Out of no where, Flashing CEL, multiple misfire codes, stability lights and an engine knock (1 Viewer)

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I'm talking to an Toyota/Lexus independent to get it towed over to them for a 2nd look at it, for sure.

I talked to the shop foreman at the dealer, seemed like a good guy, said he had never seen this on the 2UZ FE engine. They scoped the cylinder, said the cylinder walls and piston look okay, but the head is not. They quoted over $6400 for a new head from Toyota with all gaskets/parts/install.

I talked to the independent shop today, obviously they haven't seen it yet, but if what the dealer says is true, they would recommend a under 100K JDM engine for about $6800 with 18 month warranty P/L. As they said, a new head on a 225K engine is still a 225K engine.

I've worked with this shop before, they are good people. I'll see what they say.
 
Ouch-

$1429 retail for a new head- discount online might be less by 20-30%. You need gasket kit. and other consumables. Its def a labor intensive job but not $4k worth.


 
I'm talking to an Toyota/Lexus independent to get it towed over to them for a 2nd look at it, for sure.

I talked to the shop foreman at the dealer, seemed like a good guy, said he had never seen this on the 2UZ FE engine. They scoped the cylinder, said the cylinder walls and piston look okay, but the head is not. They quoted over $6400 for a new head from Toyota with all gaskets/parts/install.

I talked to the independent shop today, obviously they haven't seen it yet, but if what the dealer says is true, they would recommend a under 100K JDM engine for about $6800 with 18 month warranty P/L. As they said, a new head on a 225K engine is still a 225K engine.

I've worked with this shop before, they are good people. I'll see what they say.
Well, its 225k miles on a motor that routinely goes over 500k without issues. I think the odds of having something go wrong with a 100k mile engine isn't much different than replacing the head on yours. Rotten luck, though.
 
Search "2uzfe engine" on eBay. Lots of options for a used engine under $2K. Yeah, the engine is used, but so is the rest of your car -- so what? These engines (usually) last a very long time. (Do we know how difficult it is to install a Tundra 2UZFE in an LC?)
 
I'm talking to an Toyota/Lexus independent to get it towed over to them for a 2nd look at it, for sure.

I talked to the shop foreman at the dealer, seemed like a good guy, said he had never seen this on the 2UZ FE engine. They scoped the cylinder, said the cylinder walls and piston look okay, but the head is not. They quoted over $6400 for a new head from Toyota with all gaskets/parts/install.

I talked to the independent shop today, obviously they haven't seen it yet, but if what the dealer says is true, they would recommend a under 100K JDM engine for about $6800 with 18 month warranty P/L. As they said, a new head on a 225K engine is still a 225K engine.

I've worked with this shop before, they are good people. I'll see what they say.

When bringing it to a different shop for second opinion - avoid letting them know the "findings" of the prior shop. Let the shop start with a clean slate.

I just went through a similar situation with a 99 UZJ100 in regards to terrible sound and P0300. Started super rough, with blinking P0300. Turns out crank position plug was bad internally. Even after plug was replaced, it continued to run rough. Took about 3 min of rough idle for engine to relearn everything. Then it was like a switch was flipped. Instantly went back to perfect running motor.

I mention this because misfires, bad timing, bad spark plugs, or coils can mimic the worst case scenario. I had the same scare.
 
I'm talking to an Toyota/Lexus independent to get it towed over to them for a 2nd look at it, for sure.

I talked to the shop foreman at the dealer, seemed like a good guy, said he had never seen this on the 2UZ FE engine. They scoped the cylinder, said the cylinder walls and piston look okay, but the head is not. They quoted over $6400 for a new head from Toyota with all gaskets/parts/install.

I talked to the independent shop today, obviously they haven't seen it yet, but if what the dealer says is true, they would recommend a under 100K JDM engine for about $6800 with 18 month warranty P/L. As they said, a new head on a 225K engine is still a 225K engine.

I've worked with this shop before, they are good people. I'll see what they say.
Just talked too the service department, not good. Dropped valve seat on cylinder #1. They are recommending replacing that cylinder head. Ugh!
A few things here:

1) Very easy to know if Dealership correct. Ask to review pic/video of valve seat. Post it here? If bad seat/valve/head, and all 8 cylinders walls look good. Replace or rebuild the head. I'll add: I've 300K miles plus engine still running strong, with excellent compression. Miles don't mean all that much. Proper service means everything.

2) Or find a replacement engine. You will not find a JDM 4.7L 2UZ engine. Anyone claiming to have one for sale, is a rip off. Finding a good 4.7L 2UZ, takes a lot of homework/inspecting. It's not just grab and go with the best deal.

I've seen my share of bad diagnostic, calling for major service, head or engine replacement. About 8 out of 10 are wrong.

