Open Source GX460 Drawer System (DIY) (1 Viewer)

[Hiluxforever]

You would need to distribute that force to the sides with something that can support the weight to the edges and then something under it at the edges. Like a beam sitting on posts.

 

[Littlehouse]

You would need to distribute that force to the sides with something that can support the weight to the edges and then something under it at the edges. Like a beam sitting on posts.

Wouldn’t the two horizontal supports in red at the back and the two additional in the front accomplish this?

Top down looking through the plywood with my amazing drawing skills.

 

[Hiluxforever]

As long as they were on top, with their legs underneath, the principle would be there, then it's just a matter of it meeting the load requirements.

 

[WTITW]

I wonder if you could lose the 3 verticals in the center and still maintain solid carrying capacity on top.

Thanks for the build compliment! I think you would be fine losing the center support rail and verticals if you did as @Hiluxforever suggested and added a crossbar to create a post and lintel frame. If you use a double cam counterbore setup on all your extrusions, like I did, you should be able to park a small aircraft on top of the frame. You might even be able to get away without the cross supports if you used 3/4 baltic birch. I think extruded lintel cross bars with 1/2" birch would be stronger and lighter, though. Good luck!

 

[Cold Iron]

Wouldn’t the two horizontal supports in red at the back and the two additional in the front accomplish this?
View attachment 3781544
Top down looking through the plywood with my amazing drawing skills.
View attachment 3781550

I had the same idea, exactly. Drawers would just get in my way. Bottom platform was totally based on Jakes and even have the L track and L brackets. For the 1/2" sandwich on top between the tracks was going to use tractor flooring mat (1/2") that I have left over from another project. But in reality I have no way to store the 3rd row seats without mice having a field day with them. Like they did with my Taco jump seats when I pulled them for the dog platform.

Not sure where you are at but if close to me I would make you a hell of a deal for some of the materials you will need LOL.

For the plywood in between the horizontal supports on top I was going to use plates for both the 80/20 and screwed into the plywood. It would add additional support across the spans. Normally use lip edging for span support, 1x2's most often. But in this case the plates in the right place would do the same.

Corner plates

And half way down the sides T flat plates

Center bar a cross plate to support both side in the middle

With 1/2" baltic on top of them that leaves another 1/2" to the top of the rails. I bought some tractor upholstery in 1/2" to fill that gap. And dyed it this summer to match the interior. Along with some 1/4" that I dyed and will use for what I ended up doing.

For my needs really don't need to pull the seats for the additional ~3.5" clearance. And wanted something that is easily removable without a struggle. I used a half shelf in my Taco for sleeping, I really want the additional overhead and instead of a platform below put it above me, an old mountain climbers trick when at the approach. Works for me as well, depth equal to inseam length.

I spent 20 years sleeping on coffin racks on ships. But appreciate the additional head clearance. Especially trying to change clothes.

Interested in what you come up with!

 

[Littlehouse]

I had the same idea, exactly. Drawers would just get in my way. Bottom platform was totally based on Jakes and even have the L track and L brackets. For the 1/2" sandwich on top between the tracks was going to use tractor flooring mat (1/2") that I have left over from another project. But in reality I have no way to store the 3rd row seats without mice having a field day with them. Like they did with my Taco jump seats when I pulled them for the dog platform.

Not sure where you are at but if close to me I would make you a hell of a deal for some of the materials you will need LOL.

For the plywood in between the horizontal supports on top I was going to use plates for both the 80/20 and screwed into the plywood. It would add additional support across the spans. Normally use lip edging for span support, 1x2's most often. But in this case the plates in the right place would do the same.

Corner plates

And half way down the sides T flat plates

Center bar a cross plate to support both side in the middle

With 1/2" baltic on top of them that leaves another 1/2" to the top of the rails. I bought some tractor upholstery in 1/2" to fill that gap. And dyed it this summer to match the interior. Along with some 1/4" that I dyed and will use for what I ended up doing.

For my needs really don't need to pull the seats for the additional ~3.5" clearance. And wanted something that is easily removable without a struggle. I used a half shelf in my Taco for sleeping, I really want the additional overhead and instead of a platform below put it above me, an old mountain climbers trick when at the approach. Works for me as well, depth equal to inseam length.

