Are you using the machine's recommended settings for sheet metal? That should get you close. Also, flux core will not be the easiest for sheet metal work.
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Are you using the machine's recommended settings for sheet metal? That should get you close. Also, flux core will not be the easiest for sheet metal work.
Go spend 100 bucks and get a gas setup. It really makes a world of difference...
fjl40
SILVER Star
I think you can get the penetration you need with your stitch welds. Your welding thin metal and not 11gauge or thicker. I welded some small holes on my FJ40 with a metal rod, cut off the extra, sanded the rest down and looks great. That was after a burn through so I did the practice thing. It seems like your on the right track, especially doing stitch welds the most important thing,,,patience. This was me when first started welding thin metal.
. Your doing a good job, good luck.
. Your doing a good job, good luck.
fjl40
SILVER Star
If you do have the the $$$, like ToyoToler said, the gas would make your life easier!
euclid
SILVER Star
Gas changes everything with those little cracker box welders. You won't be sad if you make that change.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #66
Making progress. I know gas would make things easier but...it looks like i can get away with not using it just yet.
Started looking at this "liner" and realized that it was worthless, and rotten. I decided to start chipping it away to make sure I didn't have anything nasty hiding underneath it.
So far so good
Found some rust holes. Bummer.
And another crack near the door sill
Pulled out the welder and got to work
Got some burn-through with this one. Im going to have to slowly weld this one to build up material. This is a learning process; granted the metal here was paper thin from rust.
Started looking at this "liner" and realized that it was worthless, and rotten. I decided to start chipping it away to make sure I didn't have anything nasty hiding underneath it.
So far so good
Found some rust holes. Bummer.
And another crack near the door sill
Pulled out the welder and got to work
Got some burn-through with this one. Im going to have to slowly weld this one to build up material. This is a learning process; granted the metal here was paper thin from rust.
Rust bullet in that tub will self level/protect/ dry hard as nails but still show metal shape (not a bedliner)
It will fill in those small rust holes.
It will fill in those small rust holes.
Dry ice works great for removing the spray on coating
fjl40
SILVER Star
Yes, the Rust Bullet will be great on the pitted floor. For that burn through, I would patch from the bottom side and weld from the top, like a rosebud weld. You should use 3M weld through to spray on to protect the metal from the bottom. That's just something I've done and work great. However, there are bigger brains out there that may have a better solution.
There should be a code in the Land Cruiser equivalent Kojiki that requires all 40 owners to wire wheel the entire inner tub from firewall to rear sill upon taking ownership of the vehicle. No better way to form that long lasting bond...
F that
It CAN be applied over paint but its ideal adhesion is over rusty/pited metal. Take off what paint you can and roll on 2 thick coats of RB and its rock solid.
Make sure to put tape in the roll cage and seat frame captive nuts!!!!
Strong work. I'd wear a mask and goggles while scraping that stuff. It is supposedly Navy grade aircraft carrier liner so probably not good for your health.
Can't be any worse for you than Aircraft Paint Remover. Warning label on that stuffs says, Can Cause Genetic Mutations.
Or the zinc primate (chromate) paint we used as rust inhibitor back when I was in. Nasty stuff
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #78
New grade 8 hardware installed
Pulled out the seat brackets for the driver's seat. Wire wheel, then black epoxy paint.
Then took apart the driver's seat hardware. Wire wheel, then black epoxy.
Then reassembled with new stainless hardware
Pulled out the seat brackets for the driver's seat. Wire wheel, then black epoxy paint.
Then took apart the driver's seat hardware. Wire wheel, then black epoxy.
Then reassembled with new stainless hardware
Like your License Plate mod!
