Opinions on this water to air intercooler for LJ78 / 2LTE? (1 Viewer)

[GTSSportCoupe]

Quick simple added question - the heat exchanger on this set up is less than 12” x 8”. This is sufficient in a water / air setup? My long range plans include an ARB bumper - how much airflow is needed for this?
TIA!

I'm using a 26"x7"x2" intercooler radiator and an ebay a/w intercooler with a 9"x4"x3.5" core (overall size 9.25"x6"x3.5"). I'd say the a/w intercooler (part that boosted air flows through) is just the right size. The intercooler radiator (at front of my vehicle) is probably on the big side for the engine. A number of the guys here have used smaller ones with good result. My setup is working very well to this day. I use a Bosch pump. I let it run continually when ever the vehicle is running. Recently I checked the brushes (after 6 years of use) and they were still 90%.

 

[Ebike toter]

I'm a little hesitant to reply.. I'm like a basher magnet these days... all I can comment on is my phase 1 mods on my 2l-te. I have wired shut my my ct20 wastegate.. with my rig (and only my rig) I am getting 10 psi boost at 2000rpm.. maxing out at around 17psi at 3500 rpm.. with top mount intercooler & hood scoop.. want to turn up the fuel (I'm running lean at 17.5 AFR (air to fuel ratio) at max boost... lower boost AFR is super lean at 20.5...ideal is 14.5 AFR.. I tried following the instructions posted but I can't get the stinking cap off with pliers.. ugh!!
As far as the size of a air to water intercooler it's not the size.. it's the heat transfer surface area & the temperature of the coolant.. along with intercooler take a look at your exhaust.. as also mentioned on the forums as well. I went with a super shorty 3" with a thru glasspack muffler.. + all the other recommended mods (snorkel, disco butterflys..etc)

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I'm a little hesitant to reply.. I'm like a basher magnet these days... all I can comment on is my phase 1 mods on my 2l-te. I have wired shut my my ct20 wastegate.. with my rig (and only my rig) I am getting 10 psi boost at 2000rpm.. maxing out at around 17psi at 3500 rpm.. with top mount intercooler & hood scoop.. want to turn up the fuel (I'm running lean at 17.5 AFR (air to fuel ratio) at max boost... lower boost AFR is super lean at 20.5...ideal is 14.5 AFR.. I tried following the instructions posted but I can't get the stinking cap off with pliers.. ugh!!
As far as the size of a air to water intercooler it's not the size.. it's the heat transfer surface area & the temperature of the coolant.. along with intercooler take a look at your exhaust.. as also mentioned on the forums as well. I went with a super shorty 3" with a thru glasspack muffler.. + all the other recommended mods (snorkel, disco butterflys..etc)

@Ebike toter : Be very careful when you start adjusting the spill control valve screw as if done wrong it can put your motor into runaway! Screw in for more fuel and out for less. DO NOT screw it in more than about 3/4 turn. Rev the engine by hand with the throttle lever to make sure it doesn't hang or go into run away. If it does, just screw the SPV screw back out a bit until it doesn't.

This screw is the key to major power, but of course make sure your AFR's are safe. Also, as you likely know, running diesels on a lean AFR is good and safe (cool EGT). It's running a rich AFR that is dangerous (high EGT). So you'll have to find the balance that works.

Sounds like things are coming along well for you. How are you getting around the OEM fuel cut that happens at 14psi? Very curious....as I'd love to know a better way than I've been doing it.

 

[Ebike toter]

@Ebike toter : Be very careful when you start adjusting the spill control valve screw as if done wrong it can put your motor into runaway! Screw in for more fuel and out for less. DO NOT screw it in more than about 3/4 turn. Rev the engine by hand with the throttle lever to make sure it doesn't hang or go into run away. If it does, just screw the SPV screw back out a bit until it doesn't.

This screw is the key to major power, but of course make sure your AFR's are safe. Also, as you likely know, running diesels on a lean AFR is good and safe (cool EGT). It's running a rich AFR that is dangerous (high EGT). So you'll have to find the balance that works.

Sounds like things are coming along well for you. How are you getting around the OEM fuel cut that happens at 14psi? Very curious....as I'd love to know a better way than I've been doing it.

