Na$ty a$$ oil leak (1 Viewer)

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Rick,

I was wondering that as well. I'm not too sure that it is as the heavier weights are OZ spec. But, I sure as heck could be wrong.

I'll be able to tell more when I get it apart. It looks as though it may sit for a week before I can start on it.
 
Dan,
How high does the oil sit in the timing cover when running and off?
Is it full of oil or does it run down the chain and cover?
I there a small drain for the oil to run out the bottom in to the pan or is it a big drain hole?
 
Dan,

Sorry to hear of the troubles. Before you start disassembly you should check out the PCV system, make sure it is clear and unclogged, and that the pcv valve working as it should. You should also check compression and verify that there is no excessive blowby. The objective is to ascertain that the leak was not instigated by excessive crankcase pressure.

Rich
 
The PCV system appears to function properly. I removed the valve from the grommet at idle and felt for pressure in the crank case and found none. In addition, the ammount of oil running out while the engine is running is not affected by weather the valve is in or out. I suppose there could be blow-by. The engine does run smoothly and has over 18 inches of manifold vacuum at idle while it bleeds to death :rolleyes:

It is also possible that the PCV valve could not be holding pressure. I did not see any loss of boost however.
 
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=8517;start=msg72522#msg72522 date=1070830764]
I doubt that they R & R'd the timing cover it's self for only 300 bucks. I can believe a crank seal would cost that. I gotta go a whole bunch deeper than that. :'(
[/quote]

Hmmm..... you may be right, I know he did the main and a "cover gasket". I was thinking it was the timing chain cover, but looking at the manual it looks like there is another little 'cover' in there. Oil pump cover maybe? Anyway, you would have to look at the Part # I gave to be sure.

You're right though.... Looks like you have to pull the head and drop the pan....ewww...

I really feel for you now!
 
sorry to hear about that Dan, need to sell acouple superchargers now to help defer the cost.

Seems like whenever I get something somewhat fun the same thing happens- something breaks. Bought a yakima rack a week ago, now I have a hole in my radiator. Blame Slee, least the timing was right so you got the bumper.

Good luck
 
"Blame Slee, least the timing was right so you got the bumper."

Yup, thats it.

And boy does it ever look good floating on top of that big old puddle of oil............. :'( :'( :'( :whoops:


Crap, now I can't even afford a cheap beer to cry into :'( :beer:
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles Dan! Guess the dogs won't get fed for awhile the way it's sounding.
 
I'll give you $100 for your slee rear bumper/tire carrier, just to help you finance your engine repair :D
 
[quote author=firetruck41 link=board=2;threadid=8517;start=msg72870#msg72870 date=1070904921]
I'll give you $100 for your slee rear bumper/tire carrier, just to help you finance your engine repair :D
[/quote]

I'm willing to go higher than that.

Good luck Dan... :'(
 
Well,

Robbie has most likely identified the source. He was kind enough to examine a bare block that was available.

There is an oil galley that feeds the oil cooler. That galley is cross-drilled from the front face of the block and then plugged with a cup-type freeze plug of about 16mm. That plug is covered by, but not sealed by, the timing cover.
What has most likely happened is this plug has come loose and was stopped from coming completely out by the timing cover. Oil is then peing pushed past the loose plug and then flowing down the small gap between the front face of the block and the timing cover and then exiting at the notch at the bottom.
The timing cover must be removed as well as both oil pans. The engine will have to be let loose of the front mounts and jacked up a bit to allow removall of the upper oil pan.
Robbie indicated that it is possible to remove the timing cover without removing the head using this approach.

My strategy at this point is to go up from below and see if I can do it without damage to the head gasket. If I can, GREAT. If not, I still need to get the bottom end apart anyway.

Oh, the plug in question is NOT serviced by Toyota. Ya gotta buy a block to get it from them :flipoff2:

So don't tell anyone but I'm gonna find something aftermarket.......... :whoops:


D-
 
I think we should create a fix C-Dan's car fund - what do you guys say ? He has saved us all so much time and money after all. $10-$20/each x a couple of hundred members = Dan's fixed car Anyone know how to start a fund through Paypal or ??

Matt
 
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=8517;start=msg72939#msg72939 date=1070915235]

... the plug in question is NOT serviced by Toyota. Ya gotta buy a block to get it from them :flipoff2:

So don't tell anyone but I'm gonna find something aftermarket.......... :whoops: ...

[/quote]

You might consider checking out what loctite has to offer. I'll betcha they have a product that would allow you to reuse the existing plug and have it be a permanent repair. Their tech support will talk to you directly to provide advise.

Rich
 
Rich,

I plan to use some form of Loctite. I dont know if I want to leave the original POS in there after it :flipoff2: 'd me.... :whoops:

As far as why it jumped, I have no idea. I would imagine an oil pressure spike could do it if it were ready to go. I think it just plain yaked. I have been running heavier (15w-40) oil for about 7 months but I doubt that would have an effect on a sound plug.

The old boy just probably had enuf :-\
 
I'm in! I can @ least help with the :beer: fund!! :D

Brad,
Sounds good to me, I'll throw some in for some good :beer:
 

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