bloc
SILVER Star
Toyota didn’t use dielectric for a reason. Make sure you don’t have water leaking into the cab and you won’t need it. Plus, any future work on wiring will be infinitely less messy.
New 200 owner - What preventative things to do while it is still brand new? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mark WV
- Start date
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Here's a couple threads to read before you dismiss the use of dielectric grease...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/electrical-problem.1260038/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-electrical-issues-any-advice-or-feedback.1253933/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wet-p-s-floor-board.1262635/#post-14037876
Leak at A-Pillar - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/leak-at-a-pillar.1252717/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/electrical-problem.1260038/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-electrical-issues-any-advice-or-feedback.1253933/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wet-p-s-floor-board.1262635/#post-14037876
Leak at A-Pillar - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/leak-at-a-pillar.1252717/
bloc
SILVER Star
I'm fully aware of the harness issues, and have been doing what I consider high-level shadetree auto work for over two decades, the whole time seeing the gospel of dielectric grease. I've used the stuff on exactly two connectors, and in both cases ended up wishing I hadn't.
Toyota, nor any major OEM for that matter use dielectric grease on the vast majority of their harnesses because it isn't needed with how well they engineer their electrical systems, and generally causes more problems than it solves. It attracts dirt, makes inspecting terminals difficult, and any kind of fine harness/connector work vastly more time consuming.
The root of the problem here is water collecting in the footwells and staying there undetected, and grease shoved into connectors preemptively is a band-aid. All-weather mats, never using safelite for windshield installs, and drying things out properly if you screw up and leave windows/sunroof open in the rain is the correct way to address this. I'd even put pulling the cowl and having a look at the windshield base gasket on that list for higher mileage rigs.
You doing ok?
bloc
SILVER Star
Fantastic. You? Changing subject?
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I was considering doing this for a few connectors underneath that seem exposed. Like the one that goes to (I think) the transfer case, for example. I haven't done it but I'm wondering about your thoughts on it.
bloc
SILVER Star
Like this one?
Toyota uses very high quality gasketed connectors everywhere outside the passenger compartment, so water and dirt ingress shouldn’t be an issue unless the connector is damaged. Which is a whole other issue. They even did a good job of preventing damage from sticks and thrown rocks in this specific location by the use of the small shield around the back of the case and rear driveshaft front ujoint. I’ve seen pictures of some people removing this but would keep mine in place, unless replacing the whole thing with a belly skid for instance.
So personally I don’t see a benefit to modifying this connector. And as mentioned above, if you do need to do work on it for some reason on the side of a trail, the grease will only complicate that repair job.
Most of the others will have a similar story.. waterproof, retained against vibration where needed, protected from damage also if needed.
Wait - all these things for a new Land Cruiser? Jesus man - screw all of this, get some time off, gas’er up and get out in the wilds before the snow flies. Wasting your time on all this stuff right now is just that - wasting your time. You bought this Land Cruiser for adventure. Go have one!
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Yep like that one. I was actually going to try and get the connector off but some little voice inside asked "Dude, what are you gonna do if you somehow break it getting it apart and then have to go to a dealer (perish the thought) and have to pay to get it fixed" when the whole point was to make it last longer. So I didn't do anything.
bloc
SILVER Star
Small school on toyota connectors.. there is a very small five or six digit code on each one that makes ordering exact replacements quite easy. Minus the day or week to actually get it in your hands. Then a couple little routines with a jewelers screwdriver and it is pretty easy to swap the wires progressively into the new one and be all set up.
I know because I've done this a lot over the years. Most recently I didn't post a thread (I think) but I had to repair my harness after a squirrel chewed the wiring harness and this meant installing a new 7-pin connector and repair leads.
Extended connector school..
Use a compressor and blow any dirt out behind the catch button, and maybe dig around in there with an oring pick to loosen things up before blowing out. Then push the connector even tighter together.. this will loosen up any dirt that is hanging things up, and give room for the hooks on the catch to release. By now they usually come right apart with some jiggling but nothing crazy. Sometimes I need to use pliers to compress the release catch, or even dig behind it with a screwdriver, though this has been rare on my 170k mile cruiser.
Basically, the whole system is well thought out and they built it to be worked on. You'd have to have the "everything is a nail, so I need a hammer" mentality to break much of it. So far degradation from heat hasn't been an issue, at least on mine.
But yeah the dealer would probably charge you for a whole new powertrain harness.
37 years since i bought my first new Land Cruiser. 1987 FJ60. Bought my next new Land cruiser in 1998 - a 100. Then a LX570 new (sold - was not my cup of tea). Then a new 200 in 2015. The FJ60 doesnt get driven much any more but has over 230k miles. The 100 has over 435k. My 200? Approaching 100k. Just wrapping up a 7500 mile all summer, cross country fishing trip pulling my off-road trailer. What did I do with each of them, at the beginning of ownership, to get them this far?
Nothing. Nothing at all. That is why i bought a Land Cruiser. Toyota did all the hard engineering work and I paid for the results. In every case, the day after i bought the vehicle i took it on an adventure. Drove the FJ 60 from the dealer in Anchorage (Nye Toyota - RIP) to San Jose, Costa Rica. Drove the 100 from the dealer in Minneapolis to Seattle, then back to Alaska, then up the haul road to Cold Foot. The 200
I drove to Cabo. No prep, just gas and go.
