Builds "new" fj60

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Yes, I do think the bolts run through the tank and bolted the other end.
I think Man a free made one a long time ago. That’s the only one I know of.

I opened it up and took some pics and you were right. If only I could find some info on the bushing used for the Man-a-fre one. I found it mentioned a few times but only one pic that looks like the one i have.
 
Dude, #2 that spark plug!

You're learning a lot from this truck, good thing you love it!

On top of that ugly spark plug, I checked compression and 4 of my cylinders were at 125psi and 1 was at 150 but #2 was at 105. :frown:

I have learned a lot and though Im sometimes nervous that things are going to go wrong I'm also confident Ill be able to handle whatever it throws my way... except for electrical, I hate electrical.
 
I went to my mechanic to have my oil changed and while the car was lifted the tech ended up finding an exhaust leak. There was a hole the size of a dime right behind the muffler. I came to the conclusion that I would just cut off the tail pipe. A day or two later the bracket holding the tail pipe broke off which Im assuming added enough stress to crack the pipe where the hole was. Lucky for me, my landlord was having the kitchen remodeled so I was able to borrow a Sawzall from one of the guys. Not the prettiest cut but it sounds real mean.

Next I wanted to build a platform and have a place where I could lock things up since I ride around without doors. Before I could do that I had to take care of the bolts poking through the cargo area. I planned to add some joists and have the bolts run through them so they'd have better support. Then I changed my mind and now I don't want bolts poking through at all. Getting the bolts out has been a nightmare and one seems to be locked with some stuff that looks like carbon. I thought about fuel tank straps but wasn't sure how to go about that. For now Ive settled on ratchet straps until I get things sorted. I want a stock tank or for this tank to be mounted in a better way.

As for the sending unit gasket, the new one I cut leaked but I think that had to do with the bolts and not the gasket itself. This time around ill be using thick cork. I hope it works.

I finally called ONE Toyota in Oakland this morning to ask about recalls. I was told that the fuel tank was taken care of in 1992 and the seat belt in 1993.

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Before spending money I don't have on an OEM tank I went to Home Depot and picked up a few zinc plated flat steel bars to use as straps for my fuel tank. Im a little nervous about how well they'll hold up to my 40+ gallon tank. I did mount the tank without the skid plate to not stress the straps with anymore weight than necessary. I also fear that the nuts for the rear leaf springs are too close to the tank so Im trying to find a bushing or cushion to ease my mind a bit. I've come to the conclusion that I need to get new rear springs ASAP so I have a reason to pay someone to flip the bolt around.

I also built a platform with a 2x4 and tomorrow Ill finish building a box using finished plywood.

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I wouldn't flip the bolts around, then you have to drop tank to remove them.

Just get bolts that are 1/2" shorter.

If there isn't any markings on the tank from precious tank/bolt contact, just leave it be. Did I miss that there is assured contact?
 
On top of that ugly spark plug, I checked compression and 4 of my cylinders were at 125psi and 1 was at 150 but #2 was at 105. :frown:

I have learned a lot and though Im sometimes nervous that things are going to go wrong I'm also confident Ill be able to handle whatever it throws my way... except for electrical, I hate electrical.

Do sea foam to decarb it a couple times, check compression. If that doesn’t fix it then do a Valve adjustment. If that doesn’t fix it then flush the oil and run engine restore and 20-50 vr1 race oil (probably should be running this anyway if in warmer climate). If that doesn’t fix it flush the cooling system and run some straight water and block sealer through the cooling system.
 
I wouldn't flip the bolts around, then you have to drop tank to remove them.

Just get bolts that are 1/2" shorter.

If there isn't any markings on the tank from precious tank/bolt contact, just leave it be. Did I miss that there is assured contact?

Good idea! Contact was definitely made just don't know how old or how often.
 
Drove down to San Diego with very few hiccups 2 weeks ago. I found a leak in the rubber hose going from the fuel filler to the tank. At some point fireballs shot out from the exhaust but otherwise smooth :rofl:. I then drove in to the Grapevine at about 70 mph and in less than a minute I was flooring it and only doing 40 mph. I was passed up by every single big rig. Talk about a humbling experience. I also decided to change out the spark plugs and this time around I got the cheapest ones available and even gapped them myself. On the way back we took the doors off to take in the southern California sun.

This past weekend I drove to San Francisco and the car died at least 5 times. After spending the night in the car without doors, in the end I had it towed home. Prior to calling for a tow I figured out that if I fed fuel straight in to the carb it would fire right up. I then checked to see if maybe the carb wasn't getting fuel but when i disconnect the fuel inlet, fuel started spilling out. Oh, and I drained the the battery.

Im assuming that when you feed fuel straight in to the carb, the float bowl is being bypassed... If so, then maybe the bowl is dirty and the jets are clogged. Though I rebuilt my carb and feel I did a good job Im far from an expert but next task is to pull the carb again.
 
Besides a leak in the line, does anyone know what could drop fuel efficiency down to 1mpg? I was running on a 1 gallon gas can and it killed nearly half a gallon between starting and idling at a light, and the other half driving 3/4 of a mile. Ran out on the way back so it took about 2.5 gallons to drive almost 2.5 miles.
 
Not an expert by any means but it seems as though there's a lot of "learning experiences" offered by this fine rig. You have shown some tenacity. Doesn't the manual fuel pump located on the passenger side of the engine block fail and either pump fuel onto the ground or into the oil pan? Get under and around the rig (without a cigar in your mouth) and look for fuel leaks. I would check the oil level to see if it has risen too. Gas in your oil will wash the cylinders and cause bigger issues than this shade tree mechanic can walk you through.
 
I love this site! I finally found a complete OEM fuel tank a little over 3-hours away so Im about to hop in my spaceship aka honda insight to make this journey. I was wondering if anyone knows the size of the fuel inlet hose so I can pop in to autozone or o'reilly auto.

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I'd recommend Toyota 77213-60030 for that hose, $37.38 plus shipping from toyotapartsdeal.com. It's not a part where I'd go generic, the Toyota hose will pretty much last forever. You can get it from Amazon, but it's ~$48.
 
It's just a 2" straight hose. 11-12" long
 

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