NOLA- A Build Story...that goes Diesel (1 Viewer)

[AussieHJCruza]

This is gonna be good, subscribed!

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Ok day one of actual work being done in the motor. Intake, fuel injection lines, EGR system and heat shields all out. Tomorrow should have turbo exhaust manifold off and start cleaning the block

Glad I finally started this....coolant was rusting up when I removed the right hand side coolant pipe it was pretty gunky. I was worried at first but I looked at @Rock40 build thread at saw some of the same residue. Still not something I wanted to see though

Right side pipe and thermostat

Cleaned out a bit it looked a bit better.

Might use some 3000 grit wet sanding paper to clean out the rest.

Got the stupid EGR system out. Intake of course needs a good cleaning. Sorry for the focus of the pictures, I put in a ton of LED Lighting so I could paint in my garage so I get a lot of over exposure on anything shiny.

Making progress!

 

[MonsterCruiser]

Awesome that you have the time, space and desire to dig into the engine yourself. So many things I'd like to get into myself, but I just don't have the time or space (sometimes also finances). I haven't driven a gas 80 before, but I love my diesel. However, I wouldn't call it fast even with all the upgrades I've done. Looking forward to seeing how you progress with it and your before and after thoughts

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Awesome that you have the time, space and desire to dig into the engine yourself. So many things I'd like to get into myself, but I just don't have the time or space (sometimes also finances). I haven't driven a gas 80 before, but I love my diesel. However, I wouldn't call it fast even with all the upgrades I've done. Looking forward to seeing how you progress with it and your before and after thoughts

Thanks! I have a plethora of desire, some good space and not too much time. The thing is that my job entails a lot of sales, client management and financial knowledge. And while there are many aspects of my job I like, it is in the end if the day, just a two dimensional job that can be repetitive.

Working on my truck is literally the exact opposite of my day to day life and offers me a lot of relaxation when I do it in a unhurried manner. If I rush or stress about it, it loses its fun factor.

Thanks for following along, its always nice to have another diesel guy along for the ride.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Ok another update on this project that's somewhat of a cheat. Its not a new new update as I installed new suspension earlier this summer but forgot to update my build thread.

Because this is more of an expo, work remotely outta the office while fishing on pristine trout streams each evening kind of build I wanted a suspension setup that was adjustable, provided comfort in a lot of washboard roads, did not effect the driveline geometry too much and therefore did not effect the road manners too much. Initially I was looking at a 2.5 to 3.5 inch lift too.

But I did a bit if research and was surprised to see how well and how much wheeling could be done with a two inch lift and tall tires.

This video made me reconsider lift height.





I ended up going with the OME BP 51s as they had good reviews, an excellent warranty and I knew parts availability was unlikely to be an issue. I looked at the Slinky set up too but just couldn't quite justify the expense. Went with heavy springs up front and medium on the rear.

The only downside to this set up is the shock guards are plastic and fall off way to easy.

Before

After

A bit of stink bug but I don't have the 2nd row or 3rd row seats and have a rear bumper on order that should balance it out. Really happy with the ride quality, was a lot dinner and the truck no longer darts to the right. I'll change my settings once I get my bumper on. Thank you to @Wompom for his help on answering my install questions in real time.

 

[Rock40]

Dang man! those are some REALLY nasty looking coolant passages. I did replace all the aluminum coolant passage pipes on mine as they were corroded and replacing them was fairly cheap insurance over a costly leak. I can't remember if the inside of the block looked that bad, maybe it did.

If it was me, I would definitely install a coolant filter as ALL kinds of junk is going to start coming out of that motor when you run it. I mean, it is going to be really gross. After multiple coolant changes, filter changes and nearly 70,000 miles, almost nothing is getting caught in my filter. However, I'm still considering doing an LC9 flush to really clean it out.

Don't forget I'm not far away, I have the 35mm socket for the crankshaft bolt and a 1,200 ft/lb 1" drive air impact. That nut is torqued to 350ft/lbs or something and there is no way you are getting it off by hand. The impact won't even spin the motor and although mine was really rusty, it spun right off. Overall, your motor looks a lot less crusty then mine so that's good. I do have a fairly large stand up media blast cabinet if you need to clean anything up also.

