New 1998 FZJ75 owner (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Dec 19, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
13
Location
Qatar
Hey guys,

After lots of shopping around I finally found a truck to call my own. It’s a 1998 FZJ75 GCC spec with (allegedly) ~44k original miles, bought it from a local who got it at a government surplus auction a while back.

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Paint is fresh and frame shows zero signs of rust. My list of things to do so far:

-new fluids all around (is there a sticky post somewhere with the various recommended fluid types/capacities?)
-fix idle adjustment cable, doesn’t work
-tune carb, seems to stumble and rough idle occasionally
-swap out the tube tires for standard Yokos
-adjust clutch pedal, clutch is recent but has some play in pedal

Anything else I should be doing near-term as a new owner? I’m in Qatar so parts are readily available, would like to get things done here versus trying to do it when I’m back in the US.

Thanks!
 
Very nice find. Congrats. Looks to be in very nice shape. I’m sure you know this but if it has rims with the retaining ring you can’t get rid of the tubes. I can’t tell from the photos.

Curious about the floor mat. Obviously what I see in the photo isn’t OEM. Is the mat underneath that cover?
 
Very nice find. Congrats. Looks to be in very nice shape. I’m sure you know this but if it has rims with the retaining ring you can’t get rid of the tubes. I can’t tell from the photos.

Curious about the floor mat. Obviously what I see in the photo isn’t OEM. Is the mat underneath that cover?
Yeah it has the original rims with tube tires, I’m going to try and pick up a set of 17” steel rims this weekend and put some regular Yokohamas on them.

Re: the floor mats, the first layer is some sort of aftermarket rubber cover that lays over the entire floor (including under seats). Underneath that the previous owner has already added a layer of knockoff Dynamat. She’s actually reasonably quiet going down the road!
 
Yeah it has the original rims with tube tires, I’m going to try and pick up a set of 17” steel rims this weekend and put some regular Yokohamas on them.

Re: the floor mats, the first layer is some sort of aftermarket rubber cover that lays over the entire floor (including under seats). Underneath that the previous owner has already added a layer of knockoff Dynamat. She’s actually reasonably quiet going down the road!
You can keep those rims if you chose to and use radial tires, like the regular Yokohamas. You just need to use tubes made for radial tires. Pretty sure they are just thicker than tubes for bias ply tires. Might be a stretch to get those in Qatar, not sure.
 
Hello,

Congratulations. Welcome to the madness.

Off the top of my head, you may want to
  1. Replace all sparkplugs.
  2. Replace sparkplug cables.
  3. Replace accelerator cable.
  4. Replace clutch master cylinder.
  5. Replace clutch slave cylinder.
  6. Replace axle seals and bearings, front and rear.
  7. Inspect brake cylinders and replace them if necessary.
  8. Have the carburetor tuned.
You may be able to source OEM steel wheels from a dealer or a wrecker.

Hope this helps.





Juan
 
Had some free time today so I headed down to the industrial district with a buddy and did some shopping!

First stop was the tire shop. Added some 17” Toyota steelies with Yokohama rubber, what a huge improvement in road feel and ride quality! Only downside is some rubbing on tight turns, may get some small spacers if it annoys me enough.

Next was the Toyota dealership parts desk, loaded up the parts cannon with:
-new wires
-plugs
-belts
-water pump
-thermostat
-fuel filter
-tie rod ends
-bushings for shifter
-upper and lower rad hoses w/clamps
-windshield washer bottle

Then stopped by a Mobil service center and got all the fluids changed. 20W50 dino oil with OEM filter and then some sort of generic gear oil for the front diff, transmission, transfer case, and rear diff. The old oil all generally looked fine, only thing of note was a tiny sliver of metal on the front diff magnet.

Next was garage where I had them drain the water (yes water, super common over here), replace radiator hoses and thermostat, then refill with red premix. Not OEM coolant but better than ole H2O. I also had them install the new belts and recharge the AC, blowing ice cold now.

Last stop was the fuel station to try filling the rear tank. When I bought it the rear tank was dead empty and inaccessible because of a keyed gas cap that wouldn’t open. Swapped it for a regular gas cap and filled it up, seemed to work fine running off of the rear tank. I pressed the rear tank button, the light turned green, and it continued to run without issue. Does the rear tank feed directly to the carb or just keep topping off the forward tank?

A couple new issues to chase down:
1) The temp gauge never goes above 1/5-1/4, no matter how hot I get the truck. At startup the needle is buried in the cold and will steadily rise, but stops dead around the 1/4 mark. It was this way before and after the cooling system work. Any thoughts? I was reading it could potentially be a grounding issue, which may track with some unplugged ground wires I spotted in the engine bay? Pic below.

2) I noticed that there seems to be a vacuum hose port on the distributor with no vacuum line attached. Is that normal or should there be something there? I also see another vacuum hose up on the carb with a little bolt shoved into it. I don’t notice any major performance issues, although it does seem to fall on its face under heavy acceleration (3/4+ throttle) sometimes. Pic below.

Next weekend I’m hoping to tackle the carb tuning, fuel filter, plugs, wires, and windshield washer bottle!
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Difficult to take good photos but hopefully these will help somewhat. First off, I do not have that plug as far as I can tell.