Nothing. Nothing at all. That is why i bought a Land Cruiser. Toyota did all the hard engineering work and I paid for the results. In every case, the day after i bought the vehicle i took it on an adventure. Drove the FJ 60 from the dealer in Anchorage (Nye Toyota - RIP) to San Jose, Costa Rica. Drove the 100 from the dealer in Minneapolis to Seattle, then back to Alaska, then up the haul road to Cold Foot. The 200
I drove to Cabo. No prep, just gas and go.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Well, yeah, point taken. That's how I treated my 2000 100 series and I kept it mostly trouble-free for only 19 years.
My only regret there was in not taking steps to prevent rust but I've put fluid film on my 2018 200.
The thinking for exposed connectors was similar to applying fluid film before the frame started showing signs of rust.
I am speculating that others are following similar lines of reasoning.
As I said, I didn't actually take any connectors apart and the consensus is that it isn't necessary nor is it super hard to replace the connectors, which is something which I did not realize.
Resurrecting an earlier discussion from this thread regarding treating the interior section of the frame channels with Fluid Film, Wool Wax, etc..; are you guys power washing or using another product to treat the rust or just annually applying your "cocktail" of choice to the frame channel cavity?
Fluid Film with the wand extender for inside the frame rail and tight spaces. Fluid film is waste on the front side and frame. It washes off really quick. WoolWax the areas that that really get road spray. Wait a week after application and go for a ride on salt free dusty road. WoolWax is a mess to apply and a mess if you are doing any service work after it's applied but it works.
As far as electrical connections are concerned use Strike Hold. It's for maintaining guns but also has superb properties for electronics. The military uses it for everything.
Lantec is a fantastic product as well. But it's AU so not so fast shipping. I put on a light coat all over before I hit the beach.
As far as electrical connections are concerned use Strike Hold. It's for maintaining guns but also has superb properties for electronics. The military uses it for everything.
Lantec is a fantastic product as well. But it's AU so not so fast shipping. I put on a light coat all over before I hit the beach.
I removed my hitch cover to check for paint damage, and after 12K miles it had begun etching the paint. Last week I had a detail completed, including paint correction and a few small chips touched up, along with the bumper marked by the the hitch cover. My preference is to leave this cover installed but avoid further damage.
I found a door edge product on Amazon that has a protective, yet subtle look. Installation was easy and it does not mar the hitch cover edge. It blends well on the darker color finishes. A stainless steel band inside the rubber edging ensures a snug fit around corners. Trim to fit. Amazon product ASIN B08ML2R9WJ
Great idea for a thread. I'm in the same situation and want to bubble wrap my new 2021. I've never owned a new vehicle before, but have owned several 3-5 year old vehicles - to include one 200 and a Tacoma - and have observed with those trucks the areas that tend to wear the fastest. I've often thought to myself that I wish the PO would have done this, or taken the time to protect that...
This will be a lifelong vehicle for our family, so to me it's worth the effort. Here is what I have done over the first six months of ownership, or will do over the next six months:
Completed:
- Escape Gear seat covers (full set to include third row jump seats and console arm rest cover)
- Escape Gear dash cover
- Husky Liners
- Canvasback full rear liner (to include second row seat back, jump seat sleeve covers, and tailgate cover)
- Headlight / taillight coating (to prevent oxidation (yellowing))
- Blue Ridge Overland visor covers (to protect the fabric on the visors and for the added bonus of additional storage)
- Blue Ridge Overland front seat back molle panels to protect the seat backs from kid movement in and out of the vehicle
- BH3D Cupholder insert (to replace the shallow OEM cupholder - to prevent spilled coffee/drinks onto the console)
- Recirculation door warning decals (from the thread on IH8Mud)
To Do by EOM October:
- Full Woolwax undercarriage treatment (will apply CRC Rust Inhibitor on all bolts and water collection points first)
- Woolwax Wheel Well Grease on KDSS valves and pistons and inner wheel wells
- *I plan on reapplying these products every fall
To Do by next Summer:
- UV tint on all windows (to include windshield and sunroof) and matching OEM tint on front passenger windows
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prwillard2
SILVER Star
I put this on my doors. Works great
bloc
SILVER Star
This stuff is used all over our fire apparatus. It will definitely rub through paint.. the softer texture tends to let sand and grit get embedded in it then the race is on.
If you really don’t want a mark there leave the cover off or have PPF applied wherever there is contact.
Great thread, I just bought a 21 LX and definitely gonna do fluid film.
I did a full claybar on the LX and it has a few light scratches but opted not to do a polish and just applied Adams graphene ceramic coating. This is just me, but I don't want to remove a layer of clearcoat just for 1 or two light scratches. I'd rather wait a like 5 years when I accumulate a few more scratches as you can only polish a vehicle so much.
I did a full claybar on the LX and it has a few light scratches but opted not to do a polish and just applied Adams graphene ceramic coating. This is just me, but I don't want to remove a layer of clearcoat just for 1 or two light scratches. I'd rather wait a like 5 years when I accumulate a few more scratches as you can only polish a vehicle so much.
