projectTuRD
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- #161
Builds New project, 1969 fj40 (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter projectTuRD
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That definately doesn't look like the correct fitting. It should have seated way before threading in that far. The line is loose still?
I think you got the wrong clutch master. If the line came out the front like OEM, then that new one would work.
projectTuRD
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- #163
It’s an ‘upgrade kit’ for our trucks. I don’t think the front opening master is available anymore.
I keep thinking I’m missing something, that a major company like CCOT would come up with such a crappy solution without a better explanation.
I’m usually the one making the mistakes so I don’t know what to think here.
Skreddy
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A few of your rocker adjusting screws look really far out, unless you haven’t adjusted them yet. I’d make sure the pushrod is down in the lifter and not on the side of it or something. Are they the pushrods that came out of the engine?
projectTuRD
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- #165
That’s what I was thinking. They are all adjusted except number 9. I guess I can pull the side cover off again and check.
They’re the ones that came out and I numbered them so they went back in where they came out.
projectTuRD
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- #166
projectTuRD
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- #167
To make things even more fun, the valve cover doesn’t sit all the way down anymore. 
middlecalf
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Wow, somethings amiss (duh, but what Sherlock 
). Whenever you get around to it, I’d just use the starter (pull coil/distributor main wire) to turn the motor over with covers off to see how things are moving. I wouldn’t want the motor firing and running until certain things are copesetic (sp? ).
We need an engine/motor forum where the real engine gurus are moderators and can provide insight. I could name a few.
). Whenever you get around to it, I’d just use the starter (pull coil/distributor main wire) to turn the motor over with covers off to see how things are moving. I wouldn’t want the motor firing and running until certain things are copesetic (sp? ).We need an engine/motor forum where the real engine gurus are moderators and can provide insight. I could name a few.
projectTuRD
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- #169
There’s no battery or front fenders or anything installed. I’m going to find a socket that fits the crank nut and an extension so I can turn it over using a bar in front of the radiator.Wow, somethings amiss (duh, but what Sherlock
We need an engine/motor forum where the real engine gurus are moderators and can provide insight. I could name a few.
firemanj92
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46mm socket.
projectTuRD
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- #171
Thank you!!
firemanj92
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If you were closer, I'd loan you mine.
Just take the adjuster out of the rocker arm and lift the pushrod to see if it falls into the cup of the lifter. or loosen it enough to where you can spin tne pushrod. If it is seated in the lifter it will spin freely and you can feel the rod in the cup of the lifter. Did you remove the lifters from the block? If you did are you sure the lifter is setting down on the camshaft lobe or is it stuck above the camshaft from being dry? Maybe add oil down the pushrod while turning over the engine. You stated you followed the adjustment procedure, what procedure (1st group adjusted & second group) and what amount the engine was spun to get from the 1st to the 2nd ? Hard to analyze w/o this info.
That fuel line moved from under the cover might help aye ?To make things even more fun, the valve cover doesn’t sit all the way down anymore.
View attachment 3048532
projectTuRD
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- #175
I took the side cover off yesterday because all the other pushrods moved a little except that one. It was good.
As I turn the motor over, the pushrod goes up and down.
I talked to a friend yesterday who suggested I may have the dizzy in 180 out which I didn’t think was possible but I can screw up anything.
I’m going to loosen everything up, redo the dizzy and start all over, physically making sure the 1 is at tdc compression instead of relying on rotor placement and timing mark.
projectTuRD
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- #176
It’s the angle. It’s sitting behind it. I think it’s somehow hitting the adjusters that are backed way out.
Toyota in their infinite wisdom went through a lot of work to make adjusting the valves a PITA. I guess their theroy was who would want to remove the side cover to adjust valves IMO. Now, just using common sense (not always common these days) any valve is adjusted at its lowest point, which is, the lifter is off the lobe of the camshaft. The duration from one side of the lobe to the other side as the camshaft turns (lowest point) is where the valve is adjusted. With the side cover removed you can see the lifter rise as it travels up the lobe (lift) and back down the other side. When the lifter bottoms out it is at it's lowest point (where you adjust it) . If you look at the picture your #9 lifter is up from its lowest point, so it is on the cam lobe rising. That is not where the adjustment is made. With the side cover off I would just bottom out each lifter and adjust that tappet and all others that are bottomed out. Then I would turn the engine to get any other lifter/s that was up to rotate down to it's lowest point and adjust it. That will guarantee the spacing of the tappet and the valve stem is correct. Tempature effecting the adjustment (hot expands & cold shrinks) is approximatly .0005 and your guage has that much when you adjust. You may be 8 1/2 thousandth instead of 8 or 7 1/2. If you want to follow Toyota's directions stick your finger in #1 sparkplug hole and rotate the engine until air starts blowing out past your finger. Now you can put anything through the spak plug hole on top of the piston and rotate the motor until it reaches it's highest point., that is TDC. I took an old sparkplug, broke off the ceramic top amd removed the electrode so i end up with just the metal portion. I took an air hose quick connect male end and using the threaded side inserted it into the old spak plug (it threaded in tight). I use this tool to put an air hose onto to listen for blowby in my cylinders (are valves seating). I also use a wooden dowel (round pencil) and insert it in the fitting eraser down to measure piston rise. This is what I put on top of the piston so my hands are free to rotate the engine. Old school but it works, I use mainly on Harley Davidson iron engines timing.
The home made tool. The one I have apart is the small thread and the last is the large thread plug B4 modified. The porcelain part is the same size on both plugs.
projectTuRD
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- #179
I started over with the valve adjustment. It was 180* out.
Got it squared away and started throwing parts at it to see what stuck.
Got it squared away and started throwing parts at it to see what stuck.
Looks great, frustrating when simple things go awry. I bought a '69 rolling chassis w/o engine or trans when I started my frame off retrofit. I installed a Hilux turbo diesel w/ auto trans/transfer. The reason I tell you is I have a lot of the FJ40 stock parts (everything on your firewall less fan blower unit) battery base support (I used the tray) and I installed a toyota 4Runner brake booster. The clutch petal and linkage, sheet metal at the bottom of motor & firewall plus all the dash linkage for the transfer. It's all on the shelf in case you can't find something.
