New HZJ73 owner and mud member

[spiritofgweek]

Hi folks
I just picked up a mostly stock 1992 73 series with the 1HZ (Japanese market, already imported to USA). I’ve always admired cruisers and after spending a lot of time in Central America for work I fell in love with the 70 series. This is by far the oldest car I’ve ever owned and my first diesel so I have a lot of learning to do.

I like how these things look stock so all I’m planning on doing is a 2” lift and some bigger tires.

I’m curious to hear from 70 owners and 1Hz owners what parts I should expect to replace, any reliability upgrades, consumables that are hard to get, etc. Since I frequent Central America where the BJ70 and 1HZ hilux are common I have the opportunity to check junkyards and shops for parts assuming they’re not LHD specific.

Thanks in advance for any knowledge!

 

[Rigster]

Hi folks
I just picked up a mostly stock 1992 73 series with the 1HZ (Japanese market, already imported to USA). I’ve always admired cruisers and after spending a lot of time in Central America for work I fell in love with the 70 series. This is by far the oldest car I’ve ever owned and my first diesel so I have a lot of learning to do.

I like how these things look stock so all I’m planning on doing is a 2” lift and some bigger tires.

I’m curious to hear from 70 owners and 1Hz owners what parts I should expect to replace, any reliability upgrades, consumables that are hard to get, etc. Since I frequent Central America where the BJ70 and 1HZ hilux are common I have the opportunity to check junkyards and shops for parts assuming they’re not LHD specific.

Thanks in advance for any knowledge!

Welcome! As I am sure you will soon discover, folks will NOT believe a word you say unless there are PICTURES!!! (Tongue-in-cheek) But we do love pictures.

I would start with anything rubber on the vehicle, especially if it is original. Fuel lines, coolant hoses, belts. You do not state the mileage, so if it is under 100,000kms, I would also replace the timing belt if it is original. Having a maintenance history would be gold.

You will find a wealth of information on this forum via search, and checking folks' build threads. Congrats on the purchase!

 

[Broski]

Welcome to Mud
Pictures or it didn't happen!

 

[DetectiveFat]

Hi folks
I just picked up a mostly stock 1992 73 series with the 1HZ (Japanese market, already imported to USA). I’ve always admired cruisers and after spending a lot of time in Central America for work I fell in love with the 70 series. This is by far the oldest car I’ve ever owned and my first diesel so I have a lot of learning to do.

I like how these things look stock so all I’m planning on doing is a 2” lift and some bigger tires.

I’m curious to hear from 70 owners and 1Hz owners what parts I should expect to replace, any reliability upgrades, consumables that are hard to get, etc. Since I frequent Central America where the BJ70 and 1HZ hilux are common I have the opportunity to check junkyards and shops for parts assuming they’re not LHD specific.

Thanks in advance for any knowledge!

Hello

From personal experience first check everything for rust. Especially the wheel wells, and under the folding windshield. These places just love to rust and suck to replace. As others said just for peace of mind I’d change all the fluids, timing belt and fuel filter. Also make sure you have all the mudflaps. Mine was missing them causing the entire rear bumper to rust really bad. Had to change almost everything. The car is already very reliable so just enjoy.

Regards
Jan

 

[Felde]

Hi
2i2X @Jan and @Rigster
Is your rig even existing? No pics yet

I have a BJ73. Other than a thoroug maintenance, I'd recommend as per my experience:
- brake service
- steering gear (tierod ends and all bushings; prevents death wobble).
(just because wasn't mentioned yet)
For rust:
- Foldable windshield / upper edge firewall, I.p. the notch the 'cushion' seal sits on. There is a switch that disengage the wipers when the windshield is folded down. Check under that boot. There is a simiilar, unoccupied hole in the other side of the firewall to hold that switch in LHD / RHD setup. Plug that hole: It is an entry port for water to enter the cabin if the cushion seal is weak.
To fold the windshield you need to move the FRP-top. While there: Check the seals top to body.
- With FRP hardtop: Check the window frames and seals. The frames are metal and NLA thus worth preserving.
You would barely notice the FRP-Top or window seals leaking, but the water runs into the side wall and even into the rocker sills and causes rust there.
- Thus, remove the interior trim panels in the back and check behind from inside, in particular where the side panel and the rear wheel well meet. Put rust preventative in that gap (e.g FluidFilm or Ovatrol)
- Check the undercarriage for rust, I.p the hardlines for brakes and fuel. Check the rubber joints in the lines.
- Check the wheel wells and wheel arches.
The wheel wells have a foamy looking coating / sound deadner that cracks at old ages and might have rust unde rit. I had it removed and the wheel wells painted.
The inner edge of the wheel arches collect a lot of dirt. Remove that crust and conserve that area really well with a good coating. It is very hard to inspect and always full of dirt, so a good coating is all you can do..
- Remove floor and check footwells and floor panels. There is asphalt based sound deadner, which cracks at old age and might have rust under it.
- Remove taillights and check behind
- Where the fuel filler is, there is a cover in the wheel well that provides access to the filler neck. Remove and check the area and the filler neck. That area is open from the underside and exposed to read dirt, salt, water.
- On the mid run you might want to drop the tank and check the pickup tube (prone to rust) and the tank itself (between floor and skidplate)
- Check the rear ends from inside, I.p the storage box where the jack is stored. People sometimes drop stuff, rags or gloves in there, which get damp and cause rust.
- Remove the trim pieces on the rockers in the front doors. Their clip holes also provide good access to look into the rockers, e.g. by endoscopy.
- Remove fender flairs (if fitted and not glued on) and check behind and around the fasteners.
- Conserve the front tip of the hood from inside.
- Remove door trim (including plastic cover) and check doors from inside. Make sure the drain holes are free and conserve doors from inside. Put the plastic covers back on, too. (3mm butyl rope and heavy duty trash bags work well).
- Conserve the inner side of the front fenders and wheel well, I.p. close to the A pillar. There is a cavity that can be reached from the undercarriage, which is exposed to road dirt, salt, water...
Enjoy !
Cheers Ralf

