New 200 owner - What preventative things to do while it is still brand new? (4 Viewers)

[Codybear]

Great thread, ...

Ditto. Got a 1/2 year old 2021 LC that's enjoying at least a year sabbatical in the garage and I certainly want to get ahead of the curve with the fight against salt and rust. The 2021 LC will hit the streets after I run my wife's MB SW into the ground and I'll keep the 2000 LC around for the winters and tight parking for the next few years.

 

[Tex68w]

Definitely have the front bumper and hood wrapped in Xpel or something else that's self healing. Our Cruiser is a year old and we already have 15+ rock chips on the front, it's horrible. And yes, it has the crappy factory 3M cutouts on the hood and mirrors, they are a joke and already lifting in places.

 

[yonah]

Go get a big tube a dielectric grease and apply to all of your electrical connections especially those big junction boxes in the front foot wells.

If you mean actually applying dielectric grease inside the connector itself - do not do this.

Dielectric grease is okay when applied to weather proof seals/ribbed gaskets on connectors - ex. those found on Weatherpacks, etc. (if the grease is labeled as safe for rubber/silicone); in this application is keeps the seal/gasket supple and prevents it from drying and cracking over time (many years). Probably not a bad idea if the connector is subjected to road grime and water.

However, do not apply it on the actual metal connectors themselves. Dielectric grease will reduce the connectivity between the contacts by adding an insulating barrier between them; thus reducing the overall effectiveness of the connector, which will create electrical “gremlins” in time. I have personally tested/verified the resistance with/without dielectric grease in the past with a high-end voltmeter, as have others.

Additionally, when applied to the actual connector, over time dielectric grease corrodes the connector surface and dries out; thus losing its hydrophobic property. The grease will turn into a dry, greenish crust on the connector surface that creates electrical resistance and it can even seize the connectors together like an epoxy.

 

[Leaky2014]

If you mean actually applying dielectric grease inside the connector itself - do not do this.

Dielectric grease is okay when applied to weather proof seals/ribbed gaskets on connectors - ex. those found on Weatherpacks, etc. (if the grease is labeled as safe for rubber/silicone); in this application is keeps the seal/gasket supple and prevents it from drying and cracking over time (many years). Probably not a bad idea if the connector is subjected to road grime and water.

However, do not apply it on the actual metal connectors themselves. Dielectric grease will reduce the connectivity between the contacts by adding an insulating barrier between them; thus reducing the overall effectiveness of the connector, which will create electrical “gremlins” in time. I have personally tested/verified the resistance with/without dielectric grease in the past with a high-end voltmeter, as have others.

Additionally, when applied to the actual connector, over time dielectric grease corrodes the connector surface and dries out; thus losing its hydrophobic property. The grease will turn into a dry, greenish crust on the connector surface that creates electrical resistance and it can even seize the connectors together like an epoxy.

You couldn't be more wrong if you tried...

 

[bloc]

You couldn't be more wrong if you tried...

And yet, whatever the reasons for not doing so, no major auto manufacturer feels it necessary to put it in their harnesses.

 

[yonah]

You couldn't be more wrong if you tried...

Support your argument.

 

[Leaky2014]

Support your argument.

What's the point, arguing something on the internet, how dumb.
Half the people understand it, half don't, welcome to the world.
I could show several resources showing support for it and you could show just as many showing support against it, I'm not wasting my time on it, people can use the stuff or not, I got nothing to gain or lose.
I've done enough research to fully understand the benefits and fully understand how it should be used and what it does and what it doesn't do, others should do the same.

 

[KLF]

I'm with @Leaky2014, there's no sense debating. But, I have used dielectric grease for many many years, on both the seals and contacts and will continue to do so. Every time I open a connector that is exposed to weather, it gets greased before I put it back together. I have never seen it dry "like an epoxy" or turn green.

Manufacturers don't do it because it's a PITA and will slow down production. Just like why they don't use anti-seize on any fasteners.

