New owner of 2nd Gen 4Runner - recommended maintenance (1 Viewer)

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Jan 11, 2009
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There is a cold start injector on the passenger side of the intake plenum. If that injector stays open after start/warm up, it could cause a rich condition. Otherwise it could be a vacuum leak somewhere. I recall spending more than a couple days looking for a vacuum leak after putting in new head gaskets on my 1990, and eventually found there was a crack in the gasket between the intake manifold and plenum. Best of luck
 
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There is a cold start injector on the passenger side of the intake plenum. If that injector stays open after start/warm up, it could cause a rich condition. Otherwise it could be a vacuum leak somewhere. I recall spending more than a couple days looking for a vacuum leak after putting in new head gaskets on my 1990, and eventually found there was a crack in the gasket between the intake manifold and plenum. Best of luck
Thanks for the suggestion, I was not aware of that cold start injector, do you know how I can test if it's working properly?
 
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Update:
UPDATE:
So I finally got to work on the 4runner. I ended up with:
  • new O2 sensor,
  • most of the vacuum lines with the LC engineering kit
  • PS air control valve
  • new fuel filter
  • new PCV valve
  • added an oil catch can
  • cleaned the plenum and gasket (had lots of black deposits)
  • cleaned the Cold Start Injector (also lots of black deposit on it)
  • cleaned the throttle body and new gasket ( it had oil in it when I took it off)
  • new - used brake fluid reservoir (from a 99 4runner)
  • speed bleeders on the front calipers
Prior to doing all of this it was idling below 500rpms, running rich and spewing black smoke. Now it runs much better, although it's idling just above 1000rpms when in park and around 800prms when in drive. Not sure what is going on there, I do notice some "chatter" in the engine coming from the passenger side, took a video of it.
Could there be something I'm missing?
Also, my brakes are also not working the best. The truck came with the rudimentary ABS system that ran the brake and PS through the ABS actuator. I ended up removing the actuator, unplugging the ABS sensor in the rear differential, the computer inside, and the module under the hood. I bled them twice (including the LSPV) but the pedal still goes all the way to the floor. Any ideas?
 
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There is usually a change in rpm when you shift from park to drive, and your settings seem alright. These engines are super loud but i don't hear much in the video.

Did you bleed the brakes correctly? Rear drums out of adjustment can give a low pedal or could still be air in there somewhere. Sometimes bleeding with an old master cylinder can cause an issue especially if its been sitting because your pushing the pedal to the floor past where it usually goes.
 
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There is usually a change in rpm when you shift from park to drive, and your settings seem alright. These engines are super loud but i don't hear much in the video.

Did you bleed the brakes correctly? Rear drums out of adjustment can give a low pedal or could still be air in there somewhere. Sometimes bleeding with an old master cylinder can cause an issue especially if its been sitting because your pushing the pedal to the floor past where it usually goes.
I guess I'm still learning about the car and this particular engine. I thought about running AMSOIL powerfoam and seeing how that goes. Also, bleed the brakes one more time and hope to see some improvement, if not I may need a new master cylinder.
 
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There is usually a change in rpm when you shift from park to drive, and your settings seem alright. These engines are super loud but i don't hear much in the video.

Did you bleed the brakes correctly? Rear drums out of adjustment can give a low pedal or could still be air in there somewhere. Sometimes bleeding with an old master cylinder can cause an issue especially if its been sitting because your pushing the pedal to the floor past where it usually goes.
So I tested the EGR modulator and it appeared to be clogged so I got a new one from the dealer. Now the car is idling low, any thoughts?
 
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Have you checked the timing?

You can adjust the idle speed on the throttle body.
192562d1502131792-3vze-adjusting-idle-help-please-3vzeidleadjustment.jpg
 
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I just took out the three VSV valves on the passenger side including the AC idle up. I tested them with a multimeter and a battery (followed this procedure). It appears the EGR VSV (in the picture) is not working. I cant blow air in or out, and when connected to a battery it didn't open or close. Ordered a used one from ebay and hope this makes the engine run better. I wonder if the old EGR modulator was hiding the malfunctioning of this VSV?

IMG_3639.jpg
 
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
83
The adjustment of the rear brake drums can have a dramatic effect on the pedal height at which the brakes start engaging. If the rear drum brake adjustment mechanism is working properly, you can get the mechanism to move the brake shoes to proper clearance with the drums by having the vehicle rolling in reverse and then apply the emergency brake. It may take several times of doing this to get them adjusted properly if they are very far out. One sign that they might be out of adjustment is if you have to pull the emergency brake handle very far out before they engage. The difference that properly adjusted back brakes can make to brake pedal height and overall stopping ability on these 2nd gen 4Runners is significant.
 

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