Open Source GX460 Drawer System (DIY) (2 Viewers)

[jakemccurdy]

your YourTube

My YT income doesn’t even cover the cost of random s*** I buy just to make the videos funner. Doing it out of love!… and narcissism… well, mostly narcissism

 

[jakemccurdy]

 

[jakemccurdy]

My drawer system is coming along. One side down. I'm planning to add an overlay face later to make it look good and side wings. Working through how to mount the second set of slides to the center verticals. I'll probably make some custom brackets...not sure yet. I'll probably be into this $1250 and a priceless amount of time when I'm done.

 

[Cold Iron]

Here's how the frame is shaping up:


Ordered up brackets for the drawer system from SendCutSend.com. Wholly s***, that would have been WAAAAAAAAAY faster and easier than the way I did it, even with Kan the machinist's help. You should be able to take the DXF file Kan made for me and upload it to send cut send and get a set of front brackets for about $30-50.

I designed and ordered 8 steel brackets for the drawer / kitchen chassis in an afternoon. They'll be here in about 10 days powder coated for $60 total.

Now I just need to order some heavy sliders and wait for Thanksgiving so my dad can help me build the box. Progress! Planing on a slide out kitchen similar to ADGU.... still trying to figure out where the 70LB dog is going to go.... I took the 40 seat out and may make him a little platform there with a chest tether so he doesn't kill us in a roll over.

Any of you guys with drawer systems rocking a kennel? I could put it above the drawer but I'm afraid it will be a pain to get him to jump in and he'll be rocked all over the place on the trail sitting that high.

I've only had my GX460 a bit over a month but found your video a couple of weeks ago. Have watched it several times and am going to use some of your ideas like sandwiched 1/2" baltic birch and the L tracks. I'm pulling the 2nd row 60% seat as well as 3rd row. Tomorrow the Ironman base is supposed to be delivered. But will be a few months until it warms up enough for me to do start work on it. Which is fine with me I am still in the research and design phase.

As to the kennel that is what my drawer will be built around and yes it will sit on top of it. Only having one drawer on passanger side. If I need to use the other crate for the other dog it will just sit on the platform tied down. I see you have a rack in the overhead I used to have a rubbermaid shelf in my Xterra many years ago. Not sure if I am going with one on the GX but if I do that will decide how tall the drawer will be obviously. The crate will need to sit in between the two.

Sitting that high is not a problem. Went back and looked at the video (again LOL) and didn't see him but IIRC you have a springer? I run Nova Scotia Duck Tollers in Ruff Tough which is now RuffLand Intermediate Crates. I use D rings from Amazon attached to the crates to secure them they have lots of attachment points. The Intermediate is large enough for a 70 pound Springer.

The Admiral runs Weims and the Captain runs a GSP so I take the second crate out of the buggy when hunting Canada with them. Their dogs are too large for the Intermediate crate. My oldest is getting too old for hunting although he doesn't think so only run one crate now. As he started to age out I took a folding step for him to help him get up in the back of the buggy.

It folds flat and takes up very little room. I also put down non skid foam that is used for Kayaks on the tailgate to provide better traction it has held up well. Already bought a section of it for the GX to put on the bumper.

I built the dog box mainly out of 1/2" marine grade baltic birch and dimensional lumber. You can see the sag in the middle of it and that is by design. I cut it close on height to allow for the recovery gear boxes below the shelf. I ran a piece of all thread below it to limit drop but need that gap to put the crates in. And take them out.

They do sell aluminum and plastic toppers for the Polaris Ranger but where I take it they would have been shredded in hours.

The 1/2" Baltic Birch has held up well. But I am not taking the GX down some of those places LOL. Still will be going in some pretty tight spots with it though.

I don't have to tell the dogs to load up twice as soon as I open the crate door they jump in and love riding up there. They know that an adventure is just over the next bump.

