O R I O N (14 Viewers)

[Nottajeep]

Installed my a new VH built orion a few weeks ago with twin sticks.
Drove it 100 miles to the trail and no issues with anything popping out on the highway.

On the trail, the popping out of low started on big hill descents.
As the weekend wheeling continued, the popping out of low got worse.

Highway trip on the way home, the shifter would not even stay in Hi approaching redlights or on flat grades.
Strapped a bungee cord to the shifter in Hi to get home.

During the install, we slightly curved the shifters to easily clear sheet metal on the hump.
So at least, I can rule that out.

Got a call in to Georg to see what the options are.

I enjoyed the gearing on the rocks... Hopefully, we can find a solution.

 

[1MOA]

Anyone see the Instagram post from OTRAMM about the build quality of the shift fork on the Orion they got for a customer?

 

[vfrer]

The shift fork they sent me was junk as well. It had so much slop on the shaft that it would bind up and made it basically impossible to shift. I took my old one and shaved enough material for it to clear the gear and it has been working great.

 

[1MOA]

The shift fork they sent me was junk as well. It had so much slop on the shaft that it would bind up and made it basically impossible to shift. I took my old one and shaved enough material for it to clear the gear and it has been working great.

I don't think they care at all.

 

[archie73]

Drove over the pass(10% grade) Friday and couldn’t keep the transfer case in high range 2wd or 4wd( front driveshaft currently removed) on the way down. Got to work and drained the transfer case as a bit of a check up. Had 1.9qt in the case and a light sheen to the oil. The fill plug had a small amount of shavings and “metal paste”. Around 2500 miles on the Orion unit

Reached for 90wt and couldn’t find any, so I filled it with Librication Engineers 1605 Duotec (non GL4/5). Not wanting to play with the transfer case again in rush hour traffic, I used a bungee cord to hold the shifter in place and had a trouble free drive home.
I get home and removed the bungee cord and coast down a steep 1/2 mile dirt road. The case doesn’t pop out. Drive it some more and same thing. So what’s the difference- slightly more oil(thicker) or the tension on the shifter pulled it all the way in the position?
Also, is this an exceptable oil for the transfer case? It did quiet it some(I think). I believe the manual says it’s supposed to be GL4/5 but that’s to protect hypoid gears and synchros. If I understand the terminology, then the Orion has neither. Please school me if I’m wrong.

 

[peesalot]

More info. on the oil used ? how thick is it ? The paste is normal on the plug magnent, I am interested in trying the thicker oil.

 

[1MOA]

Drove over the pass(10% grade) Friday and couldn’t keep the transfer case in high range 2wd or 4wd( front driveshaft currently removed) on the way down. Got to work and drained the transfer case as a bit of a check up. Had 1.9qt in the case and a light sheen to the oil. The fill plug had a small amount of shavings and “metal paste”. Around 2500 miles on the Orion unit View attachment 2777974Reached for 90wt and couldn’t find any, so I filled it with Librication Engineers 1605 Duotec (non GL4/5). Not wanting to play with the transfer case again in rush hour traffic, I used a bungee cord to hold the shifter in place and had a trouble free drive home.
I get home and removed the bungee cord and coast down a steep 1/2 mile dirt road. The case doesn’t pop out. Drive it some more and same thing. So what’s the difference- slightly more oil(thicker) or the tension on the shifter pulled it all the way in the position?
Also, is this an exceptable oil for the transfer case? It did quiet it some(I think). I believe the manual says it’s supposed to be GL4/5 but that’s to protect hypoid gears and synchros. If I understand the terminology, then the Orion has neither. Please school me if I’m wrong.

The case doesn't but your front and rear output shaft components both have a need for GL/4

 

[archie73]

More info. on the oil used ? how thick is it ? The paste is normal on the plug magnent, I am interested in trying the thicker oil.

So I never could find any more info beyond what I linked in that earlier post. I just swapped the oil out for some Lucas oil. I was under the impression that we didn’t need the gl 4 or 5 rating on the oil since our cases are unsynchronized, but @1MOA posted that the cases still needed it. Rather than chance needing another rebuild, I swapped the oil out.

