FMC80
SILVER Star
That bumper looks great, I prefer the full bar vs the stinger. You have plans for a winch?
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Yes, got a Smittybuilt X20 which is waterproof and has synthetic rope and remote control that should do the job. In a head to head shoot out with a bunch of others including warn and comeup which surprised me. Can't find the article right now but I'll post it if I come across it.That bumper looks great, I prefer the full bar vs the stinger. You have plans for a winch?
Awesome, I’ve never touched my H151 and it’s flawless. They are a good transmissionUpdate number 2 for the two for the weekend! I'm on a roll now!
Got my transmission back from TR transmission in Lake Steven's WA.
TR TRANSMISSIONS LLC
(425) 387-2589
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TR TRANSMISSIONS LLC · 10620 20th St SE, Lake Stevens, WA 98258
★★★★★ · Transmission shopmaps.app.goo.gl
Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I'm putting in a H151 5 Speed. And I got two surprises that go with it. But more on that later.
If you are located in Western Washington I highly recommend Dan at TR transmission. He was communicative and explained a couple snafus that came up during the rebuild.
One of which, we had the incorrect input and output bearings from cruiser Brothers. But to their credit, as soon as I brought up the issue they had replacement parts out to me the next day.
I bought this transmission through @joekatana who was really easy to work with despite my numerous and I will wager, sometimes annoying one banana mechanic questions.
In the rebuild I had to replace the input shaft because it had some wear, replaced the synchros just in case, even though they looked fine, and the 3-4 hub. Should be nice and new now.
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Hi Rock. What grade redline did you use. Mt85 or 75w90,?Awesome, I’ve never touched my H151 and it’s flawless. They are a good transmission
I can tell you that it LOVES the Redline full synthetic gear oil
I tried several different oils in mine and the Redline made a gigantic difference in how smooth it shifts
75w-90Hi Rock. What grade redline did you use. Mt85 or 75w90,?
Thanks I got the mt95 75w-90 and it made a huge difference in shifting from 1-2 and 2-1.75w-90
That’s going to be an amazing setup. And congrats on the kid! I’ve been there before, had to cut hobbies down to just one or two to focus on, kids take up timeOk after just about a year I am back! What happened? Where did I go? Well we got a new addition to the family!
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As I am sure some of you know, the above picture is bigger than any build, more demanding, steeper learning curve and requires much more planning.
The last year has flown by and because of this guy and work and keeping up with family and a home I just had to rethink my build. It was obvious the hours and hours to do the swap I had in mind was gone. There is no way I could do an engine refresh/mild rebuild, manual transmission swap, fuel lines, interior refresh, paint, bumpers and all the other odds and ends I wanted to do. So I decided to send the truck to Torfab to have them do the swap. And man did I not want to do that....not because Torfab isn't a great shop, of course it is. But because I wanted to learn how to do a build myself. So thats not to be this time around but I still didn't want to give up on the swap given that I spent almost three years gathering parts. So where are we now? Time to update progress on the build and mention a few of the surprises that I have in for it.
First up, Engine has had a thorough go through by Tor. Cylinder walls were described as near perfect, normal wear on the cam and a valve adjustment not yet necessary. Vaccum Pump Bearing has been replaced, new gaskets, water pump, thermostat, idler, timing belt, water pipe 1 and 2, injector seals, and main pulley. Intake Manifold was vapor honed (twice, I will have more on that later) and clear coated. It came out a bit more grey than aluminum which was something I liked. Also, I had Torfab paint the block and head a dark grey which will make spotting oil a bit easier. I know that a lot of people paint their blocks black but in low light and under the hood I think this makes spotting leaks a bit more difficult, plus this is something different than everybody else. Also had the valve cover painted black, raised letters sanded and then cleared. Heat shield on the turbo and the exhaust manifold were ceramic heat treated good up to 2000 Degrees F, the shields silver grey and the exhaust manifold in black.
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And yes the turbo has been upgraded to a G Trubo Red Wheel 3.5 along with a 14 mm Injection Pump, and +30% Injectors. Thanks for reading.
Ain't kidding about the time...I woefully underestimated the time I would have available to do the swap. I'm still going to do some work on the truck but more limited to brakes, knuckles, rear bumper, lights etcThat’s going to be an amazing setup. And congrats on the kid! I’ve been there before, had to cut hobbies down to just one or two to focus on, kids take up time
This thing was a blast to drive... thanks for handing me the keys the other day.. we should have snapped some pics of our trucks meeting. They'll meet again thoughOk after just about a year I am back! What happened? Where did I go? Well we got a new addition to the family!
View attachment 3419896View attachment 3419899
As I am sure some of you know, the above picture is bigger than any build, more demanding, steeper learning curve and requires much more planning.
The last year has flown by and because of this guy and work and keeping up with family and a home I just had to rethink my build. It was obvious the hours and hours to do the swap I had in mind was gone. There is no way I could do an engine refresh/mild rebuild, manual transmission swap, fuel lines, interior refresh, paint, bumpers and all the other odds and ends I wanted to do. So I decided to send the truck to Torfab to have them do the swap. And man did I not want to do that....not because Torfab isn't a great shop, of course it is. But because I wanted to learn how to do a build myself. So thats not to be this time around but I still didn't want to give up on the swap given that I spent almost three years gathering parts. So where are we now? Time to update progress on the build and mention a few of the surprises that I have in for it.
First up, Engine has had a thorough go through by Tor. Cylinder walls were described as near perfect, normal wear on the cam and a valve adjustment not yet necessary. Vaccum Pump Bearing has been replaced, new gaskets, water pump, thermostat, idler, timing belt, water pipe 1 and 2, injector seals, and main pulley. Intake Manifold was vapor honed (twice, I will have more on that later) and clear coated. It came out a bit more grey than aluminum which was something I liked. Also, I had Torfab paint the block and head a dark grey which will make spotting oil a bit easier. I know that a lot of people paint their blocks black but in low light and under the hood I think this makes spotting leaks a bit more difficult, plus this is something different than everybody else. Also had the valve cover painted black, raised letters sanded and then cleared. Heat shield on the turbo and the exhaust manifold were ceramic heat treated good up to 2000 Degrees F, the shields silver grey and the exhaust manifold in black.
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And yep the turbo has been upgraded to a G Trubo Red Wheel 3.5 but also along with a 14 mm Injection Pump, and +30% Injectors. Thanks for reading excited to be back on this project.
Not sure, when Torfab did the swap for me they did an oil change of course, I will find out and post it here.Lead and copper may vary by engine manufacturer and sub contractors a manufacturer uses. Great Q. What oil are you using and what is the baseline copper and lead in it? Interested to hear from what it means for Toyota engines, in your case the 1HDTX series and sources for lead and copper.
Spoke with Tor this last week and they use Valvoline 15W 40 or Napa 15W 40. Rumor is that Valvoline makes Napa oil. They will also use Delo in the same weight. I will be using Valvoline Premium for the foreseeable future.Lead and copper may vary by engine manufacturer and sub contractors a manufacturer uses. Great Q. What oil are you using and what is the baseline copper and lead in it? Interested to hear from what it means for Toyota engines, in your case the 1HDTX series and sources for lead and copper.