 

[jakemccurdy]

@Cold Iron Yeah, I'm still muddling around with what to do with Blazer. I definitely need to get him in a Kennel. He's a Brittany lab mix (I think). He looks like a Brittany's but weighs 65lbs. He's Just as high-strung as a Brittany, though, and doesn't like change. For the last 4 years, I've been able to just open the back door and say "Truck" and he bounds in. He's crate trained but we haven't used his inside crate in the last year so I need to start reintroducing it so the transition to an eventual truck crate is easier.

I'm going to add single-position L-tracks to the top of the drawer deck - (https://amzn.to/3H3eKcg) and run the screws into the vertical supports of my drawer frame as they're tapped with M-6 holes. That should allow me to keep his kennel up there safely. I took the 40% seat out (currently nothing there), and he rode there when we wheeled last weekend because he was sliding around on the platform too much, but it's not safe. He was able to jump in and out through the side door pretty easily, though, since it's so much lower than the rear deck. I thought about just harnessing him into that position but really need him in a crate since I do some mild crawling on occasion and he get's tossed around pretty bad. I wish I had a split tailgate like all the full-sized cruisers to make dog ingress easier but I can't imagine giving up my barn door. Next dog will be smaller as I'll be in my 50's by then and won't want to lift a big dog in/out once he gets too old to jump to drawer deck height.

My last video shows the Bison Gear gear shelf and flip-down table. That's a great system and only $170 without the cargo divider or $300 with the flip-down cargo barrier. I love mine. I've got 24" to the cargo shelf from the deck, so it looks like that Ruffland intermediate will fit.

One note on the platform, if you want to make it a little easier on yourself and go with a similar design to mine, you can put rivnuts in the molded section of floor plan in the front instead of making 3/16" brackets like I did with the machinist. That's what Lifestyle Overland did in their GX. I don't think it's as strong, but I tend to overthink and overbuild. I had SendCutSend.com make the brackets that tie my drawers to the floor (see pics above) and now the M-10's that tie the platform down go through those first before going through my platform brackets and into the truck.

I wish I would have done that for the front brackets I made with Kwon. It would have been soooooo much easier and cost about the same or less. The brackets for the drawer system were like $50, so adding those to the order might make it $75 or so.

When I'm done, I'll compile all my design files along with a parts list so anyone who wants to make something similar can just order the parts, cut the wood, and assemble. I'll probably add a set of design files to get the front brackets made by send cut send or another laser cut vendor then as well.

Thanks for following along and sharing the pics and Kennel info. Let me know how your platform build goes and happy New Year!

 

[Cold Iron]

Options, options, options. Sounds like we are in the same boat. I've got an eight year old and a dog though instead of two dogs. About the same size...

I hadn't seen the Anker fridges, they look pretty swanky, similar to the ecoflow. Dogs ride on the drawer system? If not, you could consider ADGU's slide out kitchen with low pro fridge slide. Their stuff is beautiful and I'm taking a bit of inspo from there. I'd just do that if I had money to burn. I asked if they wanted to swing a deal on a system for me before I started this because it was the only commercial system I like. Didn't hear back so I'm sure they're selling as many as they can make. At least that's what I told my ego : )

Doubt it would fit but a drop down slide out the passenger door would be great.... but they're a grand...

I sent ADGU an email about a week ago about selling me just the end caps for the rear trim

Crickets. Few days ago they posted on FB about a new fridge slide out they are offering. Someone asked them the same question about selling just the end caps. I jumped in and said I had sent them an email inquiring about the same thing. They told us to send emails again and they would respond. Which they did. $200, $100 each! So pondering the situation got to thinking why not just cut a short section of the single cross piece that is removed as caps. I did some digging around this morning and found the trim piece new $249, used on ebay from $80-$150. Watched a third seat removal video again and it hit me that I don't need that piece once the platform goes in but as a backup in case I want to ever put the 3rd row seats back in can get a replacement easy enough. And cheap enough to just buy the piece then.

Yes I also have a problem with over building and over engineering LOL.

@Cold Iron Yeah, I'm still muddling around with what to do with Blazer. I definitely need to get him in a Kennel. He's a Brittany lab mix (I think). He looks like a Brittany's but weighs 65lbs. He's Just as high-strung as a Brittany, though, and doesn't like change. For the last 4 years, I've been able to just open the back door and say "Truck" and he bounds in. He's crate trained but we haven't used his inside crate in the last year so I need to start reintroducing it so the transition to an eventual truck crate is easier.

I'm going to add single-position L-tracks to the top of the drawer deck - (https://amzn.to/3H3eKcg) and run the screws into the vertical supports of my drawer frame as they're tapped with M-6 holes. That should allow me to keep his kennel up there safely. I took the 40% seat out (currently nothing there), and he rode there when we wheeled last weekend because he was sliding around on the platform too much, but it's not safe. He was able to jump in and out through the side door pretty easily, though, since it's so much lower than the rear deck. I thought about just harnessing him into that position but really need him in a crate since I do some mild crawling on occasion and he get's tossed around pretty bad. I wish I had a split tailgate like all the full-sized cruisers to make dog ingress easier but I can't imagine giving up my barn door. Next dog will be smaller as I'll be in my 50's by then and won't want to lift a big dog in/out once he gets too old to jump to drawer deck height.

My last video shows the Bison Gear gear shelf and flip-down table. That's a great system and only $170 without the cargo divider or $300 with the flip-down cargo barrier. I love mine. I've got 24" to the cargo shelf from the deck, so it looks like that Ruffland intermediate will fit.

One note on the platform, if you want to make it a little easier on yourself and go with a similar design to mine, you can put rivnuts in the molded section of floor plan in the front instead of making 3/16" brackets like I did with the machinist. That's what Lifestyle Overland did in their GX. I don't think it's as strong, but I tend to overthink and overbuild. I had SendCutSend.com make the brackets that tie my drawers to the floor (see pics above) and now the M-10's that tie the platform down go through those first before going through my platform brackets and into the truck.

I wish I would have done that for the front brackets I made with Kwon. It would have been soooooo much easier and cost about the same or less. The brackets for the drawer system were like $50, so adding those to the order might make it $75 or so.

When I'm done, I'll compile all my design files along with a parts list so anyone who wants to make something similar can just order the parts, cut the wood, and assemble. I'll probably add a set of design files to get the front brackets made by send cut send or another laser cut vendor then as well.

Thanks for following along and sharing the pics and Kennel info. Let me know how your platform build goes and happy New Year!

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Thanks for the heads up and will be watching for your updates! At 65 I can assure you that you are correct, you don't want to be lifting the dog once you get older. I was fine in my 50's but once I hit 60 things started to fall apart

FedEx just delivered the Ironman mounting kit

Not sure if it is going to be strong enough I assume it will be at least for the rear. For $61 on sale thought I wouldn't get burned too bad to try it. FedEx did usual delivery and the box is ripped with a machine bolt hanging out of it. It is heavy but not sure just how heavy duty it is going to be, I assume decent enough if it is the base for the Ironman drawers. But don't know height, etc.

I will be watching your build I really like it so far and well done! Very well done.

The ADGU platform without drawers is $1600 and with drawers $2800. And prices are going up on the first. Pretty sure you are money ahead at this point and you are building for your needs, which I feel is important in the end.

 

[jakemccurdy]

@Cold Iron yeah ADGU is pretty proud of their stuff. And they should be, it looks really well designed and executed. But $100/ cap sounds like a “go away” price.

Before I started all this I looked closer and realized they’re execution is the best in class but the design is heavily inspired by what the van life guys have done for decades. They’re differentiator is the small fit and finish things like the 3d printed end caps, etc. So I get why they’re protecting them.

Since I couldn’t stomach 3k+ to replace my $120 investment in roof boxes, I decided to just make my own and share how I did it with everyone. Im glad I did. Ive learned a ton and got to pick up some wood working skills from my dad along the way.

Ive been playing with cad software and modeled my drawer system in sketchup. I just made some abs inserts to cover the side gaps for now (see pics) but I might be able to make some end caps like theirs and have a buddy with a 3d printer. If/when I get that done I’ll sell you a set for whatever they cost to make. Likely a couple bucks plus shipping : ) or, I’ll just post the design files so anybody can order them for $10-15 from one of the many mail order 3d printing outfits.