I spent 20 years sleeping on coffin racks on ships. But appreciate the additional head clearance. Especially trying to change clothes.

Interested in what you come up with!

I’m in So Cal. I’m having OverlanderWoodWorks build the third row delete similar to Jakes and then I’ll start on this project.

 

[Littlehouse]

Alright @WTITW I have a wrinkle for you. The 3rd row delete loosely based on your design is in, but I only have 8.5” to work with between the top on the kennel and the lowest part of the door opening. Is there a way to flush mount the 1/2” birch between the 8020? “ The two Xs below” If I put the 1/2 birch on top I have to decrease the height of the opening which limits the bins I can use. 7” vs. 7.5”.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Alright @WTITW I have a wrinkle for you. The 3rd row delete loosely based on your design is in, but I only have 8.5” to work with between the top on the kennel and the lowest part of the door opening. Is there a way to flush mount the 1/2” birch between the 8020? “ The two Xs below” If I put the 1/2 birch on top I have to decrease the height of the opening which limits the bins I can use. 7” vs. 7.5”.
View attachment 3820534
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There is a support that runs from the drivers to passenger side at approx 30" back from the door threshold. If you hold them sheet shy of that you should be able to drop it about 1/2".

 

[Hiluxforever]

pictured here with carpet over it

 

[WTITW]

@Littlehouse what if you just skipped the deck and put cross bars in around the kennel permitter? You could do a deck when the kennels are out.

 

[WTITW]

If you put a cross bars on the leading edge like I did when I was prototyping you’ll know how high you can stack stuff above the drawer perimeter and still have it close.

 

[Littlehouse]

@Littlehouse what if you just skipped the deck and put cross bars in around the kennel permitter? You could do a deck when the kennels are out.

That’s a solid idea, but I really don’t want to store something separately. GX basecamp seems to have figured it out but I’m not sure what these pieces are.

 

[Littlehouse]

Hmm my sleuthing is paying off. Corner bracket with a spacer?

 

[WTITW]

@Littlehouse those look like 1010 corner brackets. Not a super strong way to attach the deck IMO since the boards are secured so close to their edge but it should be fine as long as you don’t roll it ; ) if you strap the kennels to the frame over the boards it would be safer. Another option if you haven’t built drawers yet (or left some room) would be to cut down the verticals. You can cut them with a diablo blade. If you’re not using the center bore tapped to secure the deck with a screw, you won’t even have to retap them. Thats a bit of a pain but I did it on a couple left overs I cut down for my 2nd row 40 delete platform.

(CB-010-E) 10 Series 4 Hole Inside Corner Bracket | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4113, T-SLOTS #653050, Frame-World #11-4

www.tnutz.com

 

[WTITW]

Looks like 4-hole corner brackets on one side and hinges for tilt up on the other. Its a really cool design being able to flip up the deck, but might get messy in an accident. Maybe he’s got a really strong latching system going on. Also - I overthink stuff and Im no engineer.

(HI-010) Steel Black Powder-Coat Heavy-Duty Hinge Kit (SMALL) | TNUTZ

Hinges are 100% equivalent to 80/20 #12256

www.tnutz.com

 

[r2m]

@Littlehouse those look like 1010 corner brackets. Not a super strong way to attach the deck IMO since the boards are secured so close to their edge but it should be fine as long as you don’t roll it ; ) if you strap the kennels to the frame over the boards it would be safer. Another option if you haven’t built drawers yet (or left some room) would be to cut down the verticals. You can cut them with a diablo blade. If you’re not using the center bore tapped to secure the deck with a screw, you won’t even have to retap them. Thats a bit of a pain but I did it on a couple left overs I cut down for my 2nd row 40 delete platform.

(CB-010-E) 10 Series 4 Hole Inside Corner Bracket | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4113, T-SLOTS #653050, Frame-World #11-4

www.tnutz.com

You could also use some "L" brackets or get some 1/16" x 1", cut and bend at a right angle (note, the size of the material and length is whatever you can fabricate). This would cheap and easy. With the shelf being at the top of your frame, don't worry about strength unless you piling on lead weights. For 7.5" of height, there isn't anything too heavy you can't put up there.

