Boston Mangler. The “solar generators” are a tested battery option, have A/C and D/C output options, and typically allow for a few different input options (alternator, solar, A/C, etc. And you can get the “refurbished” ones from ecoflow and bluetti cheap. I built my own LFP battery in my trailer from cells and a BMS and while it was a cost effective option at the time for 270Ah, I wouldn’t do it again unless I was building a full on solar setup for an off grid cabin needing a LOT more power

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Can the new(er) generations "solar generators" jump start ?
I have a Goal Zero 1500X and it can't. So I've relied on my 2nd battery for that I'm embarrassed to say a few times. I know I could carry around a jump pack but there's room under the hood for a 2nd battery so I went that route then got the Goal Zero 1500X for portability and an inverter for AC.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Can the new(er) generations "solar generators" jump start ?
I have a Goal Zero 1500X and it can't. So I've relied on my 2nd battery for that I'm embarrassed to say a few times. I know I could carry around a jump pack but there's room under the hood for a 2nd battery so I went that route then got the Goal Zero 1500X for portability and an inverter for AC.

No idea honestly.

I keep jump packs in all of my vehicles out of habit

 

[kcjaz]

Can the new(er) generations "solar generators" jump start ?
I have a Goal Zero 1500X and it can't. So I've relied on my 2nd battery for that I'm embarrassed to say a few times. I know I could carry around a jump pack but there's room under the hood for a 2nd battery so I went that route then got the Goal Zero 1500X for portability and an inverter for AC.

I'm not sure about a jump start but the EcoFlow alternator charge allows "reverse charging" meaning you can charge the start battery from the EcoFlow. I've not tried it. Not sure I see the need as I carry a Noco anyway. Might be useful of I had camp light wired to my start battery and used the EcoFlow to keep the start battery charged if I was running lights w/o the engine running at camp.

 

[kcjaz]

So I just made my first multi hour drive with the alternator charger running. Had it set at 200 watts. It performed as expected. The only issue was I couldn’t keep the Bluetooth connect to the EcoFlow devices. Kept going in and out. Mostly out. I think I’ll try running them on WiFi with my phone at the hot spot.

Another thing I’m wondering about. I think I can leave the alternator charger on when parked with the engine off and it will stop drawing power when the starter battery hits the voltage I set as the start voltage. I’ve set it at 13v. That seems to work but it gives me an error:

View attachment 3884685

Seems weird to get an error when it is doing what I want and it should. Maybe the intent of the error is if I had set it at say 15v, then it would never charge. I just don’t want it to drain my starter battery over night.

As a follow up, I left the fridge and Ecoflow and alt charger running over night. All fine this morning. Still showed undervoltage error but I think its just doing what it is supposed to.

Also, the Bluetooth worked this morning too. However I didn't connect my Tesla Head unit to my phone hotspot. When I got to work, I did connect the wifi and it all seemed to work. I think that maybe, when I have everything all connected, it just might be too much for the phone or software. I have my phone working as a wifi hot spot, connected to the HU and also connected to the HU via Bluetooth plus the 3 EcoFlow devices.

All this tech seems really cool and convenient, and it is, when it all works. When it is glitchy, its super frustrating.

 

[lx200inAR]

As a follow up, I left the fridge and Ecoflow and alt charger running over night. All fine this morning. Still showed undervoltage error but I think its just doing what it is supposed to.

Also, the Bluetooth worked this morning too. However I didn't connect my Tesla Head unit to my phone hotspot. When I got to work, I did connect the wifi and it all seemed to work. I think that maybe, when I have everything all connected, it just might be too much for the phone or software. I have my phone working as a wifi hot spot, connected to the HU and also connected to the HU via Bluetooth plus the 3 EcoFlow devices.

All this tech seems really cool and convenient, and it is, when it all works. When it is glitchy, its super frustrating.

Watched a few videos on this and it does appear that's just the state it sits in when the vehicle voltage is below your "Start Voltage" setting. Seems like that could be cleaner, could instead be a message that says "Vehicle not running" or something. But seems to be just cosmetic.

