Out of no where, Flashing CEL, multiple misfire codes, stability lights and an engine knock (1 Viewer)

[leftfield6]

2005 LC with 222K, maintained to within an inch of it's life. All stock, no mods. I've never had so much as a single CEL in two years of ownership, until today. here is there chronology:

1. Toyota dealer for an oil change, they gave it a clean bid of health, no issues at all, other than saying next oil change I should probably get a new air filter.
2. Drive it home 10 or so miles, no problems. Park it.
3. Couple of hours later, leave and less than 1/2 mile from my house, this happens>
4. Flashing check engine light, same time as flashing VSC and Traction warning lights, very rough running.
5. Turn around back home to read codes P0300, P301, P302, P304, P0305
6. New sound from the engine. This knock was NOT there before. 40 seconds of video here --->
7. I cleared codes, and disconnected the battery for a while. Reconnected battery and started, knock was still there from the second I started it, and cel came back within 20 seconds. Still random misfires.

Does that knock sound as bad as I think it does? Any ideas?

 

[awesomeissquid]

Did you check the fluid level (thinking fluid level incorrect)?

When was the last timing belt change (thinking issue with timing belt)?

If you use a flashlight to look in the starter valley do you see any disconnected wires or debris possibly from a rodent (thinking sensors/wiring might have been damaged)?

It sounds more internal to the engine, but if you look at the fan do you see anything hitting it or the belt?

 

[leftfield6]

Did you check the fluid level (thinking fluid level incorrect)?

When was the last timing belt change (thinking issue with timing belt)?

If you use a flashlight to look in the starter valley do you see any disconnected wires or debris possibly from a rodent (thinking sensors/wiring might have been damaged)?

It sounds more internal to the engine, but if you look at the fan do you see anything hitting it or the belt?

Timing belt done with OEM parts about 8k miles ago. Don't see anything disconnected, all fluids are where they should be.

Crazy that it ran fine, and then right after just all went to sh*t

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Check your oil level to ensure they put the right amount in. Codes are misfires, usually coil packs, would coincide the the rough idle.

 

[leftfield6]

Check your oil level to ensure they put the right amount in. Codes are misfires, usually coil packs, would coincide the the rough idle.

Oil level is right on the full mark. Brand new oil with 10 miles on it, so it's perfectly clean, so a little hard to read, but looks like it's right on the mark.

 

[YezusLX]

Just some thoughts:
Have you gone through @2001LC Alerts regarding spark plugs? Also, he would be the one to ask regarding this issue. The man knows his stuff.
This could very well be the source of misfires and other assorted ailments.
Misfires can make an awful scary racket due to firing orders being out of sync.
VSC/TRAC lights will come on automatically with flashing CEL.

I had a similar issue when mine jumped timing due to an incorrectly installed TB tensioner from PO. However, mine did not start afterward, and no CEL. Sounded/Felt like a box of rocks and then died upon coming to a stop. No contact thank goodness. Blackstone sent back a clean bill of health. The new tensioner and timing reset correctly. Problem solved.

 

[fanboy]

Are the misfire codes always for the same cylinders? At some point in your diagnosis you may want to move the coil packs on affected cylinders to unaffected cylinders and see if the misfire codes also move.

I wonder if the oil change knocked something loose under the hood. That many misfires suddenly all at once suggests it's not at the coil packs but timing or ECU/alternator.

 

[leftfield6]

Are the misfire codes always for the same cylinders? At some point in your diagnosis you may want to move the coil packs on affected cylinders to unaffected cylinders and see if the misfire codes also move.

I wonder if the oil change knocked something loose under the hood. That many misfires suddenly all at once suggests it's not at the coil packs but timing or ECU/alternator.

Yeah, if I clear the codes, on restart they come back, but not the same cylinders always, and not the same order.

 

[leftfield6]

I will add as a data point, that the oil looks really thin to me. It is brand new (10-15 miles on it) so I understand why it is so clear and hard to see on the dipstick, but it looks and feels like a very thin oil. I know a lot of newer Toyotas use a much lighter oil like 0W-20, I'm wondering if the tech put the wrong oil in it. That might, I would guess, account for the knocking, not sure about the misfires though.

 

[2001LC]

Flashing CEL is not good. Avoid driving or running engine any more than you must.

I did notice a small coolant leak, at thermostat. Also Water temp gauge, reads a tad low. Check coolant level, in the morning. Park with front end higher than rear, the night before. Check under the radiator cap, before OAT or sun warms the air/vehicle. Coolant should be to top of radiator under the cap.

