Builds OTM Shop Build: SAS LX470 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bama4door
- Start date
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FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
This is a very cool obstacle. I know this rig is capable as ever but nice driving as well.
Bama4door
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #43
Few updates. We’ve taken the SAS LX on several wheeling trips to Hawk Pride, Stoney Lonesome, Morris Mountain, local spots and it’s been great so far.
We’ve added a few upgrades as well: RRW Beadlocks, Trail Tailor rear control arms, and RCV front axles.
One of my favorite additions has been the Dissent Extreme clearance front and rear bumpers. It’s made a huge difference in approach and departure angles.
We were at Morris Mountain Offroad Park for a scouting trip and I blew a stock birf and axle shaft, so it was time to upgrade. A few weeks later, we went back to MM for Yotathon and hit the rear driveshaft on a rock and put a pretty good dent in it, so it’s at the driveshaft shop getting rebuilt with before tube.
Our next big trip is Windrock in January for our clubs annual Coal Creek Winter Summit ride.
We have been playing around with the idea of changing up the radius arm setup and going to a Y link setup. Not sure if that will happen before Windrock or not. Other than that, I’d like to add hydro assist as well.
We’ve added a few upgrades as well: RRW Beadlocks, Trail Tailor rear control arms, and RCV front axles.
One of my favorite additions has been the Dissent Extreme clearance front and rear bumpers. It’s made a huge difference in approach and departure angles.
We were at Morris Mountain Offroad Park for a scouting trip and I blew a stock birf and axle shaft, so it was time to upgrade. A few weeks later, we went back to MM for Yotathon and hit the rear driveshaft on a rock and put a pretty good dent in it, so it’s at the driveshaft shop getting rebuilt with before tube.
Our next big trip is Windrock in January for our clubs annual Coal Creek Winter Summit ride.
We have been playing around with the idea of changing up the radius arm setup and going to a Y link setup. Not sure if that will happen before Windrock or not. Other than that, I’d like to add hydro assist as well.
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Rig looks great! How are you on rear tire clearance? I am running 37" Toyos and I had to install ridiculously tall bump stops to keep the lugs from digging into my wheel wells and Labs bumper. Now I have very limited up-travel. I know I can cut into the wheel wells, but I have seen what that involves and I'm not feeling very motivated to open that can of worms. That's my only complaint about 37s so far. My rear quarter panel is pretty banked up, so a 4-door UTE might be on the menu in the next few years.
what an amazing build!
I'm curious what this type of conversion costs, all-in. This is way more than what I "need" on mine, but it is very cool.
A few questions. because I want to do this someday to one of my 100's.
1. Can you please post more pictures of the steering box and stabilizer bar setup?
2. Is this the kit you used? Or is there a different one? (I know there are some customizations required)
3. Any reason you could not / chose not use the OEM 100 series transfer case?
1. Can you please post more pictures of the steering box and stabilizer bar setup?
2. Is this the kit you used? Or is there a different one? (I know there are some customizations required)
60 Series Coil Conversion Kit
Toyota Land Cruiser 60 Series This kit allows you to install an 80 series front suspension under your 60 series. Fabricated from HSLA steel and CNC cut and bent. This kit will use 80 series suspension parts on a 1:1 ratio. If you want a 2” lift order a 2” suspension components. We recommend...
www.trail-tailor.com
3. Any reason you could not / chose not use the OEM 100 series transfer case?
Bama4door
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #49
A lot of it depends on what all you want to do “while you’re in there”:
- add gears and lockers (98-02 4.30 gear, 80 front axle is 4.10 stock)
-tires and wheels (keep current setup or go bigger)
-changing rear suspension (are coils & shocks you currently have enough lift for tire size setup)
-transfer case gears, part time kit (optional)
-Marks 4wd ABS kit (optional)
-converting 80 6 lug axle to 5 lug using Toyota parts ($$$) vs 6 to 5 lug wheel spacers (cheaper option)
As far as labor, it’s not too bad of a swap. You can DM me or give our shop a call if you want a quote).
Bama4door
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #50
TT sells a kit for the 100, that 60 kit is not correct. You may have to email him.A few questions. because I want to do this someday to one of my 100's.
1. Can you please post more pictures of the steering box and stabilizer bar setup?
2. Is this the kit you used? Or is there a different one? (I know there are some customizations required)
60 Series Coil Conversion Kit
Toyota Land Cruiser 60 Series This kit allows you to install an 80 series front suspension under your 60 series. Fabricated from HSLA steel and CNC cut and bent. This kit will use 80 series suspension parts on a 1:1 ratio. If you want a 2” lift order a 2” suspension components. We recommend...www.trail-tailor.com
3. Any reason you could not / chose not use the OEM 100 series transfer case?
I would keep the stock 100 tcase and put in Sumo low range gears.