 

[kcjaz]

I will get a full test of my EcoFlow system next week at Cruise Moab. While, I have tested it and camped over a weekend with it. 3 days/3 nights overlanding to Moab via Kokopelli and then camping in Moab w/o power will real test run. Not going to lie, makes me a bit nervous as I am not bringing a backup cooler.

The other thing that makes me nervous about my setup, and specifically the alt charger, is the load it puts on my alternator. While its supposed to be capable of 800W I don't really want that kind of load on my alternator especially while I'm going 10 mph or slower. My plan is to see how much battery capacity I've used over night and estimate the charge watts based on how much drive time I'll have the next day. So if I'm down to 30% on the EcoFlow and will drive for 5 hours, I'll set the charge to 1024 x .7 / 5 = 143 watts plus I'll add another 100w because that is about what it takes to keep the fridge running, so 243 w total from the charger. Really, I suspect I'm OK by just setting it at 300 or 400 and calling it good. If I was going down the interstate at 75 mph, I'd be less worried about the alternator. Maybe if I knew I had an hour at highway speed, I would crank it up to 800w.

BTW, I currently have my spare alternator in my spare parts kit.... Trying to convince myself to leave it in the garage.

 

[bloc]

I wish I could run one of these things but just can’t give up the interior space.

 

[Boston Mangler]

While it’s supposed to be capable of 800W I don't really want that kind of load on my alternator especially while I'm going 10 mph or slower.

Agree 100%

I’m using the Bluetti Variant and via the app have it set to charge a limit of 20amps to limit alternator stress

 

[kcjaz]

Agree 100%

I’m using the Bluetti Variant and via the app have it set to charge a limit of 20amps to limit alternator stress

Ecoflow doesn't have an amp setting but my 250w above would be about 19 amps at 13.2V so I'm in the same zip code. I wish I had a total alternator amp meter to see what my total amp draw was in real time. I guess I could check that at idle with a clamp on. I think the rated amps is something like 150 or maybe 180. Need to look that up.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

The only way to be sure about your power is to measure it.

I'm not sure about a jump start but the EcoFlow alternator charge allows "reverse charging" meaning you can charge the start battery from the EcoFlow. I've not tried it. Not sure I see the need as I carry a Noco anyway. Might be useful of I had camp light wired to my start battery and used the EcoFlow to keep the start battery charged if I was running lights w/o the engine running at camp.

That's a great feature.
I went to the website and read how you can set the power in watts to the Ecoflow from the starter battery.
Question: is that power output to the Ecoflow or power draw from the battery?
Perhaps they're the same?
The only way to really tell is to measure it with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF393ZH?th=1

I found that devices like DC chargers usually advertise their power output and not their power draw.
For example, I use a Victron Orion Tr Smart 12|24-15 to charge my Goal Zero 1500X.
It outputs 360-380 watts at 24V. That's a solid 15A.
However, the input and the load on the battery/alternator is another story.
If it were 100% efficient it wold be drawing 360-380W at 13V or 28A.
But it doesn't. It draws a measured 40A, 529W at 13V at input.
So what happened?
It's inefficient as heck and gets very hot.

Don't fry your alternator!
Be careful out there!

 

[lx200inAR]

The only way to be sure about your power is to measure it.

That's a great feature.
I went to the website and read how you can set the power in watts to the Ecoflow from the starter battery.
Question: is that power output to the Ecoflow or power draw from the battery?
Perhaps they're the same?
The only way to really tell is to measure it with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF393ZH?th=1

I found that devices like DC chargers usually advertise their power output and not their power draw.
For example, I use a Victron Orion Tr Smart 12|24-15 to charge my Goal Zero 1500X.
It outputs 360-380 watts at 24V. That's a solid 15A.
However, the input and the load on the battery/alternator is another story.
If it were 100% efficient it wold be drawing 360-380W at 13V or 28A.
But it doesn't. It draws a measured 40A, 529W at 13V at input.
So what happened?
It's inefficient as heck and gets very hot.

Don't fry your alternator!
Be careful out there!

