New 200 owner - What preventative things to do while it is still brand new? (3 Viewers)

[jl199986]

Wow - great response. So what’s your go-to DIY detailing setup assuming I have a 6” and 3” DA polisher from Griots.

Oh, I don’t do the hard paint prep work, not patient or skilled enough- I do appreciate the results though. (For me that’s kind of the point of the coating -time saved, no need to polish after that first prep- but still a nice clean car.) Professionals for the prep and coatings & Xpel install- done right that can be a once in the car’s life event. If I do get pinstripes/scratches or such we’ll see- Cruisers off road of course can (should!) endure things different than my others cars have.

For my washes- Maguires gold soap in a hose foam sprayer. 2 buckets and lots of plush Amazon micro fibers. Sometimes some various spray detailers for a little more shine. But since nothing sticks too well to opticoat one could argue it’s kind of a waste of time and if you’re not actually immediately buffing off the detailer it’ll just quickly wash off anyway.

 

[Reg Wang]

I just bought the chemical guys Extreme Body Wash and Wax (Amazon product ASIN B06XTKPTTJ), this thing washes well but also wax it lightly, and it stays waxed for at least one week! While my car is still shiny and beads up easily, I don't think I should wash the car with this if I want to apply ceramic coating afterwards...

 

[Ape Cruiser]

I got the front end of my cruiser XPEL coated. Immediately got brush scratches on both sides when I went off road in the Sierra Nevadas. Getting paint correction done, then XPEL on the rest of the sides. THEN, getting the whole thing ceramic coated.

Going to be expensive, but worth it in my opinion, especially since my cruiser is black

That’s what I did: full body wrap in XPEL, for brush pinstriping resistance.

 

[NewLCGuy]

I believe the Rust prevention is a worthwhile investment, since I expect this vehicle to last 30+ years.

Noxudol products look like a great solution, however the nearest application center is 3 hours away. So Line-X it is, they are 20 minutes away - Appointment next week for a 2 day undercoating /body cavity treatment... Good reviews from a couple car dealer friends.

I'll skip the ceramic coating for now - my vehicle is never pristine anyway (did I mention I live out a 2 mile gravel road)

Does anybody know if the Noxiudol application centers or Line-X will treat one with some rust? If yes, what is their process for used vehicles to remove the rust before the application and the typical cost. Thanks. I have a 2017 LC.

Finally, I have both the options at drivable distance. Which one is preferable barring the cost?

 

[1carnut]

Picked her up from Line-X yesterday. Complete rust proofing/ frame treatment. Was told to not wash her or drive in downpours for a week or so to allow full curing time.

Clear 3M bra to be added this week.

any other ideas to get her prepared for a long life?

Like a lot of the list i live in constant fear of underbody rust killing my otherwise indestructible LC. Th only professionally applied and at all recommended options i can find around us in Baltimore seen to be Line-X. Are you happy with how yours came out? Would you might posting some pics? Wondering how in compares to all the DIY options discussed on here and how much of a mess or access issues it may cause.

 

[TheComedian]

I don't know if it's already been said but make sure you preserve your sills with grease or wax. My 2008 LC is pretty rotten on the sills

 

[katit]

I don't know if it's already been said but make sure you preserve your sills with grease or wax. My 2008 LC is pretty rotten on the sills

What sills?

 

[TheComedian]

What sills?

These sills.

 

[katit]

Ouch! How do you preserve those? I am waiting for new LX right now and want to do those things. But going to use Cosmoline (not fluid film)

 

[WCDAVE]

These sills.
View attachment 2767305

WOW! So what precipitated that? Were there off road contacts where the running boards were pinched into the pinch weld/sill? I also notice that the doors do not have the side moulding on them. Were those not on European models? (Assuming this isn't a 2 year old HE). Otherwise might be an indication of previous work that might have caused the issue.

 

[unclemat]

The mud flaps do not rub the paint off anything, at least in the 5 years and 100k miles i have owned my 200.

I'd be surprised if it really did not.

I recently removed the mudflaps on my 2015 and the paint was rubbed. Some clear coat on the fenders and almost through the color on the rockers. The rockers have more play which probably has contributed to it.

I just had full front clear bra applied extending to the area under mudflap. Did the same on the 2021. OCD, but I like keeping paint intact as much as I can.

