Overland Power

[kcjaz]

Overland Power. Anyone worked with this company before? They appear to offer complete aux battery, charging and BMS packages. I'm trying to figure out and plan my dual battery system concurrent with my drawer system and desire to add a fridge and camp lighting. There are just a thousand ways to do this and I'm no electrical wiz (I'm pretty much the opposite of that). I can DIY install things but I want a system that is really put together/designed by someone who knows what they are doing. Having a company like this put a DIY package together for me seems appealing.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

On the main page I see this big marketing photo:

A few take-aways...

1. Adhesive-lined shrink wrap and wire sleeves are a nice touch - I always like to see that.
2. Exposed, positive terminal is not a nice touch. In any frontal collision, the hood will almost certainly fold, contact the terminal, cause a short & fire. That terminal needs a terminal cover on it. Probably an innocent oversight in the photo.
3. I see "Off Grid Engineering" on the battery hold-down. This was a company that previously sold borderline identical kits (I had one for my own Tacoma). The kits were nice, but I heard through the grapevine that the company shut down in some shady form. This might be the same owner re-booting under a different name.

Having had a dual battery system before, my advise would be this: go through the expense and hassle only if you plan to be on the road (and thus constantly charging and discharging your house battery) for 2+ weeks at a time, on a fairly frequent basis. If you "overland" less frequently, or for shorter periods of time, a portable, standalone lithium battery (GoalZero, Jackery, or DIY) will be a more practical choice to power your fridge and/or other accessories.

 

[linuxgod]

If you have the interior space, just get a GoalZero or similar. Easier and more reliable than trying to build your own setup, and lithium isn’t great under the hood anyway

Edit: my refurbished 768wh Bluetti was $300 on eBay. It lacks Bluetooth monitoring which I dislike but otherwise it’s fine and powers my fridge for 2 days. It has DC and 120V output and can accept either vehicle 12V cigarette lighter type input, up to 28V solar, or their 120V proprietary charger as input.

 

[clrussell]

If I ever get around to doing a “house battery” in my 200 it will be super simple.

100ah lithium
Bcdc controller or the likes
Roughly 200w of solar on the roof
And dedicated hookup to my fridge
Lithium under a side wing of the drawer.
Little switch pack for usb and a couple light controls

That will run anything I need for as long as I need to.

I ran 10 days using my jackery 300 plugged into my factory inverter plug powering my fridge. We drive multiple hours a day anyway. I sat up
Solar one afternoon as we got to camp early on a hot day and hadn’t planned to leave for 16 hours.

The self contained units work extremely well. And have multiple uses.

 

[kcjaz]

If you have the interior space, just get a GoalZero or similar. Easier and more reliable than trying to build your own setup, and lithium isn’t great under the hood anyway

Edit: my refurbished 768wh Bluetti was $300 on eBay. It lacks Bluetooth monitoring which I dislike but otherwise it’s fine and powers my fridge for 2 days. It has DC and 120V output and can accept either vehicle 12V cigarette lighter type input, up to 28V solar, or their 120V proprietary charger as input.

Thanks. If I build my own, I won’t go under hood with the second battery. I have thought about the goal zero type setup and am still considering that. The self contained systems I've seen only seem to charge with cigarette plug charger for in vehicular charging. They have solar and wall outlet charging but I'd want something faster when I'm driving. I would think you could set up a DC/DC charger to accomplish that. @clrussell, when you ran your jackery 300 off the factor inverter, what kind of charging time did you achieve?

 

[clrussell]

Thanks. If I build my own, I won’t go under hood with the second battery. I have thought about the goal zero type setup and am still considering that. The self contained systems I've seen only seem to charge with cigarette plug charger for in vehicular charging. They have solar and wall outlet charging but I'd want something faster when I'm driving. I would think you could set up a DC/DC charger to accomplish that. @clrussell, when you ran your jackery 300 off the factor inverter, what kind of charging time did you achieve?

With my fridge running it would never really drop below 50% during the night, I never really watched actual charge time. I would say a couple hours to top back off and maintain. 45qt rough country fridge. Lg compressor.

Some of the self contained have Anderson charging plugs I think. It would allow more power to charge them.

 

[kcjaz]

I've been googling and reading specs on the various portable power station type batteries and the charging times seem pretty long on all of them for using the cigarette lighter type charger from the vehicle. Using the built in inverter would seem to be much better. Like I said above, using a DC/DC charger connected to the solar input seems like a good way get much faster charging from the running vehicle. Found this on YouTube:



Edit: Better vids on this topic:

Power Station For Your Car? You Need This!

