New member with 72' FJ40

[bikersmurf]

The front axle is sitting too far forward, even the shock angle is off...
Most likely front springs need to be flipped around...

I agree than the front axle is further forward than the stock position. But, before you go changing anything, keep in mind that many 40 owners move the front axle forward (and rear backwards) to stretch the wheelbase from the stock 90".

The shocks may lean backwards, but that's an easy fix by swapping in some Ford shock towers and welding them where you want them. Ford towers will also allow you to run longer shocks, allowing for more spring travel.

Also, if the Saginaw box was positioned appropriately to the axle, moving the axle will open a large can of worms.

Is the axle perpendicular to the center axis of the truck (parallel to the fire wall)?

Is the draglink more or less parallel to the axle? (it's ok if it's somewhat forward on the pitman arm end... but in moderation)

If the stock draglink was used, it likely needs to be shortened. when the wheels are pointed straight ahead, is the pitman arm pointed straight back?

Is the pitman arm indexed appropriately on the steering box? If you temporarily remove the drag link, then turn the steering wheel side to side counting the turns to determine the halfway point... at this point, you want the pitman arm pointing straight back. Now, the draglink needs to be adjusted/modified to fit.

 

[bikersmurf]

The one other thing you should try to address is the draglinks angle relative to the ground. The Tie Rod Ends used, and the absence of a dropped pitman arm, appear to be making this angle steeper than need be. This will increase bump steer. While you're at it you should see if you can improve this.

Have you checked if there is a Clubhouse in your area? Many of the things you'll learn about your truck can be more easily explained by meeting a fellow cruiserhead in person.

Here's a link... https://forum.ih8mud.com/clubhouse/ (or at top of page)

And one more thought, stock caster of 1 deg (on a stock axle) will have the pinion flange (driveshaft mounting surface) 90 deg to the ground. With 12.50 or wider tires, more caster is recommended. 3-4 deg will improve your 40s road manners (specifically returning to center). This will point the pinion flange slightly more towards the ground. The castor is adjusted by adding steel wedges between the springs and the axle (many lift springs include this).

The only other alignment adjustment is Toe In. (Camber is fixed from the factory)

 

[dirtyjobs]

Im out out room to post more pics up but I am reading through everything else to get caught up on possibilities as well as components.

Is the pitman arm supposed to be bottom end pointed rearward?? Mines straight up and down with wheels forward.

 

[bikersmurf]

Im out out room to post more pics up but I am reading through everything else to get caught up on possibilities as well as components.

Is the pitman arm supposed to be bottom end pointed rearward?? Mines straight up and down with wheels forward.

Yes the arm should be pointed rearward. For more pics, buy a silver star, or post to Photobucket and cut and paste the IMG code into your post.

 

[dirtyjobs]

Ok lets try this; pics of teh front end

 

[35snmud]

Silver star

If you buy a silver star you can post as many pic's as you want. It will also be the best $20 you ever spent on your cruiser

 

[dirtyjobs]

I hear you dude, Im impressed with all the assistance so far and I have no problem paying for info that saves me hundreds, maybe thousand of $$ over time.

 

[35snmud]

Mud has some really awesome people with ton's of knowledge and they are always willing to lend a hand. The silver star just helps keep the site up and running. It's a bunch of work to keep a site like this going.

I don't know what your plans are for future, but if you are planning on doing any serious wheeling you'll soon grow tired of the manual steering. A power steering (saginaw) upgrade is the way to go. Depends on how far you want to take it. You can swap the knuckles for the larger bolt pattern knuckles. While your in there you may as well upgrade to disc brakes on the front. Then a high steer setup to keep things out of the rocks. When you get all of that done you can add hydro assist to the power steering

This page is your friend IH8MUD.com - Technical Tons of info and how to's. Once you get a star you will be able to search more efficiently as well.

Main thing is to get a plan laid out so you don't have to keep redoing things. Then you get pieces and make upgrades in order to achieve your final plan. Save some $$

Enjoy

 

[bikersmurf]

First off IGNORE EVERYTHING I've said up to this point about your steering!

You've got "stock" power steering on your truck... Not Saginaw which I thought you had.
What is the build Month of your 72?
Do you have round taillights or multi colored rectangular ones?

Your relay-rod and drag-link are too long, which is why you're having trouble turning left. if you leave the tie-rod (which goes between the two wheels) alone, you can fix this problem... but there's a bigger problem. The end of the drag-link attached to the bel-crank is further back than the axle. It should be further forward... and I don't know the solution. It would help if it came to the center (or top) of the tie-rod, rather than the bottom.

You've got no steering damper installed... it's good to run one to protect things.

You likely need a castor correction shim. After it's installation trim off the excess U-bolt.

The left shock rubs on the relay rod. Your shocks angle backwards.

The bump stops don't line up with the axle.

 

[dirtyjobs]

Mud has some really awesome people with ton's of knowledge and they are always willing to lend a hand. The silver star just helps keep the site up and running. It's a bunch of work to keep a site like this going.