I also have the 316L material for your EGR block off plates however I'm going to need your turbo crossover and exhaust manifold as templates. That stuff is too buried on my truck to do it and my buddy lost all his CAD stuff when his MAC took a big dump.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I would consider a better engine stand. One with two lower arms. Not a single arm that Tees at the end. Gets dicey.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Dang man! those are some REALLY nasty looking coolant passages. I did replace all the aluminum coolant passage pipes on mine as they were corroded and replacing them was fairly cheap insurance over a costly leak. I can't remember if the inside of the block looked that bad, maybe it did.

If it was me, I would definitely install a coolant filter as ALL kinds of junk is going to start coming out of that motor when you run it. I mean, it is going to be really gross. After multiple coolant changes, filter changes and nearly 70,000 miles, almost nothing is getting caught in my filter. However, I'm still considering doing an LC9 flush to really clean it out.

Don't forget I'm not far away, I have the 35mm socket for the crankshaft bolt and a 1,200 ft/lb 1" drive air impact. That nut is torqued to 350ft/lbs or something and there is no way you are getting it off by hand. The impact won't even spin the motor and although mine was really rusty, it spun right off. Overall, your motor looks a lot less crusty then mine so that's good. I do have a fairly large stand up media blast cabinet if you need to clean anything up also.

I also have the 316L material for your EGR block off plates however I'm going to need your turbo crossover and exhaust manifold as templates. That stuff is too buried on my truck to do it and my buddy lost all his CAD stuff when his MAC took a big dump.

Yeah I'm hoping with a little work I'll be able to clean out the passages pretty well. Might even try a skinny brush on a drill. I too ordered all new aluminum coolant pipes actually by following your thread

Great idea on the coolant filter, which one did you use?!

I will definitely take you up on your offer to help. I think I'll be able to get the crank bolt off....I have a Dewalt 1/2 inch impact gun that should do nicely. But I'll definitely need some parts cleaned and help with the injection pump.

And in some other good news, I won't be needing an EGR block off plates as I will be going a different route. More on that later

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

I would consider a better engine stand. One with two lower arms. Not a single arm that Tees at the end. Gets dicey.

Good idea, its a 1.5 ton stand but next time I'll have a better stand. I'll see if I can find one locally here too.

 

[Rock40]

I’m running a really basic coolant filter in the 80, seems to work well. The filter mounts on a cast iron flange with the correct threads.

I’m pretty sure that Mr. Gasket sells a kit for around $40.

You can also get pretty fancy. My current project has an IPR Research coolant which is top of the line. Machined billet and a reusable filter. You pay tho

Filter I’m using on the 80:

IPR Research assembly:

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Alright guys, well after getting sick about a week after my last post (not covid just a nasty had cold that took Forever to go away), one major house plumbing issue and work that just went bananas I finally have some updates.

First I got a 220 volt plug installed in my garage so I can setup an air compressor and use air tools die grinders etc. Got lucky on offerup a found barely used one.

Next got some brass wire brushes, what a difference! I've now resumed work on the motor and my plan this week is to 1) measure for the type of ac compressor I need (my understanding is that there are two different lengths) and if anyone happens to know the correct compressor part number it be much appreciated.

2) do a valve adjustment
3) pull the timing belt, water pump and injection pump

I'll be strictly following the FSM but if anyone has any tips I'd be grateful.

Oh and I also got the block cleaned up much faster and better with the brushes. Even cleaned out the coolant passage pretty well.

Oh, and can someone tell me how to remove the largest coolant pipe circled below? It's the one that is threaded into the block. I couldn't find it in the 1HD-FT manual.

 

[Rock40]

Oh, and can someone tell me how to remove the largest coolant pipe circled below? It's the one that is threaded into the block. I couldn't find it in the 1HD-FT manual.

