Oil ratings

[dannymontani]

This question was answered a long time ago last I looked but now I cannot find the thread. I would think it has been discussed again.

I'm looking at old notes I had re the rating of oil in these motors with solid lifters. My notes said never use oil rated SM/SN or higher as you need more zinc or phosphorus. Use SJ/SL or later. What's the word now on what and who to go with. I haven't run my girl and now it's time. Lasts I did a change it was with Shell Rotella.

 

[Spike Strip]

There's a few videos on YT by 'The Motor Oil Geek' that shows the 15w50 M1 has the best wear numbers for flat-tappet engines.

T4 or T5 Rotella is good as is Castrol Classic Car high-zinc 20w50

 

[dannymontani]

There's a few videos on YT by 'The Motor Oil Geek' that shows the 15w50 M1 has the best wear numbers for flat-tappet engines.

T4 or T5 Rotella is good as is Castrol Classic Car high-zinc 20w50

Spike, thanks man. Going into town to see who has them, here in Bozeman Mt. I've been reading up on the newer Valvoline Protect & Restore oil. What have you seen or your thoughts? Seems to me it might NOT be a good thing. I'm going with what you said and can always drain and refill. My 60 has 200mi below 300k as of note.

 

[Spike Strip]

I run the R&P in my Corolla, but it's probably not a good oil for a 2F. Any Walmart should have either the Rotella or Mobil 1. With your mileage, a 50wt is a good idea. The Castrol 20/50 is good if you don't want a full synthetic

 

[dannymontani]

Spike. O'Reilly here had the Rotella T4 for $23. Couldn't turn it down. 15/40 oughta do it here for me. Appreciate the input man. Thanks again.

 

[HemiAlex]

I run Mobil1 from walmart in 15w50 in my 2F, 3FE, and the 3UR in the 200. It works great. All very high mileage engines.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Good timing on this post. Just put a rebuilt 2F in my 60. Used Amsoil break-in 30wt for the cam break in, then Driven GP1 30wt break in oil for the first 100 miles. Now I'm on regular oil and planning to use it from 100 miles to 500 miles and dump it again. I was a Rotella guy with my worn out old motor, but apparently Shell stopped publishing their ZDDP content for Rotella and folks aren't sure if they reduced the levels or what. I decided on VR1 "racing oil" because it advertises high ZDDP and the numbers are available directly from Valvoline (1100 zinc and 1000 phosphorous). Went with 10w30 because it's a new motor and tolerances are probably tighter - oil pressure has been great so far.

I found this chart of ZDDP content by oil, but it was published five years ago. Who knows if it's still accurate or not.

 

[Spike Strip]

I only have about 6K miles on my rebuilt 2F (not driven very much). I've run Rotella T4, Castrol Classic, Royal Purple ... All are fine and will protect well if changed at 1 yr or 3-5K miles, depending on how you drive.

Next oil change will be to M1 15w50 based on 'The Oil Geeks' lab tests.

Mobil now also makes a 'Classic oil' 10w30 with high zinc for pre-1996 vehicles (1300 ppm which is where the old Rotella used to be). I haven't seen any tests on it, though.

Mobil 1™ Classic Car 10W-30

Mobil 1 Classic 10W-30 is a full synthetic motor oil formulated with high zinc for flathead or overhead valve engine designs.

www.mobil.com

 

[CruiserTrash]

I only have about 6K miles on my rebuilt 2F (not driven very much). I've run Rotella T4, Castrol Classic, Royal Purple ... All are fine and will protect well if changed at 1 yr or 3-5K miles, depending on how you drive.

Next oil change will be to M1 15w50 based on 'The Oil Geeks' lab tests.

Mobil now also makes a 'Classic oil' 10w30 with high zinc for pre-1996 vehicles (1300 ppm which is where the old Rotella used to be). I haven't seen any tests on it, though.

Mobil 1™ Classic Car 10W-30

Mobil 1 Classic 10W-30 is a full synthetic motor oil formulated with high zinc for flathead or overhead valve engine designs.

www.mobil.com

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How has your oil pressure been with 20w50 in a relatively fresh motor? I understand in LA you're not concerned about cold starts on frosty mornings, so we'll leave that out.

 

[Spike Strip]

I only have the dummy dash gauge at the moment, I've bought all the stuff for a real gauge but have yet to install but Oil Pressure is up at about 3/4 mark on that gauge. Stays the same no matter what. A new Toyota pump was installed at rebuild.

If I had Denver Winters, I'd certainly run a 10w or 15w or Full