A 0W-20 motor oil, although a bit light for summer heat. Should not cause these issues in a non VVT 4.7L such as yours. Put a dab of oil from dip stick, on a white paper towel. If red, they mess up and added transmission fluid.

Also see if you can collect a sample of oil, about 1 oz. You may want to google this next parts, as I'm just spit-balling. Add water to oil form engine, in small container. mix, let settle. Oil and water will not mix.

 

[2001LC]

I always like to look at last service first. In your case oil & filter. So it may be a good idea to pull the oil filter. Which can be reused. Just make sure to oil rubber seal before re-installing. Look to make sure, in the case of a Toyota filter. They removed the clear plastic cover.

 

[leftfield6]

Flashing CEL is not good. Avoid driving or running engine any more than you must.

I did notice a small coolant leak, at thermostat. Also Water temp gauge, reads a tad low. Check coolant level, in the morning. Park with front end higher than rear, the night before. Check under the radiator cap, before OAT or sun warms the air/vehicle. Coolant should be to top of radiator under the cap.

A 0W-20 motor oil, although a bit light for summer heat. Should not cause these issues in a non VVT 4.7L such as yours. Put a dab of oil from dip stick, on a white paper towel. If red, they mess up and added transmission fluid.

Also see if you can collect a sample of oil, about 1 oz. You may want to google this next parts, as I'm just spit-balling. Add water to oil form engine, in small container. mix, let settle. Oil and water will not mix.

Thanks for the reply, I know you've helped many with issues like this. Coolant level is good, and it looks clean, doesn't seem to be compromised. Coolant gauge was reading a little low because I hadn't let it reach operating temp. As you suggested, I've been only running it long enough to get codes to repopulate after clearing.

I use a paper towel to check oil, and it looks light gold on the white paper towel. I think it is oil for sure.

 

[excessive]

it does not sound like rod knock, so thats good news
i would take a close look at coilpacks, spark plugs, and wiring.

 

[87warrior]

Knocks and sounds are hard to identify through a phone mic then speaker. To my ear its does not sound like a rod knock or even valvetrain noise. I suspect if the misfires get cleaned up, the sound will too.

As asked above, are your sparkplugs torqued and tight? What condition are your coil boots in?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the reply, I know you've helped many with issues like this. Coolant level is good, and it looks clean, doesn't seem to be compromised. Coolant gauge was reading a little low because I hadn't let it reach operating temp. As you suggested, I've been only running it long enough to get codes to repopulate after clearing.

I use a paper towel to check oil, and it looks light gold on the white paper towel. I think it is oil for sure.

I did see oil pressure gauge, pressure look okay.

Next I'd next check, making sure:
Make sure oil fill cap has it's rubber seal.
Air filter, and in the supply box, and pipe coming from within fender wheel well. We sometime get nest clogging air intake.
MAF connections.
Remove engine cover and check:
All vacuum hoses, including the two from idle up of vane pump.
Make sure butterfly of throttle body opens all the way. With IG key ON and gas pedal fully depressed.
Next check cam and crank sensor wires, along with all coils, spark plug and their wires.

I'm doing a similar, today. Although it's CEL solid (not flashing) and misfire DTC confirmed on all cylinders. It was report (not my scan) a pending MAF DTC, confirmed BK 1 & 2 rich, that is no longer showing up.

 

[abuck99]

From the sound byte- it sounds like metal on metal noise- to me anyway. I wouldn't touch or inspect anything further- and call the dealer to report the issue; that with in 10 miles of service- you have major engine problems. IMO- its unlikely a coincidental event. Keep in mind the guy changing oil is usually one step up from wash-bay guy- so who knows what they did or poured in during your fluid change. Prob drained the oil, got sidetracked forgot to re-fill it drove it out of the shop empty- then remembered it was empty went back and refilled it.

What else did you ask them to look over or do while in for the oil change?

Unrelated but wondered what oil you've got in your power steering reservoir- looks blue.

 

[leftfield6]

A non-update kind of update. Since it was just serviced at the dealer yesterday, and it left there with a clean bill of health, I had it towed in this morning for them to diagnose. All they did yesterday was an oil change, plus they always look at fluid levels, check air filter, stuff like that. Nothing that should have had the engine cover off or touched coils or plugs. The only service recommendation was air filter soon.

Talked to the service writer this morning and gave them the details, should hear something by end of day.

 

[leftfield6]

Just talked too the service department, not good. Dropped valve seat on cylinder #1. They are recommending replacing that cylinder head. Ugh!

 

[excessive]

I would get a 2nd opinion

 

[awesomeissquid]

How did they come to that determination? Did they scope the cylinder?