You should replace all of your 1 gauge wire. That stuff looks pretty corroded. There is a member here who sells a kit. I’ll try and dig it up and post. I’d also swap that fusible link. At a glance it appears to be burnt up inside.
Need a jump 2-3 times a week! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 22590FJ62
- Start date
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The battery cables (at least one of them) looks like it was made from welding cable. While welding cable is great for flexibility and carrying lots of current, it doesn't make great battery cables. They problem is that the unprotected copper corrodes. Additionally, it tends to wick water into the cable and so I've even seen that green and black corrosion way down the cable beneath the insulation.
What you want to use is marine battery cable. This is similar to welding cable as it is made up of lots and lots of strands for current carrying ability and flexibility. However, the stands are coated in tin for corrosion prevention. They also have insulation which is better suited for harsh environments.
What you want to use is marine battery cable. This is similar to welding cable as it is made up of lots and lots of strands for current carrying ability and flexibility. However, the stands are coated in tin for corrosion prevention. They also have insulation which is better suited for harsh environments.
Just installed a new alternator in my 60 and swapped pulleys this morning. I had to order a thin wall 24mm socket to get the pulley off the new alternator. Thankfully my old pulley slid on perfectly and locked in place nicely. Also belt alignment is good. Now I’m getting a solid 14.3v (meter) at idle and turning on headlights doesn’t cause much difference in the dash needle. I run both the stock white wire to my alt as well as a heavy welding cable from bat to alt. @Cruzerman pointed out the marine cable a while ago and I’ll get some for the future. Right now I just have a bunch of welding cable and it’s doing fine for now.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I got mine from member @Fourrunner. Great setup and absolutely transformed my truck. Night and day difference on starting power. Alleviated a lot of my little electrical issues. Great guy. He made mine custom to include some cable to tie in an extra fuse panel in my setup.
Link for the cables is here:
FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets
The kit costs $155.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available. The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. This kit fits FJ60's and FJ62's. See below for additional kits (FJ40, FJ80 and FZJ80) Kit includes: Battery positive to starter cable (with protective...
forum.ih8mud.com
I noticed too that @ToyotaMatt started offering a set as well on his site I think if you want a factory setup. I would agree with the others after seeing pictures of your setup, a set of battery cables would prolly hook you up. Couldn't hurt. HTH.
I got mine from member @Fourrunner. Great setup and absolutely transformed my truck. Night and day difference on starting power. Alleviated a lot of my little electrical issues. Great guy. He made mine custom to include some cable to tie in an extra fuse panel in my setup.
View attachment 2260118
Link for the cables is here:
FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets
The kit costs $155.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available. The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. This kit fits FJ60's and FJ62's. See below for additional kits (FJ40, FJ80 and FZJ80) Kit includes: Battery positive to starter cable (with protective...
I noticed too that @ToyotaMatt started offering a set as well on his site I think if you want a factory setup. I would agree with the others after seeing pictures of your setup, a set of battery cables would prolly hook you up. Couldn't hurt. HTH.
i recently started Offering the OEM TOYOYA Land CRUISER factory
Alternator Pullys , that are meant for the wide mouth Cogged Belts as u mention above
I source in JAPAN Direct from NipponDenso , Factory commercial accounts
Please review them , here at this link :
i have sold over 10+ so far , and they ARE 100 % factory Correct in every way
also, I now Offer a NEW Silver Zinc Plated Pulley Nut OEM toyota parts as well
i have seen too many crap rebuilders that install the thinner toyota car pulleys
that made me mad .....
so i did something about for the greater good if the 40 and 60 and 55 series folks everywhere in our community !
NOS OEM TOYOTA Land Cruiser NipponDenso Alternator Pulleys, Proper & Correct WIDE COGGED belt width, Factory Powder Coated 2F FJ60 FJ40 part # 27411-60032 FITS 1969-1987 Comes with FREE Pulley NUT OEM Toyota genuine part - VintageTEqParts.com
NOTE: This Listing Is for 1 Pulley ONLY , and a FREE Pulley NUT Too ! NOS OEM TOYOTA Land...
vintageteqpartsllc-com.myshopify.com
This is my Preaious NOS ....
She gets all the phun mock ups And latest bling too
But take note the pulley width i show
This is propper oem COG belt size
the new pulley nut I get from DENSo too
rocks !
She gets all the phun mock ups And latest bling too
But take note the pulley width i show
This is propper oem COG belt size
the new pulley nut I get from DENSo too
rocks !
