Builds "new" fj60

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Rock Auto for belts - get Mitsuboshi or Bando - OEM suppliers.
 
I checked out NAPA as recommended and it was much easier. I ended up ordering 4 belts instead of 3 because I couldn't tell if I needed w/ or w/ out california emissions--dont laugh. I picked up the belts last night and tried to start working before it got dark and was able to get the alternator belt off but the other 2 drove me crazy.

I need tips on the "simplest" way to get the other 2 belts off.
 
So I got my hands dirty today and replaced the belts only to see that only one really needed to be replaced. The belts however weren't the culprit. I'm still glad I changed them since that starts my baseline.

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After putting the belts on I got everything tightened up and saved the alternator for last. I don't if I'm an idiot or not but I had taken the bottom bolt out so I fought to get that back in. Once that was in I started tightening the belt and ended up breaking the tensioner bolt. Home Depot was nearby so i hopped in my insight. The bolt was an m8 which was hidden in a drawer not readily accessible but I managed to track one down. Its much shorter than the one I broke but it worked just fine.

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I got the car started and heard the same loud screech for a few seconds then it turned in to a very faint sound so I took it for a test drive. I got stuck at a light and observed smoke. The temp gauge was only half way but I pulled over. This time it was coming from the water pump area. I shut off the car and touched the belt. The belt was really hot. I started the car back up to observe and noticed that the segment of the belt from the crank to the water pump was really wobbly. I shut the car off again and poked at the belt and it was still tight. So I looked around some more. I stared at the water pump as if it was magically going to start talking. I decided that if I couldn't figure out this time around I would take it to my mechanic. I then started the car up one last time and stared at the water pump and finally realized that the water pump pulley wasn't spinning and the friction was causing the smoke.

Can I replace the pulley alone or do i need to replace the water pump too or do they come together as one unit?

If I have to replace the water pump should I also replace the t-stat too and the attached hoses?

Is a cooling system flush necessary at that time or can i swap the pump then flush it once i get home?

I really just need to move the car because its in a random neighborhood but don't want to double up on the work.
 
In one of my first few posts I mentioned having an extra set of 15x10 inch wheels; they came with the car. I posted them on craigslist and the letgo app and got a few offers. Someone in sacramento offered me $150 and said he'd send someone but that never happened. A kid out in modesto asked me to deliver for $220 but didn't have the money yet. Then on Tuesday right before class i got a text asking if I'd be willing to take $300. Instead of countering, I jumped and said sure thinking he'd flake too. As we chatted he said ASAP. I then offered to deliver that night at no extra charge. So right after class I sped to my storage, loaded up, and drove from San Jose to Madera. As soon as i exited I texted the guy and no reply. I pulled up to the house and texted "I'm here" and again, no reply. Then after a few minutes on a creepy street with not a single street light the guys mom came out. She handed me the cash and I was on my way.

That $300 has covered the starter and belts I swapped out, and will possibly cover the water pump, hoses and other fluids; I hope.

Safety first!

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The water pump I got from napa said I needed a gasket dealer but not what kind. I got anxious and called mudrak. We texted back and forth and the end result was no sealer. The cruiser is alive again and the fever is gone.

Once I knew the water pump was working and the it was ok longer overheating I changed out the upper and lower radiator hoses along with one other that connects to the water pump. I bought a t stat but got tired and never installed it.

This whole process was a nightmare of a puzzle and process for me but I'm glad I went thru it.

For now I've left the fan shroud off since the shroud annoyed me and it's running just fine so it may just stay off unless someone has a legit reason to put it back on.

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I took it in for a smog pretest and it failed. Fuel cap was the easy fix. The guy said the cat is missing but I checked when I got home and it's definitely there so I'm assuming he meant it's bad. As for the numbers, he said it's running rich and a new cat would probably fix that issue.

Any advice?

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When you get more settled down, I would reinstall the fan shroud, after deftly cutting it in the correct place. Study it closely - I cut mine, but not as adroitly as I should have. I should have cut it nearer the top on the driver's side, so it requires less gymnastics to get it it out.
 
