Not sure who that was but it's not even remotely close to comparable to what's used in our aircraft or munitions wiring.
Ok to buy?
- Thread starter Reg Wang
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Not sure who that was but it's not even remotely close to comparable to what's used in our aircraft or munitions wiring.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Wondering if it was an some school aircraft guy who was just impressed with how the new-fangled Lexus wires stuck him as being neatly tucked out of sight like the DC3’s were.
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- #43
picking up car from my mechanic today (never trusted dealership's pre-owned/CPO). Only remaining thing is the AHC fluid, my guy is just not familiar with it and of course, Lexus told him not to touch it unless it's broke. So, now I need to research a Land Cruiser/Lexus specialist in my area. I live in Rye, NY (Westchester County), any ideas?
The AHC fluid change is super easy. True fact my 12 year old 10 year old did it themselves last week as part of the 60k service on my 13 LX with only my verbal guidance. Took less them less than 2 hours. Very similar process to bleeding breaks.
There it a thread AHC basics that spells out the procedure.
The only thing I would add to what is mentioned on that thread is remove the spare tire and put a flashlight behind the AHC fluid tank so you can better see the level.
There it a thread AHC basics that spells out the procedure.
The only thing I would add to what is mentioned on that thread is remove the spare tire and put a flashlight behind the AHC fluid tank so you can better see the level.
Used Paddo’s method? Did you use a simple quart bottle pump to get the fluid in the reservoir?
Gonna do mine in 2 weeks. Where did you get your AHC fluid?
LexusPartsNow shipped mine to Alaska today. $80 shipped for 4 bottles.
Yep used the Prado method and the kids did it at home. Last time (at 30k)I used a drive on lift on base and it was slightly easier lifted up.
So vacuumed the reservoir first and filled with new fluid. Then with height N and car off started with L front bleeder and bled until it lowered to bump stops then started the car and let it level, turned off car fill fluid as needed had to do again until I hit clean fluid. Then same process for R front, L rear, R Rear. With each bleeder you will take less fluid off before clean comes out. Do not let the level go below the low mark and most of the time I filled it above high before I moved to the next bleeder filling after each bleed.
I used aquarium tubing and a soda bottle on the bleeders. And used a compressor driven break fluid vaccume to empty the reservoir and a quart bottle pump to replace the fluid. It took 4L of fluid that I got from Kendall Lexus for just over $100. Next time at 90k I’ll get 5L as I cut it really close with 4L and to run out of fluid would be not good since it isn’t available locally.
So vacuumed the reservoir first and filled with new fluid. Then with height N and car off started with L front bleeder and bled until it lowered to bump stops then started the car and let it level, turned off car fill fluid as needed had to do again until I hit clean fluid. Then same process for R front, L rear, R Rear. With each bleeder you will take less fluid off before clean comes out. Do not let the level go below the low mark and most of the time I filled it above high before I moved to the next bleeder filling after each bleed.
I used aquarium tubing and a soda bottle on the bleeders. And used a compressor driven break fluid vaccume to empty the reservoir and a quart bottle pump to replace the fluid. It took 4L of fluid that I got from Kendall Lexus for just over $100. Next time at 90k I’ll get 5L as I cut it really close with 4L and to run out of fluid would be not good since it isn’t available locally.
Thank you very much! Really appreciate it.
I’ll be doing it for the first time at 75k!
I hope my fluid isn’t too bad....
I’ll be doing it for the first time at 75k!
I hope my fluid isn’t too bad....
How has your fluid looked? You think 75k is pushing it on a street driven truck?
I’ve only ever done my fluid so don’t really have anything to compare it to. I would say it’s a good thing you are doing the change. And it’s not all that much over the 60k. I would also guess much like break fluid the age of the fluid matters close to as much as miles. To me the AHC fluid if I had to guess is a mineral based fluid similar to break fluid or Crisco.
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- #51
will upload photos during lunch today, spent last night under the truck spraying Corroseal, there were deep, small component rusts that i did not see (the frame was actually good, but the books and crany not). Headlamp still foggy, need to sand and polish.
Anyone know why the front brakes are so small on such a heavy truck? i really have to sink the brake pedal down to stop the car (and it's new pair of rotors and good pads).
Anyone know why the front brakes are so small on such a heavy truck? i really have to sink the brake pedal down to stop the car (and it's new pair of rotors and good pads).
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- #52
i wish the LC/LX can have the braking performance of a F150, I had three F150s and they were amazing to drive/stop.
The 16+ stops materially better than the earlier ones. I'm very impressed actually with how it stops with 34" Ridge Grapplers.
supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
It's all relative. I'm coming from an 80 series and my LX stops like a dream compared to that.
I'm not sure what to make of that 2nd thread lol. OP...err TROLL... needing new brake pads every 3,600 miles??!? I bought my LX570 at 85k miles, driven it for almost 15k miles since, and the truck had new pads installed at ~60k miles from prior owner. Aside from an intermittent brake squeal upon stop, I have plenty of brake left.
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- #58
Photos at last. Been under it more than In it. I experimented with fluid film Corroseal and POR. Polished yellow headlight
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- #59
Botched ceramic coating job, need to correct it later with CarPro essence.
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- #60
Lastly, the inner side of the rear fender lip. Looks like bare metal to me, ideas?