 

[Ohio Nori]

Odd. I bought my ADGU 3D printed caps a couple years ago for like $75. They used to print batches. Fit/finish is not excellent, though.

 

[WorthlessMamluk]

@Cold Iron yeah ADGU is pretty proud of their stuff. And they should be, it looks really well designed and executed. But $100/ cap sounds like a “go away” price.

Before I started all this I reached out to see if they’d give me a discount to sponsor a video. Crickets as well : ) thats when I looked closer and realized they’re execution is the best in class but the design is heavily inspired by what the van life guys have done for decades. They’re differentiator is the small fit and finish things like the 3d printed end caps, etc. So I get why they’re protecting them.

Since they didn’t respond and I couldn’t stomach 3k+ to replace my $120 investment in roof boxes, I decided to just make my own and share how I did it with everyone. Im glad I did. Ive learned a ton and got to pick up some wood working skills from my dad along the way.

Ive been playing with cad software and modeled my drawer system in sketchup. I just made some abs inserts to cover the side gaps for now (see pics) but I might be able to make some end caps like theirs and have a buddy with a 3d printer. If/when I get that done I’ll sell you a set for whatever they cost to make. Likely a couple bucks plus shipping : ) or, I’ll just post the design files so anybody can order them for $10-15 from one of the many mail order 3d printing outfits.

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That looks great. I'd buy both the side gap covers and caps if you made them.

 

[Ohio Nori]

@Cold Iron yeah ADGU is pretty proud of their stuff. And they should be, it looks really well designed and executed. But $100/ cap sounds like a “go away” price.

Before I started all this I reached out to see if they’d give me a discount to sponsor a video. Crickets as well : ) thats when I looked closer and realized they’re execution is the best in class but the design is heavily inspired by what the van life guys have done for decades. They’re differentiator is the small fit and finish things like the 3d printed end caps, etc. So I get why they’re protecting them.

Since they didn’t respond and I couldn’t stomach 3k+ to replace my $120 investment in roof boxes, I decided to just make my own and share how I did it with everyone. Im glad I did. Ive learned a ton and got to pick up some wood working skills from my dad along the way.

Ive been playing with cad software and modeled my drawer system in sketchup. I just made some abs inserts to cover the side gaps for now (see pics) but I might be able to make some end caps like theirs and have a buddy with a 3d printer. If/when I get that done I’ll sell you a set for whatever they cost to make. Likely a couple bucks plus shipping : ) or, I’ll just post the design files so anybody can order them for $10-15 from one of the many mail order 3d printing outfits.

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I would be interested in the gap covers. I think they would be too large for my printer bed.

 

[r2m]

@Cold Iron yeah ADGU is pretty proud of their stuff. And they should be, it looks really well designed and executed. But $100/ cap sounds like a “go away” price.
Ive been playing with cad software and modeled my drawer system in sketchup. I just made some abs inserts to cover the side gaps for now (see pics) but I might be able to make some end caps like theirs and have a buddy with a 3d printer. If/when I get that done I’ll sell you a set for whatever they cost to make. Likely a couple bucks plus shipping : ) or, I’ll just post the design files so anybody can order them for $10-15 from one of the many mail order 3d printing outfits.

For $100.00/cap, one can buy a decent 3D printer and make your own! There are good printers for less than $200.00 now.

Also Jake, you say the time spent is priceless, but so is ALL the knowledge gained in doing it yourself! Learning 3D cad is huge. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be amazed at what you can model to help with building project or 3D printing. Designed and 3D modeled (in SolidWorks) a simple wooden toolbox to build with granddaughter and it came out great! Everything lined up and went together great and it was a simple satisfying project for a 5 year old little girl.
Now if "Wasting time in the woods" ever flops (hope not), you'll have a backup job!!!