I've gone totally fred flinstone. I've wired the wastegate shut..I've clocked ( rotated) the turbo so the wastegate actuator no longer aligns with the blown off valve. there are multiple threads about adding an air bleed valve to "trick" the factory boost sensor & add a couple psi

I'm at high altitude so my absolute boost pressure readout on my independent ecm computer is negative 7 psi at idle & I get 10 psi boost at 3500rpm
When I was at sea level I saw the same boost numbers.. warning.. I keep one eye on the road & one on egt's/boost pressure... I know that this is pressing the limits of my phase 1 modded 2L-TE.. & I only report on MY data.. if you do not follow ALL the helpful upgrades on these forums & add the additional system mods I have done you WILL end up with a complete meltdown...
Cheers

 

[Musafir]

You guys have probably seen these, but here are a few photos of a air/water setups that a few of us have built now. And I can say this design works very effectively. Facilitated transformation of my 2LTE from a pathetic anemic fragile thing into a decently capable and powerful engine.

My setup after I first built it:

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What type of welder did you use?

 

[nomadtribe]

You guys have probably seen these, but here are a few photos of a air/water setups that a few of us have built now. And I can say this design works very effectively. Facilitated transformation of my 2LTE from a pathetic anemic fragile thing into a decently capable and powerful engine.

My setup after I first built it:

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Hi @GTSSportCoupe

I have ordered my water to air intercooler kit, but have a question regarding the pump wiring.

Have you wired this with a switch in the cabin or is there an easier way to wire for power on startup by tapping into the ECD or engine fuses?

As always - your guidance is greatly appreciated.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hi @GTSSportCoupe

I have ordered my water to air intercooler kit, but have a question regarding the pump wiring.

Have you wired this with a switch in the cabin or is there an easier way to wire for power on startup by tapping into the ECD or engine fuses?

As always - your guidance is greatly appreciated.

My pump runs anytime the key is in 'on' position.

I use a relay to do this. The control side of the relay gets power from the OEM Toyota Auxiliary Power Box, and the power side of the relay gets fused power directly from the battery.

I use that strategy for pretty much all the extra wiring I've added (for trailer connector, elec fans, subwoofer, intercooler pump, etc.)

This is how the OME Aux power box looks. It's handy for controlling relays!

 

[nomadtribe]

My pump runs anytime the key is in 'on' position.

I use a relay to do this. The control side of the relay gets power from the OEM Toyota Auxiliary Power Box, and the power side of the relay gets fused power directly from the battery.

I use that strategy for pretty much all the extra wiring I've added (for trailer connector, elec fans, subwoofer, intercooler pump, etc.)

This is how the OME Aux power box looks. It's handy for controlling relays!

View attachment 3151429

Thank you. Very nice. Will take this approach

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thank you. Very nice. Will take this approach

You're welcome. The OEM power box is handy, as it has constant 12V, accessory 12V, and on 12V. It can't supply a ton of current, which is why I still use relays. But it is great for all sorts of things. Toyota had a good idea with that.

 

[NJ KZJ78]

I think most all of us so far have put it off to the side. The couple bends make virtually no difference in performance. On a turbo engine, post turbo piping has was less impact on performance than on a normally aspirated engine. Pre turbo is a different story. Freeing up flow there is a very good thing.

I don't think the cooler you've linked to will fit. Make one out of cardboard that is exactly the same dimensions, and try placing it on top of your valve cover. I think you'll find that it covers your oil filler cap, might interfere with the throttle cable and hood. And the inlet/outlet are too high up.

Does your A/C work and do you use it? If not, the best performance/simplicity/cost option is a front mount intercooler setup like this: How to Install a Intercooler on a '91 Prado EX5 (2L-TE)?

On the highway (where you really need an intercooler to perform), an air/air system is just as good if not better than an air/water. Air/water is better around town though.... Only reason I went air/water is to retain the A/C (no room for pipes to the front of the truck there).

I am looking into intercooler options. I'd like a front mount and air/water because I use my A/C in the summers (with family). I want to avoid trimming the front grille which I've heard can happen. I'm curious, what brand and model number air/water did you use? Did it require trimming of the grille?

 

[Houser]

Found all this stuff on ebay. Did not have to trim the grill or bore holes in the fire wall. The coolant hoses routed under the Rad frame. Did need to fab up an intake flange.

 

[NJ KZJ78]

Found all this stuff on ebay. Did not have to trim the grill or bore holes in the fire wall. The coolant hoses routed under the Rad frame. Did need to fab up an intake flange.

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Thanks! What brand and model # kit?

 

[Houser]

Its not a kit. All the parts are sold separately. have a nice search.

 

[AirheadNut]

Its not a kit. All the parts are sold separately. have a nice search.

I’d say that pretty well sums up Prado ownership.