 

[katit]

We know frames rust -hence protection. Didn't read anywhere (not in 100 series section either) about corroding connectors. On my 100 I replaced a few mostly because of plastic getting old/brittle. But protecting them? I think it's waste of time and completely unnecessary

 

[04UZJ100]

How about dielectric grease on battery posts?

 

[katit]

How about dielectric grease on battery posts?

Never needed if you have good battery. It was a problem with battery terminals not sealed letting acid out.

 

[bloc]

Manufacturers don't do it because it's a PITA and will slow down production. Just like why they don't use anti-seize on any fasteners.

*And because it isn’t necessary, even in the context of million mile Tundras.

On supercars where cost/time isn't a concern, they don't use the stuff. Because it causes more problems than it solves.

Know where else it isn't used? Wiring harnesses intended for auto racing, including off-road where water/dirt can be more of a concern. High-vibration environments, where reliable conductivity is critical. They nope out on dielectric, again because it isn't necessary.


Toyota and other auto manufacturers haven't spent decades perfecting the waterproof wiring connector to be reliable, durable, and secure.. only to easily let water and dirt in that needs some magic grease they decided not to use to actually make them water/contamination tight.

You are probably aware bolts come in a number of special coatings intended to prevent corrosion, and different types are used in different places depending on the environmental demands. But, if you live where salt is a thing the whole vehicle is going to dissolve at a rate similar to the bolts getting stuck anyway. So what's the point?

 

[yonah]

And yet, whatever the reasons for not doing so, no major auto manufacturer feels it necessary to put it in their harnesses.

Yes, exactly.

I work on a team develops trailer-mounted equipment for the military, tech manuals and training products are part of the package. With regard to cabling and connectors, we have call-out messages in these documents that detail step-by-step processes for maintaining wiring harnesses and connectors; my electrical engineers advise in these documents against inserting any form of dielectric or silicone grease into the connectors for the reasons I previously mentioned in my last post. Lubricating o-rings/seals is one thing, but slathering grease over actual electrical contacts introduces resistance at the connection point and ultimately faulty equipment for our end user. Additionally, for these reasons, it goes without saying that we do not inject any sort of grease into the connectors during the manufacturing process. And I can assure you that the climatic demands placed on our equipment exceeds that of a 200-series, especially one in the US.

What's the point, arguing something on the internet, how dumb.
Half the people understand it, half don't, welcome to the world.
I could show several resources showing support for it and you could show just as many showing support against it, I'm not wasting my time on it, people can use the stuff or not, I got nothing to gain or lose.
I've done enough research to fully understand the benefits and fully understand how it should be used and what it does and what it doesn't do, others should do the same.

Good point and I do not want to derail the thread with a sidebar tech discussion. Open to discuss with anyone via PM or a separate thread why this is not a good idea and is antithetical to a preventative measure. Ultimately, from my perspective and experience, it introduces rather than solves problems.

To the OP (or anyone else reading this) to keep with the original purpose of this thread, if you’ve applied dielectric grease to the physical metal contacts within your connectors, recommend picking up a can of CRC electrical contact cleaner and blasting off any grease you’ve applied on the actual contacts of your connectors. This will prevent any future issues with the low voltage electrical systems in your new 200.

 

[bloc]

For anyone curious about how racing wiring harnesses are constructed: Motorsports ECU Wiring Harness Construction - https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

I've made a few changes to how I do wiring based on that article and consider it a great resource.

 

[Leaky2014]

Yes, exactly.

I work on a team develops trailer-mounted equipment for the military, tech manuals and training products are part of the package. With regard to cabling and connectors, we have call-out messages in these documents that detail step-by-step processes for maintaining wiring harnesses and connectors; my electrical engineers advise in these documents against inserting any form of dielectric or silicone grease into the connectors for the reasons I previously mentioned in my last post. Lubricating o-rings/seals is one thing, but slathering grease over actual electrical contacts introduces resistance at the connection point and ultimately faulty equipment for our end user. Additionally, for these reasons, it goes without saying that we do not inject any sort of grease into the connectors during the manufacturing process. And I can assure you that the climatic demands placed on our equipment exceeds that of a 200-series, especially one in the US.



