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So I'm almost done with wiring finally?
I finished up the Redarc dual battery gauge with ammeter mounted it in the front cubby.
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How long do you need to drive to charge the depleted grp 34 with that redarc dcdc? Since you took the time to wire up a shunt for the ammeter you should get some kind of battery gauge to tell you how many amps you've used instead of just amp draw/gain. I think over time those things learn your max capacity and you can get a fairly accurate idea of how much you've got left
 
@Gx460sd If I have my calculations right it should take about two hours to get the 34 back up to full float. Great mind think alike! That's why I have the Powerwerx watt meter that will be installed in the rear once ARB finally ships my drawer trim kit. The Redarc unit is an inductive loop around the alternator output cable so no shunt needed.
 
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I buttoned up the front cubby package with a s QC3.0 USB charge ports and a removed the factory USB Aux in and installed the control switch for the rear power supply.
 
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I added one of those dual USB ports on the back of my center console. It's stupid that they only gave 1 USB port!!
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Tex68w said:
I need to do this.
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Just a suggestion, but I wired mine straight up to the battery (with a fuse of course).
Doing this I don't have to have my ignition on for charging. If I need to charge my phone while I'm away from my car (e.g. surfing, skiing,, hiking, fishing, etc.), I can still just lock up my car and keep my phone (or whatever) charging.
It's nice having a dedicated 12 VDC outlet. 👍
 
I have mine run to the the relay that controls my rear power (aka strait to the aux battery) as it was a convenient place to tap in.
 
Getting ready to install the factory trans cooler shortly. I want to see how it performs with one of my average weight trailers.
 
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Washingtontaco said:
Where did you buy the Kaon table? eBay won’t ship it to my address.

**** ordered directly from Kaon***** thanks anyway.
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@Washingtontaco Yep, don't be afraid of the prices on their site as they are in AUD. They are great to work with and it showed up in 3-4 days.
 
ChiTown said:
@Washingtontaco Yep, don't be afraid of the prices on their site as they are in AUD. They are great to work with and it showed up in 3-4 days.
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No worries on the pricing. I've ordered from Drifta in the past. Really surprising how fast things ship!

Concerning the table how sturdy is the table with the use of the screws into the plastic door panel? I may see if I can through bolt it buy removing the panel and using bolt, nut and a larger washer on the back side of the panel.
 
Washingtontaco said:
No worries on the pricing. I've ordered from Drifta in the past. Really surprising how fast things ship!

Concerning the table how sturdy is the table with the use of the screws into the plastic door panel? I may see if I can through bolt it buy removing the panel and using bolt, nut and a larger washer on the back side of the panel.
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That is exactly what I did. Pulled the panel and used a machine screw with a large fender washer
 
ChiTown said:
View attachment 2164561
Front bumper, recovery points, and skid plates installed.

A few pointers:
Bumper: The cutting template for the bumper cover is all wrong. You'll have to measure and cut. The cut cover sits on top of the bumper not behind it.

Recovery points: They are a tight fit and you'll have to move the power steering cooler lines out of the way.

I did this by flattening the stock cooler line mounting bracket and cutting the locating tab off of it. Then you can give the line a push inward and it'll clear the recovery point.
View attachment 2164582
I also shaved the stock frame horn plate to make sure the recovery point sat flush with it.

I also unbolted the radiator (4 bolts) and ran the long bolt from the inside to the outside because it's too long to go the other way. I did the same with the bolts in the lower tab. Yes I did not put a washer on the side bolt, there wasn't enough clearance and there's more than enough support from the other hardware.
View attachment 2164583

I did have to shave down about 3mm off the factory RH support bracket mounting plate to get the recovery point to sit flat.

So there are 4 bolts holding them and if you do their bumper it adds another 4 bolts, much stronger than a plate with 2 bolts on the side of a frame rail.
View attachment 2164587
(Pic during assembly)

Skid plates: I rolled the dice here because it says on the website "not for KDSS". I figured I'd have to remove the lower brace and maybe trim the sides like a TRD Pro unit.

Well the unit is actually designed for a KDSS vehicle. It's a direct bolt on with no modifications. It was a good laugh because the illustrations in the instructions were of a KDSS truck. (I've informed Ironman4x4 America)

That brings me to the one oops with them. The front mounting bracket covers a hole needed for the RH recovery point. It's only takes a slight trim to get the clearance needed.

