Looking at the construction of that I’d be shocked if DIY, agree perhaps nothing more than a guard though?
Oink Oink (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mn12
- Start date
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Maybe heat shield from the exhaust pipe right there.
- Thread starter
- #184
Update: It’s been a while since last post.
Truck is daily driver and doing great, although miss AC some days.
I’ve had quite the whirlwind of issues with rear brakes.
Replaced cylinders on passenger side, no issues.
Moved to driver’s side and could not get brakes to bleed, Checked everything. Enlisted mechanic friend and we still could not get good pedal.
Ordered new master cylinder. Bench bled, installed, still have problems.
Talked through the process…and yup, didn’t have cylinders in the correct location.
Corrected location. Still could not get good pedal.
Checked everything over and over and over and bled brakes to no end.
Finally as last resort, put on the old master cylinder = money.
Supplier was kind enough to let me return the new one.
Now back in action as daily driver and of course another opportunity.
Latest to correct is some kind of driveline slop. Too much play in rear drive shaft at transfer case and 3rd member.
Acceleration and deceleration. Truck is not liking going 40 mph, most other speeds are good.
Reminds me of bad driveshaft joints or pinion issue.
Thoughts on what it could be, let me know.
The fun continues.
Truck is daily driver and doing great, although miss AC some days.
I’ve had quite the whirlwind of issues with rear brakes.
Replaced cylinders on passenger side, no issues.
Moved to driver’s side and could not get brakes to bleed, Checked everything. Enlisted mechanic friend and we still could not get good pedal.
Ordered new master cylinder. Bench bled, installed, still have problems.
Talked through the process…and yup, didn’t have cylinders in the correct location.
Corrected location. Still could not get good pedal.
Checked everything over and over and over and bled brakes to no end.
Finally as last resort, put on the old master cylinder = money.
Supplier was kind enough to let me return the new one.
Now back in action as daily driver and of course another opportunity.
Latest to correct is some kind of driveline slop. Too much play in rear drive shaft at transfer case and 3rd member.
Acceleration and deceleration. Truck is not liking going 40 mph, most other speeds are good.
Reminds me of bad driveshaft joints or pinion issue.
Thoughts on what it could be, let me know.
The fun continues.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Lay on the ground, grab the driveshaft and try to shake it or make any vertical movement.
If it isn’t a u-joint it could be the slip yoke.
If it isn’t a u-joint it could be the slip yoke.
Just checking, but are the u joints in faze (in line the correct way).
- Thread starter
- #188
Yes, checked that out too.
All was good, then out of the blue just started to act up. Didn’t touch anything with the drivetrain, just rear brakes. Once it started, hasn’t gotten better, hasn’t gotten worse.
When pulling out of gear coasting down a hill = prefect. No vibration at all.
Oddly other gears don’t have the vibration either, probably because they anre under load. Only 4th around 40 mph.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Sounds possibly like a balance issue. Does the driveshaft have weights on it or have any dents in it?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
RUSH55
SILVER Star
There’s going to be some gear lash at the outputs.
Have you dropped any oil out of the transfer case to see if there’s any metal?
If you decide to drain it, clean the bucket you drain it into beforehand so it’s easier to see any metal.
- Thread starter
- #194
Have not recently drained any oil
I removed all oil when I changed the seal, but now that’s leaking again, so something isn’t quite right.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll give it a shot.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Where is it leaking from? Output seal?
- Thread starter
- #196
Yes for one, but there is another leak somewhere.
Nothing major, could drips is all.
Replaced that seal in April last year.
- Thread starter
- #197
Pulled the drain plug quick to check for metal filings.
Was not much on the bolt. Cleaned magnet with white towel and drained onto white bag to see if I could see anything. Not much on bolt and a cloudy spot in the oil.
Also starting to hear noise from clutch.
Without being in gear. Clutch out, just a bit of whine. Push in clutch, it goes away.
Search continues, need to get the FJ on a hoist to see/hear more.
Was not much on the bolt. Cleaned magnet with white towel and drained onto white bag to see if I could see anything. Not much on bolt and a cloudy spot in the oil.
Also starting to hear noise from clutch.
Without being in gear. Clutch out, just a bit of whine. Push in clutch, it goes away.
Search continues, need to get the FJ on a hoist to see/hear more.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
That’s a good sign.
Now that the oil is out you can replace the rear output seal with a dual seal setup. You can get a seal housing from Valley Hybrids or you can take your housing to a local machinist and have them turn it out.
Now that the oil is out you can replace the rear output seal with a dual seal setup. You can get a seal housing from Valley Hybrids or you can take your housing to a local machinist and have them turn it out.
- Thread starter
- #200
Been a while since my last post.
Lots happening with the holidays and hunting season.
With all that behind tried to focus on the 55.
Cold weather had me turn on the heater, then noticed a familiar smell coming from the engine.
Checked it out and the thermostat housing was leaking.
As always, nothing goes as planned.
Went to replace the housing, thermostat and gasket.
Reminder this truck has a GM 350
Gasket = No problem
Thermostat = No problem
Housing = Nobody has one, but can get one in a week. Crazy.
Anyway. One bolt out with ease, the other, no go.
Got to the point of breaking the bolt or stripping it out. So tightened it back up and called my neighbor. 50+ year mechanic and an awesome one at that.