 

[jakemccurdy]

Now if "Wasting time in the woods" ever flops

Yeah. Thats where my money comes from

 

[jakemccurdy]

Finally getting back to finishing this up. Got the second drawer built and assembled the second side of the frame. I think all I have left is to build the two-drawer top deck and drawer faces and finish it out. A sleeping platform and side wings after that.



@Cold Iron Here is a closer look at my brackets. I was thinking L-track fasteners at first like you mentioned, but I didn't want to have get the drilling perfect or make huge holes in case I miss since the L-track fasteners are dependent on fixed L-track positions. I also wanted all metal connections from the frame all the way to the seat bolt holes.

Instead, I designed custom L-shaped steel brackets and got them laser cut from Send Cut Send (about $50 I think). I bolted those through the deck bolts and then connected them to the frame using M6 roll-in nuts. I added a couple more m6 screws and T-nuts under the platform deck at the rear for extra stability since my rear brackets deflected a bit with the drawer all the way out and weight on it. 8 total brackets, one through each platform bolt position (3rd row seat mounting points)

I’ll post my bracket design files as soon as I have a chance to double check them. Anyone who’s interested can get their own set from sendcutsend.com.

 

[r2m]

Finally getting back to finishing this up. Got the second drawer built and assembled the second side of the frame. I think all I have left is to build the two-drawer top deck and drawer faces and finish it out. A sleeping platform and side wings after that.



@Cold Iron Here is a closer look at my brackets. I was thinking L-track fasteners at first like you mentioned, but I didn't want to have get the drilling perfect or make huge holes in case I miss since the L-track fasteners are dependent on fixed L-track positions. I also wanted all metal connections from the frame all the way to the seat bolt holes.

Instead, I designed custom L-shaped steel brackets and got them laser cut from Send Cut Send (about $50 I think). I bolted those through the deck bolts and then connected them to the frame using M6 roll-in nuts. I added a couple more m6 screws and T-nuts under the platform deck at the rear for extra stability since my rear brackets deflected a bit with the drawer all the way out and weight on it. 8 total brackets, one through each platform bolt position (3rd row seat mounting points)

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I’ll post my bracket design files as soon as I have a chance to double check them. Anyone who’s interested can get their own set from sendcutsend.com.

What do you think your failure point will be? The hold down bolts or the slides or maybe the drawers?
And if so, at what weight?
To clarify, not asking you flex your design to failure, but do you have an idea of how much it can handle?

 

[jakemccurdy]

What do you think your failure point will be? The hold down bolts or the slides or maybe the drawers?
And if so, at what weight?
To clarify, not asking you flex your design to failure, but do you have an idea of how much it can handle?

Trying to build it so there will never be a failure point, but if you mean what would break first if I put the truck in a giant rock tumbler with the drawers loaded up with bricks? I suppose the eight M-6 bolts holding the frame to the platform brackets shearing off? There's 12 M-6's holding the sliders in (3x 4 sliders) Or maybe the top deck popping off and dumping the bricks but I think the wood would disintegrate first. The deck will be one .5" sheet of baltic birch and I'll be using 2" washers in 6 places to hold it into the frame. So I guess the lid would be the first point of failure?

I've probably both overthought and overbuilt it as usual.

 

[r2m]

I've probably both overthought and overbuilt it as usual.

Yeah, I have a tendency to do that also. Since I don't have a decent FEA (finite element analysis) software, SolidWorks only has a rudimentary package, it's all built with a "gut" feel.

 

[Cold Iron]

Finally getting back to finishing this up. Got the second drawer built and assembled the second side of the frame. I think all I have left is to build the two-drawer top deck and drawer faces and finish it out. A sleeping platform and side wings after that.



@Cold Iron Here is a closer look at my brackets. I was thinking L-track fasteners at first like you mentioned, but I didn't want to have get the drilling perfect or make huge holes in case I miss since the L-track fasteners are dependent on fixed L-track positions. I also wanted all metal connections from the frame all the way to the seat bolt holes.

