Ok to buy? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Threads
15
Messages
147
Location
Westchester, NY
New here and new to Toyota in general. Fascinated with the LC heritage so I've been searching and searching for an affordable deal. Found one, local Toyota dealer who would give my trade vehicle a good price and they have the cheapest 2013 LC, black on black, two owners and clean Carfax, 80k miles.

I just need to make sure this frame rust is manageable. I know the frame is double box frame, but if someone here could comment on the focal thick rust, I'd appreciate it!

Also, I don't think the timing belt has been changed, so I should prepare for one 10k miles down the road right?
GetFileAttachment
 
No need to change the timing belt since it doesn’t have one. :)

I’ll let rusty area folk answer rust concerns...

You didn’t mention a price on the vehicle... $?
 
Read the FAQ and search button. Theres barely any rust on that Cruiser. I've seen 1 year old pickup trucks with that much rust. Its just surface.
 
Markuson, thanks!! Price is $41570 ish, at 80k miles this is the lowest, with clear carfax, otherwise there's got to be damage reported. Car condition is good except those rust spots. Car has been at this dealer for over five months so I think it's at a weird pricing point (this is Greenwich CT I'm talking about, where people easily can afford a new one), or, other buyers know there's something criticall off putting.

NO TIMING BELT???
 
If the rust is bothering you then you can have it removed and repainted. Or do it yourself.

Or just import a vehicle from a rust less area.
 
At that price, you should be able to find quite a few with comparable miles/price... If the rust is bothering you, keep looking. I just did a search and found quite a few on the East coast and elsewhere that are right in that range.

As others have mentioned...I would encourage you to be open to other regions. Texas, Arixoba and especially Souther California are great places to find similar, but rust-free LCs.
 
$15k more and you can have redesigned 16LC with much less miles. Something to consider. As well definitely would bring one from the south. As an example I live in NC and you can have one completely rust free which had a good life. I stay away from N and NE cars which were exposed to salt and bad roads.
 
I bought my '15 LC in Greenwich CT, from the BMW dealer right across the street from the McLaren dealership. That place is crazy.

Mine only had 40K miles, and much less corrosion than that. If you decide to take a look at it, make sure to check the KDSS bleeder screws, search here about them. Take a 5 mm hex drive on a ratchet and some Rust Buster.
 
I wouldn't stress about it, like others said you can remove it yourself. That's surface. Now, if the body had it.... What about more pics, as in interior and exterior? Black on black....CLASSY!!
 
thanks everybody. body seems fine, looked closely at the wheel well/running board corners, door edges, upper liftgate latch (I tihnk ever since they changed to button release, the upper liftgate release area no longer rust as easily, unlike the 80 and 100 series). Interior is good, no issues about it, CD player works, mirror folding works, center console cooler works, haven't tested the radar cruise control. The salesman is a bit of pain, he keeps pressuring before even agree to test drive...
 
Just read this on the KDSS/side lean thread very helpful, again, thanks Markuson. I'll try to take a look today, if that guy allows me to crawl under....

"Murkuson is exactly correct. If you want to fix that lean park on a flat surface, reach up there with a 5mm hex drive and release those nuts 2.5-3 turns (NO MORE!!!) jump on the running boards and give it a good shake. Close the valves, done.

Since you're in RI, check for rust. If you're not sure post a picture here and we'll tell you how to proceed. don't try and brake them free with force if they're rusted."
 
Just went under the truck, so glad I did it. The two screws, other bolts & be screws around that area (control arm connections?) all rusted into crumbles. I was able to brake the flakes. I doubt anyone can turn them. I’m gonna skip this time & aim at a newer GX460. I think the GX are built equally strong & to aircraft spec.

B8EC7BF0-4BFE-43B8-A1ED-74EA5DCE5F26.jpeg


148462CE-D8A3-404F-B28C-A8031585B9B4.jpeg
 
Just went under the truck, so glad I did it. The two screws, other bolts & be screws around that area (control arm connections?) all rusted into crumbles. I was able to brake the flakes. I doubt anyone can turn them. I’m gonna skip this time & aim at a newer GX460. I think the GX are built equally strong & to aircraft spec.

View attachment 1783971

View attachment 1783972

Ya, honestly the first words of my response SHOULD have been to check KadSS screws.

Agree.
That’s a deal breaker right there...
Glad you caught that.
 
I’m gonna skip this time & aim at a newer GX460. I think the GX are built equally strong & to aircraft spec.

Huh? Built to aircraft spec? The GX isn’t a bad vehicle, but the 200 is far superior in virtually every objective way.
 
Wow. The rust on my 2013 is tiny in comparison, and Chicago salts the roads like McDonalds salts their fries. Fluid Film FTW
 
Search for my thread on surface rust on my 2008 LC. I had the underbody wire brushed and coated with 3M primer+ rubberized coating.
The KDSS screws look pretty s***ty IMO. I would try to turn it at the dealer before u buy to see if it’s shut. If not, just wire brush, paint and u good.
On my phone so finding the thread and posting it here is a pain lol.
 
Crawl under the GX...then crawl under an LC. No comparison.

It’s like small truck vs. tank.

Essentially the GX is a souped up, blinged out 4Runner.

It’s a solid vehicle, but it’s no LC...no matter what it may be called in Australia.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom