Need to do the rotors, should I just do the front axle service?

[turbocruiser]

You *should* be able to get your rotor service for about 30min of labor (remove hub, replace bearings) if your having your axle done, as all the other labor is part of the axle service. That is probably how most of us see it, the two completely overlap, if you do one, you might as well do the other, if they both need service in the next year or so, IMHO. Everybody seems to agree on that last part

Okay, I thought I was done arguing but I argued myself out of it! What the hell is wrong with this ... the original quick question was about needing new rotors not needing a full frickin axle service! If he was getting the axle service done and wanted to know if he should also replace the rotors at the same time, then hell, we all agree he should, why in the world not -there is no duplication of labor or money or anything in that scenario. If on the other hand all he needs is new rotors, and if the axle was recently done, and especially if he is having someone else do the work, why in the hell would he do the axle in that case? No one so far has explained that in a way I understand. Maybe we are all saying the same thing in a different way or maybe I'm misunderstanding??? Help!!! BTW, I should state no offense and no nasty arguement to anyone here (FireTruck, Shocker, etc), I'm just baffled by what appears to be answers to a question that was never really asked!

 

[phishtaco]

Let me see if I can explain my original question...
I need to replace my front brake rotors. Since I already have the front brakes apart, how much additional time would it take just to go ahead and do the front axle service? Kinda like doing the front rotors is about 35% of the front axle service. Does this make sense?
I know I probably need to do it, it's just the time I have to give to do it.

 

[ryanjl]

Okay, I thought I was done arguing but I argued myself out of it! What the hell is wrong with this ... the original quick question was about needing new rotors not needing a full frickin axle service! ................................................................... I'm just baffled by what appears to be answers to a question that was never really asked!

I need new front rotors on my 94. How much longer would it take to just go ahead and do the front axle service?
OEM rotors with either OEM 80 or 100 series pads?

Here's the original post. Utilizing simple common sense, is sounds to me like he thinks the axle service needs to be done. Otherwise he would not be asking how much more labor it is to do it

Because we are assuming it's never been done, we're telling him it'd be far better to do it all at once rather than the rotors now and everything else later. If you read most of our posts, they are tagged with that disclaimer.




phishtaco, back to your original question. If the service has never been done, it's long overdue to do it now. (Assuming a 115K + vehicle)

In terms of a task list, there's not much extra after you've got the rotor off, especially if you do a quick and simple seal replacement and forget about the trunion bearings. In terms of time, the biggest eater is going to be cleaning out the old grease from the knuckle cavity and birfield.

Whereas rotors may take 6 hours, assuming you've never done anything like this before and take your time, rebuilding the axle will probably take two days at a leisurely pace (once again assuming you've never done this before).

 

[turbocruiser]

Let me see if I can explain my original question...
I need to replace my front brake rotors. Since I already have the front brakes apart, how much additional time would it take just to go ahead and do the front axle service? Kinda like doing the front rotors is about 35% of the front axle service. Does this make sense?
I know I probably need to do it, it's just the time I have to give to do it.

Ahhhaaa, seeeeee, NEED new rotors, MIGHT WANT axle service. Doing the rotors anyway, not necessarily doing the axles. Okay smart fellers or fart smellers take another crack at answering the actual question. Here's my answer, again:

If your axle service is scheduled anytime soon, do it all, all at once. If your father can verify that the axle service was done 5k, 10k, even 15k ago, I would rather want to do the rotors and bearings now, drive it another 55k, 50k or 45k and then do the axle. Any other thoughts? Ohh to answer the above question, for someone less skilled than a pro (like me) the additional time required would be significant - perhaps what six to eight hours more? Thoughts? Again, I know I'm getting itchy and scratchy here but no offense to anyone of course! Thanks Phish, let us know how it works out! Peace.

 

[phishtaco]

Well I'll be doing it the Jan 22 when I get back from vacation....So if any smart front axle people wanna help or laugh at me, I will be in my dad's garage in Columbus OH. He's a little smarter than me, has more tools and a lot bigger garage.
Is everybody happy now?

 

[turbocruiser]

Is everybody happy now?

No, I'm still trying to find the shop that will charge me for rotors but do the total axle service!!! Hahahaha All in fun, all in love!

 

[landtank]

Get a hold of K9-Cruzer. His name is Tom and he owes the cruiser community an axle job. He lives in Vandalia or close by and I helped him do his a few months ago. Tell him Rick sent ya.


I'm totally serious here!

