Yes but you'd want to decide what your final top coat will be... I guess you could use Dynaliner on top of deadener too.. but not if you're going to shoot Bed Liner.. Bed Liner over sound deadener is ok
Missed the 80 reference .... so Foil deadener of your choice, sound deadener and carpet or add Dynaliner over deadener .. No Dynaliner under gas pedal or along the front side of trans hump next to the gas pedal.. it's to thick and can limit pedal movement once the carpet goes down
If you like near perfect, well thought out, super clean, full of abundantly useful mods, and oh did I mention near perfect...then I guess it's all right.
Test fitting the passenger rear cargo box and the factory panel pieces .. The plan below the side fit kit is a Pure Sinewave inverter a blue sea fuse block to run two 110v outlets, Interior lights for the side storage boxes and control switches to turn on the inverter and one for each outlet.. Orderd two Tacoma truck bed outlets and Toyota factory switches
In building the rear pillar pods I had to access the rear cargo area and remove the sub enclosure... The sub was dead and has been replaced with a JL Audio in it's own enclosure that sits between the fridge and the side panel. With the enclosure out I decided to build a box into that area even though it will not be accessed very often.. with the sub blocking it .. but it was a dead spot so why not fill it.
The side panel has a flat section that's appropriately 25 inches long... so the box and outside panel cover that area. I used both ends of the factory panel on either side....I had previously hacked up the factory panel to install the sub enclosure so I used a few strips of wood and cover both with marine vinyl of similar color.. Still need to work out a few details and decide if I'm going to have it Line-x'd or just cover with marine vinyl
I don't remember the actual model but I bought it in 2011..its bluetooth but not bluetooth audio. If you're just upgrading the head unit it's pretty straight forward and I used a harness from Crutchfield.
Lou, Tim over at sackwear sent me this thread, holy cow!!! Man you have the nicest 80...............Land Cruiser I've ever seen or even thought about. I'm just starting on a 93 I bought a month ago and I wish I could say that's what I'm going to do with mine but who am I kidding, I have 3 sons in college I did find a set of the TRD wheels like you have on craigslist so I'm going to have to drive 4.5 hours and pick them up. I may not be able to replicate yours but I may be able to make a cheap copy. I've spent the evening reading your build and have enjoyed every bit of it. Cheers!!
Finally got around to fixing my inoperable front passenger window. About a month ago someone here linked a buy on Amazon for both front window regulators assemblies ....$99 for both so I placed the order. Pretty straightforward job and while I was at it I replaced the front window runs. Working great now.
The fit was perfect and everything lined right up... the regulator is a pretty simple device ... Stamp steel a spring, gear and motor...time will tell but for $50.00 bucks a side it was hard to pass up..
Yesterday I tackled the rear heater bypass.... The rear heater tubes sprang a small leak about a month ago and just based on the location of the hoses (against the firewall) I knew it would be a PITA and it was. Feeling that most of the radiator fluid in the upper tubes had drained down or leaked out I simply cut the hoses. Well there was still fluid but not much..
Purchased 5/8 inch hose a small brass connector and completed the bypass. I found that using a heat gun and working the factory T connector into the ends really helped loosen up the hose ends to slip over the 2 factory tubes on the firewall. When the weather warms up I'll remove the remaining rusted rear heater tubes ..
Christo Slee sent me this picture diagram which made my job easier