It's difficult to tell where that plugged hose in your next photo originates from your photo but there is a VSV under there with a few lines coming off. One goes over that diaphragm looking device and connects to the left hard line which is located to the right and underneath the device. Here's my attempt at a photo of the other end of the hose.

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The last photo of yours is the vacuum advance on the distributor and that could be the cause of your issues under acceleration. That hose goes into a VSV which is located behind and below the back right side of the distributor. Here's an overview photo of the hose and an attempt to show the VSV end - not a good photo though.

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Nice that you found a dealer parts counter that you can work with. I had difficulty with that in Riyadh although it was fairly easy to order from the dealer online and they would deliver the parts for free to my compound. There are lots of small independent parts distributors in Riyadh that are cheaper than the dealer but they are also problematic to work with. Often the dealer's website would have a sale and I would buy a lot of parts at that time.

As far as oil, I'm a Mobil 1 synthetic guy but the selection in Riyadh wasn't great. I used 0W40 in mine which is what a lot of the 80 series guys run here in the US (I run 5W30 Mobil 1 in my 80 FWIW).

Congrats again on the truck. Looks like it's definitely a keeper.
 
Difficult to take good photos but hopefully these will help somewhat. First off, I do not have that plug as far as I can tell.

It's difficult to tell where that plugged hose in your next photo originates from your photo but there is a VSV under there with a few lines coming off. One goes over that diaphragm looking device and connects to the left hard line which is located to the right and underneath the device. Here's my attempt at a photo of the other end of the hose.

View attachment 3883310

The last photo of yours is the vacuum advance on the distributor and that could be the cause of your issues under acceleration. That hose goes into a VSV which is located behind and below the back right side of the distributor. Here's an overview photo of the hose and an attempt to show the VSV end - not a good photo though.

View attachment 3883311

View attachment 3883312

Nice that you found a dealer parts counter that you can work with. I had difficulty with that in Riyadh although it was fairly easy to order from the dealer online and they would deliver the parts for free to my compound. There are lots of small independent parts distributors in Riyadh that are cheaper than the dealer but they are also problematic to work with. Often the dealer's website would have a sale and I would buy a lot of parts at that time.

As far as oil, I'm a Mobil 1 synthetic guy but the selection in Riyadh wasn't great. I used 0W40 in mine which is what a lot of the 80 series guys run here in the US (I run 5W30 Mobil 1 in my 80 FWIW).

Congrats again on the truck. Looks like it's definitely a keeper.
Thanks for the reference photos! I just headed out for a couple weeks vacation but will update on the tinkering once I’m back.
 
Hey fellas,

Finally had a free weekend to take her out and do a little shakedown and see what gremlins I could find. Drove approx 500 miles in 120F+ and the truck never missed a beat, happy to see all seems to be well mechanically. It would go down the highway at 65mph without too much wobble or drift, seemed happy to cruise at that speed.

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I also spend an hour or so off-road, threw it in 4H and hit the salt flats and dunes. Preeeeetty bumpy/rough handling but that’s to be expected with four way leaf springs and stock seats.
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As far as gremlins, a few new ones:

1) discovered that the AC drain hose is missing and it’s just dripping straight into the cab…not ideal. Huge puddle on the floor, soaked backside of mats. I’ll leave the windows open overnight to dry it out. Will try and rig up some vacuum hose to drip out the hole as intended.
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2) The windshield wipers don’t appear to be working in any capacity. None of the functions of that stalk work. While looking for any obvious culprits, I spotted an unplugged harness coming from underneath the steering wheel and a blown 15A fuse (circled below). Anyone happen to have the fuse diagram or know what this connector is for? Emergency flashers work, horn works, headlights work, blinkers work but flash quickly for some reason.
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As far as gremlins, a few new ones:

1) discovered that the AC drain hose is missing and it’s just dripping straight into the cab…not ideal. Huge puddle on the floor, soaked backside of mats. I’ll leave the windows open overnight to dry it out. Will try and rig up some vacuum hose to drip out the hole as intended.
View attachment 3923506

2) The windshield wipers don’t appear to be working in any capacity. None of the functions of that stalk work. While looking for any obvious culprits, I spotted an unplugged harness coming from underneath the steering wheel and a blown 15A fuse (circled below). Anyone happen to have the fuse diagram or know what this connector is for? Emergency flashers work, horn works, headlights work, blinkers work but flash quickly for some reason.
View attachment 3923543View attachment 3923544View attachment 3923545
That would be your wiper fuse. Not sure about the harness.
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As far as gremlins, a few new ones:

1) discovered that the AC drain hose is missing and it’s just dripping straight into the cab…not ideal. Huge puddle on the floor, soaked backside of mats. I’ll leave the windows open overnight to dry it out. Will try and rig up some vacuum hose to drip out the hole as intended.
View attachment 3923506

2) The windshield wipers don’t appear to be working in any capacity. None of the functions of that stalk work. While looking for any obvious culprits, I spotted an unplugged harness coming from underneath the steering wheel and a blown 15A fuse. Anyone happen to have the fuse diagram or know what this connector is for?
View attachment 3923543View attachment 3923544
That would be your wiper fuse. Not sure about the harness.View attachment 3923633
Thank you! Will try a new fuse tomorrow and see if that fixes it.
 

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