bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Remote oil filter
Our 1968 FJ55
- Thread starter Eovdubs
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #183
You know for know I think I will just stay manual brakes on Disc. It’s amazing what is still available from Toyota parts. Been using the parts book to find the correct numbers and searching. So far I have 2 hub seals, the locking washers, and the hub gaskets here. I ordered two new hub pins, and some replacement tie rod seals with rings.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Don’t forget the hose clamps
- Thread starter
- #187
One step closer, replaced the front hub seals, nut locks, new pins and gaskets on the front end. Installed the rotors calipers and plumbed the brake line.
Went to the back, installed the rotors, calipers and tires. Need the plumb the rear brake line and flex line across the rear axle. Then bend new tubing for the front and rear separation on the master cylinder. My brake line comes in tomorrow. Getting excited to see her run and stop.
Went to the back, installed the rotors, calipers and tires. Need the plumb the rear brake line and flex line across the rear axle. Then bend new tubing for the front and rear separation on the master cylinder. My brake line comes in tomorrow. Getting excited to see her run and stop.
- Thread starter
- #189
Oh the joys of owning old rigs. My taillights were not working, found a wire running from dash to the back along the frame. Got it all back together works great. It also took out the license plate lights too.
When I lowered the rear window so I could get to the wiring the unit was acting weird. Found a corroded almost broken wire at the tailgate hinge area, fixed that. That was after reinstalling the the rear window back in the track, now that was really fun.
All back together and everything is back up and working. My adventure started a couple weeks back when I ran a new line for the rear discs. After getting it all plumbed and connecting the battery back up noticed the amp guage wasn’t showing a charge. Pulled the alternator an went to NAPA they didn’t have the correct pigtail for my 1968 alternator. Brought it how and check the diodes with my meter. They tested ok, go figure. Pulled the voltage regulator and checked it with my meter main solenoid coil was good resistor on the back was good. So took some sand paper and cleaned the contacts. Reinstalled its working, who knows.
So today I drove it around my drive way, then pulled it on the road for the first time I would guess in 21 years. The throttle was a little sticky, both the clutch and brakes need a little bleeding, but she ran, shifted and stopped.
She’s far from being done needs a load of body work but the mechanicals are about done.
When I lowered the rear window so I could get to the wiring the unit was acting weird. Found a corroded almost broken wire at the tailgate hinge area, fixed that. That was after reinstalling the the rear window back in the track, now that was really fun.
All back together and everything is back up and working. My adventure started a couple weeks back when I ran a new line for the rear discs. After getting it all plumbed and connecting the battery back up noticed the amp guage wasn’t showing a charge. Pulled the alternator an went to NAPA they didn’t have the correct pigtail for my 1968 alternator. Brought it how and check the diodes with my meter. They tested ok, go figure. Pulled the voltage regulator and checked it with my meter main solenoid coil was good resistor on the back was good. So took some sand paper and cleaned the contacts. Reinstalled its working, who knows.
So today I drove it around my drive way, then pulled it on the road for the first time I would guess in 21 years. The throttle was a little sticky, both the clutch and brakes need a little bleeding, but she ran, shifted and stopped.
She’s far from being done needs a load of body work but the mechanicals are about done.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Woohoo!! That must be a great feeling!
- Thread starter
- #192
I’m having a problem with my engine that’s driving me nuts. Let me start off with what I have before I get into what it’s doing. It has a F engine block with what I believe to be a 2F cylinder head on it. The intake manifold has an adapter for the single barrel carb that fits the air cleaner.
The engine idles perfect, engine just purrs. The problem is when I come off idle it backfire through the carb. When you start driving down the road in 3rd it does the same thing.
I pulled the carb and gave it a cleaning and it’s still doing the same thing. I even sprayed some carb cleaner around the carb base and manifold with no rise in RPM.
Any ideas on what would cause this?
The engine idles perfect, engine just purrs. The problem is when I come off idle it backfire through the carb. When you start driving down the road in 3rd it does the same thing.
I pulled the carb and gave it a cleaning and it’s still doing the same thing. I even sprayed some carb cleaner around the carb base and manifold with no rise in RPM.
Any ideas on what would cause this?
RUSH55
SILVER Star
What’s been your latest fuel system and ignition maintenance?
What’s the status of valve adjustment?
What’s the status of valve adjustment?
- Thread starter
- #194
I replaced the fuel filter and rebuilt the carb. I need to check the timing I need to check valve lash.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Did you have the issue prior to rebuilding the carb? You’re certain all proper seals are installed and everything is adjusted correctly?
How did the hose and lines look when you replaced the filter?
How did the hose and lines look when you replaced the filter?
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Having proper pump pressure and float level is pretty important stuff. “They” say that you don’t really need to regulate pressure from an OEM mechanical pump, but if you add a regulator and a gauge to the system it gives you some additional information.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I would start here. ^^^