How to properly DC fast charge your power station from your car alternator, using a DC converter.Links to all items mentioned (affiliate links):EcoFlow Delta...

www.youtube.com

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks. If I build my own, I won’t go under hood with the second battery. I have thought about the goal zero type setup and am still considering that. The self contained systems I've seen only seem to charge with cigarette plug charger for in vehicular charging. They have solar and wall outlet charging but I'd want something faster when I'm driving. I would think you could set up a DC/DC charger to accomplish that. @clrussell, when you ran your jackery 300 off the factor inverter, what kind of charging time did you achieve?

The bluetti does 8.5A @ 12V or 24V, so 200W/hr charging @ 24V means it’ll fully charge in 4 hours. The input is a DC7909 barrel plug. I can send you pics of my setup but basically it’s just a switched outlet that can do 12V x 20A and I use a 12-24 converter I got off Amazon to boost to 24V.

GoalZero uses an Anderson powerpole
Plug which is ideal.

 

[TomEf]

I used a 100Ah LiFePo4 battery in a battery box that has some outlets built into it. I set up a solar panel on the roof rack (215W if I remember right) and ran it to an MPPT with the intent to also hook up a lead from the start battery/alternator. I have all the wiring and accessories to hook that up, but on solar I don't think I've seen the battery dip below 85%. After about a year like this, I'm not sure I'll bother wiring it up at all.

The one thing I'd do differently (and still could change I guess) is to switch out the battery in the box for a smaller form factor that could go under the drawer wing. Might mean buying cells and configuring them myself plus a BMS, then adding some sort of outlet panel.

 

[TeCKis300]

I agree with many here that a portable unit is a great way to do it. Preferably LiFePO4 based. Lithium's are great too but have some shortcomings with heat tolerance and shorter life. I've already worn through a Goal Zero 1000 after 6 years.

This thread might be relevant for a simple 100Ah installed solution. Probably doable ~$500 at today's prices.

2022 KISS Dual Battery

No surprise but batteries have taken an giant leap in technology, availability, and cost. I've been playing with all too many battery systems between work, my travel trailer, home, and EVs. Time to bring the LX overlanding setup into 2022. I'm a big proponent of KISS. Working in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Taco Supremo]

I'm running a kisae dmt1250 dc/dc charger that allows alternator charging and solar mppt in one unit, and a 100ah battery. Works great and is tucked away to save space. A simple Pecron from Amazon would work similar but slower alt charging through the 12v aux plug. I've found that solar wasn't needed as we're traveling enough to charge the battery very quickly. Budget friendly LiTime 100AH LiFePO4 battery. Bluetooth. Awesome BMS. Will Prowse reviewed it on his youtube channel.
Will's DIY solar forum is awesome for knowledge on how to wire etc. Very similar to this forum but they're all electricity nerds not 'Yota fanboys like us in here.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

The bluetti does 8.5A @ 12V or 24V, so 200W/hr charging @ 24V means it’ll fully charge in 4 hours. The input is a DC7909 barrel plug. I can send you pics of my setup but basically it’s just a switched outlet that can do 12V x 20A and I use a 12-24 converter I got off Amazon to boost to 24V.

GoalZero uses an Anderson powerpole
Plug which is ideal.

As a Goal Zero fan boy I thought I'd amplify your post a bit:

Goal Zero also has the YetiLink Vehicle Integration Kit which can charge at 600W straight DC right off your alternator.
It is an add-on module at the top of the unit and it does not use the 8mm or Anderson PP-45 connectors.
It's the fastest charging battery via direct DC AFAIK.

Goal Zero did not have this available when I purchased my Goal Zero 1500X so I use a Victron 12|24-15 (in power supply mode) connected to my starter battery to charge it using the PP-45 at the rate of 360-380W.

REF:
Yeti Link Vehicle Integration Kit - https://goalzero.com/products/yeti-link-vehicle-integration-kit

 

[prharper]

I'm running a kisae dmt1250 dc/dc charger that allows alternator charging and solar mppt in one unit, and a 100ah battery. Works great and is tucked away to save space. A simple Pecron from Amazon would work similar but slower alt charging through the 12v aux plug. I've found that solar wasn't needed as we're traveling enough to charge the battery very quickly. Budget friendly LiTime 100AH LiFePO4 battery. Bluetooth. Awesome BMS. Will Prowse reviewed it on his youtube channel.
Will's DIY solar forum is awesome for knowledge on how to wire etc. Very similar to this forum but they're all electricity nerds not 'Yota fanboys like us in here.