 

[TheComedian]

WOW! So what precipitated that? Were there off road contacts where the running boards were pinched into the pinch weld/sill? I also notice that the doors do not have the side moulding on them. Were those not on European models? (Assuming this isn't a 2 year old HE). Otherwise might be an indication of previous work that might have caused the issue.

I had dismantled the plastic cover to spray it with the front bumper with Bedliner.
(But yeah the doors never had molds since its the Africa version and not any Russian or US Bling Bling LC Version .)
Then I noticed the whole extent. I thought until then that the rust is only on the inside. The car is from 2008 and has already several Sahara crossings behind it and was driven by my buddy (the previous owner) dozens of times to the complete limit.

I think the worst was / is the extremely fine Sahara sand that penetrates into the last small crack of the vehicle. This sand retains moisture very well and if you do not keep that in mind then it gammelt in places that look good from the outside because the moisture does not go away.

That's why I recommend cavity sealing, especially for a new vehicle.

Well, it should not bother me... I derust what is still there, seal the whole thing and good it is. Some minor rust spots are still there such as the plugs at the bottom of the doors and a little in the wheel wells. Nothing that would bother me in a vehicle which is otherwise technically in perfect condition, visually so ****ed up that I cry no tears when I get stuck somewhere and it cost me only 12k.

As I said also to the tread creator.... Cavity seal, underbody seal and spray the rest with CorossionX HD then you (or the owner after you) will get into a situation like this.
The 2013 Hillux of a friend has until today no rust because he has so much wax and grease everywhere that it drips out on hot summer days at the bottom of the door ...

 

[KeithMD]

Some have mentioned wrapping their LC200 in the XPEL product. I am working with a local XPEL dealer who advises against the full hood wrap due to the shape of the LC hood, causing the film to distort as result of excessive stretching.

He is recommending the bikini cut pattern as an alternative and to use the 8 Mil vs the 10 Mil product. I have XPEL on two other vehicles with excellent results.

Has anyone had a bad experience with their XPEL installation on a late model LC200?

 

[7000ft]

Thanks for the input on the rear hitch cover - I just installed it yesterday, So I will remove it until I can figure out a way to protect the bumper cover. Mud Flaps stay however as I live on a gravel road and need the protection...

I didn't mean to start a thread on ceramic coatings - to each his own. I'll stick with the Graphene coating for now applied on a 9-12 month schedule.

I have ordered and will be applying a 3M pro clear bra for the headlights, mirrors, bumper cover and front of the hood - Any feedback on these?

Just finished up Painting the KDSS Valve assembly, and while I was there I painted the thin metal cover (and the similar fuel line cover in front of it) with 2 coats of Rustoleum. Also greased the bleed nipple and bottom of the valve to keep them rust free for the future.

While I was there, I noticed the weld seam on the transmission support and main frame rails were already showing early signs of flaking paint and corrosion, so I went ahead and wire brushed all of the seams on the frame .& support and primed / painted those as well. (ignore the runs in the paint - I was going for protection - not beauty)

Other mechanical suggestions?
View attachment 2618029View attachment 2618030

What's the red sealant on the valves? Looks like a great way to protect them against rust.

 

[katit]

What's the red sealant on the valves? Looks like a great way to protect them against rust.

Looks like grease, not sealant

 

[7000ft]

This is what a buddy uses on his off-road vehicles: ITWProBrands - https://www.itwprobrands.com/product/lps-3

 

[Mark WV]

Red sealant is just Mobile 1 synthetic grease. I had noticed in the past that it tends to dry out and crust over, so in this application where is is not directly exposed to road spray it should last until I need to access the valves many years in the future

 

[prwillard2]

Some have mentioned wrapping their LC200 in the XPEL product. I am working with a local XPEL dealer who advises against the full hood wrap due to the shape of the LC hood, causing the film to distort as result of excessive stretching.

He is recommending the bikini cut pattern as an alternative and to use the 8 Mil vs the 10 Mil product. I have XPEL on two other vehicles with excellent results.

Has anyone had a bad experience with their XPEL installation on a late model LC200?

My shop had no issue putting XPEL on my whole hood

 

[MTN2SND]

My shop had no issue putting XPEL on my whole hood

Same. Find a shop that's got someone who has experience with installing xpel on 200's.

 

[Leaky2014]

Go get a big tube a dielectric grease and apply to all of your electrical connections especially those big junction boxes in the front foot wells.