Hoping to do this same swap on my wifes 100 series before we give it to my daughter down the road. looks like it was a resounding success. was there any issues with integration like ABS or anything like that? Our 100 doesnt have ahc or anything like that thankfully
GTV
SILVER Star
May I ask why? Unless you have a very unique wife and daughter they would most likely appreciate IFS a lot more.
Because the options for a solid axle Toyota wagon with a front locker, airbags, and ABS that will drive safely at 75 mph are either 80 series with an LS or solid axle 100 series. Both of those are pretty readily doable in my driveway. The 100 series being significantly easier. If the front axle is already built and ready to go you could knock the project out in 1-2 days
We’ve had the 100 series for 12 years and the IFS has left us stranded. @TRAIL TAILOR actually was the one that bailed us out of that one. My 60 series is actually our “more reliable Land Cruiser” now
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Bama4door
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #55
I did not run the Marks 4wd ABS kit they make, like @UZJ105. I just have the front ABS sensor harnesses unplugged. You get lights on the dash, but it wasn’t worth the extra money for me. I do daily this truck a lot and have had no issues with not having ABS. It stops the 37s very easily.
Oh perfect. This project is way out for me but I’ll add the marks adapter to the part list. I can’t run ABS from my 80 axle swap on my 60 and I’ve had the same experience as you. No issues. Your 100 looks great man. You did an amazing job
A SAS in 1-2 days? Unless you have a shop and employees, I think you're underestimating how much work is involved. The axle is the easiest part. It took me and a very competent friend working every weekend for almost 4 months. If we had a lift, it would have gone a little faster.
Not to hijack this thread, but lost a diff seal on a road trip from Oregon to California. Slowly leaked the gear oil out of the driver side CV to diff extension housing and ran the diff completely dry on the highway. Then had to have the truck towed from NorCal to northern Oregon. PO used an aftermarket seal and I guess it just gave up
Those seals are above differential reservoir. If you ran dry, it's because your drain plug was leaking. Can't really blame anything on the P.O. if you've owned it for 12 years. Quite honestly, if you can do a SAS in 1-2 days, bypassing the front diff should've been super easy for you.
I honestly dont remember which seal it was, it was one of the outers that interface with the CV. Either driver or passenger.
If the seals are above the fluid and dont need to be there.... why are there seals there in the first place? How does that extension tube get oil? The drain and fill plugs werent leaking, i know this because it happened to me and it was just filled before the trip and had new washers on both drain and fill plugs.
Its not like This isnt a common place to leak gear oil or anything
Its really weird you are trying to tell me what happened to me without being there. Why dont you do this. Back out your CVs a little, punch a hole in the seals. Reinstall. Then drive around and tell me how long your front diff stays full. Also, tell me again how i am going to bypass the front diff on a full time vehicle travelling 75 mph on i5. As far as blaming it on the PO. I didnt put the aftermarket axles and seals in it. I dont know of anyone else coming to my house while im sleeping and working on my wifes grocery getter truck while im sleeping. Maybe its the elf on the shelf and not the person who owned the vehicle before me.
Better yet, to not further hijack this thread, why dont you send me a pm or start a new thread.
Im trying to figure out where your butthurt is coming from here. Is it because i said the 100 series SAS can be done in a day? Because with the TT kit its very doable in a day. I did the front of my 60 series with his kit in less than a day Including cutting off mounts using an angle grinder. It was very very simple.
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I converted my fj60 to coils front and rear using the @TRAIL TAILOR kit in my garage floor on jackstands. I did it alone with a grinder, sawsall, mig welder, and tig welder. The front took a solid 6 hours. The rear took about 2 days. The little stuff of getting everything perfect took another week or so.
Id say it took longer to nail my rear pinion angle on the vertical and horizontal plane with the adjustable upper and lower control arms... as well as dead centering the rear axle vertically and horizontally than it did to do the front swap (the rear diff is more centered on the 80 axles vs the 60 series). I have a thread on it in the 60 series section. To be fair ive solid axle swapped a few mini trucks using leafs and those took longer than using the trail tailor kit. Jason really takes all of the guesswork out of it and makes these swap conversions accessible to everyone. This is more of a testament to the quality of Trail Tailors kits versus my personal skill level here.
Admittedly i havent really looked too much into the 100 series swap and the 2 things that i can see being difficult is adapting ABS and switching from the steering rack to a steering box, but if an 80 series steering box can be used its just 4 holes and 4 sleeves in the frame im assuming with a scab plate. Pretty standard work on mini truck SASs when you relocate the steering box forward
Heres the front of my 60
Heres the back (disregard the cut off exhaust, thats since been fixed. This pic is old)
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