I read one thread on reddit that said that if the alternator side battery (vehicle battery) is too discharged that the alternator charger will not "wake up" and he was not able to turn on the reverse or maintenance charging. Might be worth testing is that was really a plan to use it in that fashion. I'd probably just carry around a jump pack still. I wonder if you could temporarily juice the car battery with the 12v output of the Ecoflow enough to get the reverse charging from the alternator charger to start working.

Keep in mind, that's reddit, so it could have totally been user error or something else.

 

[linuxgod]

I will get a full test of my EcoFlow system next week at Cruise Moab. While, I have tested it and camped over a weekend with it. 3 days/3 nights overlanding to Moab via Kokopelli and then camping in Moab w/o power will real test run. Not going to lie, makes me a bit nervous as I am not bringing a backup cooler.

The other thing that makes me nervous about my setup, and specifically the alt charger, is the load it puts on my alternator. While its supposed to be capable of 800W I don't really want that kind of load on my alternator especially while I'm going 10 mph or slower. My plan is to see how much battery capacity I've used over night and estimate the charge watts based on how much drive time I'll have the next day. So if I'm down to 30% on the EcoFlow and will drive for 5 hours, I'll set the charge to 1024 x .7 / 5 = 143 watts plus I'll add another 100w because that is about what it takes to keep the fridge running, so 243 w total from the charger. Really, I suspect I'm OK by just setting it at 300 or 400 and calling it good. If I was going down the interstate at 75 mph, I'd be less worried about the alternator. Maybe if I knew I had an hour at highway speed, I would crank it up to 800w.

BTW, I currently have my spare alternator in my spare parts kit.... Trying to convince myself to leave it in the garage.

I was charging my bluetti at 200W (24v @ 8.5A). It would recharge after a night of running the fridge in 2 or maybe 3 hours. You don’t really need 500W+ charging most of the time.

My 12-24 DC converter fried and was putting out 8V so i switched back to 12V on my last trip. That was really too slow for normal camping and driving to hiking trails but leaving the truck off all day. So 200-250W is probably fine especially if you’re overlanding and driving a lot.

I do have a 100W solar panel too but I’ve yet to mount it on my roof rack. Won’t help when parked in the garage but on a camping trip where we’re parked at a site it should be enough in the sun to maintain the setup for several days.

 

[kcjaz]

I was charging my bluetti at 200W (24v @ 8.5A). It would recharge after a night of running the fridge in 2 or maybe 3 hours. You don’t really need 500W+ charging most of the time.

My 12-24 DC converter fried and was putting out 8V so i switched back to 12V on my last trip. That was really too slow for normal camping and driving to hiking trails but leaving the truck off all day. So 200-250W is probably fine especially if you’re overlanding and driving a lot.

I do have a 100W solar panel too but I’ve yet to mount it on my roof rack. Won’t help when parked in the garage but on a camping trip where we’re parked at a site it should be enough in the sun to maintain the setup for several days.

I ran the fridge all night and it was at about 71%. I set the charger at 300w (so about 21 amps) and drove to work which is about 20 minutes. Lest it running all day, drove home, ran an errand and met a friend for a beer. Maybe another 30 to 40 minutes of driving. I’m at 82% now. I’m going to run the set up all week while I’m in town to see how it behaves. So far, I’m encouraged.

 

[Acrad]

Does the Ecoflow DC-to-DC support cutover or simultaneous charging from solar like the Etaker models?

ETaker F2000 The World's First 2000W Full-Scenario DC to DC MPPT Batte

ETAKER

www.etakerpower.com

Fast Charger Fleet 1000 Compatible with M2000 Portable Power Station

【Supports Fast Charging of Car Battery and Solar Energy up to 1000W】During car travel, ETAKER F1000 car fast charger directly connects to the car battery to charge the M2000 generator. Additionally, F1000 supports rooftop solar charging, allowing for combined rapid charging of 1KW using driving...

www.etakerpower.com

F1000 Pro Smart Charger for Power Stations & Batteries | 1000W Dual-In

ETAKER

www.etakerpower.com

 

[lx200inAR]

Does the Ecoflow DC-to-DC support cutover or simultaneous charging from solar like the Etaker models?