I watched a few of Will's reviews and went with the LiTime 100AH LiFePO4 battery with BMS and bluetooth. You can get below $300 now. Placed it under a drawer wing and tied down. Already had power run from starter battery to rear. Added a Victron DC-DC charger 30A. Charges 300W to the LiFePO4 battery.
Nice thing about LiFePO4 is you can discharge it much lower than other battery chemistries, especially AGM. I can monitor the battery, Victron charger and National Luna fridge using Bluetooth and phone. This solution works great for me. If needed, I can connect my Victron MPPT with solar panels for charging if stationary at camp for a few days.

FWIW - I originally put in a dual battery in engine bay - AGM with Redarc BCDC, SBC around 4-5 years ago. LiFePO4 batteries were still pricey. Just replaced the Odyssey AGM (with the same AGM) which served me well over the years. I still use it for accessories and it's wired to Switch Pro. The setup has been trouble free for me. I typically run the fridge off this if I'm not stationary at camp for a few days. I can also easily switch Anderson connections from LiFePO4 battery to AGM aux. for flexibility.

Back to OP, I would go with a simple LiFePO4 battery setup in the interior cabin. Less expensive, less complexity and longer run times.

As a Goal Zero fan boy I thought I'd amplify your post a bit:

Goal Zero also has the YetiLink Vehicle Integration Kit which can charge at 600W straight DC right off your alternator.
It is an add-on module at the top of the unit and it does not use the 8mm or Anderson PP-45 connectors.
It's the fastest charging battery via direct DC AFAIK.

Goal Zero did not have this available when I purchased my Goal Zero 1500X so I use a Victron 12|24-15 (in power supply mode) connected to my starter battery to charge it using the PP-45 at the rate of 360-380W.

REF:
Yeti Link Vehicle Integration Kit - https://goalzero.com/products/yeti-link-vehicle-integration-kit

I also have this setup, @FrazzledHunter turned me on to the Victron 12|24 charging trick to the GZ 1500x. The Yeti Vehicle Integration Kit has some poor reviews on the initial release and I had already invested in the Victron DC charger.

The one thing I left out of my previous dual battery system was an inverter. That's where the GZ Yeti comes in handy when I need an inverter. I've run a Nespresso machine and small microwave off it, no problems. It's also handy to leave in tent to charge/run personal devices.

When you plan your power cable runs, consider adding an extra run or two and don't be shy on going with thicker gauge pure copper.

 

[linuxgod]

As a Goal Zero fan boy I thought I'd amplify your post a bit:

Goal Zero also has the YetiLink Vehicle Integration Kit which can charge at 600W straight DC right off your alternator.
It is an add-on module at the top of the unit and it does not use the 8mm or Anderson PP-45 connectors.
It's the fastest charging battery via direct DC AFAIK.

Goal Zero did not have this available when I purchased my Goal Zero 1500X so I use a Victron 12|24-15 (in power supply mode) connected to my starter battery to charge it using the PP-45 at the rate of 360-380W.

REF:
Yeti Link Vehicle Integration Kit - https://goalzero.com/products/yeti-link-vehicle-integration-kit

Heh I'm not the GoalZero fanboy, you're thinking of @TeCKis300 I do really like their connector options, but they're not LFP which turned me off.

I have a Bluetti but it's just ok. Ecoflow are better but the DC connectivity options (input and output) kind of sucked. I wanted something besides cigarette lighter plugs and ended up with the Bluetti because it had a DC7909 barrel connector for vehicle input and smaller ~5.5mm barrel connectors for the DC output side.

I built my own LFP in my trailer from cells from China and a BMS 4 years ago, and I use a Victron MPPT controller to charge it. Having done that, I'd be hard pressed to repeat the process now though... when I did it 100Ah LFP was $1000 so building a ~270Ah LFP for $650 was a bargain, but you can get 200Ah batteries for ~$450 now. And with all the Jackery/Ecoflow/etc options out there providing the battery, DC output, AC inverter, BMS, and bluetooth access I don't think there's much savings in doing it yourself.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Heh I'm not the GoalZero fanboy, you're thinking of @TeCKis300 I do really like their connector options, but they're not LFP which turned me off.

I have a Bluetti but it's just ok. Ecoflow are better but the DC connectivity options (input and output) kind of sucked. I wanted something besides cigarette lighter plugs and ended up with the Bluetti because it had a DC7909 barrel connector for vehicle input and smaller ~5.5mm barrel connectors for the DC output side.

