New guy introduction and questions about LC100 (2000) truck purchase/pricing (3 Viewers)

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Location
LA
Hi everyone,

I'm new to the forums, but an LC has been on my radar for many years. I'm a long time BMW guy, and love the car culture that I see here in SoCal. I enjoy doing all my own maintenance, and I look forward to learning the ins and outs of a new ride (I've never owned a Toyota before). I've been longing for an LC for a long time because I need something more practical and durable than my BMWs for the camping/hiking/touring around the beautiful state of CA that my wife and I do regularly. We're finally in a financial position to be able to justify a 3rd car, and it's time to make my LC dream come true!

All that to say, I've spent the last few months looking around on the forums and the various for sale sites, and I've found something with some potential. Here is a truck that I've found near me. To me, this looks to be in pretty great condition, no real rust to be seen (at least in the pictures, of course I'll look more thoroughly when/if I go look at it), mileage isn't too crazy, and it seems to have had a couple of the big things changed (water pump/timing belt). When looking around online, it seems like I still see folks balk at the price a bit for year models with this many miles ($14k). Is this a reasonable price, or can anyone suggest what may be fair for a truck in this condition?

I think I have a pretty good idea of what to look out for (brakes, water pump, rust, timing belt, condition of the interior, etc.), but the prices are a bit confusing since I haven't been tracking the market for long enough to have a baseline for what pre-COVID, COVID, and the post-COVID world are asking in terms of price. So, anything you all can offer in terms of advice there will be much appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Looks to me like a reasonable offer.
I just bought mine privately with 269k, 20 years in the hands of the 2nd owner, well serviced, some more wear inside than yours and paint needed polish. Same corrosion status, wheels were not as good as yours, but they would never have stayed on (picked up my new ones today) :)

I paid 8.5k up in the Bay.

BUT: I was keeping my eyes open for 4-6 months. What you seem to have found is well in range in my eyes. i always said 15k with ~250k is the normal price, let‘s wait until somebody sells w/o knowing what he has and I got lucky ^^

The difference is now going in suspensions, tires, bumpers…
 
I, personally, would not buy a 2000. 1998-1999 and 2001-2007. Too many guys on this forum having to replace transmissions in MY 2000 100 Series.

Some may disagree, but I’d recommend researching the issue before making an offer.
 
Were there specific build dates that were affected with the transmission "failures"?
 
I, personally, would not buy a 2000. 1998-1999 and 2001-2007. Too many guys on this forum having to replace transmissions in MY 2000 100 Series.

Some may disagree, but I’d recommend researching the issue before making an offer.

Huh? Got any threads showing this issue?
 
I personally would not buy from a dealer. Especially not a dealer like this one. Set up Craigslist search alerts, filter by private party and wait. Any small-time dealer like this just bought this car at auction, probably for like $5,000, gave it a quick detail and listed it for 14,000. The don't know anything about it and unless you really do your research you could likely buy a problem rig. Wait for the right rig to come along and you will know it. Also be super skeptical of someone who "bought it to go overlanding six months ago but decided to go another direction." That screams buyer's remorse over a purchase that likely has issues they were not aware of.

1. Is the brake booster original?
2. What about the heater Ts?
3. Has it been in CA it's whole life? Or did it start off in the rust belt?
4. Ball joints (expensive to do it right).
5. Radiator?
6. CV axles?

Not trying to scare you, but if you don't see all those things done in the service history set aside a decent chunk for repairs. Even if you do it all yourself like many here, there's a good chance you are going to spend a small fortune in parts.
 
I say keep an eye here or on a fb cruiser group and buy from an individual. Then you can get maintenance records, a story and yes, stay away from a dealer.
 
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Reasonably priced.

The 2000 transmission issues, typically shows before 100K. I've seem 2000, with 400K miles, still working great. Without every any issue.

I did notice aftermarket muffler and something black sprayed on undercarriage parts. Not bad things, but makes me want to look closer during PPI.

Timing belt sticker, is a Toyota. Which likely then done at Toyota. I'd drill down into what parts replaced. Dealership, tend to not replace FB, idler pulleys or tensioner. Nor use a torque wrench. Again not bad things, just red flag in PPI.