ETaker F2000 The World's First 2000W Full-Scenario DC to DC MPPT Batte

ETAKER

www.etakerpower.com

Fast Charger Fleet 1000 Compatible with M2000 Portable Power Station

【Supports Fast Charging of Car Battery and Solar Energy up to 1000W】During car travel, ETAKER F1000 car fast charger directly connects to the car battery to charge the M2000 generator. Additionally, F1000 supports rooftop solar charging, allowing for combined rapid charging of 1KW using driving...

www.etakerpower.com

F1000 Pro Smart Charger for Power Stations & Batteries | 1000W Dual-In

ETAKER

www.etakerpower.com

Yes, the Delta models can be charged by Solar simultaneously along with the inverter charger. They are different inputs on the Ecoflows and both work at the same time.

 

[TheIcemanCometh]

Does the Ecoflow DC-to-DC support cutover or simultaneous charging from solar like the Etaker models?

As noted above for the EcoFlow it has specific ports for each. The Etaker has a single port so their DC-DC has the second port for the solar.

However, it is possible with any of these. That is one is simply combining DC inputs. Whether it be solar/AC->DC or solar/alternator. That is if building a system from the base components solar/alternator/AC->DC all get combined on a single bus that then feeds the battery as well as the DC loads.

FWIW, I had not heard of Etaker before @Acrad's post. I learned they have been around since 2019. The market is getting quite crowded with such companies. Competition is good but I am not sure they will all be around long term.

 

[jjtrou2072]

Agree 100%

I’m using the Bluetti Variant and via the app have it set to charge a limit of 20amps to limit alternator stress

Curious what Bluetti variant you are using, I have an older AC200P I would like to charge off of the alternator.

 

[TeCKis300]

From multiple rigs, 200W charge is all you really need and that will usually have you well ahead of the game. Higher draw is just higher stress on components unnecessarily.

Caveat is running a dual or single zone with freezer set to 0°F in summertime heat. The freezer won't likely get there and will run continuously. Better to shoot for around 20°F. Yes, ice cream won't be frozen as hard, but it also will be more judicious use of the battery.

Solution for non-driving days is to put out a portable 100W solar panel.

Wish you all perpetual power and more chilled drinks.

 

[kcjaz]

FWIW )maybe not much), in the EcoFlow alternator charger FAQ is this question and answer:

Will this product damage the alternator, starter battery, or affect the overall lifespan of the vehicle?​

No, the 800W alternator charger's charging logic does not rigidly apply 800 watts. Instead, it depends on the power surplus of the car's alternator. It ensures the alternator is not overloaded, allowing up to a maximum of 800 watts without harming the car's battery.

That sounds great but I don't see a way for the charger's logic to know what the specific car's alternator capacity is at the operating RPM other than when it tries to draw watts/amps and senses the voltage drop when the alternators' capacity limit is hit. Not sure I see how that would be different if all it did was demand 800w. 800 w is about 60 amps. At 800 rpm idle, I doubt there is 60 amps available and the alternator will be doing all it can. Maybe the logic senses this and drops its demand to zero rather than constantly trying to pull amps that are not there. It would be really cool of you could really just set it at max 800w and it was "smart" enough not F your alternator. Honestly, I gotta believe that the majority of people who put these in the car or RV don't think about this and default to more is better, so maybe EcoFlow has engineering some level of protection into the device. On the other hand, if it was totally smart and automatically protected your alternator, why would they let you control the charging rate in the app? Why would you ever set it at 200w if it really did that by itself.

When I drive around with the charger set at 300w, the app shows I am charging at 300w regardless of rpm. I haven't tried it at 800w setting. When I shut the ignition off, it continues to draw 300w for a short time and then you can watch the watts drop until it hits the low voltage setting (I set mine at 13v) and then it goes to zero. Maybe at idle, an extra 20 amps is no big deal. I'll try setting it at 800w for the drive home today and see what it does