Not another emissions thread! Ugh. (1 Viewer)

Chad717

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Both my VSVs check out good with the ohmmeter, they show no resistance when connected to the body, and are within the range when connected to each prong.
 

fjc-man

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I suspect your rebuilt air pump may not be pushing too much air yet. The guy at B-Z told me to allow 500 miles of run time to fully seat in the new replacement vanes in the pump. You didn’t mention what kind of pump output air you had at the check valve on the air rail connection point. You just stated it wasn’t being diverted back to the air cleaner. Pull the hose at the check valve and see how much pressure is actually being created.
 

Chad717

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Can you blow through them?

I tried to blow air through the VSV for the AI system and I cannot blow air through it, both with the ignition off and ignition on. do I have to wire it up to the battery to make it work like it says in the FSM?

I suspect your rebuilt air pump may not be pushing too much air yet. The guy at B-Z told me to allow 500 miles of run time to fully seat in the new replacement vanes in the pump. You didn’t mention what kind of pump output air you had at the check valve on the air rail connection point. You just stated it wasn’t being diverted back to the air cleaner. Pull the hose at the check valve and see how much pressure is actually being created.

I got that note as well when i got my rebuilt pump. But i'm not sure how to drive 500 miles in a car that isn't registered. I am not sure how to check the pump output air? and specialty tools i need? Thanks!
 

Chad717

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Latest try with timing set correctly and tightening up the idle mixture screw a little bit. I also added 4 bottles of heet to about a quarter of a tank of gas, since we don't have any E85. Probably need more right? It got way better.

HC: 2.09 Limits 4.5 Pass
CO: 102 Limits 45
NOx 0.0897 Limits 6.0 Pass
 
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Latest try with timing set correctly and tightening up the idle mixture screw a little bit. I also added 4 bottles of heet to about a quarter of a tank of gas, since we don't have any E85. Probably need more right? It got way better.

HC: 2.09 Limits 4.5 Pass
CO: 102 Limits 45
NOx 0.0897 Limits 6.0 Pass
There’s a balance between CO and NOx. Looks like you’ve got plenty of wiggle room on the NOx. It’ll raise back up as you get you CO to come down. Or you can dump clean air out the tail... and probably pass with flying colors
 

OSS

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Yeah - as stated above - normally a gross fail of CO is due to a malfunctioning air injection system. Extra oxygen is required to be injected into the exhaust stream to allow the CAT to convert the CO to CO2 & H2O. I know you said you checked it - but triple check it cuz it's usually the culprit
 

Chad717

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You might check your VCVs as well. The rubber diaphrams fail creating vacuum leaks.

I've got two new VCV's. Well the ones that are for a later model land cruiser that work.

Yeah - as stated above - normally a gross fail of CO is due to a malfunctioning air injection system. Extra oxygen is required to be injected into the exhaust stream to allow the CAT to convert the CO to CO2 & H2O. I know you said you checked it - but triple check it cuz it's usually the culprit

What you and @cps432 are talking about is the air injection into the exhaust stream? Or the Air injection into the air rail? or both. I am now looking at the FSM trying to figure out what I need to plug to get this air injected all the time.
 

Chad717

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To start with it looks like VSV 1 is only closed when the OC temp is about 785 C. I have a brand new cat, but I have no idea if my OC sensor is working. Would it make sense to just bypass VSV 1 by connecting the vacuum hoses and preventing a situation where it would bypass the air to the air cleaner?
image0.jpeg
 
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To start with it looks like VSV 1 is only closed when the OC temp is about 785 C. I have a brand new cat, but I have no idea if my OC sensor is working. Would it make sense to just bypass VSV 1 by connecting the vacuum hoses and preventing a situation where it would bypass the air to the air cleaner? View attachment 2183009
It’s been about a year since I had to go through this, but if I remember correctly you need the abv to be open at all times to bypass the air rail and dump it into the exhaust. That’s what the sensors and vsv are doing at certain speeds and temperatures as is noted in the FSM screen shot you posted. I don’t remember what lines exactly need to be plugged or rerouted as per Jim’s advice. I do know you need to apply constant vacuum to the abv to keep it open.
 
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Plug this vacuum line. You can see the diaphragm in the abv needs to be down to direct the air flow away from the air cleaner. I think there’s something else that needs to be rerouted as well but I’m not 100% sure. I think the abv needs to be closed rather than open. I believe I was mistaken in the post above. Study that diagram that shows airflow. The solid black areas denote vacuum.

Edit, I believe you need to apply vacuum to the asv as well.

4B39F832-7759-4B6B-A7A9-EE3A7F5D6A0F.jpeg
 
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Chad717

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Although I think you were right you want the ABV open so it routes the air to the exhaust instead of the air rail. So i got to plug the vacuum line that closes the ABV which I think might be the one you noted.
 
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Although I think you were right you want the ABV open so it routes the air to the exhaust instead of the air rail. So i got to plug the vacuum line that closes the ABV which I think might be the one you noted.
And apply vacuum to the asv to open it. I think that makes sense.
 

Chad717

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Been trying to find info on a homemade SST to measure smog pump output pressure. I thought I saw a thread on it, but I can't find it now.
 

Chad717

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It does have decent suction from the air cleaner at idle, or what i think is decent, so hard to tell what is right.
 

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