As to the performance- I can’t say it changed much with the Lubrication Engineer product. Tcase still pops out of gear and shifting seemed the same. Hope that helps.

 

[peesalot]

After a few rebuilds and different oils I am now running standard 90w and it is quiet , little bit of gear whine in low 4th. The pics of silver dust are exactly what I get. I have found that when the rear drive line has spline loosness , slight rattle at deceleration at certain speeds, otherwise not noticable, that loosness under deceleration and the ensuing vibration on the output dont help. I would add that the orion has worked since install, other than the interior bolt coming out and wrecking gears the tcase has worked.

 

[archie73]

I would add that the orion has worked since install, other than the interior bolt coming out and wrecking gears the tcase has worked.

Oddly enough, that’s why I got the Orion- one of the interior mounting bolts came out and wrecked the oem case. I checked when I did the oil change and they’re still torqued.

Over all I’m happy with mine. The popping out of gear is not awesome, but the 4:1 couples with the SM465 sure is nice. Bungee cords to the rescue…

 

[peesalot]

I made a retainer so it wouldn't happen again, it almost blew out the bottom of the iron case and took out a bunch of teeth.

 

[archie73]

Got a pic?

 

[peesalot]

Made of stainless, and yes, I replaced the piece of gasket cut out in pic, no leaks, and the stainless has great tension so the tab does not bend letting bolt walk out, I was quit happy with it. Used a file to make the channel in the cover.

 

[archie73]

Thanks for the pics @peesalot

So at a minimum I need to do something about my linkage- I’ve got a ton of slop. Im thinking of pushing the easy button and buying the AA kit. I’m running a plate adapter to an SM465, so my linkage will be a bit shorter then their pics, but otherwise it should bolt up. Currently I’ve got 3 bungee cords on there to keep it in gear.

 

[65swb45]

Thanks for the pics @peesalot

So at a minimum I need to do something about my linkage- I’ve got a ton of slop. Im thinking of pushing the easy button and buying the AA kit. I’m running a plate adapter to an SM465, so my linkage will be a bit shorter then their pics, but otherwise it should bolt up. Currently I’ve got 3 bungee cords on there to keep it in gear.

When things are working as they should, linkage is only used to MOVE from gear to gear, not to HOLD the case in gear.

 

[archie73]

When things are working as they should, linkage is only used to MOVE from gear to gear, not to HOLD the case in gear.

Yep I agree. I guess I was thinking more precise linkage would eliminate the linkage from the equation. Right now I’ve done the 2lo mod, but the slop doesn’t inspire confidence…
As it turn out out, I checked the sm465 oil level and it was over filled. I guess I need to redo the seal anyway.

 

[peesalot]

"When things are working as they should " curious remark coming from you who knows all too well that things rarely work as they should and quite frequently work as they are or well enough to get by. If things worked as they should what would we do with ourselves ????

 

[1MOA]

When things are working as they should, linkage is only used to MOVE from gear to gear, not to HOLD the case in gear.

After all of my case issues mine actually shifts nicely and holds itself in gear on the trails and on the road with no issues. I will be completely honest and give total credit for that to @OTRAMM for doing and amazing build on it in spite of the massive manufacturing errors he encountered.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

After all of my case issues mine actually shifts nicely and holds itself in gear on the trails and on the road with no issues. I will be completely honest and give total credit for that to @OTRAMM for doing and amazing build on it in spite of the massive manufacturing errors he encountered.

Curious what the “secret sauce” is to get them to hold gear and function as the should - is it pure blind luck or just taking a micrometer to every part AA sends and making them continue to send you parts until you get a match you like? What are the crucial “go/no-go” tolerances you need to look at on assembly to successfully build one of these?

 

[1MOA]

Curious what the “secret sauce” is to get them to hold gear and function as the should - is it pure blind luck or just taking a micrometer to every part AA sends and making them continue to send you parts until you get a match you like? What are the crucial “go/no-go” tolerances you need to look at on assembly to successfully build one of these?

I would reach out to him. I do know he built it the EXACT tolerances they specified on the final(3rd) case they sent out. He also had to “clean up” the fork as well but I don’t want to speak for him on what was required to get it together and work.