 

[firetruck41]

No, I'm still trying to find the shop that will charge me for rotors but do the total axle service!!! Hahahaha All in fun, all in love!

I'll charge you for an axle service and do your rotors for free

 

[snowwolfwarrior]

Well I done a full axle service, new diff oil, new axle seals packed birfs with grease, even changed the lower studs for the later updated ones cos 3 of mine had broken, a week later changed rotors cos of warped disc feel, (brake pedal up and down) this time packed with the right grease in the birfs and from what I can remember, the only additional work to changing the rotors is the 8 bolts that hold the disc on, now the new rotors are on, I still have the foot pedal movement, DOHHHHH so it must be one of the rear rotors causing this, which is my next job

 

[landtank]

Snow, check to see if your e-brake has seized on. This happened to me and when I hit a rather large pubble the rears warped and gave be the pedal movement yo talk about.

 

[cruiserdan]

Well, here is post #3, my original answer to the original question....

If you have not done one before allow 2 days for the whole job. Figure around a half day or so for rotors, make it 3/4 if you clean and re-pack wheel bearings.

 

[turbocruiser]

I'll charge you for an axle service and do your rotors for free

Aahhaa, touche, very funny, very good! Thanks for putting the fun back to the thread! I think I will take the very valid points that many here have made and resolve myself to this fact of cruiserology - ideally, you do your rotors when you are doing your axle. How's that, we're all right!

 

[snowwolfwarrior]

Well I wished I had done my rotors when I done the repack, all that messing about with the wheel bearing setting up and I have so many hammer marks on the hub cap, with hiiting it to dislodge the tapered cones, all that has to come off again to do the rotors, I don't think it can be the e/brake on mine, I pulled up the e/brake when coming to a stop, and you dont get the intermitant brake drag as you stop, I only get it when I apply the foot brake, and as I have changed the front rotors, I assume it's going to be the rears that are warped, well hope so anyway.

 

[landtank]

Snow, I doubt the e-brake would give you pulsing but make sure they are releasing. Is there any play in the handle when first pulling upn it. A little is normal, say5-10 mm, anything more and something is not right and say 25mm+ and the system is sticking.

 

[Rookie2]

Well I wished I had done my rotors when I done the repack, all that messing about with the wheel bearing setting up and I have so many hammer marks on the hub cap, with hiiting it to dislodge the tapered cones, all that has to come off again to do the rotors, I don't think it can be the e/brake on mine, I pulled up the e/brake when coming to a stop, and you dont get the intermitant brake drag as you stop, I only get it when I apply the foot brake, and as I have changed the front rotors, I assume it's going to be the rears that are warped, well hope so anyway.

You don't have to remove the rear axle shaft/cone washers et al.. to replace the rear rotors. Pull wheel off, pull off rotor, replace. Then sit back, have a #6 and pat yourself on the back... you did a fine job.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

When doing the rotor / axle service, are you folks using a 2 1/8" socket on the lock nut or have you found a 54 mm socket somewhere? I've been unable to locate a 54 mm and the NAPA store wants $56.00 for the 2 1/8" socket they stock (yes, you read correctly - north of fifty US dollars for a single socket).

It looks like Sears has a craftsman 2 1/8 socket that they sell for $23. Hopefully I can find one in stock.

 

[e9999]

When doing the rotor / axle service, are you folks using a 2 1/8" socket on the lock nut or have you found a 54 mm socket somewhere? I've been unable to locate a 54 mm and the NAPA store wants $56.00 for the 2 1/8" socket they stock (yes, you read correctly - north of fifty US dollars for a single socket).

It looks like Sears has a craftsman 2 1/8 socket that they sell for $23. Hopefully I can find one in stock.

seems like the 2 1/8 and the 54 are sold interchangeably. The Snap-on (run down a truck) is about $18 or so, but less sturdy than the craftsman.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

It looks like the sockets can be had on the internet at much lower prices. Unfortunately, that won't help me tonight. Fortunately, a local Sears claims to have three of the 2 1/8" sockets in stock.


I also found a handy page for axle service tools and parts:http://www.marlincrawler.com/axleparts.html

 

[Beowulf]

Fortunately, a local Sears claims to have three of the 2 1/8" sockets in stock.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/axleparts.html

I have the Craftsman in my tool chest and the Blue-Point (Snap-On) in my trail kit. They are both 3/4" drive so an adapter is needed if your torque wrench is 1/2" drive.

-B-

 

[cruiserdan]

You can get a genuine OEM SST in 54mm WITH a 1/2 inch drive for less than 25 bucks, if you know where to look.........