NC LX becomes NC LC

[NC LX]

Moving all the good components onto the new body shell and frame?

Yeah, Im going to strip the frame of the blue one. Clean up the frame ;paint, Replace the rear c-channel, spring bushings and install a 2" Dobsions I had for the tan one.

I'll use the blue body with the tan front clip, and tan driveline and axles. Reassembling from the frame up addressing anything that comes up along the way, upgrading as needed.

Whats everyones opinion on using POR-15. The blue frame has surface rust and the typical rot in the rear c channel. Im not in the rust belt and it rarely snows here . Im leaning towards wire wheeling the frame, degrease, acid etch, and coating with POR.

 

[roadstr6]

POR is great for the areas that you can reach with a brush. I would skip the acid etch. Introducing acid to your frame seems counterproductive and it's not really needed for POR to stick. A rusty surface that has been wire wheeled and degreased provides the perfect "tooth" for POR to hang onto. I would avoid spraying it. It's bad for you. Pull the truck out in the grass when you do brush it on. POR drips will ruin your garage floor (and your clothes and stain your skin for two weeks). For the areas that you can't get to with a brush (like the inside of the frame rails) clean them out with brushes, air gun, vacuum cleaner and coat them with Wool Wax or Fluid Film and they'll last forever. I use spray cans of Fluid Film and the little four-way tube nozzle to get inside the frame rails. Works great. Smells kinda weird for a few days.

 

[mtweller]

I've used POR-15 several times over the years and am fine with it. However, when I pulled my tub and cleaned up my frame, I opted for rust bullet, primer then black shell:

Holding strong after 7 years, albeit not a ton of UV exposure. I loved the way it laid down with a HVLP gun and the adhesion has been really really good. I did a light wire wheel for prep.

Ramon

 

[GLTHFJ60]

POR is good. New product I'm liking a lot is Steel-It paint, that would also work, and bonus points, you can weld through it if you decide to install sliders or anything else down the line.

Love the new plan btw.

 

[NC LX]

Busy week. Stripped the body. Moved the frame out. Spent most of the week using an hour here and there working on removing the rear 60 c channel. Hats off to anyone that has done it with the body on.

 

[NC LX]

Still chugging along. Completed removing rear c channel. What an absolute pain. From the other comparable frames Ive seen this one is in really good condition. The story I got is it was wrecked in St Louis the late 90's sat waiting and never repaired. From the news paper found inside from 1997, Id say the story is legit.

2 coats of POR15 with the frame upside down, then flipping the frame and 2 more coats on the top side. For a visual victory I went ahead and hung the new springs and mounted the tan core support.

I moved the blue body out and backed the tan 60 in for the last time in its old foundation. Ive begun disassembly on the front clip in preparation to move everything over. Considering the tan roofs condition Im amazed at the condition for the front clip. I found one small dime rust spot on the drivers fender and then a small spot on the tan core support. Simple fixes for both that ill document when the time comes.

Friday I have some help coming over to move the 2F over to the new frame. This week is prepping and disconnecting. Things seems be progressing.

 

[NC LX]

Busy few days. Over the weekend I moved the drive train (engine, trans, t-cas, f/r axles) over from the 86 frame to the 83. Axles were degreased, etched, and coated in por 15.

Baby brother came over Friday night and helped me pull the drive line from the 86. With some help from some additional mischief in a pink striped dress, things progressed forward.

Nothing goes as smooth as planned, Being this the first 60 Ive been this in depth with Two things i've realized .

1. The power steering gear box was changed around 84-85. I was able to locate the OE gear box. Big thanks to @RocketCityCrzrs for helping me locate the 83 steering box and loaning out a spare engine hoist to assist.
2. The trans crossmember is different . I'm looking at a few different ideas now on how to keep the OE look.

The donor body was moved out and the new set up was moved in to the main house garage. All hardware has been sent off for chromate.

A small parts list has been ordered but not limited to.....

1.Starter
2.Clutch kit
3. All rubber brake lines
4. Clutch master cylinder
5. Master cylinder
6. AC Compressor
7. WP
8. PS Pressure hose
9. TRE'S
10. F/R Crank Shaft Seals
11. A/C evap core
12.A/C expansion valve
13. A/C drier
14. Transmission mount
15. Alternator

 

[Green Hell Mustang]

So, tell us about the white beemer?

 

[roadstr6]

Points to ponder...It might be worthwhile to use the 85+ steering box if you have one available. I know the bolt pattern is different and re-drilling and plating the frame is a pain, but now's the time to do that upgrade while you have space to do the work. The '85+ box is stronger and it has the same pattern as the 80 series box. It is upgradeable as well to a stronger sector shaft. As you probably figured out by now, finding an 84 and older box is not easy. Nobody rebuilds them that I know of. They are kind-of a pariah. The cross member is different from '84 down and '85-up due to '85-up using a longer driveline. It's essentially the same setup with a spacer between the trans and transfer case. Driveshaft lengths are different too as a result of the longer driveline of the 85+. If you have the ability to use the later trans and cross member, it is worth the effort to do mod the frame to accommodate it. If you ever decide to go H55, it will bolt right in using the later stuff. Not so with the '84 and down.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The 85+ 60 box is stronger than the early 60 box? AFAIK they're the same, except for the bolt pattern.