I got mine from member @Fourrunner. Great setup and absolutely transformed my truck. Night and day difference on starting power. Alleviated a lot of my little electrical issues. Great guy. He made mine custom to include some cable to tie in an extra fuse panel in my setup.
View attachment 2260118
Link for the cables is here:
FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets
The kit costs $155.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available. The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. This kit fits FJ60's and FJ62's. See below for additional kits (FJ40, FJ80 and FZJ80) Kit includes: Battery positive to starter cable (with protective...
I noticed too that @ToyotaMatt started offering a set as well on his site I think if you want a factory setup. I would agree with the others after seeing pictures of your setup, a set of battery cables would prolly hook you up. Couldn't hurt. HTH.
Yes, that’s the vendor. Now I have the hydraulic crimp tool to make my own.
I also just recently added a Blue Sea bus as well.
I think I saw that pic on IG. Do you have enough room to access the jacks on the left side of the bus?
Gretsch
SILVER Star
Its a little tight but yes I have room. I most likely will never use up the terminals on the right side anyway. 6 per side and I have only used two. I might add 12V lead for my 7-way trailer connector but other than that I won't need anything else for this particular truck. My placement gets the box up higher than the fender which seemed prudent to me to help avoid chance encounters with water.
not yet
it will be within the hour , TOYOTA was dragging there feet on this Saturday of Quarantine !
CHOP
CHOP
you You Dealer parts People , there Vintage Toyota's in need of these Nuts !
22590FJ62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #32
So I'm having starting issues again...as noted previously, I took the Cruiser into NTB (National Tire & Battery) on Friday morning. My brother had owned this Cruiser briefly and got the alternator, battery and tires installed there, so being that they're under warranty with NTB I took it to them to check it all out. Turns out that the alternator is fine (not sure if it's as awesome and/or OEM quality like some of y'alls) and it turns out the battery is fine.
It didn't start last night. I did nothing. I started it okay this morning. It wouldn't start at lunch, got it jumped and it was fine. It wouldn't start when I got off work, got it jumped and it was fine. When I got home, I did a small experiment. I killed the engine. I started it back up fine. I killed it again. I turned the kill switch to the off position. I turned it to the on position. I tried to start the Cruiser again and nothing...so my hypothesis is that whatever it is, it has something to do with wiring. Either there's something connected to the kill switch that's bad, or the cables to the battery are bad, or the kill switch is bad, or the starter is bad or something. I've never owned an older vehicle so I'm not sure what to look for...and so I depend on y'all!! I would in essence love to change out every damn wire that's in that vehicle but I'm not sure where to start and I don't want to pay someone an ungodly amount of labor hours to only diagnose and fix 1 or 2 things. I do know that the vehicle was originally purchased in Pennsylvania, so I'm sure there were salty roads in its past. Where do I start? What can I do at home myself and what do I need a mechanic to do?
Guys, y'all are absolutely amazing. I would not be able to do this without you. I love my Cruiser but I'm a little frustrated with her right now. Thanks!!
It didn't start last night. I did nothing. I started it okay this morning. It wouldn't start at lunch, got it jumped and it was fine. It wouldn't start when I got off work, got it jumped and it was fine. When I got home, I did a small experiment. I killed the engine. I started it back up fine. I killed it again. I turned the kill switch to the off position. I turned it to the on position. I tried to start the Cruiser again and nothing...so my hypothesis is that whatever it is, it has something to do with wiring. Either there's something connected to the kill switch that's bad, or the cables to the battery are bad, or the kill switch is bad, or the starter is bad or something. I've never owned an older vehicle so I'm not sure what to look for...and so I depend on y'all!! I would in essence love to change out every damn wire that's in that vehicle but I'm not sure where to start and I don't want to pay someone an ungodly amount of labor hours to only diagnose and fix 1 or 2 things. I do know that the vehicle was originally purchased in Pennsylvania, so I'm sure there were salty roads in its past. Where do I start? What can I do at home myself and what do I need a mechanic to do?
Guys, y'all are absolutely amazing. I would not be able to do this without you. I love my Cruiser but I'm a little frustrated with her right now. Thanks!!
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,279
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Getting a jump start is not actually doing anything, so quit wasting your time with that. You said it yourself, your battery is fine. You have a bad connection.
Do your dash and headLIghts work consistently, and your issue is just with the starter not cranking, or do you get no power at all?
Get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Be resourceful.
Do your dash and headLIghts work consistently, and your issue is just with the starter not cranking, or do you get no power at all?
Get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Be resourceful.
It's not uncommon for the Electrical switch behind the Ignition Key Switch to wear out and be confused with Starter or other electrical issues.
