Open Source GX460 Drawer System (DIY) (8 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thx! We’re actually thinking a new shorter fridge is in the cards. Once we get the slide out kitchen built we’d have to get a step ladder to forage.
I'm very much running into the same issue. Considering folding one of the 2nd row seats and adding a removable platform extension so I can slide the fridge out the side door rather than the rear. Looking forward to seeing how yours evolves.
 
Thx! We’re actually thinking a new shorter fridge is in the cards. Once we get the slide out kitchen built we’d have to get a step ladder to forage.
I am kind of in the same boat, but without the option of a slide out tray. I purchased a massive fridge (Amazon product ASIN B002W8GV8S) for week long outings to compensate for a huge cooler we used to use. I can only open it a just enough to peek in and grab what I want. Can't open the lid much more than 35°. I didn't really take into consideration that with a fridge you don't need ice! Hence one saves quite a bit of space (25%??) not having to load up with ice. After having it for about 5 years, I've only used it once and even then it wasn't completely full.
At the same time I also purchased a much smaller fridge for weekends and over nighters, etc. (Amazon product ASIN B075R1LH8D) This little fridge is the bomb! We take it almost everywhere. I drilled a hole on each side through the handle (the handle we not hoops) so I could clip on a carabiner and just use the rear seat belt to secure it. This is our go-to fridge.
So we're just getting ready for a 7 day trip deep in the Sierra's with all the family, and am not sure which we're going to take yet. If possible I'd just assume take the smaller one, but if I'm having to haul some of my daughters family food, we may just use the large one.
 
I'm very much running into the same issue. Considering folding one of the 2nd row seats and adding a removable platform extension so I can slide the fridge out the side door rather than the rear. Looking forward to seeing how yours evolves.
Yeah, I have the 40 out of the 2nd row right now bit I think I want tool storage there. Im thinking of just doing a low pro slide out with kitchen like AirDown gear up. Sliding forward is a novel approach. Haven't seen that yet but seems like it could work well.

If you leave a seat out you might want to look at one of these - Airbag Simulator/Emulator for Toyota & Lexus - Brad's Hacks - https://bradshacks.com/product/airbag-simulator/

Airbag dongles. No wiring up your own resistors. He 3d prints the seat side of the connector and inserts the proper resistor to kill the dash light. $30 and zero minutes instead of $15 in parts and an hour of assembling and soldering! Going to make a separate post when I get a sec.

IMG_5706.jpeg


IMG_5701.jpeg


IMG_5698.jpeg
 
The eternal struggle of making what you have work, or scrapping it for another solution.

I got a good deal on Anker's Everfrost fridge, which solved my power issue as it has an integrated battery (no need for house battery or external lipo battery pack). Problem is it's too tall and I can't open it much with my mesh roof net. Sliding out the back is inconvenient with my kitchen drawer setup. That's on the passenger side to use the back door as a wind break (Sheptastic 2015 GX460 Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sheptastic-2015-gx460-build.1282907/post-14491102). I wouldn't be able to slide the fridge out on that side with the kitchen set up, so that only leaves the driver side, which could work. With a slide, accommodating the door and rear opening contours, it takes up a lot of space that's used by the dogs. I have the ADGU platform and drawers, but not their sleeping platform. What I was considering is extending the platform on the driver side (like the sleeping platform) over the folded 2nd row seat and using a side-mounted fridge slide to pull it out the rear side door. It'd all be removable, so I'd could use the 2nd row seats when we weren't camping. This is a bit of work, and I don't know how it'll turn out.

Another option would be to sell the Anker fridge and replace it with something like the smaller Alpicool that @r2m has and an external lipo battery pack. I think that'd fit in the back and I'd be able to get into it without needing a slide. It'd still pull double duty as a (slightly less portable) cooler solution, or be able to be used at home in a power outage. The lipo battery pack would also give me some additional flexibility, but total cost is likely higher than I paid for the Anker. This is seeming like a more practical solution. Just need to get over the mental block of going in a different direction.
 
Yeah, I have the 40 out of the 2nd row right now bit I think I want tool storage there. Im thinking of just doing a low pro slide out with kitchen like AirDown gear up. Sliding forward is a novel approach. Haven't seen that yet but seems like it could work well.

If you leave a seat out you might want to look at one of these - Airbag Simulator/Emulator for Toyota & Lexus - Brad's Hacks - https://bradshacks.com/product/airbag-simulator/

Airbag dongles. No wiring up your own resistors. He 3d prints the seat side of the connector and inserts the proper resistor to kill the dash light. $30 and zero minutes instead of $15 in parts and an hour of assembling and soldering! Going to make a separate post when I get a sec.



View attachment 3377766
Awesome to see you doing all of this with 173k on the odometer. Toyota reliability FTW!
 
Yeah, I have the 40 out of the 2nd row right now bit I think I want tool storage there. Im thinking of just doing a low pro slide out with kitchen like AirDown gear up. Sliding forward is a novel approach. Haven't seen that yet but seems like it could work well.

If you leave a seat out you might want to look at one of these - Airbag Simulator/Emulator for Toyota & Lexus - Brad's Hacks - https://bradshacks.com/product/airbag-simulator/

Airbag dongles. No wiring up your own resistors. He 3d prints the seat side of the connector and inserts the proper resistor to kill the dash light. $30 and zero minutes instead of $15 in parts and an hour of assembling and soldering! Going to make a separate post when I get a sec.

View attachment 3377764

View attachment 3377766

View attachment 3377767
Thank you for sharing these!
 
