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No check engine light.Throwing a check engine light
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No check engine light.Throwing a check engine light
Thanks for the suggestion, I was not aware of that cold start injector, do you know how I can test if it's working properly?There is a cold start injector on the passenger side of the intake plenum. If that injector stays open after start/warm up, it could cause a rich condition. Otherwise it could be a vacuum leak somewhere. I recall spending more than a couple days looking for a vacuum leak after putting in new head gaskets on my 1990, and eventually found there was a crack in the gasket between the intake manifold and plenum. Best of luck
I guess I'm still learning about the car and this particular engine. I thought about running AMSOIL powerfoam and seeing how that goes. Also, bleed the brakes one more time and hope to see some improvement, if not I may need a new master cylinder.There is usually a change in rpm when you shift from park to drive, and your settings seem alright. These engines are super loud but i don't hear much in the video.
Did you bleed the brakes correctly? Rear drums out of adjustment can give a low pedal or could still be air in there somewhere. Sometimes bleeding with an old master cylinder can cause an issue especially if its been sitting because your pushing the pedal to the floor past where it usually goes.
So I tested the EGR modulator and it appeared to be clogged so I got a new one from the dealer. Now the car is idling low, any thoughts?There is usually a change in rpm when you shift from park to drive, and your settings seem alright. These engines are super loud but i don't hear much in the video.
Did you bleed the brakes correctly? Rear drums out of adjustment can give a low pedal or could still be air in there somewhere. Sometimes bleeding with an old master cylinder can cause an issue especially if its been sitting because your pushing the pedal to the floor past where it usually goes.
Did you find that replacing the VSV solved your issue? I've been troubleshooting the same problem and also just got to the VSV not passing air through.I just took out the three VSV valves on the passenger side including the AC idle up. I tested them with a multimeter and a battery (followed this procedure). It appears the EGR VSV (in the picture) is not working. I cant blow air in or out, and when connected to a battery it didn't open or close. Ordered a used one from ebay and hope this makes the engine run better. I wonder if the old EGR modulator was hiding the malfunctioning of this VSV?
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Yes, once I replaced the VSV, its been running well.Did you find that replacing the VSV solved your issue? I've been troubleshooting the same problem and also just got to the VSV not passing air through.
On a Toyota, if it's isn't broken, don't fix it. Toyota OEM parts are better than aftermarket.What do y'all think about replacing parts like oxygen sensors and radiator that have are not broken (yet)?