Over all fitment was decent, quality was good, final appearance looks good. Instructions leave a lot to be desired.
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I got the same recovery points for my 2013, but my power steering cooler lines do not want to move out of the way, I'm afraid I will bend them. Was there a specific method you used to get them out of the way? Mine look like they route much more forward in car than yours.
 
BPGX460 said:
I got the same recovery points for my 2013, but my power steering cooler lines do not want to move out of the way, I'm afraid I will bend them. Was there a specific method you used to get them out of the way? Mine look like they route much more forward in car than yours.
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I had to reshape the mounting brackets and actually push the line in towards the engine bay. If you follow the lines into the engine bay you'll find the holders and you can loosen them to show you to move the line easier.
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ChiTown said:
I finally sat down and figured out how to keep my secondary air injection while installing my auxillary battery.
I used the Shrock works T4R battery tray because it had the bracket for the PS reservoir and a tab to mount the A/C line.
The tray bolts in without issue
I needed to take about an inch off both PS hoses so they didn't rub up against the upper hose/thermostat housing.
There's a pressed in stud for the A/C with a p-clip to hold the line. I tapped out the stud and and drilled out the hole to fit the factory rubber isolator off of the original line bracket. I did this to provide better vibration isolation and to raise the line up a little higher to keep it's lower section from rubbing on the lower radiator hose.

I had to bend the tab on the original line holder down to clear the battery.
View attachment 2192493

I've also trimmed the plastic upper shield for a few reasons. I wanted easy access to the battery, the coolant overflow bottle, and the radiator cap. This makes it easier to maintain and service the truck.

Now for the fun part, the air pump relocation.
It wasn't as bad as I was expecting.
I fed the stock wiring into the area under the RH headlight and unclipped the two clips on the pump wiring so I had as much slack as possible.
I unbolted the factory Tee and flipped it on top of the bracket it was bolted to do it gave the hose clearance around the repositioned PS reservoir.
After I routed the factory hose around the front of the battery I took a 5/8 heater hose connector and about 12" of hose and ran that under the RH headlight also.
View attachment 2192499
Now I had my wiring and plumbing up under the headlight I figured out a nice spot for the pump and and set some rivnuts and secured the pump. I might make a little snorkle for the pump?
View attachment 2192508
Now that that's all done I can finish wiring up the Redarc Charger and start to get power wired up to the rear
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Any codes or issues with the relocation? I like the snorkel idea for the pump intake or perhaps plumbing it to the intake air box.
 
@ChiTown - Cool Build!

I just found your thread and I have 2 questions:

1. What is the point of removing the charcoal filter from the airbox? Not trying to debate, just wanting to understand. I've never heard of doing this. Why is it there in the first place?

2. How hard is it to remove and replace the injectors for service?

Thanks!
 
@Washingtontaco
No codes, no issues

@Bralow
1. The charcoal filter on the box is meant to catch fuel vapors that may escape the intake manifold with the engine off. Removing it removes a little restriction from the intake system. Not saying huge difference but I did pick up a little mpg.
2. I'm an experienced Toyota tech so for me it wasn't hard. If you take your time and clean around the injectors well before you start I think it should take an average mechanically inclined guy maybe an hour or two? I have a spare set I can take over to have them cleaned and flowed if your interested.
 
ChiTown said:
1. The charcoal filter on the box is meant to catch fuel vapors that may escape the intake manifold with the engine off. Removing it removes a little restriction from the intake system. Not saying huge difference but I did pick up a little mpg.
2. I'm an experienced Toyota tech so for me it wasn't hard. If you take your time and clean around the injectors well before you start I think it should take an average mechanically inclined guy maybe an hour or two? I have a spare set I can take over to have them cleaned and flowed if your interested.
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Great thanks! Wow that is way easier than I expected.

I appreciate the offer on the spares too! I may get back to you on that.
 
@chitown40
Awesome write up. I just got a GX460.
My go to battery is the Odyssey.
Would you clarify what adapter you mentioned on your main battery install?
Odyssey 34R-PC1500T Main
Mechanical to keep it in plance?
"
a 1/2" thick piece of HDPE that clamps down in top of the battery with factory hold down
"
Or electrical for the OEM battery connectors?
Or both?
 
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