Na$ty a$$ oil leak (1 Viewer)

[cruiserdan]

88440-26090

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

What a great read!
I stumbled onto this thread looking for information about pulling the timing chain cover while my head is off for a head gasket and valve job.

With the head off, I'd like to get at the timing chain cover lower saddle to upper pan tiny oil leak as well as preventative maintenance of the o-rings and seals inside the cover.

I'm relieved to see that it's preferable to remove both oil pans, but with the studs on the timing chain cover removed, it looks possible to just remove and replace the timing chain cover with new gasket material.

@cruiserdan what a crazy mechanical issue. You had many moons ago.

 

[cruiserdan]

Hard to believe it's been almost 19 years. The repair has held so far......time will tell.

 

[woodsman 44]

Damn this is an old thread, back when Dan had gray hair and was bald.

This post was in 2009..So I wonder what The Dan looks like now In 2022? lol

 

[Kernal]

Billygoat said: I'm relieved to see that it's preferable to remove both oil pans, but with the studs on the timing chain cover removed, it looks possible to just remove and replace the timing chain cover with new gasket material.

Key words above "with the studs removed", the two lower studs facing downward cannot be removed without removing the upper oil pan, IME.

It was referred to earlier in the thread that the pans have to be removed to pull the timing chain cover but for grins I wanted to see if it was possible to remove a 1FZFE timing cover from a FZJ80 engine with only the head removed. I had already pulled the head and found the block to be cracked so at this point I was just experimenting with my new boat anchor.

So I removed all the forward facing bolts and studs but left the upper oil pan in place just to see if it was possible: it was not.

The two studs that face downward at the bottom front of the timing chain cover and go through the top front of the upper pan prevent the cover from coming forward (nuts removed). There's also not enough exposed stud length showing below the lip of the upper pan to get a good hold onto those studs to remove them with the pan in place. I forget if I tried to slot the exposed ends of those two downward facing studs to see if they could be unscrewed (or maybe there wasn't room to do that with the engine in place on jack stands working on my back??). IDK

FWIW/IME

 

[cruiserdan]

This post was in 2009..So I wonder what The Dan looks like now In 2022? lol

I can safely tell you that the truck has aged better than I have. Getting ready for Cruise Moab 2022.

 

[SNLC]

You can pull the studs for the upper pan to get the case off but really it is best to simply pull it all and reseal. It is FIPG, its the goods but 25-30yrs is a lot to ask of any silicone.

You can also get the upper pan out without lifting the engine but it is a real pita, I think it is better to just grab the engine, loosen the engine mounts and lift it an inch or two. Makes the job a lot easier.

Cheers

 

[cruiserdan]

The rear pan arch on practically every factory-assembled 1FZ leaks. Mine was leaking 19 and a half years ago when I did the job. I just took this photo.

 

[SNLC]

The rear pan arch on practically every factory-assembled 1FZ leaks. Mine was leaking 19 and a half years ago when I did the job. I just took this photo. View attachment 2973029

As you know, that is real solid years wise for FIPG. A testament to the mighty FIPG.

Cheers

 

[Bludozer]

I can safely tell you that the truck has aged better than I have. Getting ready for Cruise Moab 2022.View attachment 2973013

Nice camper!

 

[cruiserdan]

Nice camper!

2002 Kimberley Kakadu. One of roughly 12 imported in 2002. At one time Romer had it's litter mate that was 4 units away from mine.

 

[Bludozer]

2002 Kimberley Kakadu. One of roughly 12 imported in 2002. At one time Romer had it's litter mate that was 4 units away from mine.

Some of the most well made campers out there.

 

[cruiserdan]

Some of the most well made campers out there.

I just replaced the original Australian-made Goodyear Wranglers a couple weeks ago. They still looked good but they were starting to scare me

 

[96eighty]

The Emerald Phoenix has risen from the ashes

After 27 hours of ball-busting toil I fired my beast at ten minutes past five pm today.

The oil is NO LEAKY . I have a small coolant leak at the water by-pass pipe that I half expected and that is an easy fix.

Stuff used:

One each, 42 cent 5/8 oversize shallow cup freeze plug.
One each, Permatex sleeve retainer (green)
Two each, Toyota FIPG sealer.
Two each, antifreeze.
Two each, gallons distilled water.
Eight each, quarts motor oil.
One each, oil filter.
Three each, timing cover O rings.
One each, timing chain slipper.
One each, timing chain tensioner.
One each, timing chain tensioner gasket.
One each, front cranksahaft seal.
One each, water pump & gasket.
One each, Alternator belt idler pulley.
One each, set of drive belts.
One each, water bypass gasket.
One each, water housing gasket.
One each, dip stick tube O ring.
Three each, radiator hoses.
One each, coolant bypass hose.
Six each, radiator hose clamps.
One each, supercharger crossover gasket.
Six each, sparkplugs.
One each, valve cover gasket.
Three each. PAIR injection tube gaskets.
Three each, bypass pipe o rings.
One each, Sylglide.
Five each, brake parts cleaner aerosol cans.
One each, Locktite blue thread locker.
Three each, razor blades.
One each, PS pump O ring.
One each, oil drain plug gasket.
Twelve pair each, nitrile gloves.
Three each, large bandaids
One each, blue sweatshirt. :whoops:

A VERY SPECIAL THANKS to my dear friend and fellow Garand collector Todd, who offered me a lift in his garage and a bunch of special tools and a very valuable hand in times of need.


I HOPE that nobody else EVER needs to do his job, It was a screaming Beach.....
D-

Hey @cruiserdan

After reading through old maintenance papers from the PO I decided to tackle the "timing cover leak" the PO didn't ok the shop to do. I had no idea if it was leaking or not but with so much oil & dirt caked on the 80 and after reading this thread I felt, inspired to attempt this job myself.

Its my first time doing a job like this but I'm learning as I go and am hoping you could maybe give me some pointers on a few things:

Cleaning:
-How did you clean the mating surfaces of the block and upper oil pan?
-Did you clean the HG/Timing Cover mating surface?
-Do you have any tips on cleaning the block

Reseal:
-Did you apply FIPG on the HG/Timing Cover mating surface as well?
-Tips on sealing rear pan arch, yours looks leak free!


Also was your coolant outlet/inlet surface rusted as well?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[cruiserdan]

I'm afraid you are not going to like my answer.
This was almost 19 years ago and I don't remember the gory details.

 

[96eighty]

I'm afraid you are not going to like my answer.
This was almost 19 years ago and I don't remember the gory details.

Awww bummer.