If that switch is original, there's prolly a million cycles on it and the contacts wear. The contact is what directs voltage to the Starter solenoid.
I've found this switch to be the cause when there's intermittent no-start and everything else checks good.
If that switch is original, there's prolly a million cycles on it and the contacts wear. The contact is what directs voltage to the Starter solenoid.
I've found this switch to be the cause when there's intermittent no-start and everything else checks good.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
Have these been addressed on your truck as @cruisermatt suggested? Your issue should be either the battery cables, the lock switch, the starter, or internal wiring. You gotta find out which. Since you suspect the PO put some sort of anti-theft switch in here, you could firstly try and see if you get voltage on the starter solenoid trigger wire. Easiest way IMO would be to get a remote starter switch and hook it up to the starter solenoid. This would bypass the lock switch which as @Spike Strip mentions can go bad after so many years in service and test the solenoid, battery cables, and starters ability to turn the truck over. You might wait until it won't start with the key and try this right away. If it works then you can put a multi-meter on the trigger wire and trace back why its not getting voltage. Prolly something to do with that crazy switch thing. Could be as simple as the trigger wire being corroded or not on the solenoid terminal properly. Need to get a multi-meter on there to test it.
Having said all that, I would again suggest just replacing the battery cables now. Won't hurt. @ToyotaMatt can hook you up here. HTH.
22590FJ62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #36
All lights work consistently, and I get the ding coming on indicating I have power. Every time it won't start, the battery indicator is sitting a little past 12, but there is no battery light on...just the check engine light.
I really don't wanna mess anything up but I do want to fix all of this so that I can confidently take my FJ62 camping, off-roading and hunting without worrying about getting stuck in the middle of the woods. I also want the vehicle to be prepared for the winch I'm about to get 4WheelParts to install into an ARB bumper AND I'll eventually do onboard air with an ARB locker in the back to start (maybe eventually in the front too). This is a HIGHLY capable vehicle already but I want it to be the "Beast" my dad has dubbed it. I know she has so much potential but it's imperative that I get all current electrical issues addressed and maybe even get some preventative measures into place.
22590FJ62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
Yeah, sorry I forgot to address this! NTB wasn't very helpful but they did replace my positive (red) terminal. It was shot. I think that changing the cables would be a wonderful move...should I go with some snazzy marine grade ones like suggested and/or is that what @ToyotaMatt has to offer?
Both the NOS Alternator Pulleys Them selves
and
The stand alone New Updated Pulley Flange style Hex Retainer Nut Have been
added to the store and have good stock on both at the moment ........
NOTE : i was able to Source made in JAPAN OEM TOYOTA Pulley nuts ............
anything else would simply be uncivilized ............
NOS OEM TOYOTA Land Cruiser NipponDenso Alternator Pulleys, Proper & Correct WIDE COGGED belt width, Factory Powder Coated 2F FJ60 FJ40 part # 27411-60032 FITS 1969-1987 Comes with FREE Pulley NUT OEM Toyota genuine part - VintageTEqParts.com
NOTE: This Listing Is for 1 Pulley ONLY , and a FREE Pulley NUT Too ! NOS OEM TOYOTA Land...
vintageteqparts.com
OEM TOYOTA Land Cruiser NipponDenso Alternator Pulley NUT , Silver Zinc Plated F1.5 , 2F FJ60 FJ40 part # 90099- FITS 1969-1987 - VintageTEqParts.com
Note : this listing is for 1 NUT only , OEM TOYOTA Land Cruiser NipponDenso Alternator Pulley NUT ( ONLY...
vintageteqparts.com
Snazzy ANCOR Marine Tinned Solid Copper Super Fine Strand Cable,
Simply meshes in Harmony with 2005 TOYOTA Land Cruiser Genuine OEM
Battery Cable Related Direct Contact Parts like none other .
To Faithfully Reproduce The 8/80 - 1987 FJ60 OEM original Battery Cables
Design , Routing and General Period correct appearance in every way
possible Using Modern , Updated , and Upgraded Late Model Land Cruiser
Parts in a way the will Provide and Serve the 60 Series owner / operators
as intended and expected .......
Last edited:
22590FJ62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #40
I don't have a 2005 TLC though! I have a 1990 FJ62. Would it still work?Snazzy ANCOR Marine Tinned Solid Copper Super Fine Strand Cable,
Simply meshes in Harmony with 2005 TOYOTA Land Cruiser Genuine OEM
Battery Cable Related Direct Contact Parts like none other .................