 

[Cold Iron]

Hmm my sleuthing is paying off. Corner bracket with a spacer?
View attachment 3820723

Those are panel retainers from my notes:
2497-Black 10 Series Single Arm Wide Panel Retainer need nuts too

Can they be flipped? Depth
2497-Black - https://8020.net/2497-black.html
$11.51 x 10

IIRC was thinking of putting them on the bottom with the lip on top to support the plywood why I asked myself if they can be flipped. Then switched gears to the corner plates that I listed in a couple of posts above. 8020 has more of a selection of the plates than Tnutz again from my notes

Plates
4x 4” corner plates drill holes for wood $14.94
4152-Black - https://8020.net/4152-black.html

2x 4” T plate side extension plates $15.53
4112-Black - https://8020.net/4112-black.html
2x Center end plates $15.53
4112-Black - https://8020.net/4112-black.html

1x 4” Center plate
https://8020.net/4135-black.html $19.60
https://8020.net/4160-black.html $25.02

5 hole T joining plate for center cross piece
(JP-010-J-BLACK) 10 Series BLACK 5 Hole TEE Joining Plate | TNUTZ - https://www.tnutz.com/product/jp-010-j-black/

You could leave out the cross member and use just the corner plates and then drill into bottom of your dog carrier. It would be extremely solid. Make the frame part of it and when you remove the kennel the frame would go with it. Would require you to build a second platform to use without the kennel if that is what you are looking for. And not sure if you have enough room on the sides between the wheel wells looks like a tight fit as is.

I know that you said that you didn't want to store separately but in my experience modularity gives a lot more flexibility in meeting needs. If you have the storage space. I spent a couple of nights looking at different size storage containers there are quite a few out there, half an inch lower container would also get you there. But of course less storage capacity.

Decided to run without a platform for awhile to see what I really needed. And no way was I going to give up my attic rack for additional height I use it too much. I can sit 2 Ruff Tough crates side by side but for the 6 weeks that I spend in the North Woods only have one dog on the ground at a time. For MY situation not sure I am going to pull the 3rd row as there really isn't a need to. And can see out the back perfectly between the bottom of the attic rack and top of the crate

For most of the year I use the pop out glass in the hatch when possible. Especially the 5 months when everything is covered in snow the barn door is real PITA. So built a platform as a prototype that I can just open the hatch and set groceries, shooting gear, snow brush etc. without messing with the door. With adjustable legs to find the right height for me, not a crate. And the right depth too deep is too far of a reach turns out 20" deep and legs of 10" height to the bottom of the platform works best at least so far. And replaced the Lexus liner with a Weathertech with a taller lip to protect from water and snow melt. And any other liquids.

Just left over scrap lumber from the garage for now as a prototype. It is easy enough to remove to make room for the dog crates when we do training or go for a ride.

You could also use some "L" brackets or get some 1/16" x 1", cut and bend at a right angle (note, the size of the material and length is whatever you can fabricate). This would cheap and easy. With the shelf being at the top of your frame, don't worry about strength unless you piling on lead weights. For 7.5" of height, there isn't anything too heavy you can't put up there.

Like half a ton, actually 1,150 pounds, of 6% antimony alloy lead shot for reloading shotgun shells. Everything else comes out of the back.

That will last me 2 years on average and was a year ago. So in another year will be doing the same once again.

 

[Littlehouse]

@Littlehouse what if you just skipped the deck and put cross bars in around the kennel permitter? You could do a deck when the kennels are out.

After a bit of thought, I think I’m going to go this route. No need for a deck as the platform is only for the kennel. I’ll use the strips you found as a barrier between the 8020 and the kennel to stop noise. It should be pretty light and strong with the design above.

 

[Littlehouse]

Any flaws here? I can’t find the end caps at this time

 

[r2m]

Any flaws here? I can’t find the end caps at this time
View attachment 3822164View attachment 3822165

Try McMaster-Carr: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/