No-start (does crank) 1989 FJ62 - need input

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Have you checked the fusible link?

I would start checking continuity from this wire diagram and work my way down. theres probably a cleaner version of this diagram online lolView attachment 3064680
I used my headlamp and the advantage of cooler weather to go outside and fully disconnect my battery, separate out the fusible link (had to put some pb blaster on a nut and let it sit overnight) and I managed to disconnect the EFI relay as well. Tomorrow morning after a job interview (so I can continue to afford my Cruiser habit) I’ll get back out there and test the fusible link connections, the EFI relay and if I don’t die of heat stroke I’ll remove the AFM and finish the plate testing on a bench.

I’ll also work my way down the continuity testing chart.
 
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Update time: I've been lazy because it was so hot but I finally got back out there today and did something dumb. There was continuity between the fusible links...until I decided to disconnect them to make sure they looked good and clean it up a bit. Of course, in doing so, I broke the terminal lead that connects to the alternator. Yay....

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Continuity exists between the COR and the fuel pump. Connectors look good. Continuity also exists between the AFM connector and the COR. All fuses tested okay.

Going to check all the grounds and order new fusible links.
 
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Update: still waiting on fusible links. I jerry-rigged a fix to my broken alternator fusible link connection with some 14 gauge fusible link wire from autozone just to get it started for diagnostic purposes. Going to replace my grounds as well and clean up the electrical mess with a tinned copper bus bar.

Still trying to get the AFM off so I can bench test it. I removed the four nuts and washers on the front (if looking from the point of view of passenger fender area) but the underside left corner has a Philips head screw that is stuck on there really tight. I’ve been soaking it in pb blaster and I’ll try again tomorrow.

edit: it’s not the Philips head screw that keeps the AFM hooked up, it’s a small bolt on the underside.

While poking around the engine I’m learning and absorbing. I’m also finding connectors that are unplugged and I’m wondering what they are for - I don’t think they are related to my issue but maybe! Any ideas?

Also, hoping to start my new job on the 8th and really need it running by then. While trying to make sense of the wiring I found out my battery tray is not long for this world so I’ll be sourcing a new stainless steel tray soon.

You want a hobby? Buy a cruiser…

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Ignore that electrical tape near the fuel pressure regulator - new air check valve is being installed. Soaking that 22mm fastener in pb blaster as well.
 

Dynosoar

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The pink single wire you have circled is your coolant temp switch. Super important for stating the truck. It goes in the top of the thermostat housing on the right (US passenger side) of the car. I bet that helps.
Dyno
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Wanted to give everyone an update. I cleaned up the contact in the coolant temp sensor and put some dialectic grease on there. I re-attached the sensor to the top of the thermostat housing and made sure it was snug.

I can’t check to see if the engine starts just yet because I’m making a bus bar mounting location using some scrap ABS plastic to clean up the nasty wiring near the battery. I also replaced all the ground wires because I figured if I was cleaning them up by removing the bolts, scrubbing with a wire brush and adding a thin layer of dialectic grease then I might as well replace the original ground wires. The body to the passenger side motor mount was, as everyone says, a real pain the @**. I hope this solves a bouncing voltage issues I’ve been experiencing on and off.

I bench tested the AFM today - here are my results
It looks good but where it should have zero resistance it seems to have a tiny bit then goes back to 0.00. It was a hot day though. What do you all think?

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ToyotaMatt

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Wanted to give everyone an update. I cleaned up the contact in the coolant temp sensor and put some dialectic grease on there. I re-attached the sensor to the top of the thermostat housing and made sure it was snug.

I can’t check to see if the engine starts just yet because I’m making a bus bar mounting location using some scrap ABS plastic to clean up the nasty wiring near the battery. I also replaced all the ground wires because I figured if I was cleaning them up by removing the bolts, scrubbing with a wire brush and adding a thin layer of dialectic grease then I might as well replace the original ground wires. The body to the passenger side motor mount was, as everyone says, a real pain the @**. I hope this solves a bouncing voltage issues I’ve been experiencing on and off.

I bench tested the AFM today - here are my results
It looks good but where it should have zero resistance it seems to have a tiny bit then goes back to 0.00. It was a hot day though. What do you all think?

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if this helps at this point please PM me

ill set you up with what all you need here on the GREY TIP Sensor ...

thanks
matt





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It looks good but where it should have zero resistance it seems to have a tiny bit then goes back to 0.00. It was a hot day though. What do you all think?
if there's any sound on your video, I can't hear it. When you say it goes back to 0.00... is that while you're still holding it open? My understanding of the E1-FC circuit is basically like a light switch - it's either on or off. So on the meter, you're going to see OL if it's off and some kind of reading (other than OL) if it's on. Which I think is what you're reporting. In which case I'd call it good. That circuit is telling the ECU the engine is running (air is pulling the flap open) or it is not (spring closes the flap).