This is the best way to learn how to wrench on a vehicle. Sadly the majority of people don't learn how to do simple tasks. Granted there comes a time where taking it to the shop is better/easier. I do the majority of my own wrenching but I took it in to have the oil pan gasket swapped out.

The cat could be missing. It would be up closer to the engine though if the truck has been desmogged then it probably won't pass in your home state. Here in Utah they do a visual as well and I had to point out the EGR valve, smog pump and etc to get the visual passed.

Though looking over (I might be reading it wrong) it looks like it is running rich due to the unbrunt fuel.
 
The water pump I got from napa said I needed a gasket dealer but not what kind. I got anxious and called mudrak. We texted back and forth and the end result was no sealer. The cruiser is alive again and the fever is gone.

Once I knew the water pump was working and the it was ok longer overheating I changed out the upper and lower radiator hoses along with one other that connects to the water pump. I bought a t stat but got tired and never installed it.

This whole process was a nightmare of a puzzle and process for me but I'm glad I went thru it.

For now I've left the fan shroud off since the shroud annoyed me and it's running just fine so it may just stay off unless someone has a legit reason to put it back on.

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Whether you cut it or not for easy removal/installation, put the fan shroud back on. It's there for a reason. It allows the fan to pull air over the entire surface area of the radiator
 
When you get more settled down, I would reinstall the fan shroud, after deftly cutting it in the correct place. Study it closely - I cut mine, but not as adroitly as I should have. I should have cut it nearer the top on the driver's side, so it requires less gymnastics to get it it out.

I actually thought about cutting it but never got around to looking to see if anyone else had done it. I just might do it this weekend.
 
This is the best way to learn how to wrench on a vehicle. Sadly the majority of people don't learn how to do simple tasks. Granted there comes a time where taking it to the shop is better/easier. I do the majority of my own wrenching but I took it in to have the oil pan gasket swapped out.

The cat could be missing. It would be up closer to the engine though if the truck has been desmogged then it probably won't pass in your home state. Here in Utah they do a visual as well and I had to point out the EGR valve, smog pump and etc to get the visual passed.

Though looking over (I might be reading it wrong) it looks like it is running rich due to the unbrunt fuel.

I couldn't agree more when it comes to wrenching, especially on a car like this.

Might sound dumb but Im not sure if I have a cat or a muffler.

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You'll have to find a cat and have it installed.

These guys are supposed to be prett good and direct bolt up (if you OEM) was replaced with a test pipe. (Factory flange mounting)

6 Cylinder 1987 TOYOTA Catalytic Converters

The Cat on your truck would be or would have been roughly right under your butt/feet (drives side floorboard). Can you get a photo of that area and post it?
 
It sounds like your vehicle has been desmogged. The question is if you can get it to pass in your state.

Desmogged means they took of the catalytic converter, egr valve and smog pump. Here in Utah it still has to have all those to pass the emissions inspection. If it doesn't they are supposed to fail you right away. Now if your truck has been then you will probably need to get it back to original before they will test it.
 
You'll have to find a cat and have it installed.

These guys are supposed to be prett good and direct bolt up (if you OEM) was replaced with a test pipe. (Factory flange mounting)

6 Cylinder 1987 TOYOTA Catalytic Converters

The Cat on your truck would be or would have been roughly right under your butt/feet (drives side floorboard). Can you get a photo of that area and post it?
It sounds like your vehicle has been desmogged. The question is if you can get it to pass in your state.

Desmogged means they took of the catalytic converter, egr valve and smog pump. Here in Utah it still has to have all those to pass the emissions inspection. If it doesn't they are supposed to fail you right away. Now if your truck has been then you will probably need to get it back to original before they will test it.

Don't one of the pulleys on the right belong to the smog pump?

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You'll have to find a cat and have it installed.

These guys are supposed to be prett good and direct bolt up (if you OEM) was replaced with a test pipe. (Factory flange mounting)

6 Cylinder 1987 TOYOTA Catalytic Converters

The Cat on your truck would be or would have been roughly right under your butt/feet (drives side floorboard). Can you get a photo of that area and post it?

Thats the best pic I could get.

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