I don't know what your plans are for future, but if you are planning on doing any serious wheeling you'll soon grow tired of the manual steering. A power steering (saginaw) upgrade is the way to go. Depends on how far you want to take it. You can swap the knuckles for the larger bolt pattern knuckles. While your in there you may as well upgrade to disc brakes on the front. Then a high steer setup to keep things out of the rocks. When you get all of that done you can add hydro assist to the power steering

This page is your friend IH8MUD.com - Technical Tons of info and how to's. Once you get a star you will be able to search more efficiently as well.

Main thing is to get a plan laid out so you don't have to keep redoing things. Then you get pieces and make upgrades in order to achieve your final plan. Save some $$

Enjoy

That’s good advice. My plan as of now is getting it up to par as far as road worthiness goes. There is a leak in the exhaust manifold right where all the tubes come together, the carb needs tuned and I have no turn sigs. I want to keep it capable off road but improve her everyday driving comfort and reliability for the foreseeable future.

 

[subzali]

I think if he moves his axle back like others have stated his steering problems will go away for the most part.

 

[35snmud]

Oh....and about your steering problem Like bikersmurf said above. Pull your drag link off of the pitman arm and turn the wheel side to side. Find center and then see if the pitman arm is pointing straight back. If it's not make it so it is. You may be able to do this by adjusting the link from your steering box to the pitman arm. Then make sure your wheels are straight and adjust the length of the drag link so it will fit up to the pitman. From the pic's it looks like you need a shorter pitman arm and could use some drop to it to get the geometry right.

Once again, if you are thinking of power steering this can all be corrected then. To get by, at least look at the things above. It will help, probably won't fix it all but it will help.

 

[dirtyjobs]

First off IGNORE EVERYTHING I've said up to this point about your steering!

You've got "stock" power steering on your truck... Not Saginaw which I thought you had.
What is the build Month of your 72?
Do you have round taillights or multi colored rectangular ones?

Your relay-rod and drag-link are too long, which is why you're having trouble turning left. if you leave the tie-rod (which goes between the two wheels) alone, you can fix this problem... but there's a bigger problem. The end of the drag-link attached to the bel-crank is further back than the axle. It should be further forward... and I don't know the solution. It would help if it came to the center (or top) of the tie-rod, rather than the bottom.

You've got no steering damper installed... it's good to run one to protect things.

You likely need a castor correction shim. After it's installation trim off the excess U-bolt.

The left shock rubs on the relay rod. Your shocks angle backwards.

The bump stops don't line up with the axle.

Inside the Cab says it was made in APRIL of 72'. The tail lights are integrated into the rear bumper and are solid red. (aftermarket?)

Hmm, so I have many small problems associated with this lift kit I assume?
Excellent!
So is the easiest move here to move the axle backward?
Or do I try to fix all the angle/length problems?
Do you think the appointment I have tomorrow for an alignment is even worth the trouble then?
Should I not drive it around town until this is all corrected?
Any thoughts?

 

[grant5127]

I would move it back where it should be.... looks stupid the way it is...

That's just me tho...........

 

[DSRTRDR]

Only the truest pimps rock 72's...

/this\

 

[DSRTRDR]

I second the idea to hook up with a local club expert and discuss . . .

 

[Sando Serious]

Only the truest pimps rock 72's...

this must be true

Absolutely true. No doubt.

 

[bikersmurf]

Ok lets try this; pics of teh front end

Oh....and about your steering problem Like bikersmurf said above. Pull your drag link off of the pitman arm and turn the wheel side to side. Find center and then see if the pitman arm is pointing straight back. If it's not make it so it is. You may be able to do this by adjusting the link from your steering box to the pitman arm. Then make sure your wheels are straight and adjust the length of the drag link so it will fit up to the pitman. From the pic's it looks like you need a shorter pitman arm and could use some drop to it to get the geometry right.

Once again, if you are thinking of power steering this can all be corrected then. To get by, at least look at the things above. It will help, probably won't fix it all but it will help.

I don't see how a different pitman arm will help. He's got stock 40 steering... Not Saginaw.

The issue revolves around the position of the Bel Crank, and steering linkage adjustment.

I'd love to know a simple soultion... You'll need to decide if you want to move the axle back to it's stock position or keep it where it is.

 

[dirtyjobs]

If I'm understanding what needs to happen in principal, I think the axle needs come back. I'm going to dig into my folder of reciepts and see if the correct lift kit was installed. Not sure what else the culprit could be. Hopefully only the springs need to be flipped around.
Its all good, pimps don't cry..

 

[35snmud]

I don't see how a different pitman arm will help. He's got stock 40 steering... Not Saginaw.

The issue revolves around the position of the Bel Crank, and steering linkage adjustment.

I'd love to know a simple soultion... You'll need to decide if you want to move the axle back to it's stock position or keep it where it is.

We are talking about the same thing here. Bel crank, pitman arm. Needs to be centered, shorter and lower if he wants to keep the axle where it is. Not sure if they make parts to be able to do this or not. Looks like the PO did the job 1/2 way. Cheapest fix would probably be to move the axle back to stock. If it was me and I had the cash, I would convert to saginaw and high steer.

Sent from my SkyRaider Thunderbolt using IH8MUD