I built my own LFP in my trailer from cells from China and a BMS 4 years ago, and I use a Victron MPPT controller to charge it. Having done that, I'd be hard pressed to repeat the process now though... when I did it 100Ah LFP was $1000 so building a ~270Ah LFP for $650 was a bargain, but you can get 200Ah batteries for ~$450 now. And with all the Jackery/Ecoflow/etc options out there providing the battery, DC output, AC inverter, BMS, and bluetooth access I don't think there's much savings in doing it yourself.

LOL I was referring to myself as the Goal Zero fanboy! Sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

[kcjaz]

Lots of good info being shared. Thanks all. I'm going a bit in circles debating between approaches here. I started with thinking I wanted a full featured Redvision expedition type system, you know, just incase I would actually go on a multi week off grid expedition. While I do hope to someday have the time for that, that time is not now. I like the concept of the seff contained systems (Yetti, Ecoflow, Jackery, etc) for the ease of it but I'd have to add a DC/DC charger for faster car charging. Doable but, you pay for the convivence and easy install. If I went that route, I think I'd do Ecoflow Delta 2 plus a DC-DC converter which would cost about $950. Not too bad and pretty easy to install. However, @TeCKis300's KISS system would only be about $500 at current pricing and doesn't seem that much more work to install and it would disappear in my drawer system. The Delta 2 would allow me to take it out of the truck and use it in other ways but I'm not sure I'd really ever do that. The KISS system would let me incrementally add on to or modify the system based on my own user feedback. Even if I eventually end up at an expedition level system, I'm only $500 into the KISS system ($230 of which is the 100AH battery) and I'll have got good use out of it learning what I really need.

 

[clrussell]

Just a side note on a jackery setup.

I use mine and my fridge on the boat when we go to the lake. Food in the fridge, beer in a bag cooler.

I love the versatility of the jackery. However for a dedicated expo rig I would go KISS

 

[kcjaz]

Just a side note on a jackery setup.

I use mine and my fridge on the boat when we go to the lake. Food in the fridge, beer in a bag cooler.

I love the versatility of the jackery. However for a dedicated expo rig I would go KISS

Funny you say that. I had the thought of using the fridge and a jackery or other on my boat and eliminate the ice hassle. However my boat has built in cooler and setting a 75l or even a 50l fridge on the floor eats up too much space (bow rider ski boat).. I wish it was dedicated space for a removeable cooler. The funny thing is that I do have dual start battery on the boat.

 

[clrussell]

Funny you say that. I had the thought of using the fridge and a jackery or other on my boat and eliminate the ice hassle. However my boat has built in cooler and setting a 75l or even a 50l fridge on the floor eats up too much space (bow rider ski boat).. I wish it was dedicated space for a removeable cooler. The funny thing is that I do have dual start battery on the boat.

Fridge on my pontoon is way handy.
I keep both of mine plugged in at home and stocked. It’s just grab, plug in and go

 

[Gazziza]

On the main page I see this big marketing photo:

A few take-aways...

1. Adhesive-lined shrink wrap and wire sleeves are a nice touch - I always like to see that.
2. Exposed, positive terminal is not a nice touch. In any frontal collision, the hood will almost certainly fold, contact the terminal, cause a short & fire. That terminal needs a terminal cover on it. Probably an innocent oversight in the photo.
3. I see "Off Grid Engineering" on the battery hold-down. This was a company that previously sold borderline identical kits (I had one for my own Tacoma). The kits were nice, but I heard through the grapevine that the company shut down in some shady form. This might be the same owner re-booting under a different name.

Having had a dual battery system before, my advise would be this: go through the expense and hassle only if you plan to be on the road (and thus constantly charging and discharging your house battery) for 2+ weeks at a time, on a fairly frequent basis. If you "overland" less frequently, or for shorter periods of time, a portable, standalone lithium battery (GoalZero, Jackery, or DIY) will be a more practical choice to power your fridge and/or other accessories.

It’s not the same company or owner. Matt Carter was the owner of Off-Grid Engineering based in Denver. While I have no knowledge of any shady shut downs of OGE, Matt opened up a full service upfitting and build shop called Off-Grid 4x4. They seem to be a very high quality shop building all sorts of vehicles from Toyota’s to full size HD rigs. They are also the Colorado dealer for FWC and used to be an OEV dealer. In fact I had my Ram 2500 build done by them. They do good work and have a great reputation. I think the company “shut down” because it was rolled into and transitioned into their full service shop rather than a separate entity. Personally I haven’t heard anything nefarious about their operation unless you know other details about it.

Off Grid 4x4

Off-Grid4x4

offgrid4x4.com