The fj80 box is more powerful, but same strength, as a 60 box. I'm not aware of a sector shaft upgrade for the 60 boxes, but the 80 boxes can be upgraded to the 105 sector shaft.

 

[RocketCityCrzrs]

Honestly I take a bit of an opposite view on the gearbox. Where all of the points are 1000% right, where is the advantage of dilling and putting a stronger gearbox on the truck for the use case of minor lift and overlanding use. Redhead rebuilds the 84+ boxes and that box is plenty strong for the use case. I just don't see the advantage of the extra work for a gain that won't be seen for the trucks lot in life.

 

[NC LX]

So, tell us about the white beemer?

It’s my brothers. He’s a single 30 something engineer here in Huntsville without kids and a nice income. I honestly don’t know much except I can confirm it won’t fit 3 cars seats in the rear.

 

[NC LX]

Yeah. When looking at using the 83 box, vs upgrading to the late60/80 series box.The amount of labor involved to to make the newer box work doesn’t seem worth the benefit when I look at what my needs and expectations are. This definitely won’t be a Moonshine. I just wanna get in it a putt around town, camping, light wheeling, Uwarrie/service roads, and catch up with everyone on the HC trips.

 

[roadstr6]

I was under the impression that RedHead just rebuilt the later boxes and not '84 down. Perhaps I misspoke when I said that the later 60 boxes were stronger. I thought they were. Regardless, going to the late box bolt pattern will allow for more parts availability and potential upgrades in the future. My thought was that while you are dealing with a completely bare frame with plenty of working space, there is no better time to make the change-over. That being said, my '84 60 still has the old style box in it. It does kind-of steer. That's about the only good thing I can say about it.

 

[roadstr6]

I was under the impression that RedHead just rebuilt the later boxes and not '84 down. Perhaps I misspoke when I said that the later 60 boxes were stronger. I thought they were. Regardless, going to the late box bolt pattern will allow for more parts availability and potential upgrades in the future. My thought was that while you are dealing with a completely bare frame with plenty of working space, there is no better time to make the change-over. That being said, my '84 60 still has the old style box in it. It does kind-of steer. That's about the only good thing I can say about it.

Just wanted to post a follow up. I called RedHead. They said that they can rebuild the early boxes for $466. They don't have cores for the early ones, so you have to send yours in and wait. Still good to know that somebody will rebuild them.

 

[NC LX]

Just wanted to post a follow up. I called RedHead. They said that they can rebuild the early boxes for $466. They don't have cores for the early ones, so you have to send yours in and wait. Still good to know that somebody will rebuild them.

Thanks. Good info to know it’s available. I may go the 80 box route but with such a long list to get everything reassembled this summer, it’s easy to use the simple solution.

I like your idea about the option to upgrade to an h55 in the future. I’m looking at cutting the brackets off the 86 frame and welding them to the 83. Right now Solving that has my attention.

 

[IcutYourCruiser]

Thanks. Good info to know it’s available. I may go the 80 box route but with such a long list to get everything reassembled this summer, it’s easy to use the simple solution.

I like your idea about the option to upgrade to an h55 in the future. I’m looking at cutting the brackets off the 86 frame and welding them to the 83. Right now Solving that has my attention.

I’ve done h55 swaps in 60s, and 62s. If you have the donor frame from a late 60 to cut the brackets off and weld them on, DO IT!! Use all the stock late model 60 parts you can. It’s well worth it.

 

[FJ Noob]

Thanks. Good info to know it’s available. I may go the 80 box route but with such a long list to get everything reassembled this summer, it’s easy to use the simple solution.

I like your idea about the option to upgrade to an h55 in the future. I’m looking at cutting the brackets off the 86 frame and welding them to the 83. Right now Solving that has my attention.

If you decide to switch to the later model version, I've got a driveshaft off a late '85 you can have. Just let me know by late July before we pack up and hit the road for an undetermined amount of time.

 

[NC LX]

I’ve done h55 swaps in 60s, and 62s. If you have the donor frame from a late 60 to cut the brackets off and weld them on, DO IT!! Use all the stock late model 60 parts you can. It’s well worth it.

My plan is to carefully cut the brackets off the 86, bolt the brackets to the crossmember and the crossmember to the trans. Use Floor jack to put crossmember up into place and tack everything into its final position. Seems simple.

I started carefully cutting the tan body away yesterday into larger sections that could be resold. Should have the brackets accessible from the topside today.

 

[NC LX]

If you decide to switch to the later model version, I've got a driveshaft off a late '85 you can have. Just let me know by late July before we pack up and hit the road for an undetermined amount of time.

Thanks. I’m using a complete 86 driveline so the drive shaft should work.