Instead, I designed custom L-shaped steel brackets and got them laser cut from Send Cut Send (about $50 I think). I bolted those through the deck bolts and then connected them to the frame using M6 roll-in nuts. I added a couple more m6 screws and T-nuts under the platform deck at the rear for extra stability since my rear brackets deflected a bit with the drawer all the way out and weight on it. 8 total brackets, one through each platform bolt position (3rd row seat mounting points)

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I’ll post my bracket design files as soon as I have a chance to double check them. Anyone who’s interested can get their own set from sendcutsend.com.

Wow that is turning out awesome! Looks great and solid might be an understatement. And thanks for the link to Online Laser Cutting and Waterjet Cutting Service - https://sendcutsend.com/

I will not be using drawers for mine, I will use the bottom platform for heavy loads. But want an easy to remove top platform above it with open storage under it for large odd sized storage. Such as Zero gravity camping chair, camping table, shotguns, etc. But up to 150 pounds on top with dogs and crates at times.

My thought was to use the L-TRACK DOUBLE LUG THREADED STUD FITTINGS

In the L Track as you said will have to plan for adjustment and placement when cutting the L track. And then use the 10 Series 1″ Floor Mount Base Angle to attach to the 3/8" L Track stud.

I don't plan on bottom horizonal pieces instead using the existing L Track. So will have just the vertical legs, 7 of them will not have center legs except for the very back. Which means a LONG span without support in the front. And a double framed top piece of half inch Baltic on top. Somewhat along the lines of this

With some changes but basically the same idea. With 3rd row seats removed of course. And D Ring attachments in the T track on top for lashing down crates and other things.

Was going to use series 10 but with the deflection your drawers are causing wonder if I shouldn't step up to series 15. Thoughts?

And yes after more than 50 years of building things this will be my first attempt at NOT overbuilding LOL. But still want to get it right the first time, and safely.

I keep going back to your fill in pieces with ABS plastic, that was another amazing job by you. Hope the Chuckit for the dog has found a good new home

 

[jakemccurdy]

@Cold Iron yeah. That could work well (the l-track lugs). Id still be worried about have very little adjustment on the bracket to frame connections but you probably measure more accurately than me : )

I feel great about the strength of my 10 series and glad I didn’t go with anything bigger. I just wish they made more metric stuff for 10 series. I had to resort to imperial on my slider t-nuts because I couldn’t find a m6 roll in with set screws. No gripes on strength through and I only used one sheet of .5” baltic and no frame for the top. I also have a set of center supports though and I only weigh 150#. Feels solid as a rock when I sit up there.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Moving right along. Blazer likes the new deck. Thought he’d be timid since its 10” higher than his normal perch but all it took was one Scooby snack to retrain him.

Next up is drawer faces and a sleeper. Anyone know why everyone uses piano hinges for sleepers? I’m thinking lift off gate hinges so I only take the sleeper when I need it.

Building this has been a long road but so excited about the added functionality. If I didn’t have to build and iterate, measure and wait for parts it would probably still take 3-4 days to build all this. If you have a cabinet maker build the boxes that would save a day. I just found out cabinets.com builds boxes like these for $150 each. Totally worth outsourcing that part but glad I did my own since it gave me a chance to learn how to use a router table from with my dad.

Going to need a shorter fridge and a fridge slide as well. Don’t get used to all that extra space, Blazer.

 

[r2m]

Moving right along. Blazer likes the new deck. Thought he’d be timid since its 10” higher than his normal perch but all it took was one Scooby snack to retrain him.

Next up is drawer faces and a sleeper. Anyone know why everyone uses piano hinges for sleepers? I’m thinking lift off gate hinges so I only take the sleeper when I need it.

Building this has been a long road but so excited about the added functionality. If I didn’t have to build and iterate, measure and wait for parts it would probably still take 3-4 days to build all this. If you have a cabinet maker build the boxes that would save a day. I just found out cabinets.com builds boxes like these for $150 each. Totally worth outsourcing that part but glad I did my own since it gave me a chance to learn how to use a router table from with my dad.

Going to need a shorter fridge and a fridge slide as well. Don’t get used to all that extra space, Blazer.

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Blazer may like the added height for viewing out the window when lying down.