View attachment 2901724

I believe that fitting is a press fit into the block. I didn’t swap mine out

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

I believe that fitting is a press fit into the block. I didn’t swap mine out

Gotcha, found the part number for it.....16268-17020.

So if I remember right you painted your block correct? Did you tape over this pipe?

 

[FMC80]

Not sure how I missed this thread but glad I found it. Who did you source your engine from? Do you mind sharing the details? I can PM if you prefer

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Gotcha, found the part number for it.....16268-17020.

So if I remember right you painted your block correct? Did you tape over this pipe?

Aha! By searching all of 'mud I found the answer regarding removal and install of the pipe. Thanks @serenity

Post in thread 'How to: 1HZ CT26 turbo install' How to: 1HZ CT26 turbo install - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-1hz-ct26-turbo-install.875775/post-9892167

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Not sure how I missed this thread but glad I found it. Who did you source your engine from? Do you mind sharing the details? I can PM if you prefer

Hi @FMC80

Happy to share some details.....got the engine from @chapel gate who made it easy and patiently answered all my questions.

He arraigned shipping and it was sent from the UK to the east cost and then by rail to Seattle. Troy lines was the shipper I believe. @chapel gate knew all the correct import and export forms to use and filled them out for me. Included was the wiring loom which will make the swap much easier. I had to pay about $500 in import fees at pickup.

As for pricing that's a better question for the engine seller...I bought my engine in September 2020 and prices have changed considerably then. I would contact him directly with any inquiries about that.

Hope that helps

 

[FMC80]

Excellent. Thanks for the info, I’m looking forward to your journey

 

[bottombracket]

To get that water pipe out, apply Kroil or other penetrating oil, let it sit, do it again the next day, and just start wiggling. Repeat over and over until it comes free. I painted my block with a KBS motor coater kit, and yes I removed the water line. A needle scaler was really useful for getting into all the nooks and crannies in the block.

 

[Rock40]

Gotcha, found the part number for it.....16268-17020.

So if I remember right you painted your block correct? Did you tape over this pipe?

I did paint the engine, I just taped over the portion of the pipe that the hose clamps on. My fitting was is decent shape or I would have swapped it.

I used high temp engine spray paint so it doesn’t go in super thick either.

I’ve used the POR-15 engine enamels also and that is nice stuff

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Time for another update! Had to pause working on the engine because I ended up selling my NWTI front bumper to a fellow mud member unexpectedly.

I had ordered a Dissentoffroad front bumper several months ago when they first started taking orders for the 80 series. And it just happen to arrive right when I had someone interested in my old bumper. And in Washington state you have to have a front bumper to legal drive said vehicle. Since I use my rig pretty often I shifted focus installing the front bumper so I could drive it asap.

Dissentoffroad Bumper

This bumper is extremely well designed. The center piece slid in perfected and everything fit well with precision. The welds are perfect and I was thrilled with how well it came together.

As for challenges, they were a few that were unique to my rig mostly due to the fact that not all LC frame and frame mounts are the same. This was surprising to me. I don't know why toyota would do it any differently from year to year. If any one has any insight in this is like to know.

I ended up have to use several spacers to on top of my frame mounts to meet cleanly with the bumper. Luckily my buddy @SerbCruiser had a few extra spacers left over from his 100 series Dissent going bumper. Also my powdercoat seem to scratch pretty easily, maybe it hasn't cured enough?

I ordered my bumper with two extra options; rigid fogs and bullet amber lights. I saw @SerbCruiser fog lights and they were amazing. Exactly what I was looking for and with the angle flush mount you get a nice light pattern. I also wanted integrated fogs so I could keep the area where an intercooler could go .

Lastly in part because of air flow, I ordered the smaller stinger bar in addition to the full bar for more when I go wheeling.

Here are both:

I like the full bar better than the stinger. The wrap of the full bar is extremely well designed. What do you all think?

Next I gotta wire up the lights. I think I'll use the bullets as running lights. I might incorporate a blinker mod too though. Fogs should be wired up this week. Waiting on a toyota OEM fog light switch.