No compression middle 2 cylinders on FJ62 (1 Viewer)
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The head bolts do not need to be replaced.
Rusto
SILVER Star
Supposed to replace the head bolts every time the head comes off. I'm sure you don't HAVE to do so, but that's per Toyota, not this mechanic. They are definitely more expensive than they should be, but unfortunately it's comparable to others here in Durango that don't do as good as work.
But a lot of people don't, that's for sure. But If I'm spending a lot of money (to me anyway) I'm going to go ahead and replace the bolts.
But a lot of people don't, that's for sure. But If I'm spending a lot of money (to me anyway) I'm going to go ahead and replace the bolts.
FishTacos
Full Globetard
$3k for a head renew?
That's obscene.
If you take it to a machine shop, it should be less than 200$ in labor
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I was quoted 3000 also for s head gasket on a 60. Parts machining and labor.
Sounds really high to me but maybe there is some complexity that I don’t fathom. There was another mudder here who sent me his invoice for a full 2f rebuild all inclusive and it was around $6000 or $7000 iirc. I’ll have to look where I put it.
I had a valve job done on my '78 2F 2 years ago at Gunn in Denver. I supplied the valve stem seals, and they milled .030 from the head (for a compression jump - wish I had done more), did a valve job, installed the seals, replaced head plugs, etc. - Total was $260 labor. I re-used my head bolts and an OEM head gasket, and all is well.
Replace them as you see fit, but it’s not required as per the FSM. The section on the cylinder head covers: removal, disassembly, inspection, cleaning and repair, assembly and installation. If components are don’t check out they are to be replaced, otherwise the only reference to new parts is “Replace all gaskets and oil seals with new ones”
It suggests cleaning the threads and applying engine oil to the head bolts.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
^^^
This is correct. ‘In Spec’ head bolts on 2f’s do not need to be replaced with new.
This is correct. ‘In Spec’ head bolts on 2f’s do not need to be replaced with new.
I think that was mine, came out to a little over 6! ouch
Rusto
SILVER Star
I stand corrected, then regarding the head bolts and the need for replacement. I appreciate all of this information for sure.
They did state that they'll be sending the head out for the work, to a local guy that has good reputation. And they stated that could run up to $500, so that's not terrible.
I am VERY curious at this point, how they are going to justify the other $2,500... Let's say new parts are $500, which is a very liberal amount, and their labor is worth $100 an hour, that still leaves 20 hours to take off the head, send it out, and put it back on it when it comes back. Definitely not 20 hours worth of labor, maybe 2 hours for troubleshooting... 18 hours is still about 8 hours too much in my opinion.
Anybody know what Toyota states as the time it takes to remove and reinstall the head on a 2F?
I'll DEFINITELY be asking for an itemized receipt and a discussion with the owner if something doesn't add up.
Thanks again for all the feedback.
They did state that they'll be sending the head out for the work, to a local guy that has good reputation. And they stated that could run up to $500, so that's not terrible.
I am VERY curious at this point, how they are going to justify the other $2,500... Let's say new parts are $500, which is a very liberal amount, and their labor is worth $100 an hour, that still leaves 20 hours to take off the head, send it out, and put it back on it when it comes back. Definitely not 20 hours worth of labor, maybe 2 hours for troubleshooting... 18 hours is still about 8 hours too much in my opinion.
Anybody know what Toyota states as the time it takes to remove and reinstall the head on a 2F?
I'll DEFINITELY be asking for an itemized receipt and a discussion with the owner if something doesn't add up.
Thanks again for all the feedback.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Please reread @SteveH post #28. If you’ve got the time, can access the FSM and are mechanically inclined (even if you’ve never done this) you can save yourself a lot of $$ compared to what this shop is quoteing.
The machine shop does all the intricate work. Pulling the head, installing the OEM head-gasket and tightening the bolts to spec is very straightforward. And MUD will help you.
Something to think about.
The machine shop does all the intricate work. Pulling the head, installing the OEM head-gasket and tightening the bolts to spec is very straightforward. And MUD will help you.
Something to think about.
Rusto
SILVER Star
unfortunately, I don't have the time. I've done similar work in the past, but insanely busy with work, two small children, etc.. to be going deep. I have some other items I'll be doing myself, but can't do this right now.
I'll DEFINITELY be asking for an itemized receipt and a discussion with the owner if something doesn't add up.
You need to ask this BEFOREHAND - or else it's too late. The shop should be able to say up front 'barring the unforseen (snapped off stud or some such), the cost to remove the head, machine, and reinstall should be $xxx.xx.'
You need to ask this BEFOREHAND - or else it's too late. The shop should be able to say up front 'barring the unforseen (snapped off stud or some such), the cost to remove the head, machine, and reinstall should be $xxx.xx.'
I don't know what your laws are in Colorado, but at my shop in Michigan we have to provide a detailed itemized estimate for any work over $50. I agree with the others, $3000 is high, you should shop around.
BGarcia88FJ62
SILVER Star
First thing 3K for a head job is absolutely insane, way too high.
First thing I'd do is post up in your local Cruiser Club. There's bound to be someone there more than willing to give better advice on local shops in Tucson or Phoenix. Or perhaps willing to help you do this job yourself. It's not terribly complicated. Key thing is finding
a good shop to do any machining which any Engine shop should be able to do. The rest is just following directions in the FSM and turning wrenches, YOU can do this.
First thing I'd do is post up in your local Cruiser Club. There's bound to be someone there more than willing to give better advice on local shops in Tucson or Phoenix. Or perhaps willing to help you do this job yourself. It's not terribly complicated. Key thing is finding
a good shop to do any machining which any Engine shop should be able to do. The rest is just following directions in the FSM and turning wrenches, YOU can do this.
Not necessarily, HG will blow between two cylinders and just transfer compression back and forth. No coolant loss. Speaking from experience.
Whoops, should have checked the date!
Rusto
SILVER Star
^^ that's actually what I hoped had happened. I'll be "popping in" on Monday to get a breakdown of parts cost, head work (outsourced) and their labor estimate and will report back.
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