He’s also been chomping at the bit to rebuild the carburetor.
I took the 55 to his shop and he got to experience the glory of POs.
Thermostat stripped a thread. No problem. Re-tap and roll.
Carburetor…rabbit hole.
Pulled off the carb and surprise. Spread bore manifold with regular carb.
Didn’t even line up and the gasket wasn’t sealing in the back.
Out with that carb and he put in a quadrajet. Solved the surging problem I had been battling.
Got the carb on, go to set timing…no timing marks,
He had to find TDC old school. Amazing. Arduous, but very talented.
Once found, remarked the balancer and good to go.
Got that going and heard an exhaust leak by the passenger side manifold and he couldn’t let it be.
Found it, fixed it and put in a steel gasket. Problem solved.
Not only a mechanic but an exhaust genius.
It’s not over yet.
My driver’s door has been sagging since I bought the truck.
When I Iooked at it, I thought the hinge pin needed replaced and that’s what I told him.
He said. Oh OK.
Picked up the truck and he had adjusted both front doors and they are now perfect. Freakin’ amazing.
So now on to winter project number 1.
Replace the beltline and window fuzzies.
Rock Auto Fairchild Part 01484X2 and 14574X2.
So I went to work on the pulling the old ones out.
Was much easier than an expected with my homemade makeshift tool. A knitting needle I altered years and years ago when working on my old Bronco. Worked like a charm.
Started with driver door. Bad idea. I suggest starting with a door you don’t look at every time you get in the truck.
Pulled out the old.
Sprayed everything I could see with surface shield, then cleaned it up.
Where there was a little rust, I used Rust Reformer to help with any future problems.
All in all, everything was pretty clean when I took off the old.
Then it was time to put in the new scraper. Measured, drilled and lined up the pins.
Pushed one in and it bent. Tried another, same deal. No go, so, I remember reading on MUD that you can use adhesive.
Well I just happened to have some left over from when I put on the weather strips.
Gave it a whirl and it worked like magic. I know it’s not the best way or traditional way…but it is way easier. Yes it will be a mess whenever it needs replaced, but so will pulling out all that sound deadener I put in there
Got all but 3 doors done today and I am really happy with the results.
Placed one more order to Rock Auto so I can finish the job and do the tailgate.
Now off to winter project 2. Vapor barrier and seal up the drivers door for good.
Lots happening with the holidays and hunting season.
With all that behind tried to focus on the 55.
Cold weather had me turn on the heater, then noticed a familiar smell coming from the engine.
Checked it out and the thermostat housing was leaking.
As always, nothing goes as planned.
Went to replace the housing, thermostat and gasket.
Reminder this truck has a GM 350
Gasket = No problem
Thermostat = No problem
Housing = Nobody has one, but can get one in a week. Crazy.
Anyway. One bolt out with ease, the other, no go.
Got to the point of breaking the bolt or stripping it out. So tightened it back up and called my neighbor. 50+ year mechanic and an awesome one at that.
He’s also been chomping at the bit to rebuild the carburetor.
I took the 55 to his shop and he got to experience the glory of POs.
Thermostat stripped a thread. No problem. Re-tap and roll.
Carburetor…rabbit hole.
Pulled off the carb and surprise. Spread bore manifold with regular carb.
Didn’t even line up and the gasket wasn’t sealing in the back.
Out with that carb and he put in a quadrajet. Solved the surging problem I had been battling.
Got the carb on, go to set timing…no timing marks,
He had to find TDC old school. Amazing. Arduous, but very talented.
Once found, remarked the balancer and good to go.
Got that going and heard an exhaust leak by the passenger side manifold and he couldn’t let it be.
Found it, fixed it and put in a steel gasket. Problem solved.
Not only a mechanic but an exhaust genius.
It’s not over yet.
My driver’s door has been sagging since I bought the truck.
When I Iooked at it, I thought the hinge pin needed replaced and that’s what I told him.
He said. Oh OK.
Picked up the truck and he had adjusted both front doors and they are now perfect. Freakin’ amazing.
So now on to winter project number 1.
Replace the beltline and window fuzzies.
Rock Auto Fairchild Part 01484X2 and 14574X2.
So I went to work on the pulling the old ones out.
Was much easier than an expected with my homemade makeshift tool. A knitting needle I altered years and years ago when working on my old Bronco. Worked like a charm.
Started with driver door. Bad idea. I suggest starting with a door you don’t look at every time you get in the truck.
Pulled out the old.
Sprayed everything I could see with surface shield, then cleaned it up.
Where there was a little rust, I used Rust Reformer to help with any future problems.
All in all, everything was pretty clean when I took off the old.
Then it was time to put in the new scraper. Measured, drilled and lined up the pins.
Pushed one in and it bent. Tried another, same deal. No go, so, I remember reading on MUD that you can use adhesive.
Well I just happened to have some left over from when I put on the weather strips.
Gave it a whirl and it worked like magic. I know it’s not the best way or traditional way…but it is way easier. Yes it will be a mess whenever it needs replaced, but so will pulling out all that sound deadener I put in there
Got all but 3 doors done today and I am really happy with the results.
Placed one more order to Rock Auto so I can finish the job and do the tailgate.
Now off to winter project 2. Vapor barrier and seal up the drivers door for good.