____________________________________________

I mention I was working on one yesterday with similar running condition. DTC took me down a rabbit hole, pointing me away from my first though being the MAF. It was looking very bad for this engine. Since after clearing DTC (codes) different DTC came up, non being MAF. Those being P0300 and P0301-P0308 (9 DTC) came up with all cylinders misfire and it was running worst. MAF only ever showed as pending. First confirmed DTC were BK 1 & BK2 rich.


Runs strong now that I replaced (with OEM MAF) this bad looking MAF.
IMG_7555.JPEG


Proper replacement of air filter and regular cleaning of MAF sensor, is important. Proper means not only replacing ever 20K miles or sooner. But seating air filter seal properly.
 
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Absolutely going for a 2nd opinion! I let the dealer know today that I'm taking it somewhere else for a 2nd look, and they are less than thrilled, of course. I did talk to the shop foreman before letting them know that, but he said they didn't save pictures of the scope. To be fair to them, they have been cooperative and fair to me. I'm not here to thrash them. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a boroscope myself, so one will be here tomorrow, and I'll take a look before the vehicle is towed to the 2nd shop.

Clarification on the possible engine replacement, Shop #2 didn't specify the possible replacement engine would be JDM, I think I added that, I've gone down that road before with a Honda Element, so when I think Japanese car engine replacement, that just popped in my head. In thinking back to the conversation, I don't think he said JDM. All that said, it may not matter, because they can't find an engine anyway. My LC was an early production date for a 2005, it was built 08/04, and there was a split in 2005. Engines for after the cutoff date (I don't know the date, just that there is one) are available. Engines for LCs built BEFORE the cutoff date are not.

All that mean that if the diagnosis is correct, the only option may be replacement of that left side head. New is available, but expensive. Not sure about rebuilt availability or price for an early 2005 engine.

First things first, I need to confirm the diagnosis.
 
May 2005 was cut off date. After that they are the VVT (06-07) 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT. Any (100 series best) 4.7L 2UZ-fe non VVT will work. If a 100 series 03-05, it's a drop in (less labor)
 
Just noticed my weird typo in the thread title, and now I can't un-see it. :rolleyes:
 
I'm going to the dealer parking lot later today to scope the number 1 cylinder once USPS drops off my newly purchased boroscope. What tools do I need? Should be as simple as unplugging and removing the coil, then the spark plug, right? Anything else?

a 10mm socket to remove engine cover and the bolt holding the coil
a 8/3 spark plug socket for the plug itself

That's it, right? Don't have the vehicle in front of me at this moment, but I don't think anything blocks access to Cylinder 1
 
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That’s all you need. Make sure you bring some socket extensions. The only other thing is it would be good if you can blow out the cylinder with air before you remove the spark plug and coil. Since the dealer has already removed this it’s probably not a huge deal, but I would look down and make sure you don’t see anything that could fall in.
 
Make sure you understand how your boroscope is built and there's no tiny part that drops into your cylinder. A not-infrequent event when newbies start opening up their cylinders.
 
Make sure you understand how your boroscope is built and there's no tiny part that drops into your cylinder. A not-infrequent event when newbies start opening up their cylinders.
Yeah, I'll try to not make the situation worse! And I am a newbie when it comes to wrenching on the 4.7L, although I d have some years on messing with cars in my background. I've been piston deep into an engine before but it was a 2.0L 4 cylinder with a Weber, not a 4.7L with modern electronics.

Anyway, had to have it towed off the dealer lot this morning, they were not a pleasure to deal with once they learned I was not giving them over $6k for a new head, and I had the nerve to say I was taking it elsewhere for a second opinion. My scope did not get delivered yesterday so no chance to peak into that #1 cylinder to see the exhaust valve that is the suspect. If it is delivered today, I'll go to the 2nd shop parking lot to look later today or tomorrow.

Just thinking ahead, if I still need to be considering a replacement engine, and no engines are available for a 08/04 manufacture date Land Cruiser, what has to be swapped over to make the right year Tundra 4.7L work? Manifolds, intake? I think the Tundra engines were US built and the LC engines were Japan built, but not sure what else is different about them.
 
I’d replace the head and move forward
 
Been following this thread, but just now getting a chance to comment...

What a nightmare! Hopefully the indy can identify the issue and get it fixed without much drama or $$$. I still think the engine needs a good looking over, including all electrical connections. I find it dubious that a healthy 2UZ would drop a valve seat 10 miles after a dealer changed the oil. I get that things happen, but the timing is suspect to me.

I also agree that if it is the valve seat then change the head and move on. I personally wouldn't swap the whole engine for a head issue. Good 2UZ's are beginning to get hard to find and I'd rather repair my engine than swap out for an engine of unknown history and service life.
 
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