The eternal struggle of making what you have work, or scrapping it for another solution.
Options, options, options. Sounds like we are in the same boat. I've got an eight year old and a dog though instead of two dogs. About the same size...

I hadn't seen the Anker fridges, they look pretty swanky, similar to the ecoflow. Dogs ride on the drawer system? If not, you could consider ADGU's slide out kitchen with low pro fridge slide. Their stuff is beautiful and I'm taking a bit of inspo from there. I'd just do that if I had money to burn. I asked if they wanted to swing a deal on a system for me before I started this because it was the only commercial system I like. Didn't hear back so I'm sure they're selling as many as they can make. At least that's what I told my ego : )

Doubt it would fit but a drop down slide out the passenger door would be great.... but they're a grand...
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m
Platform has been done for months but finally found time to make a video on it:


Great video! Been looking forward to this one. Funny how big the GX seems...until it doesn't anymore. Nice of Past Jake to save a beer for Present Jake.

If you want to get the 2 row garnish to cover the slots for the seatbelts you removed, these are the parts I used for the ecru color:

CAP, ROOF SIDE INNER GARNISH, RIGHT ECRU
Part Number: 6247660011A1
Supersession(s): 62476-60011-A1; 6247660010A1

CAP, ROOF SIDE INNER GARNISH, LEFT ECRU
Part Number: 6247760011A1
Supersession(s): 62477-60011-A1; 6247760010A1

You'd just want to order the gray ones. I believe they're coded "B0" instead of "A1" in the part numbers.
 
Very relatable DIY confessions
It ain't easy being cheap.... but it sure is fun.
If you want to get the 2 row garnish to cover the slots for the seatbelts you removed
I didn't even know those existed. Thanks!
Damn. Can you make me a platform? haha
I barely kept my marriage intact making mine : ) Plans in the YT desc should make it pretty easy though. All you really need is a drill (Probably a drill press to make the brackets yourself), a vice and a circular saw.
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m
Another great video Jake! I don't know why you went to all that hassle to remove the seatbelts though. I just unbolted them from the floor and tucked the buckle through the upper slots and left them behind there in a zip-tied bundle. They don't rattle back there, so out of sight out of mind.
 
It ain't easy being cheap.... but it sure is fun.

I barely kept my marriage intact making mine : ) Plans in the YT desc should make it pretty easy though. All you really need is a drill (Probably a drill press to make the brackets yourself), a vice and a circular saw.
Yeah, being cheap is fun, but boy... Does it take LOT of time!

You didn't need any bailing wire or duct tape??? 😝

Also, the expression on your face for the video is the same as your bear caricature! Ha-ha!
 
Just watched the video and you've got yourself another wiener of a video! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
This is probably one of your best DIY shows.
A couple Questions:
  1. How much space is under the birch deck, between the physical floor of the vehicle and the bottom of your birch deck? I'm leaning more and more to doing your type of seat delete, but I'd like to relocate my 3k inverter in that space between underneath. It's about 4 inches high.
  2. With all the added sound deadening, is it noticeable quieter?
 
@r2m thx! Much appropriated.
How much space is under the birch deck,
Only about 1.5”. Im planning on using that for electrical and possibly water routing. You wouldn’t want to put the inverter there due to heat build up I wouldn’t think. I would look at putting that on the back of the drawer frame. Since the seats lean back you’ll have a triangle of space back there. Might fit it you have a skinny one. Otherwise might be tough.

With all the added sound deadening, is it noticeable quieter?

No, but remember, I took out two seats which were cutting way more sound and heat transfer than the sound deadening and radiant barrier. They have as much closed cell foam as an ice chest. It was mor of a “since I pulled all this s*** out I might as well” sort of play. Did the same thing in a door when I replaced a handle a fee weeks ago. I plan on doing it to the whole car opportunistically as I do other projects / repairs that require panel removal. I think the roof would be the most impactful but wholly s***, thats a project. Especially if you have rear ac like I do.
 
Here's how the frame is shaping up:


Ordered up brackets for the drawer system from SendCutSend.com. Wholly s***, that would have been WAAAAAAAAAY faster and easier than the way I did it, even with Kan the machinist's help. You should be able to take the DXF file Kan made for me and upload it to send cut send and get a set of front brackets for about $30-50.

I designed and ordered 8 steel brackets for the drawer / kitchen chassis in an afternoon. They'll be here in about 10 days powder coated for $60 total.

Now I just need to order some heavy sliders and wait for Thanksgiving so my dad can help me build the box. Progress! Planing on a slide out kitchen similar to ADGU.... still trying to figure out where the 70LB dog is going to go.... I took the 40 seat out and may make him a little platform there with a chest tether so he doesn't kill us in a roll over.

Any of you guys with drawer systems rocking a kennel? I could put it above the drawer but I'm afraid it will be a pain to get him to jump in and he'll be rocked all over the place on the trail sitting that high.
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m
Brackets installed. Send Cut Send rocks. $60 for perfect powder coated executions of 8 steel brackets from my design files in less than 2 weeks. Should have done that for the platform brackets. I’ll add the design files to my next video for this and the platform brackets so anyone wanting to go this route can just order a set from sendcutsend.com and avoid having to go to a machine shop like I did for the platform.

Anyone got advice on the best locking slides? I’m a bit worried about going amazon but looks like LOTS of builders are so maybe I’m over thinking it? I want to do 500# lock out and I need 34”. Looks like Vevor and Aolisheng are popular.

IMG_6934.jpeg


IMG_6935.jpeg


IMG_6939.jpeg


IMG_6943.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Looking pretty good! I don't know Jake, you may be giving up your YourTube income to be a fabricator!! 😝
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom