- Thread starter
- #421
Still working on the console but I like where its headed. I’ve used it for the past week and it feels good. Currently a hybrid between the 100 and the 60 with room under the 60 console for accessories.
NC LX becomes NC LC
- Thread starter NC LX
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- Thread starter
- #422
2kw Diesel heater fit nicely in the 60 qp. After sitting on it for the better part of the year I’ve finally got the install wrapped up. With the wireless remote I’ve been warming up the 60 in the morning from the inside the house. I’ve got the intake routed up the d pillar to pull air through the inside vent. Exhaust dumps out directly below.
@orikawa panels finish up the install nicely and give a nice place to mount the controller. My only suggestion would be the Hardware. The m4 screws really need to be about 10mm longer. I had to really push the panel sung to get it to grab the inserts, a few wouldn’t grab and I had to purchase some longer M4 screws.
@orikawa panels finish up the install nicely and give a nice place to mount the controller. My only suggestion would be the Hardware. The m4 screws really need to be about 10mm longer. I had to really push the panel sung to get it to grab the inserts, a few wouldn’t grab and I had to purchase some longer M4 screws.
Where’s the tank? What unit are you using?
This is the way. Having an auxiliary heater installed in the truck is a game changer. I’ll get the quarter panel mounted heater in my 80 going again some day. Too many other vehicles to work on and house projects that take priority right now though. I’m also curious about the fuel tank and how you fill it.
Pretty sure the dent in my quarter is what killed my first heater. Nothing will survive in the quarter panel of moonshine. I’m surprised the fuel filler still works. You could still make something work though
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- Thread starter
- #427
Right now it on the swing out. Easy to fill and keep and eye on levels. Not sure it’s permanent but it works well.
- Thread starter
- #428
GSMTR prep for the 40 plus crowd. Working A/C. Moved the drier out side the engine bay and was able to eliminate one fitting.
- Thread starter
- #429
In typical fashion, I sat on parts for months and decided to instead of taking advantage of months ahead to install them, l installed them days before I leave to go to GSMTR.
80 master cylinder, 5th gen 4Runner calipers, pads, rotors and ifs hubs along with new inner/outer bearings. Eliminated the wheel spacers and added a few inches to match the rear 80 axle.
frontrangeoffroadfab.com
Buttoned it up and hit the road to GMSTR. Checked in a Moonshine Motel for a bit. Not much else to report. Since the swap, Both pedals feel good now and very responsive.
80 master cylinder, 5th gen 4Runner calipers, pads, rotors and ifs hubs along with new inner/outer bearings. Eliminated the wheel spacers and added a few inches to match the rear 80 axle.
Big Brake Brackets and turned Hubs
Boost your braking power with Front Range Off-Road Fabrication's Big Brake Brackets and Turned Hubs. Get ready for unparalleled stopping power.
Buttoned it up and hit the road to GMSTR. Checked in a Moonshine Motel for a bit. Not much else to report. Since the swap, Both pedals feel good now and very responsive.
- Thread starter
- #430
Not much to report. Took Jack to the spot back in August. Uneventful trip but eventful there. RIP in Eric.
Last week new b pillar mounts from Rust Farmers arrived. Mine were thin and brittle and breaking apart. 10/10. Would buy again.
Last week new b pillar mounts from Rust Farmers arrived. Mine were thin and brittle and breaking apart. 10/10. Would buy again.
- Thread starter
- #431
And so it begins….Jack 3.0
The front suspension feels absolutely dialed in. After a bit of fine-tuning, it’s performing exactly how I want — precise, stable, and predictable. Other than repositioning the shock mounts early on, I really haven’t had to touch it again.
The rear, on the other hand, has been a different story. No matter what I’ve tried, it’s never quite felt “right.” It’s always been either too harsh or too soft, and I’ve chased that balance through just about every setup possible — different shocks, rebuilt 63s, added leafs, removed leafs, you name it.
The biggest improvements came when I added the Anti-Rock sway bar and airbags. That combination completely changed how the rear behaved, but it still isn’t perfect. So the plan now is to go all in — a triangulated 4-link with airbags and the Anti-Rock. It’s the next evolution in getting the ride, control, and articulation exactly where I want them.
All the joints are 2.63-inch units for maximum strength and articulation.
The rear axle will use a Ballistic Fabrication 80-series truss, with the upper link mounts set at 22.5°. The remaining brackets are sourced from Barnes, including 10° lower axle-side brackets for proper geometry and clearance.
At the frame side, the lower link brackets are set at 7°, and the uppers are angled at 25° to achieve the desired triangulation and instant-center positioning.
For added durability, I’m plating the frame with 3/16-inch steel. A local fab shop bent the 3/16 plate to match the contour of the frame rails perfectly, ensuring a clean fit and a solid foundation for the suspension mounts.
The front suspension feels absolutely dialed in. After a bit of fine-tuning, it’s performing exactly how I want — precise, stable, and predictable. Other than repositioning the shock mounts early on, I really haven’t had to touch it again.
The rear, on the other hand, has been a different story. No matter what I’ve tried, it’s never quite felt “right.” It’s always been either too harsh or too soft, and I’ve chased that balance through just about every setup possible — different shocks, rebuilt 63s, added leafs, removed leafs, you name it.
The biggest improvements came when I added the Anti-Rock sway bar and airbags. That combination completely changed how the rear behaved, but it still isn’t perfect. So the plan now is to go all in — a triangulated 4-link with airbags and the Anti-Rock. It’s the next evolution in getting the ride, control, and articulation exactly where I want them.
All the joints are 2.63-inch units for maximum strength and articulation.
The rear axle will use a Ballistic Fabrication 80-series truss, with the upper link mounts set at 22.5°. The remaining brackets are sourced from Barnes, including 10° lower axle-side brackets for proper geometry and clearance.
At the frame side, the lower link brackets are set at 7°, and the uppers are angled at 25° to achieve the desired triangulation and instant-center positioning.
For added durability, I’m plating the frame with 3/16-inch steel. A local fab shop bent the 3/16 plate to match the contour of the frame rails perfectly, ensuring a clean fit and a solid foundation for the suspension mounts.
Where did you find a download for the v3 link calculator? All I’ve found is the newer version that over complicates everything.
- Thread starter
- #433
I think it’s just an excel file. Should be able to share it with you easily.
- Thread starter
- #434
Last Week’s Progress:
I stripped and prepped the rear axle, then tacked in the truss. I also finished welding the frame brackets on the workbench and mocked them into position on the frame. The lower control arms measured out perfectly, 6° horizontal and 5.6° vertical, landing right about 36” in length.
The lower control arms were built as straight links without issue. However, during suspension cycling, the upper arms made near contact with the Antirock sway bar. To resolve the interference, I did bend in the upper arms to achieve the necessary clearance while maintaining geometry.
I hope in the next couple of days, I have the links finished and installed. It would be nice to have exhaust work done by the weekend.
I stripped and prepped the rear axle, then tacked in the truss. I also finished welding the frame brackets on the workbench and mocked them into position on the frame. The lower control arms measured out perfectly, 6° horizontal and 5.6° vertical, landing right about 36” in length.
The lower control arms were built as straight links without issue. However, during suspension cycling, the upper arms made near contact with the Antirock sway bar. To resolve the interference, I did bend in the upper arms to achieve the necessary clearance while maintaining geometry.
I hope in the next couple of days, I have the links finished and installed. It would be nice to have exhaust work done by the weekend.
- Thread starter
- #435
A little bit of time this afternoon was a success. Still a ways to go but Jack is now Linked, Locked and LS powered. Running the numbers my Anti Squat is right at 90%
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Well? How does it drive?!
- Thread starter
- #438
Haven’t driven it yet but it’s on it on weight. I’ve cycled the suspension and measured for shocks. When aired down my clearances came out perfect.
Lower Arm
Gas tank and top of truss.
Rear differential and gas tank.
The upper arms just barely kiss the anti rock. I think If I fab the upper bag mount to space away from the frame it would solve the issue.
I’m going to love being able to air down when camping leveling the truck, and also making it easier getting in after a late night brown water meeting.
Lower Arm
Gas tank and top of truss.
Rear differential and gas tank.
The upper arms just barely kiss the anti rock. I think If I fab the upper bag mount to space away from the frame it would solve the issue.
I’m going to love being able to air down when camping leveling the truck, and also making it easier getting in after a late night brown water meeting.
- Thread starter
- #440
This week I tackled a big step on the rear suspension. I rebuilt the 7” coil mounts. The idea here is flexibility — if the airbags don’t end up performing the way I want, I’ll be able to swap over to coils without reworking the whole setup. I ended up cutting into the axle truss and integrating the 7” mounts directly into it, so everything ties together clean and strong. And if I ever decide to go full coilovers down the road, the buckets can be cut off and the truss will still be 100% usable. Future-proofing for the win.
Shocks should land by the weekend, so while I wait I’ve been knocking out welding in short daily sessions — hitting the small sections that are easy to reach without tearing everything apart again. Once the shocks are mounted and I’ve cycled the suspension to confirm clearances and travel, I’ll pull the rear axle for final welding and paint. It’s starting to feel like progress is really stacking up now.
Shocks should land by the weekend, so while I wait I’ve been knocking out welding in short daily sessions — hitting the small sections that are easy to reach without tearing everything apart again. Once the shocks are mounted and I’ve cycled the suspension to confirm clearances and travel, I’ll pull the rear axle for final welding and paint. It’s starting to feel like progress is really stacking up now.