I notice your meter is auto-ranging from M ohms to K ohms, which might make the reading seem odd. On mine I would turn off the AUTO ranging function and set the meter fixed to K ohms so I can better see what is actually happening.
 
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Does the fp operate when you manually open the flapper on the afm?
The cor has two pulling circuits, one for cranking, gets power from the key switch. Tbe other is operated via the afm switch.
Sometimes one side dies.
 
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Not sure why the sound didn’t come through on the video. Basically the AFM tested well and I think it’s good to go. @toy_tek I noticed the auto ranting was messing with the readings too. I’ll have to figure out how to turn it off for future testing.

@Dynosoar I think the coolant temp sensor was the culprit!

I put everything back together again today and the engine fired right up! Let this be a lesson to everyone - just because you‘re not getting any codes doesn’t mean there isn’t a loose connector somewhere. I checked codes first thing and none popped up.

Thank you everyone for your input - it’s been….fun? It’s been productive at least and I know a lot more than I did a few weeks ago.
 
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Man, if it’s not one thing it’s another. It was a hot day and I drove a few miles, let the truck sit about four hours, started it up again, drove fine a few more miles, stopped about forty minutes, started up again and it felt like it took a few more cranks than usual. Within a block or two I smelled gasoline and it got worse within another block. I pulled over to a parking garage, left the engine running and got out to see if I could see fuel spray or wetness. Nothing on the underside of the truck, so I look at the fuel rail, see nothing from a vantage point of facing head on standing in front of the grill, nothing when looking in from the drivers side, and then I finally see (from the passenger side) some spray / leak down from behind the engine where the stainless steel hardline snakes around to meet the fuel delivery pipe on the other side. I marked this area with purple arrows on the attached image.

I stop the engine and try to investigate further but I’m late for a movie so I walk to the theatre. When the movie is over (2 hours) I come back to the truck and try and replicate the problem by forcing the fuel pump to run via the check connector. No more leak, no more gas smell. I removed the jump wire from the check connector, fired up the engine and drove home (very close) and need to investigate further tomorrow because I do not like the idea of fuel spray / leak in the engine while driving.

Notes: fuel does not seem to be leaking from the pulsation damper - it’s dry to the touch. Fuel pressure regulator is brand new.

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Dynosoar

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You can flip the copper washers over that seal the fuel pressure dampener.
I bet that's where the leak is. Potentially it may be the dampener as well.
 
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You can flip the copper washers over that seal the fuel pressure dampener.
I bet that's where the leak is. Potentially it may be the dampener as well.

flip them?

Should I remove the pulsation damper (using a 22mm crow wrench…gotta find one maybe harbor freight) and then remove the copper gaskets, literally flip the copper gaskets over and reinstall to 22ft pound torque? Or do you mean switch their positions? Does it matter which is closer to the rail and which is closer to the damper? I’m using the below picture for reference.

CityRacing has a kit and I’m not sure which copper gasket belongs to which part number. One looks tinned with an inner pattern and the other looks to be pure copper with a smooth inner and outer. OEM Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper Kit for Land Cruiser FJ62 FJ80 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-fuel-pressure-pulsation-damper-for-land-cruiser-fj62

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banieldowen

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Might be worth checking your cold start injector. I circled it it here. I did mine today and it was disgusting. Now it fires up at the first turn of the key.

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@banieldowen Good thought - I actually cleaned it up a couple weeks ago. It was filthy but now it’s shiny clean and tightly secured.

Before I took the pulsation damper off and flipped the washers / gaskets per @Dynosoar I tried to replicate the issue to make sure that where the leak was coming from - when the issue presented last night I did feel the pulsation damper and it felt dry but that was a pretty quick check because it was dark and I didn’t want to get gas on myself before a movie. I wanted to see if I could see / feel it today with lots of light in my driveway and I could not get the issue to happen again. At first I tried jumping the fuel pump with the engine off - nothing. I disconnected the jumper and fired it like normal. It cranked four or five times and didn’t start. When I went to start it again it fired right up. No leak.

I let it idle about fifteen minutes and the engine was at normal operating temp. No leak. I stepped on the accelerator pedal to try and force more pressure through the rail by altering the air / fuel mixture. I did this several times. No leak. I tried again and let it sit at 2000-2500rpms about ten seconds. No leak.

Ambient air temperature was in the mid eighties.

I don’t want to try and fix something that ain’t broke so I guess I’ll drive it until the issue presents again. If it is the pulsation damper I’ll make sure I have work clothes and the tools to fix it in the truck.

Fingers crossed. I’ll update when I know more.

Video is from last night to prove to myself I didn’t imagine it. Poor video quality - it was dark and hard to see.
 
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Confirmed it is a leak (intermittent but when it happens it is significant) from the top of the fuel pulsation damper. I’ll order a replacement tonight.

My working theory is that since I replaced the fuel pressure regulator it revealed a weakness in the pulsation damper. Maybe best practice would be to simply replace them both at the same time.

I’ll keep everyone posted.
 

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