 

[spiritofgweek]

Thanks all for the tips and the thorough write up on common rust spots. Luckily car is complete with all mudflaps and garaged in Nevada. I’ve ordered timing belt, tensioner, fuel, oil, air filter and I’ll be inspecting for rust and what lines have been replaced already. Car sits at ~115000kms. Here’s a pic and bonus picture of Honduran Red Cross troopy I saw last week.

 

[spiritofgweek]

Just documenting my work here.
Car received with 112,260 kms. Allegedly no work done since being received from Japan about year ago

Sticker in engine bay reports timing belt changed at 69,000 kms in 2021 (Ordered new one anyways and tensioner)
Batteries have been replaced
None of the hoses feel squishy or sticky
Rust is extremely minimal

List of issues
-Headlight out
-Radio does not turn on
-Power door locks non functional
-Engine roughness on first cold start (10 seconds) (30 Fahrenheit)
-Small cracks on fuel line (Tank to filter)
-Dash temperature sensor display shows "E" for inside and outside intermittently
-"GLOW" and "ECD" fuse slots empty

Performed oil change, oil filter change
~9.5l of 10W-40 oil
Wix 51368 filter
Oil sensor on the dash still reports its low even though dipstick shows oil is right at the full mark. I'll trust the dipstick.

Replaced fuel filter
OEM 23303-64010
Engine fired right up after replacing but died shortly after while idling. Maybe I did a poor job priming it? Maybe the cracks are letting air in? Primed again and seems to be running fine now. Need to get that line replaced ASAP.

Replaced engine air filter
OEM 17801-61030

Having trouble replicating the rough cold start. At the time I was unaware of the function of the glow plugs and the significance of the indicator light. Not waiting for the pre heat may have been my issue here? Tried to replace the missing "GLOW" fuse but there is nothing there for the fuse to plug into. Same for the "ECD" slot.

Radio troubleshooting (Shouldnt be the highest priority but I'm not driving in silence)
First stop was the fuse box and sure enough the "Head" fuse was blown. Threw a new one in expecting it to go too and surprisingly it survived. Radio turns on and the station display works but no sound, not even static. Cassette player is also behaving very strange. Pulled the unit out and there is corrosion on the back mostly on the cassette player. Also looks like mice or something were chewing on the insulation of the wiring harness. I really wanted to keep the original radio but I'm not going to spend much time troubleshooting this. I think they all look hideous but I ordered a new stereo and a couple 200watt 24v-12v voltage regulators.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Just documenting my work here.
Car received with 112,260 kms. Allegedly no work done since being received from Japan about year ago

Sticker in engine bay reports timing belt changed at 69,000 kms in 2021 (Ordered new one anyways and tensioner)
Batteries have been replaced
None of the hoses feel squishy or sticky
Rust is extremely minimal

List of issues
-Headlight out
-Radio does not turn on
-Power door locks non functional
-Engine roughness on first cold start (10 seconds) (30 Fahrenheit)
-Small cracks on fuel line (Tank to filter)
-Dash temperature sensor display shows "E" for inside and outside intermittently
-"GLOW" and "ECD" fuse slots empty

Performed oil change, oil filter change
~9.5l of 10W-40 oil
Wix 51368 filter
Oil sensor on the dash still reports its low even though dipstick shows oil is right at the full mark. I'll trust the dipstick.

Replaced fuel filter
OEM 23303-64010
Engine fired right up after replacing but died shortly after while idling. Maybe I did a poor job priming it? Maybe the cracks are letting air in? Primed again and seems to be running fine now. Need to get that line replaced ASAP.

Replaced engine air filter
OEM 17801-61030

Having trouble replicating the rough cold start. At the time I was unaware of the function of the glow plugs and the significance of the indicator light. Not waiting for the pre heat may have been my issue here? Tried to replace the missing "GLOW" fuse but there is nothing there for the fuse to plug into. Same for the "ECD" slot.

Radio troubleshooting (Shouldnt be the highest priority but I'm not driving in silence)
First stop was the fuse box and sure enough the "Head" fuse was blown. Threw a new one in expecting it to go too and surprisingly it survived. Radio turns on and the station display works but no sound, not even static. Cassette player is also behaving very strange. Pulled the unit out and there is corrosion on the back mostly on the cassette player. Also looks like mice or something were chewing on the insulation of the wiring harness. I really wanted to keep the original radio but I'm not going to spend much time troubleshooting this. I think they all look hideous but I ordered a new stereo and a couple 200watt 24v-12v voltage regulators.

The glow cycle, when it's cold, takes awhile. I wait for the light and first click, then wait for the second click (passenger footwell glow timer) before finally starting on first cold start of the day.

My first things to check would be the batteries (I use AGM) and the cooling system. Thermocure is great for cleaning out the water jacket/rad if it looks like it hasn't been done for a while.

Welcome!

 

[Broski]

Sweet looking Rig!!

Get rid of the wix oil filter !!