Keep in mind at 24 years and 200K, it needs a good inspection & baseline.
 
I have a 2000 LX470. I am currently at 247k with zero issues with the transmission. I think that is a nice Land Cruiser. Looks super clean and well maintained. If it is your dream, pull the trigger and make that dream come true.

It's what I did.


If you want to continue to look, get on Facebook and search for Hasan. He sold me my 100 series. Top notch guy. He is the expert and very well priced.
 
I, personally, would not buy a 2000. 1998-1999 and 2001-2007. Too many guys on this forum having to replace transmissions in MY 2000 100 Series.

Some may disagree, but I’d recommend researching the issue before making an offer.
First I’d heard of this. I’ll do some digging. I was looking at 2000+ because in 2000 they went from 2 to 4 pinion in the diff, which was an issue with the 99s.
 
It has some corrosion and spray painting to hide those.
 
Huh? Got any threads showing this issue?

This is a thread that alludes to it. There are several threads with similar plot lines.

My post only represents my personal preference away from 2000 MY, not an indictment of them.

I’ve been reading 100 Series threads since 2003 and my take-away has been to shop 2001+ if I ever look to replace my 1999.

Somewhere in my brain fog, I remember a post/claim that 2000 MY trannies were built in a different plant (for some reason) than 98/99/2001+.
 

This is a thread that alludes to it. There are several threads with similar plot lines.

My post only represents my personal preference away from 2000 MY, not an indictment of them.

I’ve been reading 100 Series threads since 2003 and my take-away has been to shop 2001+ if I ever look to replace my 1999.

Somewhere in my brain fog, I remember a post/claim that 2000 MY trannies were built in a different plant (for some reason) than 98/99/2001+.

Got it, thanks for jogging my memory.

Here's another thread discussing the issue - 2000 LC Transmission Failure at 50K.

See also (for future reference) 2000 transmission site:ih8mud.com.
 
Ask for a carfax report or the VIN and do your own due diligence/research … even a simple Google search using the VIN should show previous auctions if any. If sold privately, it’d probably be $10-11k range. Any LC in this range is going to need baselining … budget another $2-3k and have some fun whilst learning about your new obsession and setting her up to last another 15-20 years. Your attitude will define your enjoyment… good luck
 
First I’d heard of this. I’ll do some digging. I was looking at 2000+ because in 2000 they went from 2 to 4 pinion in the diff, which was an issue with the 99s.
I've been watching this and other forums for a long time and what I avoid is the opposite - anything after 1999. The overwhelming majority of front diff failures are 4 pinion - because of atrac. Also do your research on rogue VSC, very scary. The Land Cruiser / LX sweet spot is 1995 to 1999 in my view, especially if you are a DIYer interested in reliability and low maintenance costs.
 
Ask for a carfax report or the VIN and do your own due diligence/research … even a simple Google search using the VIN should show previous auctions if any. If sold privately, it’d probably be $10-11k range. Any LC in this range is going to need baselining … budget another $2-3k and have some fun whilst learning about your new obsession and setting her up to last another 15-20 years. Your attitude will define your enjoyment… good luck
Thanks a bunch. Yeah, I'll definitely be doing the carfax thing. It's good information you provided on the price. Since I'm new to the LC world, I'm trying to get a feel for the market these days, and it helps to understand what the pricing is for certain amounts of miles from private v. dealer, and what maintenance to look out for. Another I've had my eye on is this guy. Seems to be in good shape, no rust to speak of, and they've done a lot of recent maintenance for the types of things that are going to need replacing on these things. (Autotrader - page unavailable - https://www.autotrader.com/marketplace/buy/toyota/land-cruiser/2001/JTEHT05J112009478?listingId=700767829)
 
I paid $8600 for mine from a dealer 8 years ago for reference. It took me 3-5 months of looking. I think thats a really high price. Keep looking, there must be something better out there for you...
 
Thanks friend! I actually did wind up finding another one! I wound up grabbing a 2002 with 203k on it from NorCal and driving it back to SoCal. I'm 3 weeks in and love it! Already changed all the fluids (except radiator and transmission), and just did the valve cover gaskets last week.
 

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