Good point and I do not want to derail the thread with a sidebar tech discussion. Open to discuss with anyone via PM or a separate thread why this is not a good idea and is antithetical to a preventative measure. Ultimately, from my perspective and experience, it introduces rather than solves problems.

To the OP (or anyone else reading this) to keep with the original purpose of this thread, if you’ve applied dielectric grease to the physical metal contacts within your connectors, recommend picking up a can of CRC electrical contact cleaner and blasting off any grease you’ve applied on the actual contacts of your connectors. This will prevent any future issues with the low voltage electrical systems in your new 200.

Really CRC, funny how you would recommend a brand that would tell people to put dielectric grease on electrical contacts and more...much more.
Make sure you read the directions on that CRC electrical contact cleaner, you are probably using it wrong.

 

[Leaky2014]

 

[yonah]

Do what your wallet and free time can afford, big guy. I’ve given my advice.

Please see your previous work:

What's the point, arguing something on the internet, how dumb.
Half the people understand it, half don't, welcome to the world.
I could show several resources showing support for it and you could show just as many showing support against it, I'm not wasting my time on it, people can use the stuff or not, I got nothing to gain or lose.
I've done enough research to fully understand the benefits and fully understand how it should be used and what it does and what it doesn't do, others should do the same.

 

[ToySldr]

Like a lot of the list i live in constant fear of underbody rust killing my otherwise indestructible LC. Th only professionally applied and at all recommended options i can find around us in Baltimore seen to be Line-X. Are you happy with how yours came out? Would you might posting some pics? Wondering how in compares to all the DIY options discussed on here and how much of a mess or access issues it may cause.

If you find a place near Baltimore to get it done, let me know! I’m considering an Xpel wrap next month at a place by Annapolis.

 

[KeithMD]

If you find a place near Baltimore to get it done, let me know! I’m considering an Xpel wrap next month at a place by Annapolis.

I too have searched undercoating services East of Washington, DC, but have not found any options. I did locate a Noxudal dealer in Fairfax, VA. They have come highly recommended, and I am considering having the product applied next month. Car Detailing & Tinting In Fairfax VA | Automotive Protection Services - https://apsrustandtint.com/

For an XPEL Installer, I opted for a full front wrap by Xtreme Auto Detail, and the results were very impressive. Mike and Pricilla along with their team communicated updates and were terrific to work with. While the 40 min drive was not convenient, they were considerably less in cost, and offered more coverage than the Annapolis XPEL installer. They will also complete a full detail of your vehicle during the installation, then have you return in 30 days for an exterior wash and film installation inspection.
Xtreme Auto Detail’s
23551 Pebble Run Pl
Sterling, VA 20166
Phone: (571) 250-7005
xtremeautodetails.com

 

[ToySldr]

I too have searched undercoating services East of Washington, DC, but have not found any options. I did locate a Noxudal dealer in Fairfax, VA. They have come highly recommended, and I am considering having the product applied next month. Car Detailing & Tinting In Fairfax VA | Automotive Protection Services - https://apsrustandtint.com/

For an XPEL Installer, I opted for a full front wrap by Xtreme Auto Detail, and the results were very impressive. Mike and Pricilla along with their team communicated updates and were terrific to work with. While the 40 min drive was not convenient, they were considerably less in cost, and offered more coverage than the Annapolis XPEL installer. They will also complete a full detail of your vehicle during the installation, then have you return in 30 days for an exterior wash and film installation inspection.
Xtreme Auto Detail’s
23551 Pebble Run Pl
Sterling, VA 20166
Phone: (571) 250-7005
xtremeautodetails.com

I had been in the market for Xpel, but, have been watching videos about Kavaca. The PPF by itself has ceramic coating embedded. It's a bit more expensive. The reason I am leaning towards it is that it is not computer cut tracings and it's all done by hand. It just appears to be a cleaner install and seems thicker than Xpel also.